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ADVENTURES 



COLUMBIA RIVER, 



INCLUDING 



THE NARRATIVE OF A RESIDENCE 

OF SIX YEARS ON THE WESTERN SIDE OF 

THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, 

AMONG 

VARIOUS TRIBES OF INDIANS 

HITHERTO UNKNOWN: 

TOGETHER WITH 

A JOURNEY ACROSS THE AMERICAN CONTINENT. 
BY ROSS COX. 



NEW-YORK : 

PRINTED AND PUBLISHED BY J. & J. HARPER, 82 CLIFF-STREtT. 

AND SOLD BY THE PRINCIPAL BOOKSELLEK3 THROUGHOUT THE UNITED STATES. 



1832 



0/ 



L 



H 



PREFACE. 



The following Narrative embraces a period of six years, five of 
which were spent among various tribes on the banks of the 
Columbia River and its tributary streams ; and the remaining 
portion was occupied in the voyage outwards, and the journey 
across the continent. 

During this period the author ascended the Columbia nine 
times, and descended it eight ; wintered among various tribes : 
was engaged in several encounters with the Indians; was lost 
fourteen days in a wilderness, and had many other extraordinary 
escapes. 

He kept journals of the principal events which occurred during 
the greater part of this period, the substance of which will be 
found imbodied in the following pages. Those who love to read 
of " battle, murder, and sudden death," will, in his description of 
the dangers and privations to which the life of an Indian trader is 
subject, find much to gratify their taste ; while to such as are fond 
of nature, in its rudest and most savage forms, he trusts his sketches 
of the wild and wandering tribes of Western America may not 
be found uninteresting. 

They cannot lay claim to the beautiful colouring which the roman- 
tic pen of a Chateaubriand has imparted to his picture of Indian 
manners ; for the author, unfortunately, did not meet with any 
tribe which approached that celebrated writer's splendid descrip- 
tion of savage life. He has seen many of them before the con- 



VI PREFACE. x 

tamination of white men could have deteriorated their native 
character ; and, while he records with pleasure the virtues and 
bravery of some, truth compels him to give a different character 
to the majority. 

The press has of late years teemed with various "Recollec- 
tions," " Reminiscences," &c. of travels, scenes, and adventures 
in well-known countries ; but no account has been yet published of 
a great portion of the remote regions alluded to in this work. 
They are therefore new to the world ; and, if the author's unpre- 
tending narrative possesses no other claim to the public favour, it 
cannot at least be denied that of novelty. 



INTRODUCTION. 



In the year 1G70 a charter was granted by Charles the Sec- 
ond to the Hudson's-Bay Company, whose first governor was 
Prince Rupert, by which the Company was allowed the exclu- 
sive privilege of establishing trading factories on the shores of 
that noble bay and its tributary rivers. Owing to this charter, 
the fur-trade, which forms an important and extensive branch of 
American commerce, was for ;i long period monopolized by the 
Company; but, from the peculiar nature of its constitution, little 
progress was made by its officers in extending its trading posts, 
or exploring the interior, until the year 1770, when Mr. Hearne 
was sent on an expedition to the Arctic Sea, for an account of 
which I beg to refer the reader to that gentleman's simple and 
interesting narative. 

While Canada belonged to France the Canadian traders had 
advanced many hundred miles beyond Lake Superior, and es- 
tablished several trading posts in the heart of the country, some 
of which the voyageurs still call by their original names ; such as 
Fort Dauphin, Fort Bourbon, and others. 

The conquest of that province opened a new source of trade 
to British enterprise ; and while the officers of the Hudson's- 
Bay Company fancied their charter had secured them in the 
undisturbed possession of their monopoly, an active and enter- 
prising rival was gradually encroaching on their territories, and 
imperceptibly undermining their influence with the Indians ; I 
allude to the North-West Fur Company of Canada, which ori- 
ginally consisted of a few private traders, but subsequently be- 
came the first commercial establishment in British America. 

It is not here necessary to enter into a detail of the formation 
and increase of this Company. Its first members were British 
and Canadian merchants; among whom Messrs. Rocheblave, 
Frobisher, Fraser, M'Tavish, Mackenzie, and M'Gillivray were 
the most prominent. Their clerks were chiefly younger branches 
of respectable Scottish families, who entered the service as ap- 
prentices for seven years ; for which period they were allowed 
one hundred pounds, and suitable clothing. At the expiration 
of their apprenticeship they were placed on yearly salaries, va- 
rying from eighty to one hundred and sixty pounds, and accord- 
ing to their talents were ultimately provided for as partners ; 



Vlll INTRODUCTION. 

some, perhaps in a year or two after the termination of their 
engagements ; while others remained ten, twelve, or sixteen 
years in a state of probation. 

This system, by creating an identity of interest, produced a 
spirit of emulation among the clerks admirably calculated to 
promote the general good; for, as each individual was led to 
expect that the period for his election to the proprietary depended 
on his own exertions, every nerve was strained to attain the 
long-desired object of his wishes. 

Courage was an indispensable qualification, not merely for 
the casual encounters with the Indians, but to intimidate any 
competitor in trade with whom he might happen to come in 
collision. Success was looked upon as the great criterion of a 
trader's cleverness ; and provided he obtained for his outfit of 
merchandise what was considered a good return of furs, the 
partners never stopped to inquire about the means by which they 
were acquired. 

The Hudson's-Bay Company, on the contrary, presented no 
such inducements to extra exertion on the part of its officers. 
Each individual had a fixed salary, without any prospect of be- 
coming a proprietor ; and some of them, whose courage was 
undoubted, when challenged to single combat by a North-Wester, 
refused ; alleging as a reason, that they were engaged to trade 
for furs, and not to fight with fellow-subjects. 

Independently of the foregoing circumstances, the North- 
West Company in the selection of its canoe-men, or, as they are 
called, engages, had another great advantage over its chartered 
rival. These men were French Canadians, remarkable for 
obedience to their superiors ; and whose skill in managing ca- 
noes, capability of enduring hardships, and facility of adapting 
themselves to the habits and peculiarities of the various tribes, 
rendered them infinitely more popular in the eyes of Indians 
than the stubborn, unbending, matter-of-fact Orkney men, into 
whose ideas a work of supererogation never entered.* 

The diminished amount of their imports, joined to the in- 
creased demand of goods from their factories, at length opened 
the eyes of the Hudson's-Bay directors to the success of their 
formidable opponents, and induced them to attempt, when too 
late, to arrest their career. By their charter they now laid claim 
to the exclusive privilege of trading, not merely on the Missis- 
sippi River and its various branches, but also on the Saskacha- 
wan, Red River, and all the other streams which empty them- 
selves into the great Lake Winepic, the waters of which are 
carried to Hudson's-Bay by the rivers Nelson and Severn. 

* The chief part of the boatmen, and several of the officers of the Hudson's- 
Bay Company were, formerly, natives of the Orkney Islands. 



INTRODUCTION. IX 

This territorial claim, unsupported by any physical power, had 
but little weight with their persevering rivals. They were far 
beyond the reach of magisterial authority ; and an injunc- 
tion could not be easily served, nor obedience to it enforced in 
a country fifteen hundred or two thousand miles beyond the lim- 
its of any recognised jurisdiction. 

After establishing opposition trading posts adjoining the differ- 
ent factories of the Hudson's-Bay Company in the interior, the in- 
defatigable North-Westers continued their progress to the north- 
ward and westward, and formed numerous trading establishments 
at Athabasca, Peace River, Great and Lesser Slave Lakes, New 
Caledonia, the Columbia, &c. ; to none of which places did the 
officers of the Hudson's-Bay attempt to follow them. By these 
means the North- West Company became undisputed masters of 
the interior. Their influence with the natives was all-powerful ; 
and no single trader, without incurring imminent danger from 
the Indians, or encountering the risk of starvation, could attempt 
to penetrate into their territories. 

A few independent individuals, unconnected with either com- 
pany, the chief of whom was Mr. John Jacob Astor, a wealthy 
merchant of New-York, still carried on a fluctuating trade with 
the Indians, whose lands border Canada and the United States ; 
but their competition proved injurious to themselves, as prices 
far above their value were frequently given to the natives for 
their furs. 

With the interior thus inaccessible, and the confines not worth 
disputing, Mr. Astor turned his thoughts to the opposite side of 
the American continent ; and accordingly made proposals to the 
North- West Company to join with him in forming an establish- 
ment on the Columbia River. This proposition was submitted 
to the consideration of a general meeting of the wintering pro- 
prietors ; and, after some negotiations as to the details, rejected. 

Mr. Astor therefore determined to make the attempt without 
their co-operation ; and in the winter of 1809, he succeeded in 
forming an association called the " Pacific Fur Company," of 
which he himself was the chief proprietor. As able and expe- 
rienced traders were necessary to ensure success, he induced 
several of the gentlemen connected with the North- West Com- 
pany to quit that establishment and join in his speculation. 
Among these was Mr. Alexander M'Kay, an old partner, who 
had accompanied Sir Alexander Mackenzie in his perilous jour- 
ney across the continent to the Pacific Ocean. 

It was intended in the first instance to form a trading establish- 
ment at the entrance of the Columbia, and as many more subse- 
quently on its tributary streams as the nature and productions of 
the country would admit. It was also arranged that a vessel 



X INTRODUCTION. 

laden with goods for the Indian trade should sail every year 
from New- York to the Columbia, and after discharging her cargo 
at the establishment, take on board the produce of the year's 
trade, and thence proceed to Canton, which is a ready market 
for furs of every description. On disposing of her stock of 
peltries at the latter place, she was to return to New- York 
freighted with the productions of China. 

The first vessel fitted out by the Pacific Fur Company was 
the Tonquin, commanded by Captain Jonathan Thorne, formerly 
a lieutenant in the service of the United States. She sailed 
from New- York in the autumn of 1810, and had on board four 
partners, nine clerks, with a number of mechanics and voyageurs, 
with a large and well assorted cargo for the Indian and Chinese 
trades. Much about the same period a party under the com- 
mand of Messrs. W. P. Hunt, and Donald Mackenzie, left Saint 
Louis on the Missouri, with the intention of proceeding as nearly 
as possible by Lewis and Clarke's route across the continent to 
the mouth of the Columbia. This party consisted, besides the 
above gentlemen, who were partners, of three clerks, and 
upwards of seventy men. 

The following year, 1811, another vessel, the Beaver, of four 
hundred and eighty tons, commanded by Captain Cornelius 
Sowles, sailed for the Columbia. She had on board one part- 
ner, six clerks, and a number of artisans and voyageurs, with a 
plentiful supply of every thing that could contribute to the com- 
fort of the crew and passengers. 

The exaggerated reports then in circulation relative to the 
wealth to be obtained in the Columbia, induced merchants of 
the first respectability to solicit for their sons appointments in 
the new Company ; and many of their applications were unsuc- 
cessful. The author, who was at this period in New- York, cap- 
tivated with the love of novelty, and the hope of speedily realizing 
an independence in the supposed _EZ Dorada, exerted all his 
influence to obtain a clerkship in the Company. He succeeded, 
and was one of those who embarked on board the Beaver. 

"With what success his golden anticipations were crowned, 
together with all his " travels' history," will be amply detailed 
in the following Narrative. 



CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER I. 

Singularly luminous appearance of the ocean — The Equator — Ma- 
gellanic Clouds — Falkland islands — Storm, and loss of two men — 
Cape Horn — Dreadful storm — Islands of Juan Fernandez and Massa- 
fuero — Trade Winds in the Pacific — A shark — Arrival at Sandwich 
Islands 25 



CHAPTER II. 

Whoahoo — Visit from a chief— Nocturnal excursion — King and 
queens — Invasion of the ship — White men — Gardens — Foot race, and 
summary justice — Throwing the spear — Royal residence, and body 
guard — Mourning for a chief's wife — Billy Pitt, George Washing- 
ton, &a . . 34 



CHAPTER III. 

Tamaamah — The Eooranee — Curious custom — Fickleness in dress 
— Character of natives — Important position of the islands — Cow hunt- 
ing — Complete our supplies — Take a number of natives — Departure — 
New Discovery — Arrival at the Columbia 45 



CHAPTER IV. 

Account of the Tonquin — Loss of her chief mate, seven men, and 
two boats — Extraordinary escape of Weekes — Erection of Astoria — 
Mr. Thompson of the N. W. Company — Arrival of Messrs. Hunt and 
Mackenzie, and sketch of their journey over-land . . .54 



CHAPTER V. 

Particulars of the destruction of the Tonquin and crew — Indians 
attack a party ascending the river — Description of fort, natives, and 
the country 63 



CHAPTER VI. 

Departure from Astoria — Description of our party, lading, &c. — Ap- 
pearance of river and islands — Fleas and mosquitoes — First rapids, 
dangerous accident — Indian cemetery — Ugly Indians — Gibraltar — Cape 



Xll CONTENTS. 

Horn — The narrows and falls — Change in the appearance of the coun- 
try — Attempt at robbery — Mounted Indians 72 

CHAPTER VII. 

Party commence eating horses — Remarkable escape from a rattle- 
snake — Kill numbers of them — Arrive among the Wallah Wallah tribe 
— Description of the country — The Pierced-nose Indians — Author's 
party proceeds up Lewis River — Purchase horses for land-travelling — 
Prickly pears — Awkward accident — Leave the canoes, and journey 
inland 81 



CHAPTER VIII. 

Author loses the party — Curious adventures, and surprising escapes 
from serpents and wild beasts during fourteen days in a wilderness — 
Meets with Indians, by whom he is hospitably received and conducted 
to his friends 88 



CHAPTER IX. 

Remarkable case of Mr. Pritchard, who was thirty-five days lost — 
Situation of Spokan House — Journey to the Flat-head lands, and de- 
cription of that tribe — Return to Spokan House — Christmas-day — Horse 
eating — Spokan peculiarities — Articles of trade — A duel . . 99 



CHAPTER X. 

Execution of an Indian for robbery — War between Great Britain and 
the United States — Dissolution of the Pacific Fur Company — Author 
joins the North-West Company, and proceeds to the Rocky Moun- 
tains — Meets a party, and returns to the sea — Robbery of goods, and 
successful stratagem to recover the property — Attack at night — Dog- 
eating — Author and three men pursued by Indians — Narrow escape 106 



CHAPTER XL 

Author proceeds to Oakinagan, and thence to the Flat-heads, where 
he passes the winter — Cruel treatment of the Black-feet prisoners by 
the Flat-heads — Horrible Spectacle — Buffalo the cause of war between 
the two tribes — Women — Government — Peace and war chiefs — Wolves 
— Anecdote of a dog — Syrup of lurch — Surgical and medical know- 
ledge of the Flat-heads — Remarkable cure of rheumatism — Their ideas 
of a future state, and curious tradition respecting the beavers — Name 
of Flat-head a misnomer — A marriage 117 



CHAPTER XII. 

Effect of snow on the eyes — Description of a winter at Oakinagan 
— News from the sea — Capture of Astoria by the Racoon sloop of war 



CONTENTS. Kill 

— Offer of Chinooks to cut off the British — A party attacked; Mr. 
Stewart wounded; two Indians killed — Arrival of Mr. Hunt — Ship- 
wreck of the Lark — Massacre of Mr. Read and eight of his men — Ex- 
traordinary escape of Dorrien's widow and children . . . 129 

CHAPTER XIII. 

Arrival of the Isaac Tod — Miss Jane Barnes, a white woman — Mur- 
der of one of our men by Indians — Trial and execution of the mur- 
derers — Death of Mr. Donald M'Tavish and five men . . .139 



CHAPTER XIV. 

Sketch of the Indians about the mouth of the Columbia — Process of 
flattening the head — Thievish disposition — Treatment of their slaves 
— Suggestions to the missionary societies — Dreadful ravages of the 
small-pox — Jack Ramsay — Their ideas of religion — Curious super- 
stition — Marriage ceremonies — Anecdote — Aversion to ardent spirits — 
Government — War — Arms and armour — Canoes and houses — System 
of cooking — Utensils — Gambling — Haiqua — Quack doctors — Mode of' 
burial . 146 



CHAPTER XV. 

Voyage to the interior — Party attacked, and one man killed — Arrive 
at Spokan House — Joy of the Indians at our return — The chiefs speech 
— Sketch of Mr. M'Donald — Duel prevented between him and a chief — 
Kettle Indians ; their surprise at seeing white men — Curious account 
of an hermaphrodite chief — Death of Jacques Hoole . . . 160 



CHAPTER XVI. 

The party attacked by the natives at the Wallah Wallah River — Two 
killed — Encamp on an island for safety — Indians demand two white 
men as a sacrifice — Arrival of a chieftain — His speech, and peace re- 
stored 172 



CHAPTER XVII. 

Author and party lost in a snow-storm — Curious instance of mental 
abstraction — Poor Ponto — Arrive at Spokan House — A marriage — 
Great ravine — Agates — Hot-springs — Kitchen-garden — Indian manner 
of hunting the deer — Method adopted by the wolves for the same pur- 
pose — Horse-racing — Great heat 183 



CHAPTER XVIII. 

Letter from Mr. Stewart — His account of New Caledonia — Naviga- 
tion of the Columbia obstructed by ice — Miserable situation of the party 
during the winter — Author frost-bitten — Amusements — Departure of 



XIV CONTENTS. 



Mr. Keith — His letters — Author and party quit their winter encamp- 
ment — Rapid change of seasons — Arrive at Fort George . . 192 



CHAPTER XIX. 

Author placed in charge of Oakinagan — Erects new buildings there 
— Mosquitoes — sagacity of the horses — Rattlesnakes good food — Sar- 
saparilla — Black snakes — Climate — Whirlwinds — Handsome situation 
— Character of the tribe — Manner of trading — Extraordinary cures of 
consumption ....'. 203 



CHAPTER XX. 

Author nearly blinded by hawks — Foxes — Great number of wolves 
— Their method of attacking horses — Lynxes — Bears — Anecdote of a 
kidnapping bruin — Ingenious plan of getting off bear-skins — Account of 
the horses on the Columbia — Great feat performed by one . 210 



CHAPTER XXI. 

Letter from the proprietors — Author winters at Oakinagan — Letter 
from Mr. Mackenzie — A number of horses stolen — Successful plan to 
recover them — Description of soil, climate, productions, &c. of the 
lower part of the Columbia 218 



CHAPTER XXII. 

Description of climate, soil, &c. above the rapids — Sketch of va- 
rious tribes — the Chohoptins — Yackamans — Oakinagans — Sinapoils — 
Spokans — Anecdote — Pointed-hearts — Cause of war — Cootonais — Ket- 
tle Indians — Kamloops, &c. 227 



CHAPTER XXIII. 

Ascent of the Columbia — Its lakes — Dangerous navigation — High 
water — Arrive at the mountains — Melancholy detail of the death of six 
of the party 236 



CHAPTER XXIV. 

Canoe Valley and River — Appearance of Mountains — M'Gillivray's 
Rock — Dangerous situation of party on a raft — Arrive at Rocky Moun- 
tain House — Volcanic appearances — Animals, &c. — Indian tradition 
respecting Mammoth — Difference in size of trees . . . 246 



CHAPTER XXV. 

Descent of the Athabasca River — Party disappointed in receiving 
provisions — Elk River and Lake — Join the brigade from Lesser Slave 



CONTENTS. XV 

Lake — Arrive at He a la Crosse — Dreadful effects of the opposition be- 
tween the North- West and Hudson's-Bay Companies — Sketch of Mr. 
Peter Ogden 257 

CHAPTER XXVI. 

English River — Pass numerous lakes and rapids — Arrive at Cumber- 
land House — Saskachawaine river — Lake Winepic — Aurora Borealis — 
River Winepic — Meet various parties — Rainy Lake and Fort — Death of 
an Indian 270 



CHAPTER XXVII. 

Leave Rainy Lake — Messrs. M'Gillivray and La Rocque — Sketch of 
Messrs. Wentzel and M'Neill — Great Falls of the mountain — Descrip- 
tion of Fort William, its inhabitants, &c 281 



CHAPTER XXVIII. 

Enter Lake Superior — St. Mary's Falls — Sketch of Mr. Johnston — 
Lake Huron — French River — Lake Nipising — Arrive on the Ottawa — 
A back-woodsman— Chaudiere Falls — Hull — Longue Sault — Mr. Grant 
— Laughable mistake — Mr. M'Donald Le Pretre — Mr. M'Gilles — Sny- 
der's Tavern — Lake of the Two Mountains — La Chine — Arrive at Mont- 
real 290 



CHAPTER XXIX. 

Sketches of the Canadian Voyageurs — Anecdote of La Liberte — The 
Freemen, or Trappers — The Half-breeds — Anecdote — Retired Partners 
— Josephine — Francaise — Amusing Letter — Iroquois Indians — Anec- 
dote 305 



CONCLUSION. 

Coalition of the two Companies — New Caledonia — Description of 
the Chilcotins, Talkotins, &c. — Soil, produce, lakes, rivers, animals, cli- 
mate — Peculiarities of the natives — Suicides — Cruelty to relatives — 
Horrible treatment of prisoners — Sanguinary quarrels — Extraordinary 
ceremonies attending the dead — Barbarities practised on widows, &c. — 
Table of population 316 

Appendix 333 



SIX YEARS' RESIDENCE 



ON 



THE BANKS OF 

THE COLUMBIA KIVER, &c. 



CHAPTER I. 

Singularly luminous appearance of the ocean — The Equator — Magellanic 
clouds — Falkland Islands — Storm, and loss of two men — Cape Horn — 
Dreadful storm — Islands of Juan Fernandez and Massafuero — Trade-winds 
in the Pacific — A shark — Arrival at Sandwich Islands. 

On Thursday the 17th of October, 1811, we sailed from New- 
York, witli a gentle breeze from the northward, and in a few 
hours lost sight of the highlands of " Never Sink." Our cabin 
passengers were, Messrs. Clarke, Clapp, Halsey, Nicolls, Seton, 
Ehninger, and self; with Captain Sowles, and Messrs. Rhodes, 
Champenois, and Dean, officers of the ship. 

Nothing particular occurred until the night of the 7th of No- 
vember, when we were gratified with observing the ocean as- 
sume that fiery appearance mentioned by several of our circum- 
navigators ; to account for which has not a little perplexed the 
most erudite inquirers into marine phenomena. During our pas- 
sage through these liquid flames we had what sailors term a 
" smacking breeze" of eight knots. The captain declared that 
he had never witnessed so luminous an appearance of the sea ; 
and so great was the light afforded by the waves, that we were 
thereby enabled to peruse books of a moderate-sized print ! 

On the following day, the 8th, we made the Cape de Verds, at 
which place it was the captain's intention to stop for a day or 
two ; but the wind being favourable he relinquished the idea, 
and kept under way. We had fine gales and pleasant weather 
until the 17th, on which day we crossed the Equator, in longi- 
tude 30° west, with a light northerly breeze, which on the follow- 
ing day subsided into a dead calm : this calm continued eight 
days, during which period we did not advance ten miles. 

Vol. I.— C 



26 FALKLAND ISLANDS. 

On the 26th a smart breeze sprang up, which drove us on 
nobly at the rate of from seven to ten knots an hour. The 28th 
we spoke a Portuguese brig bound from Rio Grande to Pernam- 
buco. The captain and crew of this vessel were all negroes, 
the lowest of whom was six feet high. We inquired from the 
sable commander what was his longitude ; but he could not give 
us any information on the subject ! After setting this unfortu- 
nate navigator right, we pursued our course ; and the wind still 
continuing fresh, we were quickly emancipated from the scorch- 
ing influence of a vertical sun. 

On the 10th of December, in latitude 39", we spoke the 
American ship Manilla, Captain M'Lean, on her return from a 
whaling voyage, and bound to Nantucket, RJiode Island. The 
captain came on board, and politely waited till we had written 
a few letters, of which he took charge. A few days after this 
we lost sight of the celebrated Magellanic clouds, which had 
been visible almost from the time we crossed the Equator. 
That these nebulae should be so immutable in their form and 
station, has been a source of no trifling perplexity to our natu- 
ral philosophers. As so much ink has already been consumed 
in speculations respecting these phenomena, and such various 
and conflicting opinions elicited from the most learned astrono- 
mers of the last and present age, I conceive it would be pre- 
sumptuous in me to offer a single word on the subject. These 
clouds are white, and in shape nearly resemble an equilateral 
triangle, rounded at each angular point. 

On the 21st of December, at 5 a. m., land was discovered on 
our weather-bow. The captain pronounced it to be the coast of 
Patagonia; and acting on this opinion, we kept along-shore, in 
order to pass between the Falkland Islands and the mainland ; but, 
strange to tell ! at noon, when he obtained a meridian observa- 
tion, he discovered that what lie previously conceived to be the 
Patagonian coast was in reality a part of the Falkland Islands. 
To account for this mistake, it is proper to mention, that during 
the preceding ten days the haziness of the weather precluded 
the possibility of our obtaining either a solar or lunar observa- 
tion : we therefore were compelled to sail entirely by dead- 
reckoning. To this may be added the effeet of a strong west- 
erly current : and had the obscure weather continued but a day 
longer, the consequences might have proved fatal. 

As the wind was fair, and we had proceeded so far, the cap- 
tain abandoned his original intention, and determined to sail round 
the eastern extremity of the islands, and from thence to shape 
his course for Cape Horn. We coasted along the shore until 
the 24th, with light westerly and south-westerly breezes. — 
Albatrosses, penguins, and pintado birds were very numerous 



A STORM, AND LOSS OF TWO MEN. 27 

around the ship. We shot several, and took others with a 
hook and bait. One albatross which we caught in this manner 
received but little injury. It had an enormously large bill, 
measured eleven feet from wing to wing when extended, and 
kept a fierce English bull-dog at bay for half an hour. 

Although the Falkland Islands occupy in the southern hemi- 
sphere a similar degree of latitude to that of Ireland in the north- 
ern, still they possess none of the characteristic fertility of the 
" Emerald Isle." Of grass, properly so called, there is none in 
those islands. In vegetable and animal productions they are 
also deficient ; and the climate, generally speaking, is- cold, va- 
riable, and stormy : yet for such a place the British empire was 
on the point of being involved in a war, the preparations for 
which cost the nation some millions !* 

On the 24th we took leave of the islands with a gentle breeze 
right aft, but this changed ere we had cleared the Sea-lion rocks 
to a violent head gale. All the lighter sails were instantly furled ; 
in the hurry of doing which, the gaskets or small ropes which 
bound the flying jib gave way, and two sailors were sent out to 
adjust it. While they were in the act of performing this hazard- 
ous duty, a tremendous wave struck the forepart of the ship, car- 
ried away the jib-boom, and with it the two unfortunate men who 
were securing the sail. The ship was immediately hove to, and 
every piece of timber, empty barrel, or hen-coop on deck was 
thrown over to afford the unfortunate men a chance of escape. 
Unhappily, all our efforts were unavailing ; the poor fellows re- 
mained in sight about ten minutes, when they disappeared amid 
the raging billows. When the accident occurred, two of the 
ship's company jumped into the jolly-boat, and with all the 
thoughtless good-nature of sailors, were about cutting away the 
lashings to go to the assistance of their ill-fated messmates, when 
the captain observing them, ordered them out of the boat, ex- 
claiming, "D — n you, have you a mind to go to hell also ?" 

This was the most gloomy Christmas-eve I ever spent. The 
above melancholy accident had thrown a cloud over every coun- 
tenance , and when to this was added the darkness of the cabin 
(the dead-lights being all in), with the loud roaring of the storm, 
and the Alpine waves threatening every instant to ingulf us, our 
situation may be more easily imagined than described. Home, 
with all its mild and social endearments at this season of general 
festivity, involuntarily obtruded itself on our recollections. The 
half-expressed wish of being once more on terra firma was un- 
consciously communicated from one to another. But when we 

* It may be remembered that our ejection from these islands by Buccarelli, a 
Spanish officer, brought the celebrated Samuel Johnson in collision with Junius. 



28 CAPE HORN. 

looked upon the weather-beaten face of our veteran captain, and 
observed the careless, if not contented air of his officers and 
crew, when we felt that they were enduring the " peltings of the 
pitiless storm" unmoved and without a murmur ; and when we 
reflected on the immense expanse of ocean through which we 
had to plough our way, and how fruitless would be the indul- 
gence of unmanly apprehension, — " to the wind we gave our 
sighs," ascended to the deck, and tendered our feeble assistance 
to the captain. 

The gale continued with much violence until the 29th ; when, 
at two p. m. we made Staten Land. At four p. m. we perceived 
the " snow-topped" mountains of Terra del Fuego, rearing their 
majestic heads above the clouds, and surveying with cold indif- 
ference the conflict of the contending oceans that on all sides 
6urround them. As we approached Cape Horn the weather 
moderated, and the captain ordered all the lighter masts and 
yards again to be rigged. 

January 1st, 18T2, at two p. be., on this day, we bade adieu 
to the Atlantic, and sailed round the long-dreaded southern 
extremity of America, with a gentle breeze from the N.N.W. at 
the rate of one mile per hour, and under top-gallant studding- 
sails ; a circumstance, I believe, unparalleled in the history of 
circumnavigation. 

Towards evening the wind died away, and 

Not a breeze disturb'd the wide serene. 

Our entrance into the great Pacific was marked by none of 
those terrible concussions of the " vasty deep," the frequency of 
which have given such a fearful celebrity to Cape Horn. It 
seemed as if the two mighty oceans had ceased for a period their 
dreadful warfare, and mingled their waters in the blessed calm 
of peace. On our right rose the wild inhospitable shores of 
Terra del Fuego ; on the left lay the low desert islands of Diego 
Ramarez ; while all around myriads of whales, porpoises, and 
other marine monsters, emerging at intervals from the deep, and 
rolling their huge bodies over the placid surface of the surround- 
ing element, agreeably diversified the scene. 

This calm was of short duration. On the following day the 
wind shifted once more ahead, and drove us as far as 61° S. be- 
fore we cleared Cape Noire, the south-western point of Terra del 
Fuego. During this period we had a succession of cold boister- 
ous weather, and occasionally came in collision with large masses 
of floating ice, from which we however escaped without injury. 

It is unnecessary to mention to my geographical readers that 
the period at which we doubled the Cape is the summer season 
in the high southern latitudes; and if such be its attractions in 



DREADFUL STOKM. 29 

the balmy season of the year, what a region must it be on the 
arrival of 

Barren Winter, with his nipping colds ! 

We are informed by the early geographers that Terra del 
Fuego was so called from several volcanoes which contrasted 
their vivid flames with the surrounding icy wastes : and from 
the same authority we learn that Patagonia, which is on the 
opposite side of the Straits of Magellan, was inhabited by a 
race of people of immense stature. Modern travellers, however, 
have obtained a more correct knowledge of that country, and 
have reduced the wonderful altitude of the supposed giants to 
the common standard of humanity. Young travellers should 
not make rash assertions, particularly if opposed to the received 
opinions of the world. I cannot however avoid saying, that it 
is my belief there is no better foundation for the volcanoes than 
there was for the accounts of the giants. For several days that 
we were in sight of this supposed land of fire, we did not ob- 
serve the smallest appearance of smoke ; and our captain, who 
had made many voyages round Cape Horn, declared he had 
never perceived the slightest volcanic appearance in its neigh- 
bourhood. 

On the 12th of January, the wind veered in our favour, and 
enabled us to proceed with brisk southerly breezes till the 19th, 
on which clay, in lat. 52°, long. 79° W, nearly abreast of the Straits 
of Magellan, we encountered a most dreadful gale from the east- 
ward, which lasted eighteen hours. Our ship was a stout, strong- 
built vessel, notwithstanding which she sustained considerable 
damage. The bulwarks were completely washed away; the head 
carried off; the mainmast and bowsprit sprung ; and the foresail, 
which was the only one set, was blown to a thousand shivers. We 
shipped several heavy seas in the cabin, and for some time all our 
trunks were floating. The violence of the storm, however, mode- 
rated on the 20th, and enabled us once more to bring the vessel 
under control: had it continued twelve hours longer, we should 
inevitably have been dashed to pieces on the iron-bound shores of 
Terra del Fuego ; for, at the period the hurricane broke, we were 
not twenty-five leagues from shore; and owing to the unmanage- 
able state of the vessel, the wind was driving us with unopposed 
force in that direction. The billows made sad havoc among the 
remainder of our live-stock. The sheep, poultry, and most of 
our hogs were carried away ; and a few only of the last, fortu- 
nately for us, escaped drowning, to die by the hands of the 
butcher. 

On the 27th a young man named Henry Willetts, who had 
been engaged as a hunter in the Company's service, died of the 



30 MASSAFUERO. 

black scurvy, a disease which it is supposed he had contracted 
previous to his embarkation, as no other person on board had 
any scorbutic affection. As many of my readers may not be 
acquainted with the melancholy ceremony of consigning the 
body of a fellow-being to the deep, I shall mention it. The de- 
ceased was enveloped in his blankets, in which two large pieces 
of lead were sewed, and placed immediately under his feet. 
The body was then laid on a plank, one end of which rested on 
the railing, and the other was supported by his comrades, the 
crew and passengers forming a circle about it. The beautiful 
and sublime burial service of the church of England was then 
read in an audible and impressive manner by Mr. Nicolls, who 
officiated as chaplain, after which the plank was raised, the body 
with the feet downwards slided gently into the ocean, and in a 
moment we lost sight of it for ever. 

On the 4th of February, at 2 p. m., we made the island of 
Juan Fernandez ; and at six, that of Massafuero, at the latter of 
which the captain determined to touch for a supply of wood 
and water. It was on the former island, in the beginning of 
the eighteenth century, that Alexander Selkirk, a Scotchman, re- 
sided for several years, and from whose rude indigested story 
the ingenious De Foe, by adding the fictitious Friday, &c. has 
given to the world the delightful romance of Robinson Crusoe. 

On the morning of the 5th we stood in to about five miles off 
shore, when the ship was hove to ; and at six o'clock we pro- 
eeeded for the island in the pinnace and jolly-boat, with twenty- 
four empty water-casks. Our party, including mates, passen- 
gers, and sailors, amounted to twenty-three. A heavy surf 
broke along the beach, and after searching in vain for a fair 
opening to disembark, we were reduced to the disagreeable 
necessity of throwing ourselves through the surf, and succeeded 
in accomplishing a landing at the imminent risk of our lives. 
After making a cheering fire to dry our clothes, we divided into 
two parties for the purpose of exploring the island. Messrs. 
Clarke, Clapp, and Seton formed one ; and Messrs. Nicolls, 
Halsey, and myself the other ; Messrs. Rhodes, Dean, and 
Ehninger remained in the boats, and at the landing-place, to 
superintend the watering and fishing business. 

The island appears to be one vast rock, split by some convul- 
sion of nature into five or six parts. It was through one of these 
chasms that our party determined to proceed ; and accoutred 
each with a fowling-piece, horn and pouch, we set forward in 
quest of adventures. The breadth of the aperture at its en- 
trance did not exceed fifty feet, and it became narrower as we 
advanced ; through the bottom meandered a clear stream of 
fine water, from which the boats were supplied, and which 



MASSAFUERO. 31 

proved of great service to us in the course of our excursion. 
We had not proceeded more than half a mile when we en- 
countered so many difficulties in climbing over steep rocks, 
passing ponds, waterfalls, &c., that we were compelled to 
leave our guns behind us. Thus disembarrassed, we continued 
our course for upwards of two miles up a steep ascent, follow- 
ing the different windings of the stream, which, at intervals, 
tumbling over large rocks, formed cascades which greatly im- 
peded our progress. 

In proportion as we advanced, the duylight seemed to recede, 
and for some time we were involved in an almost gloomy dark- 
ness, on account of the mountain tops on each side nearly form- 
ing a junction. We now regretted the want of our guns, as 
we observed a great number of goats on the surrounding preci- 
pices ; and the dead bodies of several, in a more or less decayed 
state, which we supposed must have fallen in bounding from 
cliff to cliff, and ascending the slippery and almost perpendicular 
hills among which they vegetate. A little further on, on turning 
the point of a projecting rock, we were agreeably relieved by 
the bright rays of the sun, which shone with great splendour on 
the chaotic mass of rocks by which we were encompassed. 
Reanimated by the presence of this cheering object, we redou- 
bled our pace, and were already congratulating ourselves with 
being near the summit of the mountain (which from the height 
we had ascended must have been the case), when our progress 
was arrested by a large pond, upwards of twenty feet deep ; 
and from the steepness of the rocks on each side, it was im- 
possible to pass it except by swimming. We therefore deter- 
mined to return before night overtook us in such a dreary place ; 
and after encountering fifty hair-breadth escapes, reached the 
watering-place about seven o'clock, hungry as wolves, and 
almost fatigued to death. Here we found the other party, who 
had arrived a short time before us. Messrs. Clark and Clapp 
shot two fat goats ; and Mr. Dean, who with three men re- 
mained in the boats, caught between three and four hundred 
excellent fish, out of which we succeeded in making an excel- 
lent supper. 

Sixteen of the casks being now filled, Mr. Rhodes judged it 
expedient to proceed with them to the ship, and to return the 
following day for the remainder. Ten were made fast to the 
pinnace and six to the jolly boat, and at one o'clock, a. m., on 
the morning of the 6th, after some hours' hard rowing, we 
reached the ship, amid a storm of thunder, lightning, and rain. 
During that day it blew too fresh to permit the boats to return, 
and we kept standing off and on till the 7th, when the breeze 
moderated, and enabled us to bring off the remaining casks. 



32 CAPTURE OF A SHARK. 

Massafuero rises abruptly from the sea, and has but a narrow 
strip of beach. It was formerly well stocked with seals, but 
these animals have been nearly destroyed by American whalers. 
The goats are numerous, but too rancid to be used for food, 
except in cases of necessity. The island also appeal's to be 
devoid of wood. The carpenter, who went on shore for the pur- 
pose of procuring some that could be used in building a boat, 
found only a few pieces with a close grain, very hard, and in 
colour resembling box : it was fit. only for knees. Mr. Clapp's 
party, in their tour, which was along the beach, around the west- 
ern extremity of the island, saw none of this necessary article ; 
and in the cleft of the mountain through which our party pro- 
ceeded, we observed only a few trees of the kind found by the 
carpenter, growing among inaccessible rocks. The most valua- 
ble production of Massafuero is undoubtedly its fish, of which 
there is a great variety. No one on board was able to appro- 
priate names to all we took. The smallest is a species of whit- 
ing, and very delicate when fried. The largest bears a strong 
resemblance to cod, and by some of our people was deemed 
superior. There are also several kinds of bass, herring, crabs, 
&c. We caught a few conger eels ; the most disgusting I ever 
saw ; but, as a counterbalance, the Massafuero lobster, for large- 
ness of size, beautiful variety of colours, and deliciousness of 
taste, is, I believe, unrivalled. 

With the exception of the fish, there is nothing to induce a 
vessel to touch at this place, while the fruitful island of Juan 
Fernandez is so near, but a desire, as was our case, of conceal- 
ing the object of its voyage from the inquisitive and jealous eyes 
of the Spanish authorities, who were stationed at the latter 
island.* 

A few days after leaving Massafuero we got into the trade- 
winds, which wafted us on at an even, steady rate, varying from 
four to seven knots an hour. 

A curious incident occurred on Sunday, the 23d of February, 
early on the morning of which <]ny n hog had been killed ; a prac- 
tice which had been generally observed every Sabbath morning 
during the voyage. After breakfast, the weather being calm, a 
number of the crew and passengers amused themselves by bathing 
around the vessel. Some of them had returned on board, when a 
sailor on the forecastle discovered a large shark gliding slowly and 
cautiously under the starboard bow. With great presence of mind 

* While Spain held possossion of South America every vessel touching at 
Juan Fernandez was subjected to a rigorous search ; and from the number of 
our grans, joined to the great quantities of warlike stores on board, the captain 
did not deem it prudent to run the risk of an inquisitorial inspection. I should 
hope the officers of the Chilian republic stationed here have adopted a more 
liberal policy. 



SANDWICH ISLANDS. 33 

he instantly seized a small rope called a clew-line, and with cha- 
racteristic despatch made a running knot, which he silently low- 
ered into the water: the monster unwarily passed the head and 
upper fin through the noose; on observing which, the sailor jerked 
the rope round the cat-head, and with the assistance of some 
of his messmates, succeeded in hauling it on deck. In the mean 
time, those who were still sporting in the water were almost par- 
alyzed on hearing the cry of " a shark ! a shark !" and not know r - 
ing on which side of them lay the dreaded danger, some made 
for the ship, and others swam from it ; each momentarily expect- 
ing to come in contact with 

His jaws horrific, arm'd with threefold fate, 

when their fears were dissipated by announcing to them the wel- 
come intelligence of his caption. On dissecting him, the entire 
entrails of the hog which had been killed in the morning were 
found in his belly ! so that he must have been alongside during 
the whole of the forenoon, and was doubtless intimidated by the 
number of the swimmers from attacking any of them indi- 
vidually. 

On the 4th of March we crossed the Equator, for the second 
time this voyage, with a brisk south-easterly breeze ; and on the 
25th, at daybreak, we made the island of Owhyce, the largest 
in the group of the Sandwich Islands. It was the captain's ori- 
ginal intention to stop at this place for his supplies : but on ap- 
proaching Karakakooa bay we were informed by some natives, 
who came oft' in canoes, that Tamaahmaah, the king, then resided 
in Whoahoo. As we were anxious, for several reasons, to have 
an interview with his majesty, the captain relinquished the idea 
of stopping here, and stood about for the latter island. 

As we sailed along Owhyee, with a fine easterly breeze, 
nature and art displayed to our view one of the finest prospects I 
ever beheld. The snow-clad summit of the gigantic Mouna 
Roah, towering into the clouds, with its rocky and dreary sides, 
presented a sublime coup iVccil, and formed a powerful contrast 
to its cultivated base, and the beautiful plantations interspersed 
along the shore. Eternal winter reigned above, while all beneath 
flourished in the luxuriance of perpetual summer. The death, 
too, of the ill-fated and memorable Cook will attach a melancholy 
celebrity to this island ; as it was here that that great naviga- 
tor was sacrificed in a temporary ebullition of savage fury, and 
closed a brilliant career of services, which reflect honour on his 
country, and will perpetuate his name to the latest posterity. 

As the wind continued fresh, we soon cleared Owhyee, and 
passed in succession the islands of Mowee, Ranai, Morotoi, and 
in the evening came in sight of Whoalwo. While we sailed 



34 VISIT FROM A CHIEF. 

along this interesting group of islands several Indians boarded 
us, from whom we purchased a few hogs, some melons, plan- 
tains, &c. It being too late to attempt anchoring this evening, 
we stood off and on during the night. 



CHAPTER II. 

Whoahoo — Visit from a chief — Nocturnal excursion — King and Queens — In- 
vasion of the ship — White men — Gardens — Foot race, and summary justice 
— Throwing the spear — Royal residence, and body-guard — Mourning for 
a chief's wife — Billy Pitt, George Washington, &c. 

On Thursday the 26th of March, at noon, we came to anchor 
outside of the bar in Whytetee bay, about two miles from shore, 
and nearly abreast of a village from which the bay is named. 

A short time after anchoring we were visited by an eree or 
chief, named Tiama, in a double canoe, who was sent by the king 
to learn from whence the ship came, whither bound, &c. After 
obtaining the necessary information, and taking a glass of 
wine, he returned, and was accompanied by the captain, who 
went on shore in order to acquaint his majesty with the particu- 
lar object he had in touching here. Tiama informed us that a 
taboo* was then in force, which accounted for our not being 
visited by any of the natives. At ten o'clock the captain came 
back with Tiama. He had met with a favourable reception 
from Tamaahmaah, who promised to expedite his departure as 
soon as possible. 

Mr. Nicolls observing the chief preparing to return, and being 
impatient to go on shore, proposed that the passengers should 
accompany him : this was opposed by others ; upon which it 
was put to the vote, when four appearing in its favour, the 
motion was of course carried. The ayes were Messrs. Nicolls, 
Clapp, Halsey, and myself: the minority chose to remain on 
board. The weather was calm, and we took with us a couple 
of flutes. Our canoe went on briskly until we passed the chan- 
nel of the bar, when a most delightful nocturnal prospect 
opened on us. The serenity of the sky and the brightness of 
the moon enabled us to discern objects distinctly on shore. The 
village of Whytetee, situated in an open grove of cocoanut- 
trees, with the hills rising gently in the rear, presented a charm- 
ing perspective by moonlight, while the solemn stillness of the 
night,interrupted at intervals by the hoarse murmurs of the surges, 

» See Cook, Vancouver, &c. 



KTNG AND QUEENS. 35 

as they broke over the bar. rendered the scene in the highest 
degree romantic. On landing we found the beach covered 
with a concourse of natives, whom the sound of our flutes had 
attracted thither : they came pressing on us in such crowds, that 
were it not for the chief's authority, we should have had consi- 
derable difficulty in forcing a passage through them. About 
midnight we reached the village, and Tiama conducted us to his 
house, where we experienced a hospitable reception from his 
family, which consisted of three strapping wives, two handsome 
daughters, and a brother, about twenty years of age. A young 
pig lost its life by our arrival, on which, with some cocoanuts 
and bananas, we made an excellent supper. Tiama's brother 
was our major domo : he attached himself particularly to Nicolls, 
who called him Tom ; and as a compensation for his trouble and 
obliging attention to us, made him a present of his stockings, 
which, unfortunately for poor Tom, were silk ones. He was so 
proud of the gift, that he immediately put them over his olive- 
coloured calves, and without any shoes, he continued walking 
and working about the house : this was usage to which silk stock- 
ings were not accustomed, and the consequence was that before 
morning their soles had vanished. Our repast being finished, 
the chief ordered a bevy of young females, who since our arri- 
val had been hovering about the house, to entertain us with one 
of their native airs : they at once complied, and having formed 
themselves into a semicircle, sang in rather an harmonious man- 
ner: their languishing eyes, and significant pauses, evidently 
showed without the aid of an interpreter that the subject was 
amatory. This over, Tom conducted us to a neat lodge which 
Tiama had allotted for our use, and in which we enjoyed the re- 
mainder of the night in undisturbed repose on soft beds of island 
cloth. 

On the following morning we arose early, and took a refresh- 
ing walk on the seashore, after which we returned to the ship 
in Tiama's canoe. Our appearance was a subject of merriment 
to those on board. One bare-legged, another without his cravat, 
the coat of a third closely buttoned up to conceal the absence of 
his vest ; all in fact lighter than when we set out ; but nothing 
was purloined. We had been hospitably entertained by the 
chieftain and his family; gratitude demanded a return, and as 
we had omitted to furnish ourselves with trinkets, we could only 
supply the deficiency by parting with a portion of our least 
useful clothing. 

As the taboo had ceased to operate this day, we found the 
vessel crowded with natives bartering their produce with our 
people. At noon we were honoured by a visit from their majes- 
ties, the king and four queens, attended by Krimacoo, the prime 



36 KINO AND QUEENS. 

minister, and several of the principal chiefs, together with 
Messrs. Maninna and Hairbottle, two white men, the former a 
Spaniard, who held the office of chief interpreter to the king, 
and the latter an Englishman, and head pilot of his majesty's 
fleet. 

The king and queens came in a large double canoe, which 
Was formed by lashing two canoes together, separated by bars of 
two and a half feet in length from each other. Each canoe had 
fourteen chosen men. On the bars was raised a kind of seat on 
which the queens reposed, and above all was placed an arm- 
chest well stored with muskets, on which the king 

Above the rest, 

In shape and gesture proudly eminent, 

Sat like — a tailor. 

Immediately before his majesty was a native who carried a 
handsome silver-hilted hanger, which was presented to him by 
the late emperor of Russia, and which on state occasions he had 
always carried before him, in imitation, as we supposed, of 
European sword-bearers. Behind the royal personage sat 
another native who carried a large and highly polished bowl of 
dark-brown wood, into which his majesty ever and anon ejected 
all his superabundant saliva. 

After he had arrived on the deck, Tamaahmaah shook hands 
in the most condescending manner with every one he met be- 
tween the cabin and the gangway, exclaiming to each person, 
" Aroah, Aroah nuee" (I love you, I love you much). There 
was a degree of negligent simplicity about his dress, which 
strongly characterized the royal philosopher. His head was 
crowned with an old woollen hat ; the coat w r as formed of 
coarse blue cloth in the antique shape, with large metal buttons ; 
the waistcoat of brown velvet, which in its youthful days had 
been black ; a pair of short, tight, and well worn velveteen 
pantaloons displayed to great advantage coarse worsted stock- 
ings and thick-soled shoes, all admirably adapted for the tropics ; 
while his shirt and cravat, which had formerly been white, 
seemed to have had a serious misunderstanding with their wash- 
erwoman. Such, gentle reader, was the costume of Tamaah- 
maah the First, king of the Sandwich Islands, hereditary prince 
of Owhyee, and protector of a confederation of escaped con- 
victs from New South Wales I* 

The royal party remained on board to dine. The king only 

* Tamaahmaah was hereditary kins of Owhyee only ; he subsequently 
conquered all the other islands. A number of convicts are at Whoahoo, who 
escaped from Botany Bay by means of American vessels, and who reside here 
in security. 



KING AND QUEENS. 37 

sat at table.and was placed at the right-hand of the captain, with 
the attendant \vh<> carried his saliva reservoir behind him. lie 
ate voraciously, and in a very commendable manner washed 
down the solids with a fair quantum of Madeira, to the virtues 
of which he appeared by no means to be a stranger. On filling 
the first glass he drank our healths individually ; after which he 
plied away nobly, and apparently unconscious of the presence of 
any of the company. lie did not touch the port, but finished 
between two ami three decanters of the Madeira. As the ladies 
are prohibited from eating with the men, we were of course 
deprived of the pleasure of their society at our repast; but after 
we had quitted the table they were graciously permitted to oc- 
cupy our seats. Their dinner had been dressed on shore by 
their own cooks, and was brought by them on board ; it con- 
sisted of small raw fish, roasted dogs, and a white mixture 
called pooa/i, of the consistence of flummery : this last they take 
by dipping the two forefingers of the right hand into the dish 
which contains the pooah, and after turning them round in the 
mixture until they are covered with three or four coats, they 
raise the hand, and giving the fingers a dexterous twist, to 
shake off the fag-ends, bring them forward rapidly to the mouth, 
which is ready open for their reception, and by a strong labial 
compression, they are quickly cleared of their precious burden ! 
But in plain unadorned simplicity of dress, they far exceeded 
their royal consort. It merely consisted of a long piece of 
their country cloth wrapped in several folds round the waist, 
and reaching only to the knees, leaving the breasts and legs ex- 
posed to the criticisms of amateurs in female beauty ; to this 
they occasionally add a scarf of the same material, which is neg- 
ligently thrown over the shoulders, and falls behind. They are 
very corpulent : the favourite measured nearly nine feet in cir- 
cumference round the waist ; and the others were not much in- 
ferior in size. We may say of the royal taste, that 

They were chosen as we choose old plate, 
Not for their beauty, but their weight. 

Still they possess mild engaging countenances, with that "soft 
sleepiness of the eye" by which Goldsmith distinguishes the 
beauties of Cashmere. Their conduct is under strict surveil- 
lance. Mr. Hairbottle informed us that a few days previous to 
our arrival, an intrigue had been discovered between the favour- 
ite queen and one of the king's body-guard. As their guilt ad- 
mitted of no doubt, the unfortunate paramour was strangled on 
the same night ; but as Tamaahmaah still cherished a lingering 
affection for his frail favourite, he pardoned her, with the short 
but pithy expression, "If you do it again — ." 



38 INVASION OF THE SHIP WHITE MEN. 

During the afternoon the king employed himself in taking the 
dimensions of the ship, examining the cabin, state-rooms, &c. 
Scarcely an object escaped the royal scrutiny : observing Mr. 
Seton writing, he approached him, and began to examine the va- 
rious little knicknacks with which the desk was furnished. Seton 
showed him a handsome penknife of curious workmanship, con- 
taining a number of blades, not with an intention of bestowing 
it : with this he appeared particularly pleased, and putting it 
into one of the pockets of his capacious vest, said, "Mytye, nue 
nue mytye" (good, very good), and walked away. It was in 
vain for Seton to expostulate ; his majesty did not understand 
English, and all entreaties to induce him to return the penknife 
were ineffectual. On the following day, however, a chief 
brought Seton a handsome present from the king, of mats, 
cloth, and other native productions, with two hundred fine 
cocoanuts. 

In the course of the evening the queens played draughts with 
some of our most scientific amateurs, whom they beat hollow ; 
and such was the skill evinced by them in the game, that not 
one of our best players succeeded in making a king. 

Late in the evening our illustrious guests took their departure, 
accompanied by all their attendants ; but they had scarcely 
embarked in their canoes when the ship was boarded on all 
sides by numbers of women, who had come off in small canoes 
paddled by men or elderly females, and who, after leaving their 
precious cargo on deck, returned quickly to the island, lest the 
captain should refuse his sanction to their remaining in the vessel. 
They crowded in such numbers about the crew as to obstruct 
the performance of their duty, and the captain threatened 
to send them all on shore in the ship's boats if they did not 
behave themselves with more propriety. This had the desired 
effect, and while they remained on board they gave no further 
cause for complaint. 

On the following morning, the 28th, we weighed anchor, and 
worked the ship a few miles higher up, exactly opposite the vil- 
lage of Honaroora, where the king resided. We spent the day 
on shore, at the house of a Mr. Holmes, a white man, and a 
native of the United States, by whom we were sumptuously 
entertained. He had been settled here since the year 1793, and at 
the period I speak of was, next to the king, the greatest chief 
on the island. He had one hundred and eighty servants, or 
under-tenants, whom he called slaves, and who occupied small 
huts in the immediate vicinity of his house. He had also 
extensive plantations on Whoahoo, and on the island of Morotoi, 
from whence he derived a considerable income. He was mar- 
ried to a native wife, by whom he had several children. The 



WHITE HON. 39 

eldest was a most interesting girl, aged about fifteen years, with 
a peculiarly soft and expressive countenance. Nature, in her 
freaks, had bestowed upon this island beauty an extraordinary 
profusion of hair, in which the raven tresses of the mother were 
strangely intermingled with the llaxen locks of the father. She 
spoke tolerably good English, and always sat near him. He 
appeared to watch her conduct with all the parental solicitude 
of a man who, from long experience, well knew the danger to 
which she was exposed from the general demoralization of man- 
ners that prevailed about her. Mr. Holmes is greatly respected 
by the natives, by whom he is entitled Erce Homo, or the Chief 
Holmes. 

As we met here several other respectable white men, I shall 
mention their names ; and first, Mr. Maninna. This gentleman 
had been a Spanish officer, and in consequence of having while 
stationed at Mexico killed a superior officer in a quarrel, he fled 
to California, from whence he escaped to the Sandwich Islands, 
where, having acquired the language with wonderful facility, he 
was appointed to the office of chief interpreter. He was a man 
of general information, spoke French and English fluently, and 
from his easy manners and insinuating address, shortly became 
a general favourite. He had built a handsome stone house, the 
only one on the island, in which he resided with his wife, who 
was the daughter of a chief: her sister lived also in the same 
house ; and the busy tongue of scandal, which even here has 
found an entrance, did not hesitate to say that the two sisters 
equally participated in his affections. His drawing-room was 
decorated with a number of Chinese paintings, which he obtained 
from Canton, of the crucifixion, the Madonna, different saints, 
&c. ; but on removing a sliding pannel from the opposite side, 
subjects of a far different nature were represented ! 

Mr. Davis, the king's gardener, was a Welshman, and at this 
period had been settled on the island twelve years. He had also 
considerable plantations, and had a native wife, who was a most 
incontinent jade. He had just returned from a distant part of 
the island, whither he had been in pursuit of his faithless cara 
sposa, who had eloped a few days before with one of her native 
beaux. Poor Davis felt rather sore on being bantered by old 
Holmes on this affair. " Tarn the strap," said he, "I cot her snug 
enough to be sure with her sweetheart ; but I think she'll remem- 
per the pasting I gave her all the tays of her life." We were 
informed he might have easily parted from her, and procured a 
more suitable match, but he was unfortunately too much attached 
to her to think of taking another. 

Mr. Hairbottle, the chief pilot, is a native of Berwick, and was 
formerly boatswain of an English merchant ship. He had resi- 



40 WHITE MEN. 

ded upwards of fourteen years on the different islands, and had 
been married to a native wife, who was dead for some years. 
He was a quiet, unassuming old man, whose principal enjoy- 
ments consisted in a glass of rum grog and a pipe of tobacco. 

Mr. Wadsworth, an American. This gentleman had been 
chief mate of a ship which had touched here about six years 
before. Having quarrelled with his captain, they separated, and 
he took up his residence in the island. The king, who gave par- 
ticular encouragement to white men of education to settle here, 
immediately presented Wadsworth with a belle brunette for a 
wife, together with a house and some hogs. 

Here we also found a gentleman from New-York, under the 
assumed name of Cook ; but who was recognized by Mr. Nicolls 
as a member of a highly respectable family in that city, named 

S s. He had, like Wadsworth, been also chief officer of 

an American East Indiaman, which had touched here about three 
months previous to our arrival ; and in consequence of a misun- 
derstanding with the captain, he left the ship, and took up his 
abode with Mr. Holmes. On hearing of this circumstance, 
Tamaahmaah, as an encouragement to his settling permanently 
on the island, gave him the daughter of a principal chief for a 

wife, some land, and a number of hogs. S s, however, 

did not appear to relish his situation : he had been too long ac- 
customed to the refinements of civilization at once to adapt 
himself to Indian habits, and received with apathy the fond 
caresses of his olive-coloured spouse. He expressed a desire to 
return in our ship, but the captain's arrangements could not 
permit it. 

While on this subject I may as well mention that the example 

of Wadsworth and S s seemed to be contagious ; for a 

few days after our arrival Mr. Dean, our third officer, had a se- 
rious altercation with the captain, which ended in his quitting the 
ship ; and on its coming to the king's knowledge, he sent for him, 
and told him if he would remain, and take charge of his fleet, 
he would give him a house and lands, plenty of hogs, and a beau- 
tiful daughter of a chief for a wife. Dean told him he had not 
yet made up his mind on the subject, and requested time to con- 
sider the offer. The king did not object, and the interview ended. 
I believe, however, that Dean subsequently quitted the island, 
and returned to New- York. 

Mr. Holmes gave us a plentiful dinner of roast pork, roast dog, 
fowl, ham, fish, wine, and rum, with a profusion of excellent tro- 
pical fruit. A number of native servants attended at table, each 
holding a napkin : they performed their duty in a very expert 
manner, and appeared to be well acquainted with all the domestic 
economy of the table. Their livery was quite uniform, and 



WHITE MEN. 41 

consisted merely of a cincture of country cloth round the waist, 
from which a narrow piece of the same stuff passed between the 
legs, and was fastened to the belt, leaving the remainder of the 
body totally uncovered ! Our noble commander was vice-presi- 
dent, and undertook to carve the dog; which duty he performed 
in a manner quite unique. He was the only one of our party 
who partook of it. The idea of eating so faithful an animal 
without even the plea of necessity effectually prevented any of 
us joining in this part of the feast ; although, to do the meat jus- 
tice, it really looked very well when roasted. The islanders 
esteem it the greatest luxury they possess ; and no one under 
the dignity of an eree of the first class is permitted to partake 
of this delicious food. However singular their taste may be 
regarded in this respect by modern civilization, my classical read- 
ers may recollect that the ancients reckoned dogs excellent eat- 
ing, particularly when young and fat ; and we have the authority 
of Hippocrates for saying that their flesh is equal to pork or mut- 
ton : he also adds, that the flesh of a grown dog is both whole- 
some and strengthening, and that of puppies relaxing. The Ro- 
mans, too, highly admired these animals as an article of food, and 
thought them a supper in which the gods themselves would have 
delighted ! 

Independently of the white men whose names I have men- 
tioned, there were about fourteen others, belonging to all nations, 
the majority of whom were convicts who had effected their 
escape from Botany Bay, and were held in no estimation by the 
natives. They are supremely indolent, and rum and women 
seemed to constitute their only enjoyment. 

On the 29th we made an excursion into the interior with 
Davis. His gardens were extensive, and pleasantly situated at 
the foot of the hills, between four and five miles from Honaroora. 
They were laid out with taste, and kept in excellent order. Ex- 
clusive of the indigenous productions of the country, with which 
they were plentifully stocked, he planted a few years before 
some Irish potatoes, and the crop more than equalled his expec- 
tations. We also observed some prime plantations of sugar- 
cane. A few of those we measured had fourteen feet eatable, 
and were one foot in circumference, which, I am informed, far 
exceeds the best Jamaica canes. The climate of the Sandwich 
Islands is, however, more propitious to the growth of the cane 
than that of the West Indies, at which latter place it has, besides, 
many enemies to encounter which are strangers to the islands 
in the Pacific ; such as monkeys, ants, bugs, the blast, <fec, one or 
other of which often destroys the fairest hopes of the planter. 
The islanders distil an inferior spirit from it, which the resident 
white people have dignified by the title of " country rum" It 

E 



42 king's gardens — FOOT races. 

is weak, and has a smoky, insipid taste, and does not produce in 
toxication except taken in large quantities. 

On our way back we visited the king's gardens, which were 
contiguous to Davis's. They were much more extensive than 
his, although far inferior in neatness, and contained nothing par- 
ticularly deserving notice. Davis was the only white man who 
superintended his own plantations : the others were left to the 
management of their servants, and were seldom visited by the 
proprietors ; and as he was a good practical agriculturist, his 
gardens were superior to any we saw on the island. Jn the 
course of this tour we did not observe a spot that could be turned 
to advantage left unimproved. The country all around the 
bay exhibits the highest state of cultivation, and presents at one 
view a continued range of picturesque plantations, intersected 
by small canals, and varied by groves of cocoanut-trees ; the 
whole bounded on the background by gently sloping hills, and 
in the front by the ocean. We returned late in the evening, 
highly delighted with our day's excursion, and sat down to an 
excellent dinner prepared for us by the worthy Cambrian, in 
whose hospitable mansion \\c spent the night. 

On the 30th we were present at a grand pedestrian racing 
match, between Krikapooree, the king's nephew, and an Ameri- 
can black named Anderson, who was his armourer : the latter 
won, after a well contested struggle. The race-course presented 
a novel and striking appearance. At the upper end was erected 
a covered platform about twenty feet from the ground, on 
which the king sat cross-legged, and without any covering what- 
ever, save the waistband commonly worn by the natives : his 
guards, armed with muskets, paraded around the platform ; 
while on each side, and close to the guards, were assembled 
an immense concourse of natives of all classes, mingled together 
without any regard to rank, age, or sex. The two favourite 
queens were richly dressed : one wore a light-blue satin gown, 
trimmed with broad gold lace ; the other had on a cream-coloured 
riding-habit of cassimere, ornamented with silver lace, and a 
profusion of sugar-loaf buttons, &c. These dresses were made 
for them in England, fitted them admirably, and set off their 
persons to great advantage. They walked through the crowd 
along with several chiefs' wives, and seemed in a high degree to 
enjoy the bustling scene before them. Betting was very spirited 
on the issue of the race. Money of course was out of the 
question ; but among the lower classes its place was supplied 
by axes, beads, knives, scissors, handkerchiefs, and various kinds 
of trinkets ; and among the erees of the first and second grades 
we could distinguish scarlet and blue cloths, silks, Chinese shawls, 
calicoes, ribands, &c. Several quarrels occurred among the 



SUMMARY JUSTICE THROWING THE SPEAR. 43 

men, which were settled, a VAnglaise, by the fist. One of the 
natives had a dispute about a bet with an English sailor, who 
had been left here a short time before by his captain, for mutiny. 
The Indian felt he was right, and refused to yield to the chicanery 
of the sailor, who in order to intimidate him, drew from his 
pocket a small pistol, which he cocked, and presented in a men- 
acing manner at the islander's breast, swearing if he did not 
submit he would shoot him : this however was disregarded by 
the other, who seemed determined not to flinch ; but the king, 
who had observed the whole transaction from his elevated posi- 
tion, ordered the sailor to be brought up to him, which was in- 
stantly complied with. He then took the pistol, and delivered 
it to one of his attendants to be placed in the royal armory ; 
and addressing the sailor, told him the only punishment he 
should then inflict on him would be the forfeiture of the pistol ; 
but in case he ever offended in the same manner again, he would 
have him put to death. AVe were quite delighted with this sum- 
mary administration of justice, for the sailor appeared to be a 
quarrelsome rascal, and bore an infamous character among his 
associates. 

After the race was over, several wrestling and boxing matches 
took place, on which there was also considerable betting. Some 
of our party, who were amateur pugilists, declared their style of 
hitting to be admirable ; but as 1 unfortunately never studied 
the noble science of self-defence, I am quite incompetent to 
hazard an opinion on the subject. I will however say, that no 
unfair play was used, and that no blow was struck while a man 
was down. At the termination of these encounters a large space 
was formed, for two natives to display their skill in throwing the 
spear. A full account of this wonderful performance is given in 
Cook's Voyages ; and I can only add, that the amazing activity 
evinced in avoiding each other's weapons, by leaping to the 
right or left, or allowing them to pass under their arms, between 
their legs, &c. ; and their surprising dexterity and self-possession 
in a situation in which a European would be transfixed ere he 
had time to look about him, must be seen to be credited. This 
exercise forms the amusement of their earliest years, and is the 
Tie plus ultra of their education. No islander can take a wife 
until he is able to withstand the attacks of any old warrior 
whom the chief of his tribe may appoint to try him ; so that 
this condemnation to celibacy, among a people so notoriously 
amorous, contributes, I should imagine, more than any other 
cause, to the wonderful perfection at which they have arrived in 
this exercise. 

In front of the royal residence there are planted thirty pieces 
of cannon ; fifteen on each side ; chiefly six and nine pounders 



44 MOURNING FOR A CHIEF'S WIFE — BILLY PITT, &C. 

a body-guard of handsome athletic young men are stationed 
close to the house ; two of whom are placed as sentinels at the 
door, and are relieved with as much regularity as at any garrison 
in England. In the daytime their muskets generally remain 
piled before the door, but are taken in at night. These gardes- 
du-corps have no particular dress to distinguish them from civil- 
ians ; and after the amusements just, mentioned had ended, the 
king ordered them to go through the manual and platoon exer- 
cises ; which, considering the limited means they have had for 
learning, they performed with tolerable precision. 

Shortly after quitting this noisy and bustling scene of mirth 
and festivity, we were attracted by the sounds of mourning 
voices, to a large house in a retired corner of the village ; in 
front of which sat eight women, in a circle, all in a state of intoxi- 
cation. At times their voices died away to a low mournful tone ; 
when, suddenly changing, they vented the wildest and most 
frantic cries, tearing their hair, beating their breasts, and gnawing 
the ends of their fingers : in the intervals they moistened their 
parched throats from a bottle which was passed round from one 
to the other ; and after all had partaken of the libation, they re- 
newed their cries with redoubled vigour. Their hanging breasts, 
dishevelled hair, and fiery eyes, presented more the appearance 
of furies than of human beings ; and we were at first afraid to 
approach them, apprehensive of an attack in the height of one 
of their paroxysms. We were told, however, there was no dan- 
ger, and they would injure no one save themselves. On inquiry, 
we ascertained that the dead body of a chief's wife of the 
second class lay in an adjoining house, and that these women 
were her friends and relatives mourning her death. This cere- 
mony, although possessing a degree of rude lachrymose comi- 
cality, had nothing peculiarly interesting, and we quickly left the 
scene. 

Several of the chiefs have punctured on their arms the 
names of celebrated English and American statesmen, cap- 
tains of ships, &c. At the race-course I observed Billy Pitt, 
George Washington, and Billy Cobbett, walking together in the 
most familiar manner, and apparently engaged in confidential 
conversation ; while in the centre of another group, Charley 
Fox, Thomas Jefferson, James Madison, Bonaparte, and Tom 
Paine, were to be seen on equally friendly terms with each 
other. They seem to be proud of these names, and generally 
prefer them to their own. Krimacoo, the prime minister, is 
called Billy Pitt, from the great influence he possesses. He is 
consulted by the king on all subjects of importance ; and in 
cases of particular emergency, Mr. Holmes is sent for to give 
his advice. 



TAMAAIIMAAII TIIE EOORANEE. 45 



CHAPTER III. 

Tamaahmaah — The Eooranee — Curious custom — Fickleness in dress — Cha- 
racter of natives — Important position of the islands — Cow hunting — Com- 
plete our supplies — Take a number of natives — Departure — New discovery 
— Arrival at the Columbia. 

From this period until our departure we were honoured with 
several visits from the royal family, principally connected with 
the business of procuring our supplies. The king was a hard 
bargain maker, and although he had several pipes of Madeira in 
his stores, he would not barter a single article until he obtained a 
quarter-cask of that wine, of which he was passionately fond. 
He was by no means as generous as many of his subjects, and 
he seldom committed an act of liberality without having a 
particular object in view. He had upwards of forty small 
schooners built by the natives, which were quite useless to 
him from their ignorance of navigation ; and when he made the 
presents which I have already mentioned to the officers who 
had quarrelled with their captains, he had in view their settling 
on the island, and availing himself of their services in teaching 
the natives to navigate these vessels. The taboos of Tamaah- 
maah were often influenced by his dreams ; one of which gave 
rise, while we remained here, to an extraordinaiy proclamation, 
which ordered, that during the space of one day, " no native 
should leave the island ; and that no dogs should bark, hogs 
grunt, or cocks crow !" This whimsical prohibition was strictly 
complied with by the islanders ; but I need scarcely state that 
the three last-mentioned classes of his majesty's subjects did not 
yield it the same ready obedience. This was called a dreaming 
taboo, to distinguish it from the established ones, which occur at 
stated periods, and are regulated by the high-priest. 

At this time Tamaahmaah had only three children living, two 
sons and one daughter. They were rather homely in their 
appearance, and afforded a bad specimen of royal beauty. The 
eldest son was about twenty years of age, and was called the 
Eooranee. He possessed considerable authority, and was more 
feared than his father, though not so much beloved. The follow- 
ing anecdote will show the dread in which he was held by the 
natives. Some of the men engaged in the Company's employ- 
ment had received permission to spend a day on shore : as they 
did not return that night, I accompanied Mr. Clarke the following 
morning in search of them ; and after wandering about for some 
time we discovered the party descending a hill near the village, 



46 THE EOORANEE. 

each with a lass under his arm, their hats decorated with flowers, 
ribands, and handkerchiefs, and a fifer and fiddler at their head, 
playing away merrily. They were all nearly " half-seas over," 
and were on their way to the ship when they perceived us. 
They insisted in an humble good-natured manner on our taking 
the lead ; and as we were anxious to get them on board, we 
accordingly joined them, and marched on at their head. We 
had not proceeded far when the Eooranee met us, and he ap- 
peared so much pleased with the procession that he fell into the 
ranks. As we approached the wharf, several of the natives, who 
had been drawn by the sound of the music to the party, retired 
on seeing the young prince ; but one unfortunate rascal, who was 
quite drunk, annoyed us as we passed him, by pushing us and 
pulling our clothes ; and as the king's son was dressed like a 
European, he treated him in the same manner ; but I never saw 
consternation so strongly depicted as when the poor wretch 
looked up, and beheld the frowning countenance of the dreaded 
Eooranee : the effect was instantaneous ; he fell prostrate, as if 
thunderstruck, and remained perfectly motionless until we lost 
sight of him. We however did not part with the prince until 
he had promised that no punishment should be inflicted on the 
offending islander. 

The male branches of the royal family are held in peculiar 
veneration, more particularly their heads. No individual, with 
the exception of the domestics specially appointed for that pur- 
pose, is permitted to touch that part of their sacred person, or 
any covering that has ever been on it, upon pain of death. My 
ignorance of this law was near embroiling me in a serious 
scrape. A few days after our arrival, while strolling on the 
outskirts of the village, I observed an individual walking before 
me dressed in a handsome green frockcoat, well-made panta- 
loons, and Hessian boots, followed by a native carrying the tail 
of a white cow, which he used in driving away the flies that 
annoyed his master. As I was given to understand that I had 
been introduced to all the white men of respectability on the 
island, I felt anxious to ascertain who this important personage 
was, and therefore took a circuitous turn in order to have a front 
view of him. It was the Eooranee. He called me to him, and 
we sat down under the shade of some plantain-trees. He then 
began to examine my clothes very minutely, and took off my 
hat, which was a handsome one of Portuguese willow. While 
this examination was going on, I felt a desire to look at his, 
which was of a peculiarly fine texture, and therefore uncovered 
the head of his highness with as little ceremony as he had 
observed towards me ; but I had scarcely touched the forbidden 
covering when I received a warm soufflet on the right cheek 



HEATH OF THli KLVG. 47 

from the attendant. Not knowing the cause of this aggression, 
I determined on instant retaliation, and seizing a stone, was in 
the act of hurling it at the fellow's head, when my arm was 
arrested by the Eoorancc, who begged of me, in broken Eng- 
lish, to desist, and at the same time turned to his domestic, whom 
he reprimanded with marks of evident displeasure, after which 
he ordered him to retire. 

While this was going on I observed Anderson the armourer 
pass, to whom I related the circumstance. The king's son then 
spoke to him for some time, after which Anderson told me that if 
any islander had committed such an offence, instant death would 
have followed ; and added, that the prince pegged him to assure 
me that he deeply regretted the conduct of his domestic, who 
should have distinguished between a stranger and a native, and 
that he had dismissed him with disgrace. When Anderson had 
finished, the Eooranee grasped my hand in the most friendly 
manner ; and as I felt satisfied with the explanation he had given, 
iYeturned its pressure with equal warmth. At this period the 
resident white people looked to his succession with considerable 
apprehension, as he was supposed to entertain views hostile to 
their interests. They might have been led to form this conclu- 
sion from his distant habits, and capricious tyranny towards his 
immediate followers ; but I am happy to state their fears were 
groundless ; for on his accession to the supreme power at his 
father's death, he treated them with marked indulgence, and held 
out the greatest encouragement to white people to settle on the 
island. The day after the circumstance above detailed I met 
him near the king's house in a state of nudity, conversing with 
some of the guards, and the same evening I again saw him in 
the loose light dress of a West India planter. His father and 
himself were very fickle in their clothing. I saw the old man 
one day in the full dress of an English general, which had been 
sent to him by his late majesty, George III. ; but he felt so awk- 
ward in the cocked-hat, boots, &c, that he quickly got rid of 
them, and a few hours afterward we saw him lounging about 
the village, sans hat, sans coat, sans shirt, sans culottes, sans 
every thing ! On the death of the old king the Eooranee suc- 
ceeded by the title of Tamaahmaah the Second.* At the 
period of our visit they knew nothing of the Christian reli- 
gion ; and the white professors of it who were resident among 
them were badly calculated to inculcate its divine precepts. 
Since then, however, thanks to the indefatigable and praise- 
worthy exertions of the missionaries, this rude, but noble-hearted 

* This unfortunate prince is the same who, with his young queen, lately fell 
victims to misjudged British hospitality, joined to a climate to which they were 
unaccustomed. 



48 CHARACTER OF THE NATIVES. 

race of people, have been rescued from their diabolical super- 
stitions, and the greater part of them now enjoy the blessings of 
Christianity. 

Cook, Vancouver, Perouse, and others, have already written 
so ably on the manners, customs, amusements, laws, religion, 
and natural productions of these islands, that I might very pro- 
bably subject myself to the charge of plagiarism, or book- 
making, if I touched on them. ■ To those therefore who feel 
anxious for further information on these subjects, I would recom- 
mend the above authorities, in which they will have their 
curiosity amply gratified. • 

The vice of thieving, attributed to the male inhabitants, is 
rather exaggerated. It is certainly true that numbers of those 
who visit trading ships are not scrupulous in appropriating to 
their own use every trifling article on which they can conve- 
niently lay their hands ; but it should be observed they do not 
consider such abstractions in the same light as if they robbed 
each other. This circumstance I think it necessary to mention, 
without attempting to justify it ; for were we to consider all their 
petty thefts in the same point of view that we are accustomed 
to regard such offences in civilized countries, we should form a 
very poor opinion of their honesty. 

The women, too, have been generally accused of lascivious- 
ness ; but from what I saw, joined to the information I obtained, 
I am induced to think the charge too general. It must, indeed, 
be admitted, that the deportment of those who are in the habit 
of frequenting trading ships is not calculated to impress a 
stranger with a high idea of their virtue : but why make the 
censure general ? If a native of Owhyee were to form his 
opinion of the morality of our countrywomen from the disgusting 
conduct of the unfortunate females who crowd our seaports and 
ships, I should imagine he would entertain a very poor estimate 
of English chastity. In the interior of the islands, and at a dis- 
tance from seaports, I am informed that in the relative situations 
of wife and mother, their conduct is irreproachable. It is true 
that in the places at which ships are accustomed to touch, a uni- 
versal depravity seems to pervade all classes ; for it is no uncom- 
mon sight to see parents bring their daughters, brothers their 
sisters, and husbands their wives, to earn the wages of prosti- 
tution. These vices cannot, I fear, be totally eradicated ; but it 
is pleasing to learn, that through the active agency of the mission- 
aries, their frightful predominancy has been greatly diminished. 
In other respects, the natives are brave, active, hospitable, true 
to their word, confiding, cleanly in their domestic economy, 
easily satisfied at their meals, obedient to proper authority, ex- 
cellent agriculturists, quick in learning, with an aptitude for im- 



POSITION OF THE ISLANDS. 41* 

provcnient that is really astonishing; and on the whole I would 
say that their character presents a fairer held lor success to the 
exertions of the moral cultivator than that of any untutored 
people whom I ever met. 

Recent events seem destined to place the Sandwich Islands in 
a much more important situation on the political map of the 
world than they occupied fifteen or twenty years ago. While 
Spain had possession of Mexico, California, and the southern 
continent, they were seldom visited but by fur traders, for the 
purpose of refitting, or obtaining fresh provisions ; and were 
regarded by the world more as objects of curiosity than as places 
from which any political advantages were likely to be derived. 
But now that the Mexicans and Southern Americans have suc- 
ceeded in emancipating themselves from the slothful despotism 
of their ancient rulers, the native energies of their character will 
shortly begin to develop themselves ; and uncontrolled by the 
trammels which so long fettered their commercial prosperity, a 
few years may see their fleets, in imitation of their bold and en- 
terprising brethren of the northern continent, ploughing their 
way through the Pacific, and, in exchange for their precious 
metals, bringing back to their country the luxurious productions 
of China and the Indies. The Sandwich Islands are nearly 
equidistant from the western coast of Mexico and the eastern 
boundaries of China, and consequently lie nearly in the track of 
vessels passing between the two continents. But the circum- 
stance of all others calculated to raise them to the highest degree 
of importance, is the stupendous enterprise lately set on foot of 
forming a junction between the Pacific and Atlantic, by cutting 
a canal through the Isthmus of Darien. If this magnificent 
undertaking succeed, the long and dangerous voyages round 
Cape Horn and the Cape of Good Hope will be avoided, and 
comparatively short and safe passages made to the western coast 
of America, Japan, China, our East Indian possessions, &c. 

In the course of these voyages, particularly to the East, the 
Sandwich Islands must be touched at for fresh supplies, or at 
least closely passed. In either case they will become an impor- 
tant acquisition to a maritime power. With the assistance of 
science they can be rendered impregnable ; and when we take 
into consideration their great natural capabilities of defence, 
their noble harbours, productive soil, and temperate climate, 
joined to the inoffensive deportment of the inhabitants, we may 
safely conclude that their present state of independence will not 
be of long duration. It is probable they will ultimately become 
tributary to Great Britain, Russia, or America ; and in the event 
of war between any of these nations, the power in possession of 
the islands, from their commanding position, will be able during 

F ~ 



50 COW HUNTING. 

the continuation of hostilities not only to control the commerce 
of the Pacific, but also neutralize in a great degree the advan- 
tages likely to be derived from the Grand Junction Canal. 

Several of our domestic quadrupeds are now reared on the 
islands ; such as cows, sheep, goats, and horses. The last are 
brought from California, and are a small hardy race. The cows 
at Woahoo are the descendants of those left there by our navi- 
gators, and are perfectly wild. We purchased two of them from 
the king ; and he ordered upwards of one hundred men of his 
body-guard, with several chiefs, to proceed to the place where 
the animals were grazing, to assist us in catching those we had 
bought. It was situated a few miles from the village, in a hand- 
some valley, studded with cocoanut-trees ; a couple of hundred 
additional natives volunteered to join us. They proceeded cau- 
tiously in the first instance, until they surrounded the herd, which 
they succeeded in driving into an enclosure. One more expert 
than the rest then advanced under the cover of some trees with 
a long rope, at the end of which was a running noose. Having 
quietly waited for some time until a proper opportunity offered, 
he at length threw the rope, and succeeded in catching a young 
cow. On feeling the noose round her neck, she became quite 
furious, and made a desperate plunge at him, which he skilfully 
avoided by running up a cocoanut-tree ; having previously fast- 
ened one end of the rope round the trunk. We had intrenched 
ourselves with the chiefs behind a stone wall, close to the herd ; 
and being apprehensive that the captive might break loose, we 
fired and shot her. Upon hearing the report, the herd rushed 
furiously out of the enclosure and ran at the natives ; but as 
they had anticipated such a result, each man secured a retreat 
behind a tree ; and in a moment after the furious animals had 
gained their freedom three hundred cocoanut-trees might have 
been seen, each manned with a native*, who looked down with 
the full confidence of security on the enraged herd below. 
Finding it impossible to catch another, we were obliged to fire 
among them, and killed a second. A few shots without ball 
were then discharged, which drove them to their own pasture, 
and enabled the natives to descend. The king preserved these 
cattle for the purpose of bartering with ships touching there for 
provisions ; and although he killed none for the royal table, he 
very condescendingly accepted from us a present of a sirloin. 

As we intended to engage some of the natives for the Com- 
pany's service at the Columbia, and as the captain also required 
some to assist in working the ship (several of the crew being 
indifferent sailors), he demanded permission from Tamaahmaah 
to engage the number that should be deemed necessary : this 
was at once granted ; and Messrs. Holmes and Maninna were 



COMPLETION OF STORES DISCOVERY. 51 

requested to act as recruiting sergeants on the occasion, which 
duty they kindly undertook to perform. On the intelligence 
being announced, the vessel was crowded with numbers, all 
offering to " take on." With the assistance of the above gentle- 
men we selected twenty-six of the most able-bodied of these 
volunteers : sixteen for the Company's service, and ten for the 
ship's. We agreed to pay each man ten dollars a month, and a 
suit of clothes annually. An old experienced islander, who 
was called Boatswain Tom, and who had made several voyages 
both to Europe and America, was engaged to command them : 
he got fifteen dollars a month, and was to have the sole control 
of his countrymen. Several of the females also volunteered to 
accompany us, but wc were obliged to decline their kind offers. 
Mr. Wadsworth, of whom I have already spoken, was also 
engaged for the Company's service, to act as an officer on sea or 
land, as occasion should require. He brought his lady with 
him, not being accustomed, as he declared, to live in a state of 
single blessedness. 

On the 5th of April we got all our supplies on board. They 
consisted of sixty hogs, two boats full of sugarcane to feed 
them, some thousand cocoanuts, with as much bananas, plan- 
tains, taro, melons, &c, as could be conveniently stowed in the 
ship. The same evening we took leave of the king and royal 
family, and bade adieu to our kind white friends ; after which 
we embarked ; and on the following morning, Tuesday, April 
the Gth, we weighed anchor and set sail for the Columbia. 
Krikapooree, the king's nephew, and several young chiefs, 
accompanied us three or four leagues from land, and took leave 
of us with tears in their eyes. The addition we received to our 
numbers in live-stock, joined to the cargo of fruit, &c, lumbered 
our deck greatly and annoyed the crew in working the ship. 
When any number of the natives were wanted to perform a par- 
ticular duty, word was passed to Boatswain Tom ; who, to do 
him justice, betrayed none of the softer feelings of national par- 
tiality to his countrymen. The moment he gave " the dreadful 
word" it was followed by a horrid yell ; and with a rope's end 
he laid on the back and shoulders of every poor devil who did 
not happen to be as alert as he wished, accompanied by a laugh- 
able melange of curses in broken English, and imprecations in 
his own language. 

We had tolerably good easterly breezes, and nothing particu- 
lar occurred until the 18th, at four p. m., when a man ahead cried 
out "Land on the weather-bow!" As we were then not more 
than half-way between the islands and the American continent, 
we eagerly rushed on deck to feast our eyes with a view of our 
new discovery. 



52 DISCOVERY — DISAPPOINTMENT. 

After looking at it for some time very attentively through his 
glass, the captain pronounced it to be an island, with a dark-brown 
soil, and apparently destitute of vegetation; and added, with 
marks of evident exultation, that he always felt certain we 
should fall in with unknown islands in these latitudes (about 35° 
north); and in that expectation had diverged materially from the 
usual course of vessels proceeding to the North-west Coast. We 
now sounded, but got no bottom with one hundred fathoms: and 
while this was going on we were all busy in forming conjectures 
respecting this terra incognita. The first thing to be decided on 
was the name. One thought that Mr. Astor, being the owner of 
the ship, and the founder of the company, had the best claim, 
and therefore moved that it be called "Aster's Island:" this having 
been seconded, an amendment was moved by another person, 
who argued that the ship had a prior right to the honour, 
and stated he would have it called "Beaver Island :" the amend- 
ment having been seconded, was about to be put, when the 
captain declared that, fond as he was of his ship, and highly 
as he respected his owner, he thought the claims of their 
President superior to either, and that he would therefore, with- 
out consulting the wishes of any one, call it "Madison's Island." 
Although there were few admirers of the president on board, 
the captain's decision settled the controversy ; for on such occa- 
sions he is always the high-priest. Mr. Clarke said, if it proved 
anywise fruitful, he would colonize it, and appoint Wadsworth, 
with his island beauty, king and queen. Some hoped the 
inhabitants would not be afraid of white men; while others 
cursed the inhabitants, particularly the females, and expressed a 
wish that the new discovery would contain some cooling simples. 
In the mean time, we kept standing under easy sail for this un- 
known paradise; but in proportion as we advanced the hills 
seemed to ascend, and blend their craggy summits with the 
passing clouds : a pale bright opening appeared to divide the 
land: and the sad conviction was at length forced on us, that 
Madison's Island was based on a nebulous foundation: in fact, it 
turned out what sailors call " a Cape Flyaway island ;" and all 
our glorious speculations dissolved literally in nubibus. 

This disappointment chagrined us much; but none felt it more 
sensibly than the captain, w T ho was quite chapfallen on the occa- 
sion. However, on the 1st of May, we made the real terra firma 
in lat. 41° N., Cape Orford in sight. We coasted along-shore 
until the 5th, when we had the happiness of beholding the 
entrance of the long-wished-for Columbia, which empties itself 
into the Pacific in lat. 46" 19' N., and long. 124° W. Light baf- 
fling winds, joined to the captain's timidity, obliged us to stand 
off and on until the 8th, on which day we descried a white flag 



VISITS FROM SHORE. 53 

hoisted on Cape Disappointment, the northern extremity of the 
land at the entrance of the river. A large fire was also kept 
burning on the cape all night, which served as a beacon. A dan- 
gerous bar runs across the mouth of the Columbia; the channel 
for crossing it is on the northern side close to the cape, and is 
very narrow, and from thence to the opposite point on the south- 
ern side, which is called Point Adams, extends a chain or reef 
of rocks and sandbanks, over which the dreadful roaring of the 
mighty waters of the Columbia, in forcing their passage to the 
ocean, is heard for miles distant. 

Early on the morning of the 9th, Mr. Rhodes was ordered out 
in the cutter, on the perilous duty of sounding the channel of the 
bar, and placing the buoys necessary for the safe guidance of the 
ship. While he was performing this duty we fired several guns; 
and, about ten o'clock in the morning, we were delighted with 
hearing the report of three cannon from the shore in answer to 
ours. Towards noon an Indian canoe was discovered making for 
us, and a few moments after a barge was perceived following it. 
Various were the hopes and fears by which we were agitated, as 
we waited in anxious expectation the arrival of the strangers from 
whom we were to learn the fate of our predecessors, and of the 
party who had crossed the continent. Vague rumours had 
reached the Sandwich Islands from a coasting vessel, that the 
Tonquin had been cut off by the Indians, and every soul on board 
destroyed ; and, since we came in sight of the river, the captain's 
ominous forebodings had almost prepared the weaker part of our 
people to hear that some dreadful fatality had befallen our infant 
establishment. Not even the sound of the cannon, and the sight 
of the flag and fire on the cape were proofs strong enough to 
shake his doubts. "An old bird was not to be caught with 
chaff :" he was too well acquainted with Indian cunning and 
treachery to be deceived by such appearances. It was possible 
enough that the savages might have surprised the fort, murdered 
its inmates, seized the property, fired the cannon to induce us to 
cross the bar, which, when once effected, they could easily cut 
us off before we could get out again. He even carried his cau- 
tion so far as to order a party of armed men to be in readiness 
to receive our visiters. The canoe arrived first alongside : in it 
was an old Indian, blind of an eye, who appeared to be a chief, 
with six others, nearly naked, and the most repulsive-looking 
beings that ever disgraced the fair form of humanity. The only 
intelligence we could obtain from them was, that the people in 
the barge were white like ourselves, and had a house on shore. 
A few minutes afterward it came alongside, and dissipated all 
our fearful dreams of murder, &c, and we had the delightful, the 
inexpressible pleasure of shaking hands with Messrs. Duncan 



54 LANDING. 

M'Dougall and Donald M'Lennan ; the former a partner, and 
the latter a clerk of the Company, with eight Canadian boat- 
men. After our congratulations were over, they informed us, 
that on receiving intelligence the day before from the Indians 
that a ship was off the river, they came down from the fort, a 
distance of twelve miles, to Cape Disappointment, on which they 
hoisted the flag we had seen, and set fire to several trees to serve 
in lieu of a lighthouse. 

The tide was now making in, and as Mr. Rhodes had returned 
from placing the buoys, Mr. M'Lennan, who was well acquainted 
with the channel, took charge of the ship as pilot; and at half- 
past two p. M., we crossed the bar, on which we struck twice 
without sustaining any injury ; shortly after which we dropped 
anchor in Baker's Bay, after a tedious voyage of six months and 
twenty-two days. Mr. M'Dougall informed us that the one-eyed 
Indian who had preceded him in the canoe was the principal 
chief of the Chinook nation, who reside on the northern side of 
the river near its mouth ; that his name was Comcomly, and that 
he was much attached to the whites : we therefore made him a 
present, and gave some trifling articles to his attendants, after 
which they departed. 



CHAPTER IV. 



Account of the Tonquin — Loss of her chief mate, seven men, and two boats 
— Extraordinary escape of Weekes — Erection of Astoria — Mr. Thompson 
' of the N. W. Company — Arrival of Messrs. Hunt and Mackenzie, and 
sketch of their journey over-land. 

After the vessel was securely moored, Captain Sowles joined 
our party, and we took our leave of the good ship Beaver ; in 
which, after a voyage of six months and three weeks, we had 
travelled upwards of twenty thousand miles. 

In the evening we arrived at the Company's establishment, 
which was called Fort Astoria, in honour of Mr. Astor. Here 
we found five proprietors, nine clerks, and ninety artisans and 
canoe-men, or, as they are commonly called in the Indian coun- 
try, voyageurs. We brought an addition of thirty-six, including 
the islanders; so that our muster-roll, including officers, &c. 
amounted to one hundred and forty men. 

The accounts which we received from our friends at Astoria 
were highly discouraging as to our future prospects, and deeply 
melancholy as to the past. But that my readers may under- 



ACCOUNT OF THE TONQUIX. 55 

stand the situation of affairs at the time of our arrival, it will he 
necessary to take a short retrospect of the transactions that 
occurred antecedent to that period. 

The ship Tonquin,to which 1 have alluded in the introduction, 
sailed from New- York on the Gth September, 1810. She was 
commanded by Captain Jonathan Thorn, a gentleman who had 
been formerly a first lieutenant in the navy of the United States ; 
and while in that service, during their short war with Algiers, 
had distinguished himself as a bold and daring officer. His 
manners were harsh and arbitrary, with a strong tincture of that 
peculiar species of American amor patrice, the principal ingre- 
dient of which is a marked antipathy to Great Britain and its 
subjects. 

Four partners, namely, Messrs. Alexander M'Kay, Duncan 
M'Dougall, David and Robert Stuart, embarked in her, with 
eight clerks, and a number of artisans and voyageurs, all destined 
for the Company's establishment at the Columbia. Those gen- 
tlemen were all British subjects ; and, although engaged with 
Americans in a commercial speculation, and sailing under the 
flag of the United States, were sincerely attached to their king and 
the country of their birth. Their patriotism was no recommen- 
dation to Captain Thorn, who adopted every means in his power 
to annoy and thwart them. To any person who has been at sea 
it is unnecessary to mention how easy it is for one of those nau- 
tical despots to play the tyrant, and the facilities which their situa- 
tion affords, and of which they too often avail themselves, of 
harassing every one who is not slavishly subservient to their 
wishes. 

Messrs. M'Kay, M'Dougall, and the Stuarts, had too much 
Highland blood in their veins to submit patiently to the haughty 
and uncivil treatment of the captain ; and the consequence was, 
a series of quarrels and disagreeable recriminations, not merely 
in the cabin, but on the quarter-deck. 

They touched at the Falkland Islands for a supply of water ; 
and while Mr. David Stuart and Mr.Franchere,with a party, were 
on shore, the captain, without any previous intimation, suddenly 
gave orders to weigh anchor, and stood out to sea, leaving the 
party on one of the most desert and uninhabitable islands in the 
world. The gentlemen on board expostulated in vain against 
this act of tyrannic cruelty, when Mr. Robert Stuart, nephew to 
the gentleman who had been left on shore, seized a brace of pis- 
tols, and presenting one at the captain's head, threatened to blow 
out his brains if he did not instantly order the ship to lay to 
and wait for his uncle's party. Most part of the crew and "offi- 
cers witnessed this scene ; and as they appeared to sympathize 
deeply with young Stuart, the captain thought it more prudent 



5G 



MELANCHOLY ACCIDENT. 



to submit, and gave orders accordingly to shorten sail and wait 
the arrival of Mr. Stuart's party. 

The determined resolution evinced by young Mr. Stuart on 
this occasion, and the apparent apathy of his officers, who 
stood quietly by while a pistol was presented to his head, were 
never forgiven by Captain Thorn. 

The Tonquin doubled Cape Horn in safety, and arrived in 
the middle of February at the Sandwich Islands, from which 
place they took ten natives for the establishment, and sailed for 
the coast on the 1st of March. 

On the 23d of March they arrived at the mouth of the Co- 
lumbia; and although it blew a stiff breeze, the captain ordered 
Mr. Fox, the chief mate, with two American sailors and two 
Canadian voyageurs, to proceed in the long-boat towards the 
bar, for the purpose of sounding the channel. 

From the threatening appearance of the sky and the violence 
of the gale, Mr. M'Kay thought this a most hazardous under- 
taking, and implored Captain Thorn to postpone it until the 
weather became more moderate. His orders however were 
peremptory ; and finding all remonstrance useless, Mr. Fox 
with his little crew embarked, and proceeded to fulfil his 
instructions. That unfortunate officer seemed to have a pre- 
sentiment of his approaching fate, for on quitting the vessel he 
took an affectionate farewell of all his friends ; to some of 
whom he mentioned he was certain they would never see him 
again. His prediction was verified ; but we could never ascer- 
tain correctly the particulars of their fate. It is supposed, 
however, that the tide setting in, joined to the violence of the 
wind, drove the boat among the breakers, where it and its 
unfortunate crew must have been dashed to pieces. 

The ship stood off and on during the 24th, and on the 25th, 
the wind having moderated, she stood in for Cape Disappoint- 
ment. Mr. Aikin, one of the officers, accompanied by Weekes, 
the smith, Coles, the sailmaker, and two Sandwich islanders, 
were sent ahead in the jolly-boat to ascertain the lowest depth 
of water in the channel ; the ship in the mean time following 
after, under easy sail. Aikin reported by signal that there was 
water sufficient ; upon which the captain ordered all sail to be 
crowded, and stood in for the bar. The jolly-boat was now 
ordered to fall back and join the ship : but having unfortunately 
got too far to the southward, it was drawn within the influence 
of the current, and carried with fearful rapidity towards the 
breakers. It passed within pistol shot of the vessel, its devoted 
crew crying out in the wildest accents of despair for assistance. 
This, however, was impossible, for at that moment the Tonquin 
struck on the bar ; and the apprehension of instant destruction 



EXTRAORDINARY ESCAPE OF WEEKES. 57 

precluded the possibility of making any attempt to save the jolly- 
boat, which by this time was carried out ot" sight. The wind 
now moderated to a gentle breeze; but owing to the tide setting 
out strongly, the water became so low that the ship struck seve- 
ral times ; and to add to the horror of their situation, they were 
quickly surrounded by the darkness of night. During an awful 
interval of three hours the sea beat over the vessel ; and at 
times some of the crew imagined they heard the screams of 
their lost companions borne by the night winds over the foaming 
billows of the bar. A little alter twelve o'clock, however, the 
tide set in strongly, with a fresh breeze from the westward ; and 
all hands having set to work, they providentially succeeded in 
extricating themselves from their perilous situation, and worked 
the ship in Baker's Bay, inside Cape Disappointment, where they 
found a safe asylum. It blew a perfect gale the remainder of 
the night. 

On the morning of the 26th some of the natives came on 
board. They appeared to be very friendly, and betrayed no 
symptoms of fear or distrust. Parties were immediately des- 
patched towards the northern shore, and round the cape, in order 
to ascertain, if possible, the fate of the two boats. 

Shortly after one of them returned, accompanied by Weekes, 
who gave the following account of his miraculous escape from a 
watery grave. " When we passed the vessel, the boat, owing 
to the want of a rudder, became quite unmanageable, and not- 
withstanding all our exertions, we were carried into the northern 
edge of the great chain of breakers. The tide and current, 
however, were setting out so strongly that we were absolutely 
carried through the reef without sustaining any injury, but imme- 
diately on the outer edge a heavy sea struck us, and the boat 
was upset. Messrs. Aikin and Coles disappeared at once, and I 
never saw them afterward. On recovering my first shock, I 
found myself close to the Sandwich islanders, who had stripped 
off their clothes with extraordinary despatch. We all seized 
the boat, and after much difficulty succeeded in righting it. We 
then got out a little of the water, which enabled one of the 
islanders to enter the boat, and he quickly bailed out the re- 
mainder. His companion also recovered the oars, and we then 
embarked. I endeavoured to persuade the two poor islanders 
to row, well knowing the exertion would keep them alive ; but 
it was quite useless, they were so spent from fatigue, and be- 
numbed by the cold, that they refused to do any thing, and 
threw themselves down in the boat, apparently resigned to meet 
their fate. I had no notion, however, of giving up my life in 
that manner, and therefore pulled away at the oars with all my 
strength. About midnight, one of mv unfortunate companions 

G 



58 FORT ASTORIA EXCURSION. 

died, and his surviving countryman flung himself on the body, 
from which I found it impossible to dislodge him. I continued 
hard at work during the night, taking care to keep to the north- 
ward of the bar, and at daylight found myself close to a sandy 
beach, on which the surf beat heavily. I was nearly exhausted, 
and therefore determined to run all risks to get ashore. I for- 
tunately succeeded, and ran the boat on the beach. I then 
assisted the islander, who had some signs of life still in him, to 
land ; but the poor fellow was too weak to follow me. I was 
therefore obliged to leave him, and shortly after fell on a well- 
beaten path, which in a few hours brought me in sight of the 
ship, when I met the party who conducted me on board. 
Thanks to the Almighty for my wonderful escape 1" 

The people who went in search of the surviving islander did 
not find him until the following morning, when they discovered 
him in a deplorable state, close to some rocks. They carried 
him to the ship ; and in a few days, by the proper and humane 
treatment of Mr. Franchere, he was perfectly restored to his 
health. 

Some time was occupied after their arrival in looking out for 
a proper place to build their fort ; and at length, on the 12th of 
April, they selected a handsome and commanding situation, called 
Point George, twelve miles from the cape, and on the south 
side of the river. The keel of a schooner of thirty tons' burden 
was also laid at the same time, the skeleton of which had been 
brought out from New- York. 

During the month of May, Messrs. M'Kay, Stuart, Franchere, 
and Matthews made several excursions up the river as far as the 
first rapids, in which they were well received by the natives, 
from whom they collected a quantity of furs. 

It having been arranged that the Tonquin was to make a 
coasting excursion as far as Cook's River, and touch at the vari- 
ous harbours between that place and the Columbia, she weighed 
anchor on the first of June, and dropped down to Baker's Bay. 
Mr. M'Kay, and Mr. Lewis, one of the clerks, embarked in her 
for the purpose of obtaining a correct knowledge of the various 
tribes on the coast, it being intended that after her cruise to the 
northward the ship was to return to the Columbia, take what 
furs they might have purchased during her absence, which the 
captain was to dispose of in Canton, from whence he was to 
return to New- York with a cargo of Chinese goods. 

Mr. Mumford, the chief mate, in consequence of a dispute 
with Captain Thorn, refused to proceed farther with him, and 
was engaged by the Company to take the command of the little 
schooner when finished. 



ARRIVALS NEWS FROM THE INTERIOR. 59 

The Tonquin took her final departure from the Columbia on 
t e 5th of June, with a fair wind, and passed the bar in safety. 

In the month of July, Mr. David Thompson, astronomer to 
the Northwest Company, of which he was also a proprietor, 
arrived with nine men in a canoe at Astoria, from the interior. 
This gentleman came on a voyage of discovery to the Columbia, 
preparatory to the Northwest Company forming a settlement 
at the entrance of the river. He remained at Astoria until the 
latter end of July, when he took his departure for the interior ; 
Mr. David Stuart, with three clerks and a party of Canadians, 
accompanying him, for the purpose of selecting a proper place 
on the upper parts of the river for a trading establishment. 

Early in the month of August a party of Indians from Gray's 
Harbour arrived at the mouth of the Columbia for the purpose 
of fishing. They told the Chinooks that the Tonquin had been 
cut off by one of the northern tribes, and that every soul on 
board had been massacred. This intelligence was not at first 
believed ; but several other rumours of a similar nature having 
reached Astoria, caused considerable uneasiness, particularly as 
the month passed away without any news of a satisfactory 
nature having been received. 

During the month of September, the people at the fort were 
kept in a state of feverish alarm by various reports of an inten- 
tion on the part of the natives to surprise and destroy them. 
October commenced, and the period fixed for the return of the 
Tonquin had long since elapsed, still no intelligence of her arrival, 
with the exception of farther reports of her destruction, accom- 
panied by additional evidence, of a nature so circumstantial as 
to leave little doubt but that some dreadful fatality had occurred. 

On the 5th of October, Messrs. Pillet and M'Lennan, two of 
the clerks who had gone to the interior with Mr. D. Stuart, 
returned to Astoria, accompanied by a free hunter named Bru- 
guier, and two Iroquois hunters. They stated that Mr. Stuart 
had chosen a place for a trading post about seven hundred miles 
up the Columbia, at the mouth of a river called Oakinagan, and 
among a friendly tribe, who appeared to be well furnished with 
beaver. About this period the schooner was completed and 
launched. She was called the Dolly, in honour of Mrs. Astor ; 
and as provisions at the fort became scarce, she was despatched 
up the river for a supply, under the command of Mr. R. Stuart 
and Mr. Mumford. 

The dark and dismal months of November and December 
rolled over their heads without bringing them any certain intel- 
ligence of the Tonquin. During this period it rained incessantly; 
and the Indians had withdrawn themselves from the banks 



60 OVER-LAJSfD JOtJIlNEY. 

of the Columbia to their winter-quarters in the sheltered recesses 
of the forests, and in the vicinity of springs or small rivulets. 

They continued in this state of disagreeable anxiety until the 
18th of January, 1812, when their drooping spirits were some- 
what raised by the arrival of Mr. Donald M'Kenzie, with two 
canoes from the interior. This gentleman was accompanied by 
Mr. M'Lellan, a proprietor, Mr. Read, a clerk, and ten men. He 
had left St. Louis in the month of August, 1810, in company 
with Mr. Hunt. They passed the winter of that year at a place 
called Nadwau, on the banks of the Missouri, where they were 
joined by Messrs. M'Lellan, Crooks, and Miller, three American 
traders, connected with Mr. Astor. 

In the spring of 1811 they ascended the Missouri in two large 
barges, until they arrived on the lands of a powerful tribe 
named the Arikaraws. Here they met a Spanish trader, Mr. 
Manuel Lisa, to whom they sold their barges and a quantity of 
their merchandise. 

Having purchased one hundred and thirty horses from the 
Indians, they set off in the beginning of August on their land 
journey, to cross the Rocky Mountains. Apprehensive of coming 
in contact with the Black Feet, a warlike and savage tribe, who 
have a strong antipathy to the white men, they were obliged to 
proceed as far south as the latitude of 40° ; from whence they 
turned into a north-west course. This brought them to an old 
trading post, situated on the banks of a small river ; and as they 
had no doubt it would bring them to the Columbia, they imme- 
diately set about making canoes for the purpose of descending 
that river. 

Mr. Miller, not liking the aspect of ffairs at this place, 
requested permission to return to the United States, which was 
granted ; and a few men were allowed to accompany him on 
his way back. 

The party, which now consisted of about sixty people, com- 
menced their voyage downwards ; but from the rapidity of the 
current, and the number of dangerous rapids, they determined, 
after having lost one man and a portion of their baggage, to 
abandon such a perilous navigation, and undertake the remainder 
of their journey on foot. 

In pursuance of this resolution they divided into four parties, 
under the commands of Messrs. M'Kenzie, Hunt, M'Lellan, and 
Crooks ; still keeping in view their original intention of follow- 
ing the course of the river. Messrs. M'Kenzie and M'Lellan 
took the right bank, and Messrs. Hunt and Crooks the left. 
They were under a strong impression that a few days would 
bring them to the Columbia, but they were miserably disap- 
pointed. For three weeks they followed the course of the river, 



OVER-LAND JOURNEY. 61 

which was one continued torrent ; and the banks of which, par- 
ticularly the northern, consisted of high precipitous rocks, rising 
abruptly from the water's edge. The greater part of this period 
was one of extreme suffering. Their provisions became shortly 
exhausted, and they were reduced to the necessity of broiling 
even the leather of their shoes to sustain nature : while, to com- 
plete their misfortunes, they were often unable to descend the 
steep declivities^ of the rocks for a drink of the water which 
they saw flowing beneath their feet. 

From the tormenting privations which they experienced in 
following the course of this stream, they called it Mad River ; 
and in speaking of it afterward, the Canadians, from the bitter- 
ness of their recollections, denominated it la maudite riviere 
enragee. Mr. Hunt's party did not suffer so much as those on 
the right bank, in consequence of occasionally meeting some of 
the natives ; who, although they always fled on perceiving them 
left their horses behind. The party were obliged to kill a few 
of these animals, and in payment for them left some goods near 
their owners' huts. 

After a separation of some days the two parties came in sight 
of each other ; and Mr. Hunt had a canoe made out of the skin 
of a horse, in which he sent some meat over to his famishing 
friends. He also suggested the idea of their crossing over 
in the canoe one by one to the south side, where they would at 
all events have a better chance of escaping death by starvation. 
This was readily agreed to ; but the attempt was unfortunately 
unsuccessful. One of the best swimmers embarked in the 
canoe ; but it had scarcely reached the centre of the river when, 
owing to the impetuosity of the current, it upset, and the poor 
voyageur sunk to rise no more. 

Finding the impracticability of their reunion by this means, 
they continued to pursue their respective courses, and in a few 
days after M'Kenzie's party fell on a considerable river, which 
they subsequently ascertained to be Lewis's River. Here they 
met a tribe of friendly Indians, from whom they purchased 
several horses, and with renovated spirits they pursued their 
journey along the banks of the principal river. Among this 
tribe they found a young white man in a state of mental derange- 
ment. He had, however, lucid intervals, and informed them 
that his name was Archibald Petton, and that he was a native 
of Connecticut ; that he had ascended the Missouri with Mr. 
Henry, an American trader, who built the house our people saw 
at the upper part of Mad River ; that about three years ago the 
place was attacked by the savages, who massacred every man 
belonging to the establishment, with the exception of himself; 
and that having escaped unperceived, he wandered about for 



WZ DEPARTURES. 

several weeks, until he met the friendly tribe with whom we 
found him. The dreadful scenes he had witnessed, joined to 
the sufferings he had gone through, produced a partial derange- 
ment of his intellect. His disorder was of a harmless nature ; 
and as it appeared probable that civilized companionship would 
in the course of time restore him to his reason, Mr. M'Kenzie 
very humanely brought him along with the party. 

On arriving at the entrance of Lewis' River, they obtained 
canoes from the natives in exchange for their horses ; and meet- 
ing with no obstruction from thence downwards, arrived at 
Astoria on the 18th of January, 1812. Their concave cheeks, 
protuberant bones, and tattered garments, strongly indicated the 
dreadful extent of their privations ; but their health appeared 
uninjured, and their gastronomic powers unimpaired. 

From the day that the unlucky attempt was made to cross in 
the canoe, Mr. M'Kenzie had seen nothing of Mr. Hunt's party, 
and he was of opinion they would not be able to reach the fort 
until the spring was far advanced. He was however mistaken ; 
for on the 15th of February Mr. Hunt, with thirty men, one 
woman, and two children, arrived at Astoria. 

This gentleman stated that shortly after his last separation 
from the northern party he arrived among a friendly tribe, whose 
village was situated in the plains. They treated him and his 
party with great hospitality; in consequence of which he 
remained ten days with them, for the double purpose of recruit- 
ing his men, and looking for one of his hunters, who had been 
lost for some days. Having received no intelligence of the 
man, Mr. Hunt resumed his journey, leaving Mr. Crooks, with 
five men who were much exhausted, among the Indians, who 
promised to pay every attention to them, and conduct them part 
of the way downwards on their recovery. 

Mr. Hunt in the mean time fell on the Columbia, some 
distance below its junction with Lewis' River; and having also 
obtained canoes, arrived safely on the day above mentioned. 
The corporeal appearance of his party was somewhat superior to 
that of Mr. M'Kenzie's, but their outward habiliments were 
equally ragged. 

The accession of so many hungry stomachs to the half-starved 
garrison at Astoria would have produced serious inconvenience 
had not the fishing season fortunately commenced earlier than 
was anticipated, and supplied them with abundance of a small 
delicious fish resembling pilchard, and which is the same men- 
tioned by Lewis and Clarke as anchovy. 

On the 30th of March, the following departures took place : 
Mr. Read for New York, charged with despatches to Mr. Astor, 
accompanied by Mr. M'Lellan, who quitted the country in 



ACCOUNT OF THE TONQUIN. G3 

disgust. This gentleman had fancied that a fortune was to be 
made with extraordinary celerity on the Columbia ; but finding 
his calculations had exceeded the bounds of probability, he 
preferred renewing his addresses to the fickle jade in a country 
less subject to starvation and fighting. 

Messrs. Farnham and M'Gillis, with a party, also embarked 
for the purpose of proceeding to the head of Mad River, for the 
trading goods which Mr. Hunt had deposited there en cache ; and 
Mr. Robert Stuart set off at the same time with a fresh supply 
for his uncle's establishment at Oakinagan. 



CHAPTER V. 



Particulars of the destruction of the Tonquin and crew — Indians attack 
a party ascending the river — Description of fort, natives, and the country. 

It is now time to return to the Tonquin, of which no news 
had been heard during the winter, with the exception of the 
flying rumours already alluded to. That vessel, as mentioned in 
the preceding chapter, sailed from the Columbia on the 5th of 
June, 1811, on a trading speculation to the northward ; and Mr. 
M'Kay took on board, as an interpreter, a native of Gray's 
Harbour, who was well acquainted with the various dialects of 
the tribes on the coast. From this Indian the following melan- 
choly particulars were learned. 

A few days after their departure from the Columbia they 
anchored opposite a large village, named New Whittij, in the 
vicinity of Nootka, where Mr. M'Kay immediately opened a 
smart trade with the natives. He went on shore with a few 
men ; was received in the most friendly manner, and slept a 
couple of nights at the village. During this period several of 
the natives visited the vessel with furs. The unbending manners 
of the captain were not calculated to win their esteem ; and 
having struck one of their principal men whom he had caught in 
a theft, a conspiracy was formed by the friends of the chief to 
surprise and cut off the vessel. The faithful interpreter, having 
discovered their designs, lost no time in acquainting Mr. M'Kay, 
who instantly hurried on board for the purpose of warning the 
captain of the intended attack. That evening Mr. M'Kay told 
the interpreter that the captain only laughed at the information, 
and said he could never believe that a parcel of lazy, thieving 
Indians would have the courage to attack such a ship as his. The 



64 ATTACK ON THE TONQUIN. 

natives, in the mean time, apprehensive from Mr. M'Kay's 
sudden return that their plans were suspected, visited the ship 
in small numbers, totally unarmed, in order to throw our people 
off their guard. Even the chief who had been struck by Cap- 
tain Thorn, and who was the head of the conspiracy, came on 
board in a manner seemingly friendly, and apparently forgetful 
of the insult he had received. 

Early in the morning of the day previous to that on which 
the ship was to leave New Whitty, a couple of large canoes, each 
containing about twenty men, appeared alongside. They brought 
several small bundles of furs ; and, as the sailors imagined they 
came for the purpose of trading, were allowed to come on deck. 
Shortly after another canoe, with an equal number, arrived also 
with furs ; and it was quickly followed by two others, full of 
men carrying beaver, otter, and other valuable skins. No oppo- 
sition was made to their coming on board ; but the officer of the 
watch perceiving a number of other canoes pushing off, became 
suspicious of their intentions, and warned Captain Thorn of the 
circumstance. He immediately came on the quarter-deck, 
accompanied by Mr. M'Kay and the interpreter. The latter, on 
observing that they all wore short cloaks or mantles of skins, 
which was by no means a general custom, at once knew their 
designs were hostile, and told Mr. M'Kay of his suspicions. 
That gentleman immediately apprized Captain Thorn of the 
circumstances, and begged of him to lose no time in clearing 
the ship of the intruders. This caution was however treated 
lightly by the captain, who remarked, that with the arms they 
had on board they would be more than a match for three times 
the number. The sailors in the mean time had all come on deck, 
which was crowded with the Indians, who completely blocked 
up the passages, and obstructed the men in the performance of 
their various duties. The captain requested them to retire, to 
which they paid no attention. He then told them he was about 
going to sea, and had given orders to the men to raise the anchor ; 
that he hoped they would go away quietly ; but if they refused 
he should be compelled to force their departure. He had 
scarcely finished, when at a signal given by one of the chiefs, a 
loud and frightful yell was heard from the assembled savages, 
who commenced a sudden and simultaneous attack on the officers 
and crew with knives, bludgeons, and short sabres, which they 
had concealed under their robes. 

Mr. M'Kay was one of the first attacked. One Indian gave 
him a severe blow with a bludgeon, which partially stunned him ; 
upon which he was seized by five or six others, who threw him 
overboard into a canoe alongside, where he quickly recovered, 
and was allowed to remain for some time uninjured. 



DESTRUCTION OF THE TONQUIN. 65 

Captain Thorn made an ineffectual attempt to reach the cabin 
for his firearms, but was overpowered by numbers. His only 
weapon was a jack-knife, with which he killed four of his savage 
assailants by ripping up their bellies, and mutilated several others. 
Covered with wounds, and exhausted from the loss of blood, he 
rested himself for a moment by leaning on the tiller wheel, 
when he received a dreadful blow from a weapon called a 
pautumaugan,* on the back part of the head, which felled him 
to the deck. The death-dealing knife fell from his hand ; and his 
savage butchers, after extinguishing the few sparks of life that 
still remained, threw his mangled body overboard. 

On seeing the captain's fate, our informant, who was close 
to him, and who had hitherto escaped uninjured, jumped 
into the water, and was taken into a canoe by some women, 
who partially covered his body with mats. He states that the 
original intention of the enemy was to detain Mr. M'Kay a 
prisoner ; and after securing the vessel, to give him his liberty, 
on obtaining a ransom from Astoria ; but on finding the resist- 
ance made by the captain and crew, the former of whom had 
killed one of the principal chiefs, their love of gain gave way to 
revenge, and they resolved to destroy him. The last time the 
ill-fated gentleman was seen, his head was hanging over the side 
of a canoe, and three savages, armed with pautumaiigans, were 
battering out his brains. 

In the mean time the devoted crew, who had maintained the 
unequal conflict with unparalleled bravery, became gradually 
overpowered. Three of them, John Anderson, the boatswain 
John Weekes, the carpenter, and Stephen Weekes, who had so 
narrowly escaped at the Columbia, succeeded, after a desperate 
struggle, in gaining possession of the cabin, the entrance to 
which they securely fastened inside. The Indians now became 
more cautious, for they well knew there were plenty of firearms 
below ; and they had already experienced enough of the prowess 
of the three men while on deck, and armed only with hand- 
spikes, to dread approaching them while they had more mortal 
weapons at their command. 

Anderson and his two companions seeing their commander 
and the crew dead and dying about them, and that no hope of 
escape remained, and feeling moreover the usclessness of any 
farther opposition, determined on taking a terrible revenge. 
Two of them therefore set about laying a train to the powder 
magazine, while the third addressed some Indians from the 
cabin windows, who were in canoes, and gave them to under- 



* A Bpecics of* half sabre, half club, from two to three feet in lengtl 
inches in breadth, and double edged. 

II 



66 FATE OF THE SURVIVORS. 

stand that if they were permitted to depart unmolested in one 
of the ship's boats, they would give them quiet possession of the 
vessel without firing a shot ; stipulating however that no canoe 
should remain near them while getting into the boat. The 
anxiety of the barbarians to obtain possession of the plunder, 
and their disinclination to risk any more lives, induced them to 
embrace this proposition with eagerness, and the pinnace was 
immediately brought astern. The three heroes having by this 
time perfected their dreadful arrangements, and ascertained that 
no Indian was watching them, gradually lowered themselves 
from the cabin windows into the boat ; and having fired the 
train, quickly pushed off towards the mouth of the harbour, no 
obstacle being interposed to prevent their departure. 

Hundreds of the enemy now rushed on deck to seize the long- 
expected prize, shouting yells of victory ; but their triumph was 
of short duration. Just as they had burst open the cabin door, 
an explosion took place, which in an instant hurled upwards of 
two hundred savages into eternity, and dreadfully injured as many 
more. The interpreter, who had by this time reached land, 
states he saw many mutilated bodies floating near the beach, while 
heads, arms, and legs, together with fragments of the ship, were 
thrown to a considerable distance on the shore. 

The first impression of the survivors was, that the Master of 
Life had sent forth the Evil Spirit from the waters to punish 
them for their cruelty to the white people. This belief, joined 
to the consternation occasioned by the shock, and the reproaches 
and lamentations of the wives and other relatives of the suffer- 
ers, paralyzed for a time the exertions of the savages, and 
favoured the attempt of Anderson and his brave comrades to 
escape. They rowed hard for the mouth of the harbour, with 
the intention, as is supposed, of coasting along the shore to the 
Columbia ; but after passing the bar, a head wind and flowing 
tide drove them back, and compelled them to land late at night 
in a small cove, where they fancied themselves free from danger ; 
and where, weak from the loss of blood, and the harassing 
exertions of the day, they fell into a profound sleep. 

In the mean time the terror of the Indians had in some degree 
subsided, and they quickly discovered that it was by human 
agency so many of their warriors had been destroyed. They 
therefore determined on having the lives of those who caused 
the explosion ; and being aware, from the state of the wind and 
tide, that the boat could not put to sea, a party proceeded after 
dark cautiously along the shore of the bay, until they arrived at 
the spot where their helpless victims lay slumbering. Bleeding 
and exhausted, they opposed but a feeble resistance to their 
savage conquerors ; and about midnight their heroic spirits 
mingled with those of their departed comrades. 



IMUAX ATTACK. 



G7 



Thus perished the last of the gallant crew of the Tonquin : 
and in reflecting on their melancholy fate, it is deeply to be re- 
gretted that there was no person of sufficient influence at Astoria 
to bring about a reconciliation between Captain Thorn and 
Mr. M'Kay ; for were it not for the deplorable hostility and con- 
seqaent want of union that existed between these two brave 
men, it is more than probable this dreadful catastrophe would 
never have occurred.* 

On the morning of the 11th of May, the day after our arrival, 
while walking with some of my companions in front of the fort, 
indulging in gloomy reflections on the fate of the Tonquin, and 
the unpromising appearance of our general affairs, we were 
surprised by the arrival of two canoes with Messrs. Robert 
Stuart, M'Lellan, Reed, and Farnham, together with Messrs. 
David Stuart, and R. Crooks. The unexpected return of the 
four first individuals, who had only left the fort on the 30th 
March, was caused by a serious rencounter which they had with 
the natives in ascending. On arriving at the portage of the falls, 
which is very long and fatiguing, several of the Indians in a friendly 
manner tendered their horses to transport the goods. Mr. 
Stuart, having no suspicion of their dishonesty, gladly accepted 
the offer, and entrusted a few of them with several small pack- 
ets of merchandise to carry. On arriving, however, in a rocky 
and solitary part of the portage, the rascals turned their horses' 
heads into a narrow pathway and galloped off with the goods, 
with which they escaped. Their comrades on foot in the mean 
time crowded about the voyageurs who w T ere carrying the pack- 
ages, and as Mr. Stuart observed the necessity of greater pre- 
caution, he took his post at the upper end of the portage, leaving 
Messrs. Reed and M'Lellan in charge of the rear-guard. Mr. 
Reed was the bearer of the despatches, and had a tin case, in 
which they were contained, flung over his shoulders. Its bright- 
ness attracted the attention of the natives, and they resolved to 
obtain possession of the prize. A group therefore patiently 
watched his motions for some time, until they observed he had 
separated himself from M'Lellan, and gone ahead a short 
distance. The moment they supposed he was alone they sprung 
on him, seized his arms, and succeeded in capturing the tin case 
after a brave resistance, in the course of which he was knocked 
down twice, and nearly killed. Mr. M'Lellan, who had been an 
attentive observer of the whole transaction, instantly fired, and 
one of the robbers fell ; upon which his companions fled, not, 

* From the particular description given by our informant of the dress and 
personal appearance of Anderson and the two Weekes's, we had no doubt of 
their identity. 



68 INDIAN ATTACK. 

however, without securing the plunder. Mr. M'Lellan, imagin- 
ing that Mr. Reed had been killed, immediately joined Mr. 
Stuart, and urged that gentlemen to fly from a place so preg- 
nant with danger. This, however, he refused, until he was 
satisfied respecting Mr. Reed's fate ; and taking a few men with 
him, he repaired towards the spot where Reed had been attacked. 
The latter had in the mean time somewhat recovered from 
the effects of his wounds, and was slowly dragging himself 
along when Mr. Stuart's party came to his assistance, and con- 
ducted him to the upper end of the portage in safety. The 
loss of the despatches determined Mr. Stuart to postpone Mr. 
Reed's journey to New- York, and the whole party proceeded to 
Oakinagan, the post established by Mr. David Stuart. They 
remained here only a few days, and early in May left it on their 
return to Fort Astoria. On their way down, near the entrance 
of the Shoshone river, they fell in with Mr. R. Crooks and a 
Kentucky hunter, named John Day, in a state of miserable des- 
titution. 

I have already mentioned that this gentleman, with five of his 
men, owing to their inability to continue the journey from 
excessive fatigue, had been left by Mr. Hunt among a tribe of 
friendly Indians, supposed to be a branch of the extensive Snake 
nation. Finding, however, that they had nothing to expect from 
the strangers, these savages, shortly after the departure of Mr. 
Hunt, robbed them of every article in their possession, even to 
their shirts, in exchange for which they gave them a few old 
skins to cover their nakedness. 

The miserable party, thus attired, and without any provisions, 
recommenced their journey to the Columbia, on the banks of 
which they arrived a few days previous to the descent of Mr. 
Stuart's party. 

Here was a frightful addition to our stock of disasters. Fight- 
ing, robbery, and starvation in the interior, with drownings, 
massacres, and apprehensions of farther attacks from the Indians 
on the coast, formed a combination sufficient to damp the ardour 
of the youngest, or the courage of the most enterprising. The 
retrospect was gloomy, and the future full of " shadows, clouds, 
and darkness." The scene before us, however, was novel, and 
for a time our ideas were diverted from the thoughts of " battle, 
murder, and sudden death," to the striking peculiarities connected 
with our present situation. 

The spot selected for the fort was on a handsome eminence 
called Point George, which commanded an extensive view of 
the majes'ic Columbia in front; bounded by the bold and hickly- 
wooded northern shore. On the right, about three miles dis- 



THE FORT THE NATIVES. G9 

tant, a long, high, ami rocky peninsula covered with timber, 
called Tongue Point, extended a considerable distance into the 
river from the southern side, with which it was connected by a 
narrow neck of land ; while on the extreme left, Cape Disap- 
pointment, with the bar and its terrific chain of breakers were 
distinctly visible. 

The buildings consisted of apartments for the proprietors and 
clerks, with a capacious dining-hall lor both, extensive ware- 
houses for the trading goods and furs, a provision store, a trading 
shop, smith's forge, carpenter's workshop, &c. The whole sur- 
rounded by stockades forming a square, and reaching about 
fifteen feet above the ground. A gallery ran round the stock- 
ades, in which loopholes were pierced sufficiently large for mus- 
ketry. Two strong bastions, built of logs, commanded the four 
sides of the square: each bastion had two stoiios, in which a 
number of chosen men slept every night. A six-pounder was 
placed in the lower story, and they were both well provided 
with small arms. 

Immediately in front of the fort was a gentle declivity sloping 
down to the river's side, which had been turned into an excellent 
kitchen garden ; and a few hundred yards to the left, a tolerable 
wharf had been run out, by which bateaux and boats were ena- 
bled at low water to land their cargoes without sustaining any 
damage. An impenetrable forest of gigantic pine rose in the 
rear; and the ground was covered with a thick underwood of —^ , 
brier and huckleberry, intermingled with fern and honeysuckle. 

Numbers of the natives crowded in and about the fort. They 
were most uncouth-looking objects ; and not strongly calculated 
to impress us with a favourable opinion of aboriginal beauty, or 
the purity of Indian manners. A few of the men were partially 
covered, but the greater number were unannoyed by vestments 
of any description. Their eyes were black, piercing, and 
treacherous ; their ears slit up, and ornamented with strings of 
beads ; the cartilage of their nostriis perforated, and adorned 
with pieces of hyaquau placed horizontally ; while their heads 
presented an inclined plane from the crown to the upper part of 
the nose, totally unlike our European rotundity of cranium ; and 
their bodies besmeared with whale oil, gave them an ap- 
pearance horribly disgusting. Then the women, — Oh ye gods ! 
With the same auricular, olfactory, and craniological peculiari- 
ties, they exhibited loose hanging breasts, short dirty teeth, skin 
saturated with blubber, bandy legs, and a waddling gait ; while 
their only dress consisted of a kind of petticoat, or rather kilt, 
formed of small strands of cedar bark twisted into cords, and 
reaching from the waist to the knee. This covering in calm 
weather, or in an erect position, served all the purposes of con- 



70 THE PINE-TREE. 

ceal merit ; but in a breeze, or when indulging their favourite 
position of squatting, formed a miserable shield in defence of 
decency : and worse than all, their repulsive familiarities ren- 
dered them objects insupportably odious ; particularly when 
contrasted with the lively eyes, handsome features, fine teeth, 
open countenance, and graceful carriage of the interesting 
islanders whom we had lately left. 

From these ugly specimens of mortality we turned with 
pleasure to contemplate the productions of their country, among 
the most wonderful of which are the fir-trees. The largest 
species grow to an immense size, and one immediately behind 
the fort, at the height of ten feet from the surface of the earth, 
measured forty-six feet in circumference ! The trunk of this 
tree had about one hundred and fifty feet free from branches. 
Its top had been some time before blasted by lightning ; and 
to judge by comparison, its height when perfect must have 
exceeded three hundred feet ! This was however an extraor- 
dinary tree in that country, and was denominated by the Cana- 
dians Le Roi de Pins* 

The general size, however, of the different species of fir, far 
exceeds any thing on the east side of the Rocky Mountains : 
and prime sound pine from two hundred to two hundred and 
eighty feet in height, and from twenty to forty feet in circumfer- 
ence, are by no means uncommon. 

— BufTon asserts that " living nature is less active, less energetic 
in the new world than the old," which he attributes to the pre- 
valence of moisture and deficiency of heat in America. This 
assertion was ably combated by the late Mr. Jefferson ; but 
without entering into the arguments of these celebrated philoso- 
phers, we may safely state, that if America be inferior to the old 
continent in the animal world, she can at least assert her supe- 
riority in the vegetable. 

En passant, I may here remark, that although constant rains 
prevail eight months out of the twelve, and during the remaining 
four, which are the summer months, the heat is far from exces- 
sive, the large and stately elk, which are numerous about the 
lower shores of the Columbia, are equal, if not superior in size 
to those found in the hottest and driest parts of the world. 

There are five or six different species of fir, with the peculiar 
qualities of which I am unacquainted. They split even, malie 
good canoes, yield little ashes, produce scarcely any gum, and 
are excellent for building and other domestic purposes. 



* A pine-tree lias been subsequent^ discovered in the Umpqua country, to 
the southward of the Columbia, the circumference of which is 57 feet ; its 
'height 216 feet without branches ! 



PRODUCTIONS OF THE COUNTRY EXCURSION. 71 

Our table was daily supplied with elk, wild fowl, and fish. Of 
the last, we feasted on the royal sturgeon, which is here large, 
white, and firm ; unrivalled salmon ; and abundance of the 
sweet little anchovy, which is taken in such quantities by the 
Indians, that we have seen their houses garnished with several 
hundred strings of them, dry and drying. We had them gene- 
rally twice a day, at breakfast and dinner, and in a few weeks 
got such a surfeit, that few of us for years afterward tasted an 
anchovy. 

We remained upwards of six weeks at the fort, preparing 
for our grand expedition into the interior. During this period I 
went on several short excursions to the villages of various tribes 
up the river and about the bay. The natives generally received 
us with friendship and hospitality. They vary little in their 
habits or language ; and the perfect uniformity in the shape of 
their heads would, I fancy, puzzle the phrenological skill of the 
most learned disciples of Gall or Spurzheim. I made a few 
midnight visits to their cemeteries, from which I abstracted a 
couple of sculls, which appeared totally devoid of any peculiar 
organic development. I regret that our travelling arrangements 
prevented me from bringing them across the mountains ; for, 
without ocular proof, I fear the faculty could not be brought to 
believe that the human head was capable of being moulded to a 
shape so unlike the great mass of mankind. This however is 
dangerous ground ; and I shall not pursue the subject farther, 
lest I might provoke the gall of the believers in the theory of 
craniology, among whom, I am aware, may be reckoned some 
of the most eminent men in the literary world. 

We also visited Fort Clatsop, the place where Captains Lewis 
and Clarke spent the winter of 1805-6 ; an accurate description 
of which is given in the journal of those enterprising travellers. 
The logs of the house were still standing, and marked with the 
names of several of their party. 

The most striking peculiarity of the immense forests which 
we observed in the course of these excursions, was the total 
absence of the "wood notes wild" of the feathered tribe ; and, 
except in the vicinity of a village, their deep and impervious 
gloom resembles the silence and solitude of death. 



72 DEPARTURE FOR THE INTERIOR. 



CHAPTER VI. 

Departure from Astoria — Description of our party, lading, &c. — Appearance 
of river and islands — Fleas and mosquitoes — First rapids, dangerous acci- 
dent — Indian cemetery — Ugly Indians — Gibraltar — Cape Horn — The nar- 
rows and falls — Change in the appearance of the country — Attempt at rob- 
bery — Mounted Indians. 

In travelling through the Indian country several days must 
necessarily elapse devoid of interesting matter ; and to the 
general reader a succinct detail of the diurnal proceedings of 
Indian traders would be rather dry. I do not profess to write a 
journal, and shall therefore make no apology for sparing my 
readers the trouble of perusing in every page the verbose 
accuracy which details, that in summer journeys we rise each 
morning between three and four o'clock, breakfast between nine 
and ten, and encamp between six and seven in the evening; and 
that, while on the water, few days elapse in which we are not 
obliged to put ashore several times to repair the damage 
sustained by our canoes in passing rapids, portages, or sunken 
trees. 

On the 29th of June, 1812, all the necessary arrangements 
having been perfected, we took our departure from Astoria for 
the interior. Our party consisted of three proprietors, nine 
clerks, fifty-five Canadians, twenty Sandwich Islanders,* and 
Messrs. Crooks, M'Lelland, and R. Stuart, who, with eight men, 
were to proceed with despatches to St. Louis. Messrs. Hunt, 
M'Dougall, Clapp, Halsey, and Franchere, remained at the fort. 
The Beaver had previously sailed for Canton, whence it was 
intended she should return to New- York. 

We travelled in bateaux and light-built wooden canoes : the 
former had eight, and the latter six men. Our lading consisted 
of guns and ammunition, spears, hatchets, knives, beaver traps, 
copper and brass kettles, white and green blankets, blue, green, 
and red cloths, calicoes, beads, rings, thimbles, hawk-bells, &c. ; 
and our provisions of beef, pork, flour, rice, biscuits, tea, sugar, 
with a moderate quantity of rum, wine, &e. : the soft and hard 
goods were secured in bales and boxes, and the liquids in kegs, 
holding on an average nine gallons: the guns were stowed in 
long cases. From thirty to forty of these packages and kegs 
were placed in each vessel, and the whole was covered by an 
oil-cloth or tarpaulin, to preserve them from wet. Each canoe 

* The Tonquin had brought fifteen of the Paiidvvinh islanders from 
"Whoahoo, which, joined with those we brought, amounted to thirty-one. 
Eleven remained at the fort. 



MIDNIGHT ADVENTURE. 



73 



and barge had from six to eight men rowing or paddling, inde- 
pendent of the passengers. 

The Columbia is a noble river, uninterrupted by rapids for 
one hundred and seventy miles ; one hundred of which are 
navigable for vessels of three hundred tons. It is seldom less 
than a mile wide ; but in some places its breadth varies from 
two to five miles. The shores are generally bold and thickly 
wooded. Pine in all its varieties predominates, and is mixed 
with white oak, ash, beech, poplar, alder, crab, and cotton-wood, 
with an undergrowth of briers, &c, through which our hunters 
made many ineffectual attempts to pass. The navigation is 
often obstructed by sand-banks, which are scattered over 
different parts of the river below the rapids, and are dry at 
low water. In the neighbourhood of these sand-banks the 
shores are generally low, and present some fine flat bottoms of 
rich meadow ground, bordered by a profusion of blackberry 
and other wild fruit shrubs : in the deep and narrow parts of 
the channel the shores are bolder. The river, up to the rapids, 
is covered with several islands, from one to three miles in 
length ; some of which are fine meadows, and others well 
wooded. Great caution is required to avoid sunken trees, 
called snags or planters, and by the Canadians chicots, which are 
generally concealed under the surface of the water ; and which, 
if they come in contact with canoes sailing rapidly, may cause 
them to sink if assistance be not at hand. 

About three miles above the fort a long and narrow point of 
land, rather high, runs near half a mile into the river from the 
south side : it is called Tongue Point, and in boisterous weather 
is very difficult to double. On quitting Astoria it blew pretty 
fresh, and we took in a good deal of water in doubling this point. 
We stopped for the night about six miles above Tongue Point, 
on the south side, close to an old uninhabited village, but having 
no lack of animated beings of another description — 1 mean fleas, 
with which the place was completely alive ; and we had not 
been on shore five minutes when we were obliged to strip, get 
a change of clothes, and drown the invaders of our late suit by 
dipping them in the river.* We had to pitch our tents on the 
sandy beach to avoid their attacks ; but this was only " out of 
the fryingpan," &c. ; for about midnight the tide came on us 
unawares ; and the first intimation we received of our danger 
was the noise of the water beating against the canoes and 
baggage ; and when the alarm was given, it was nearly up to 
our knees on the beach. It was a spring-tide, on which the men 

* During the warm months of summer it is difficult to select a spot for an 
encampment free from these annoying insects. 



74 ARRIVAL AT THE RAPIDS. 

did not calculate, and therefore kept no watch ; added to which,, 
every man was nearly drunk on quitting the fort. 

We had immediately to set about getting the goods on the 
grass, and dressing ourselves. On examination the following 
morning, we found several bales were wet, -which we were 
obliged to open for the purpose of drying. This detained us 
late, and we only made about ten miles on the second day, and 
landed on a small bottom, free from the tide, but somewhat 
infested by fleas and mosquitoes. On the 1st of July it blew 
rather stiffly from the south-east, which retarded our progress 
considerably, and we did not make more than fifteen miles ; but 
on the 2d we had a good run, and encamped on a fine meadow 
island, where we hoped to spend a pleasant night, free from 
fleas. Our hopes were partly realized : none of the little agile 
backbiters attacked us ; but their absence was more than amply 
compensated by myriads of mosquitoes, from which we suffered 
the most painful torments all night ; the face, ears, neck, and 
hands were peculiar objects of their affection ; and what 
between them and their brethren of the blanket, we scarcely 
had an unpunctured spot in our bodies. I was particularly 
honoured with their preference ; and in the morning my eyes 
were completely closed up from the effects of their infernal 
stings. 

We arrived on the evening of the 4th at the foot of the first 
rapids, where we encamped. The Indians so far had been 
always friendly, and were in the habit of occasionally trading at 
Astoria ; but as the tribe who reside at the rapids had previously 
manifested hostile feelings, it was deemed necessary to prepare 
for action. Each man was provided with a musket, and forty 
rounds of ball-cartridge, with pouch, belts, &c. ; and over his 
clothes he wore leathern armour : this was a kind of shirt made 
out of the skin of the elk, which reached from the neck to the 
knees. It was perfectly arrow-proof; and at eighty or ninety 
yards impenetrable by a musket bullet. Besides the muskets, 
numbers had daggers, short swords, and pistols ; and, when 
armed cap-a-pie, we presented a formidable appearance. 

A council of war was then called, in which it was arranged 
that five officers should remain at each end of the portage, and 
the remainder, with twenty-five men, be stationed at short 
distances from each other. Its length was between three and 
four miles, and the path was narrow and dangerous ; one part 
greatly obstructed by slippery rocks ; and another ran through 
a thick wood, from which a skilful enemy could have attacked 
us with advantage. We only made one half of the portage the 
first day, and encamped near an old village ; with the river in 
front ; a deep wood in the rear ; at one end a natural intrench- 



ALARM WARLIKE PREPARATIONS. 75 

ment of rocks ; and at the other a barrier formed by the canoes 
and bateaux. The whole brigade was divided into three 
watches, with five officers to each. 

In the course of the day, in the most gloomy part of the wood, 
we passed a cemetery, materially different from those belonging 
to the lower tribes. There were nine shallow excavations closely 
covered with pine and cedar boards, and the top boards sloping to 
let off the rain. Each place was about seven feet square, and 
between five and six feet in height. They contained numbers of 
dead bodies; some in a state of greater or less decomposition, and 
a few quite fresh : they were all carefully enveloped in mats and 
skins. Several poles were attached to these burial-places, on 
which were suspended robes, pieces of cloth, kettles, bags of 
trinkets, baskets of roots, wooden bowls, and several ornaments ; 
all of which the survivors believed their departed friends would 
require in the next world. Their veneration is so great for these 
offerings, that it is deemed sacrilege to pilfer one of them ; and 
although these Indians are not remarkable for scrupulous honesty, 
I believe no temptation would induce them to touch these articles- 
Several of the boards are carved and painted with rude repre- 
sentations of men, bears, wolves, and animals unknown. Some 
in green, others in white and red, and all most hideously unlike 
nature. 

About midnight we were thrown into a state of frightful 
confusion by the report of a gun, and the cries of Mr. Pillet, 
one of the clerks, that he was shot. Every one instantly 
seized his arms, and inquired on which side was the enemy ; 
but our apprehensions were quickly appeased, on learning it 
was merely an accident. One of the gentlemen, in examining 
the musket of a Sandwich Islander, to see if it was primed, 
handed it to him at full cock ; and just as the islander had taken 
it, the piece went off, and the contents lodged in the calf of poor 
Pillet's leg, who naturally enough exclaimed he was shot. This 
was, however, in our present circumstances, a disagreeable event, 
as it rendered Mr. Pillet not only incapable of fighting, but 
required three or four men to carry him in a litter over the 
various portages. The wound was dressed with friar's balsam 
and lint ; the ball extracted the next day ; and in about a month 
afterward he was able to walk. 

We commenced proceedings at four o'clock on the morning 
of the 6th, and finished the portage about two in the afternoon. 
During our progress the Indians occasionally hovered about the 
loaded men, and made two or three trifling essays to pilfer 
them ; but the excellent precautions we had adopted com- 
pletely kept them in check, and deterred them from attempting 
any thing like forcible robbery. At the upper end of the portage 



76 THE NATIVES — PROVISION — NAMES OF PLACES. 

and while we were reloading the canoes, a number of the natives, 
several of whom were armed, assembled about us : they con- 
ducted themselves peaceably ; but our numbers and warlike 
arrangements enforced respect. The dress of the men does 
not differ materially from that of the lower Indians ; but they 
are incontestably more filthy and ugly. Their teeth are almost 
worn away. The greater number have very sore eyes : several 
have only one ; and we observed a few old men and women 
quite blind. The men are generally naked, and the women 
merely wear a leathern belt, with a narrow piece of the same 
material joined to the front, which very imperfectly answers the 
purposes intended. Some wear leathern robes over the breast 
and shoulders ; but others allow these parts to remain naked. 
We observed no one who appeared to assume the authority of 
a chief. Each seemed quite independent of the other, and 
complete master in his own house and family. Their unfeeling 
brutality to the few old blind people I have mentioned was 
really shocking; and I may safely say, a more unamiable race 
of democrats are not to be found in that country of republics. 
We distributed a quantity of tobacco among them, with which 
they appeared satisfied ; after which we embarked, and proceeded 
on. The upper part of this chain of rapids is a perpendicular 
fall of nearly sixteen feet ; after which it continues down nearly 
one uninterrupted rapid for three miles and a half. The river 
here is compressed by the bold shore on each side to about two 
hundred yards or less in breadth. The channel is crowded with 
large rocks, over which the water rushes with incredible velocity 
and with a dreadful noise. Above the portage the river widens 
to about half a mile, and is studded for some distance with several 
rocky and partially wooded islands. We encamped about five 
miles from the portage, in a pretty little creek on the north side. 
The pine declines considerably in size above the rapids, and is 
more equally mixed with other trees ; among which, on the left 
shore, from the portage up to our encampment, the hazel is 
predominant. We purchased some salmon on our way up, by 
which we were enabled to husband our own provisions with more 
economy. I omitted to mention that below the rapids we also 
got a quantity of excellent roots, called by the Indians ivappittoo : 
in size they resemble a small potato, for which it is a good 
substitute when roasted or boiled ; it has a very slight tinge of 
bitterness, but not unpleasantly so ; and is highly esteemed by 
the natives, who collect vast quantities of it for their own use 
and for barter : none of it grows above the rapids. On the 
evening of the 8th w r e reached the foot of the narrows, or, as 
the Canadians call them, les dalles. The river from the first 
rapids to the narrows is broad, deep, and rapid, with several 



COTTRSE OF THE COLUMBIA INDIAN DECEIT. 77 

sunken rocks, scattered here and there, which often injure the 
canoes. The Canadians, who are very fertile in baptizing 
remarkable places, called an island near our encampment of the 
6th Gibraltar, from the rocky steepness of its shore : and about 
half-way between the first rapids and narrows a bold pro- 
montory of high black rock stretches a considerable distance 
into the river, which, from the difficulty we experienced in 
doubling it, received the name of Cape Horn. The current 
here is very strong and full of whirlpools ; so that, except in 
calm weather, or with a fair wind, it is rather a dangerous under- 
taking to " double the cape." The islands in the distance are 
crowded with great numbers of seals, which afforded excellent 
sport to our marksmen. As we approached the narrows the 
shores on each side were less covered with wood, and imme- 
diately close to them it had entirely disappeared. The land on 
the north side was bold and rocky, and about our encampment 
rather low, mixed with rocks, a sandy soil, and totally devoid of 
vegetation, except loose straggling bushes some distance inland. 
The Columbia at the narrows, for upwards of three miles is 
compressed into a narrow channel, not exceeding sixty or 
seventy yards wide ; the whole of which is a succession of 
boiling whirlpools. Above this channel, for four or five miles, 
the river is one deep rapid, at the upper end of which a large 
mass of high black rock stretches across from the north side, 
and nearly joins a similar mass on the south : they are divided 
by a strait not exceeding fifty yards wide ; and through this 
narrow channel, for upwards of half a mile, the immense 
waters of the Columbia are one mass of foam, and force their 
headlong course with a frightful impetuosity, which cannot at 
any time be contemplated without producing a painful giddiness. 
We were obliged to carry all our lading from the lower to the 
upper narrows, nearly nine miles. The canoes were dragged 
up part of the space between the narrows. This laborious 
undertaking occupied two entire days, in consequence of the 
number of armed men we were obliged to keep as guards to 
protect those who carried the goods. It was a little above this 
place where our party had been recently attacked, and we were 
therefore obliged to be doubly cautious. The chief and several 
of the Indians kept about us during the portage. We gave them 
some tobacco and trifling presents to cultivate their friendship, 
in return for which they brought us some salmon. They had 
the discrimination to see from our numbers, and the manner we 
were prepared to receive them, that an attack would be attended 
with rather doubtful success; and therefore feigned an appear- 
ance of friendship, which we affected to believe sincere. The 
propriety of " assuming a virtue if you have it not," however 



78 ATTEMPTED ROBBERY — INDIAN VISITERS. 

questionable in morals, must be often practised among Indians ; 
for they are such thorough-bred hypocrites and liars, that we 
found it often necessary to repose apparent confidence in them 
when we well knew they were exerting their utmost skill to 
impose on and deceive us. Even here, while the chief and 
some of his tribe were smoking with us at one of the resting- 
places, a few of the gentlemen who were at the upper end of 
the portage, seeing no symptoms of danger, wandered a short 
distance among the rocks to view the narrows, leaving part of 
the goods unguarded : this was instantly observed by two 
fellows who were lurking close to the place, and who availed 
themselves of the opportunity to attempt carrying off an entire 
bale ; but finding it rather heavy, were about rifling its contents 
when two of the loaded men arrived, and gave the alarm. The 
robbers had the audaciiy to attack the men, one of whom they 
knocked down ; when the ofricers, on seeing what occurred, 
returned back quickly, upon which the savages fled. A shot was 
fired at them by our best marksman, who was told merely to wing 
one, which he did with great skill, by breaking his left arm, at 
upwards of a hundred yards distance. The fellow gave a 
dreadful shout on receiving the ball, but still continued his flight 
with his comrade, until we lost sight of them. This piece of 
severity was deemed necessary, to prevent repetitions of similar 
aggressions. The chief, in strong terms, declared his ignorance 
of any previous intention on the part of these fellows to commit 
robbery, which we appeared not to doubt ; at the same time 
giving him to understand, that in case any farther attacks were 
made, our balls would be directed to a more mortal part. 

On the morning of the 11th we embarked, and proceeded a 
few miles with great labour, by dragging the canoes against the 
current, which is very strong between the upper narrows and 
the falls. The passengers all walked, and at some ugly rocky 
points part of the lading had to be taken out : this consumed the 
greater portion of the day ; and we encamped that evening on 
the south side near the foot of the falls. Here several Indians 
visited us ; some armed, and on horseback, others unarmed, and 
on foot. In language, dress, and manners, they appeared to 
belong to distinct nations. The horsemen were clean, wore 
handsome leathern shirts and leggings, and had a bold daring 
manner, which we did not observe with any of the tribes from 
the sea upwards. The more humble pedestrians were the 
natives of the place ; they were nearly naked ; and rather dirty 
in their persons, and professed to be friendly : but from several 
attempts they made at pilfering, we entertained strong doubts of 
their sincerity ; and were obliged to order them to remove some 
distance from the camp. They seemed to regard the mounted 



HAPIDS AND FALLS. 79 

Indians with a suspicious degree of apprehension, for which we 
were for some time at a loss to account ; but which we subse- 
quently learned was caused by their having been lately at war, 
in which they were vanquished, and several of their tribe killed 
by the equestrians. The latter remained on horseback most part 
of the time, making observations on our party, by which they 
apparently intended to regulate their future proceedings : they 
made no show of friendship, were rather cold and distant in 
their manners, and appeared to be a reconnoitring party sent out 
by the main body to watch our progress. As a precautionary 
measure, we judged it expedient to show them we were fully 
prepared for action, and accordingly assembled all the men in 
the evening, each encased in his coat of mail, and armed with a 
musket and bayonet. They remained looking at us very atten- 
tively, while our officers proceeded to examine each man's fire- 
lock with all due military solemnity : one-half of the men were 
then ordered to form a barrier with the canoes on our rear and 
flanks, which, with the river in front, effectually served to pre- 
vent a surprise during the night. The whole brigade was 
equally divided ; and one-half of the men having retired to rest, 
the remainder were posted as sentinels about the camp. Owing 
to the extreme heat, the Sandwich islanders had thrown off their 
jackets and shirts during the day, and their swarthy bodies deco- 
rated with buff belts, seemed to excite the particular attention of 
the Indians, who repeatedly pointed towards them, and then 
spoke to each other with considerable animation. Having com- 
pleted our arrangements for the night, we offered them some 
tobacco, which they accepted, and then left us. It is necessary 
to observe that in the course of the day a calumet was presented 
to some of the horsemen, which they refused ; from which cir- 
cumstance, joined to their general deportment, we were led to 
believe their visit was not of a pacific nature. We passed the 
night without any interruption to our repose, and commenced 
the portage of the falls early on the morning of the 12th ; but 
as the ground over which the men were obliged to carry the 
baggage was covered with a deep bed of dry loose sand, which 
fatigued them extremely, they did not finish their laborious duty 
before night. We encamped late at the upper end of the falls, 
near a village of the Eneeshurs, from whom we purchased some 
salmon. A few of the horsemen occasionally reconnoitred us 
during the day ; but as our men made short resting-places, or 
pauses in the portage, by which the entire party were always in 
view of each other, the natives made no hostile attempt ; and 
on observing the manner we had fortified our camp, and placed 
our sentinels for the night, they departed. The principal fall 
does not exceed fifteen feet in height ; but at low water it is 



80 COURSE OF THE COLUMBIA. 

much higher. The descent of the Columbia from above this 
fall to the end of the lower narrows exceeds seventy feet, and 
throughout the whole distance (about ten miles) the river is 
strewed with immense masses of hard black rock, mostly honey- 
combed, and worn into a variety of fantastic shapes by the per- 
petual friction of the water in its fearful course downwards. 
The appearance of the country here is high, rocky, barren, and 
without timber of any kind. We found this a sensible inconve- 
nience ; for we were obliged to purchase some drift-wood from 
the Indians for the purposes of cooking. 

On quitting this place the following morning, a number of 
natives collected about us, among whom we distributed a quan- 
tity of tobacco. The river for some distance above this place 
is deep and rapid, and the banks steep and rocky. The canoes 
were dragged up several miles, and some of them damaged by 
the rocks. About four or five miles above the fall, a high rocky 
island, three miles in length, lies in the centre of the river, on 
which the Indians were employed drying salmon, great quantities 
of which were cured and piled under broad boards in stacks. 
We encamped on the north side opposite the island, and were 
visited by some Indians, from whom we purchased salmon : they 
appeared friendly, and belonged to the Eneeshur tribe at the 
falls. 

Here, and for several hundred miles farther upwards, the 
country assumes a new aspect : it is free from any rising grounds 
or timber, and on each side nothing is to be seen but immense 
plains stretching a great distance to the north and south : the soil 
is dry and sandy, and covered with a loose parched grass, grow- 
ing in tufts. The natives reside solely on the northern side : 
they have plenty of horses, and are generally friendly. Here 
also rattlesnakes are first seen, and are found for four or five 
hundred miles farther on. Between this place and Lewis River 
the Columbia is interrupted by several rapids ; some of which 
are trifling, others dangerous ; but there are long intervals of 
smooth current which occasionally allowed us to hoist small sails, 
and thereby diminish the laborious duty of the canoe-men in 
paddling. 



PROVISIONS — REMARKABLE ESCAPE. 81 



CHAPTER VII. 

Party commence eating horses— Remarkable escape from a rattlesnake — Kill 
numbers of them — Arrive among the Wallah Wallah tribe — Description of 
the country — The Pierccd-nose Indians — Author's party proceeds up Lewis 
River — Purchase horses for the land-travelling — Prickly pears — Awkward 
accident — Leave the canoes, and journey inland. 

The day after quitting the encampment at the end of the rocky 
island, we stopped about one o'clock at a village, where we pur- 
chased five horses. The value of the goods we paid for each 
in England would not exceed live shillings. As these horses 
were intended for the kettle, they were doomed to instant 
destruction. Our comparatively recent separation from the land 
of " bread and butter" caused the idea of feeding on so useful 
and noble an animal to be at first highly repugnant to our feel- 
ings ; but example, and above all, necessity, soon conquered 
these little qualms of civilization ; and in a few days we almost 
brought ourselves to believe that the animal on which we fed 
once carried horns, was divided in the hoof, and chewed the cud. 
A curious incident occurred at this spot to one of our men named 
La Course, which was nearly proving fatal. This man had 
stretched himself on the ground, after the fatigue of the day, 
with his head resting on a small package of goods, and quickly 
fell asleep. While in this situation I passed him, and was almost 
petrified at seeing a large rattlesnake moving from his side to his 
left breast. My first impulse was to alarm La Course ; but an 
old Canadian whom I had beckoned to the spot requested me to 
make no noise, alleging it would merely cross the body, and go 
away. He was mistaken ; for on reaching the man's left shoulder, 
the serpent deliberately coiled itself, but did not appear to medi- 
tate an attack. Having made signs to several others, who joined 
us, it was determined that two men should advance a little 
in front, to divert the attention of the snake, while one should 
approach La Course behind, and with a long stick endeavour to 
remove it from his body. The snake, on observing the men 
advance in front, instantly raised its head, darted out its forked 
tongue, and shook its rattles ; all indications of anger. Every 
one was now in a state of feverish agitation as to the fate of 
poor La Course, who still lay slumbering, unconscious of his 
danger ; when the man behind, who had procured a stick seven 
feet in length, suddenly placed one end of it under the coiled 
reptile, and succeeded in pitching it upwards of ten feet from 
the man's bodv. A shout of joy was the first intimation La 

K 



82 MOSQUITOES — KATTLESNAKES. 

Course received of his wonderful escape, while in the mean 
time the man with the stick pursued the snake, which he killed. 
It was three feet six inches long, and eleven years old, which I 
need not inform my readers we easily ascertained by the number 
of rattles. A general search was then commenced about the 
encampment, and under several rocks we found upwards of 
fifty of them, ah of which we destroyed. There is no danger 
attending their destruction, provided a person has a long pliant 
stick, and does not approach them nearer than their length, for 
they cannot spring beyond it, and seldom act on the offensive 
except closely pursued. They have a strong repugnance to the 
smell of tobacco, in consequence of which we opened a bale of 
it, and strewed a quantity of loose leaves about the tents, by 
which means we avoided their visits during the night. We had 
however nearly as bad visiters — the mosquitoes, which, from the 
falls upwards, annoyed us dreadfully. We were obliged to 
make a slight fire of rotten wood in the cul-de-sac of our tents, 
which merely caused a smoke without flame, and which effect- 
ually drove them away : but the remedy was as bad as the 
disease, as we were nearly blinded and suffocated by the smoke. 
Owing to the many accidents which befell our canoes in the 
rapids, and the time consequently employed in repairing them, 
and drying damaged goods, our progress was greatly retarded, 
and we did not reach the Wallah Wallah river until the 28th. 
During this period we generally encamped on the northern banks 
of the river : purchased a number of horses for eating ; and 
were several times without wood for cooking them. The 
Indians behaved in the most peaceable manner, and freely barter- 
ed with us such other provisions as they could spare. A few 
miles below the Wallah Wallah the land on the other side rises 
into rocky cliffs, near two hundred feet high, which extend some 
distance inland. There is a long and very dangerous rapid at 
their base, which, by way of pre-eminence, the Canadians 
call the Grande Rapide. We landed on the south side, up which 
the canoes were dragged with great difficulty. We observed 
immense numbers of rattlesnakes here, basking in the sun, and 
under the rocks, several of which we killed. Half a dozen of 
us fired together at a batch lying under one rock, and killed or 
wounded thirty-seven ! Our guns were charged with goose 
shot. There was scarcely a stone in this place which was not 
covered with them. All the time we walked we were con- 
stantly on the qui vine ; and, I need not say, picked our steps 
very cautiously. From the friendly character of the natives we 
had thrown by our armour for some days, which relieved us 
greatly ; the heat, while we were obliged to wear it, being almost 
insupportable. Above this rocky eminence the country opened 



THE WALLAH WALLAH. 83 

again into an extended plain. The river here, and for several 
miles lower down, is occasionally bordered with straggling 
clusters of willow, cotton-wood, stunted red cedar, and sumach, 
with quantities of sarsaparilla. There is also abundance of furze 
bushes and wormwood, through which we observed several 
hares running, some of which we killed. 

In the evening we encamped at the entrance of the Wallah 
Wallah river : a number of that tribe visited us, and remained 
for some time smoking. We informed Tamtappam, their chief, 
that we wanted good horses fit to carry luggage, and others to 
eat, and requested he would procure for us as many as he could 
the following day : this he promised to do, and departed. 

On the 29th we purchased twenty horses for Mr. Robert 
Stuart's party; which being deemed sufficient for them, he, with 
Messrs. Crooks and M'Lelland, and eight men, left us the next 
morning under a salute of three cheers, to pursue their danger- 
ous journey across the mountains, and thence by the Missouri to 
St. Louis. The Wallah Wallahs were decidedly the most 
friendly tribe we had seen on the river ; they had an air of open 
unsuspecting confidence in their manner, that at once banished 
suspicion, and ensured our friendship. There was a degree of 
natural politeness, too, evinced by them on entering their lodges, 
which we did not see practised by any others. We visited 
several families in the village ; and the moment we entered, the 
best place was selected for us, and a clean mat spread to sit on ; 
while the inmates, particularly the women and the children, 
remainded at a respectful distance, without manifesting any of 
the obtrusive curiosity about our arms or clothing, by which we 
were so much annoyed among the lower tribes. The females, 
also, were distinguished by a degree of attentive kindness, totally 
removed from the disgusting familiarity of the kilted ladies 
below the rapids, and equally free from an affection of prudery ; 
prostitution is unknown among them ; and I believe no induce- 
ment would tempt them to commit a breach of chastity. 

The Wallah Wallah is a bold, rapid stream, about fifty-five 
yards wide, and upwards of six feet deep : the water is clear, 
and rolls over a bed of sand and gravel. On the 31st we 
moved up to the north side of the mouth of Lewis River, which 
is about fourteen miles above the Wallah Wallah : its course is 
nearly due west, and at its junction with the Columbia it is 
upwards of six hundred yards wide. The current is very rapid ; 
its waters deep, whitish, and slightly tepid, in which respect it 
forms a marked contrast to the Columbia, the waters of which 
are quite clear and cool : the latter river at this place is upwards 
of one thousand yards wide, and the current descends at an even 
rate of about four miles an hour. A little below the junction, 



84 THE PIERCED-NOSE INDIANS — INDIAN CLOTHING. 

however, it widens from a mile to a mile and a half, and has 
several islands, two of which are low and sandy, and are nearly 
three miles in length. Below these islands a range of high hills 
are seen on each side of the river, running nearly from S. W. 
to N. E., and uncovered by any timber : but at an immense dis- 
tance, in a southeasterly direction, a chain of high craggy 
mountains are visible, from which it is supposed the Wallah 
Wallah takes its rise. From their colour the Canadians called 
this chain Les Montagnes Bleues. The banks of both rivers, 
at their junction, are low, with a gentle rise on each side. The 
plains are covered with immense quantities of prickly-pear, 
which was a source of great annoyance. Above Lewis River 
the Columbia runs in a northerly direction : below it, in a west- 
erly. We remained here three days, purchasing horses for our 
journey inland. Mr. David Stuart and a party proceeded in 
their canoes up the Columbia, to the trading establishment which 
he had formed at Oakinagan river, which falls into the Columbia, 
from the northward, about two hundred and eight miles above 
this place. Mr. Donald M'Kenzie and his party proceeded up 
Lewis River in order to establish a trading post on the upper 
parts of it, or in the country of the Snake Indians ; his choice 
to be regulated according to the appearances of beaver in 
either place. The natives of this district are called the Pierced- 
nose Indians ; but as French is the language in general use 
among traders in this country, owing to most part of their work- 
ing men being Canadians, we commonly called them Lez Nez 
Perces. They do not differ much from the Wallah Wallahs in 
their dress or language, but are not so friendly, and demand 
higher prices for their horses. Their habitations are covered 
with large mats, fixed on poles ; some are square, others oblong, 
and some conical : they are of various sizes, from twenty to 
seventy feet long, and from ten to fifteen feet broad. There are 
no interior divisions, and an opening in the top serves the double 
purpose of a window and chimney. These dwellings are pretty 
free from vermin, and are easily changed when occasion 
requires. The women wear leathern robes, which cover the 
shoulders, part of the arms, the breasts, and reach down to their 
legs. The men have robes nearly similar, but not so long, with 
leggings which reach up half the thigh, and are fastened to a 
belt round the waist by leathern thongs. They are clean, active, 
and smart-looking, good hunters, and excellent horsemen. They 
enjoy good health, and, with the exception of a few sore eyes, 
did not appear to have any disorder. They are fond of their 
children, and attentive to the wants of their old people. Then- 
saddles are made of dressed deer-skin stuffed with hair : the 
stirrups are wooden, with the bottom broad and flat, and covered 



LEWIS MVEIt — DANC-EIlOt'S TASS. 85 

over with raw skin, which when dry becomes hard, and lasts a 
long time. The bridles are merely ropes made out of the hair 
of the horses' tails, and are tied round their under jaw. The 
women ride like the men : their saddles are high in front and 
rear, and formed something like the humps of a camel's back ; 
and they must bring their horses to a rock or old tree to enable 
them to mount. The men arc hard and unfeeling riders : the 
rope bridles cut the corners of the poor horses' mouths ; and the 
saddles generally leave their backs quite raw : yet in this state 
they ride them for several days successively without the least 
pity for the tortured animals. We got plenty of salmon while 
wc remained here, and some lamprey eels, the latter of which 
were oily and very strong. Having purchased twenty-five 
horses, we took our departure on the 3d of August, and pro- 
ceeded up Lewis River ; some on land with the horses, but the 
greater part still in the canoes. The water was very high and 
rapid, and in many places the banks steep and shelving, which 
made the process of dragging up the canoes very difficult. 
Poling was quite impossible ; for on the oft", or outer side, the 
men could not find bottom with their poles. I remained on 
shore part of the time with the horses. In some places the path 
wound along the almost perpendicular declivities of high hills, on 
the banks of the river, and was barely wide enough for one 
horse at a time. Yet along these dangerous roads the Indians 
galloped with the utmost composure ; while one false step would 
have hurled them down a precipice of three hundred feet into 
the torrent below. Even walking along these dangerous decli- 
vities, leading my horse, I experienced an indescribable sensation 
of dread on looking down the frightful abyss. 

On the 7th we reached a small s trea m, which falls into the 
Lewis River from the north : the mouth is wide, and forms a 
kind of semicircular bay, but suddenly narrows to about ten or 
twelve yards. A village of about forty mat-covered tents was 
situated at its junction with the main river. The inhabitants 
were busily employed in catching and drying salmon for their 
winter and spring stock ; and as it was here we intended to 
leave the canoes, and proceed to our destination by land, we 
encamped on the west side of the little bay, and immediately 
commenced a trade with the natives for horses. This place is 
not more than fifty miles from the Columbia ; but owing to the 
rapidity of the current, and the many rapids with which it was 
interrupted, our progress was slow. The business of collecting 
and catching the horses, which generally occupied until eleven 
or twelve o'clock each day, also contributed to cause this delay. 
With the exception of small willow and cotton-wood, there are 
no trees from the Columbia upwards. The ground is covered 



8G THE PRICKLY-PEAR THEFTS. 

with loose grass, and abounds in great quantities of the prickly- 
pear, the thorns of which are remarkably sharp, and strong 
enough to penetrate the leather of the thickest moccasins. 

On the third day, while riding a short distance ahead of the 
men, my horse happened to stand on a bunch of the prickly- 
pears, which pained him so much that he commenced plunging 
and kicking, and ultimately threw me into a cluster of them. My 
face, neck, and body were severely pierced ; and every effort 
to rise only increased the painfulness of my situation, for where- 
ever I placed my hands to assist in raising my body, they came 
in contact with the same tormenting thorns. In fact I could not 
move an inch ; and to add to my disaster, I observed three rattle- 
snakes within a few feet of my head. The men who were in 
the rear driving the horses, hearing my cries, quickly came to my 
assistance, and with considerable difficulty disentangled me from 
my painful situation ; the snakes in the mean time had disap- 
peared. I immediately hailed the canoes, and resumed my old 
place on board, firmly resolved never again to ride while a 
prickly-pear was visible. 

The inhabitants of this fishing village were part of the 
Pierced-nose Indians. We remained here seven days, endea- 
vouring to complete our number of horses, which we at length 
effected. The natives were hard to deal with, and we had to 
raise our prices. Several trifling articles were stolen from us, 
which the chief promised to recover ; but he either made no 
attempt, or the means he used were ineffectual. He apologized 
for his want of success, by saying that the thieves belonged to 
another tribe higher up the river, and that they had departed 
with the stolen property. In their dress, language, and dwell- 
ings, these people differed little from those at the mouth of 
Lewis River. On the evening of the 14th we laid up our 
bateaux and canoes in a snug spOt covered with willow and 
loose shrubs, and recommended them to the care of the chief, 
who promised that they should be carefully preserved until our 
return the following spring. We made him a present of a 
fathom of blue cloth, an axe, and a knife ; to his wife we gave a 
few strings of white and blue beads, and three dozen of hawk- 
bells for her chemise de cuir ; and among the remainder we 
distributed a few heads of leaf-tobacco. 

We purchased altogether fifty horses to carry the goods and 
baggage ; and from the difficulty we experienced in procuring 
that number, we were not able to obtain enough for our own 
use. M'Lennan and I, however, succeeded in purchasing one 
for our joint use ; and Farnham and Pillet got another. The 
men also obtained a few, which occasionally served to relieve 
them in the progress of their journey. Our destination was 



OVEK-LAND JOURNEY rLEASANT HALT. 87 

fixed for the Spokan tribe of Indians, whose lands lay about one 
hundred and fifty miles from Lewis Rivcr,in a north-cast direction, 
and among whom we were given to understand the North-west 
Company had already established a trading post from the east 
side of the Rocky Mountains. We also engaged an Indian 
guide to conduct us to the Spokan lands. 

On the loth of August, at five a. m., we took our departure 
from Lewis River. Our party consisted of one proprietor, four 
clerks, twenty-one Canadians, and six Sandwich islanders, with 
the Indian guide. We proceeded nearly due north along the 
banks of the small river, for some miles, through an open plain, 
which was bounded by a range of steep rugged hills, running 
from the westward, over which we had to cross. In some 
places the path led over steep and slippery rocks, and was so 
narrow, that the horses, which were loaded with large bales, 
could not pass without running the risk of falling down the 
craggy precipices ; and the men were obliged to unload them, 
and place the bales singly on the top of the pack-saddles. 
After we had passed, as we imagined, the most dangerous 
part of the pathway, and had commenced our descent into 
the plain, one of the horses missed his footing, and rolled 
down a declivity of two hundred feet, loaded with two cases of 
axes : the cases were broken, and their contents scattered about 
the rocks ; but, with the exception of his sides, the skin of 
which was scraped off, the horse received no material injury. 
We arrived on the north side of these hills about eleven o'clock, 
when we stopped to breakfast on the banks of the river, which 
here turns to the eastward. We resumed our journey at two 
o'clock, and suffered severely during the day from the intense 
heat, and the want of water. The country was a continued 
plain, with sandy and rocky bottom, mixed with loose tufts of 
grass. About seven in the evening we reached a cool stream, 
on the banks of wliich were a profusion of wild cherries, currants, 
and blackberries, which afforded us an unexpected and welcome 
treat. We encamped here for the night ; and did not hobble 
the horses,* as we were certain the luxurious herbage of the 
prairie would prevent them from wandering. 

At four a. m., on the lGth, we set off from our encampment, 
still pursuing a northerly course. The country still champaign, 
and the grass long and coarse, but loosely imbedded in a sandy 
soil. About eight we came to a fine spring, at which we break- 
fasted, as our guide told us we should not find water beyond it 
for a great distance. After waiting here a few hours, we reloaded, 
and pursued our journey in the same direction. During the 

* When we were apprchensivo that the horses might wander from an 
encampment, their two fore legs were tied together. This we called hobbling. 



00 INDIAN PRECISION JOURNEY CONTINUED. 

remainder of the day no " green spot bloomed on the desert" 
around us. The country was completely denuded of wood ; 
and as far as the eye extended, nothing was visible but immense 
plains covered with parched brown grass, swarming with rattle- 
snakes. The horses suffered dreadfully, as well as their masters, 
from heat and thirst. Two fine pointers belonging to Mr. Clarke 
were so exhausted that we were compelled to leave them behind, 
and never saw them afterward. Several of the horses being 
on the point of giving up, and numbers of the men scarcely able 
to walk, Mr. Clarke sharply questioned the guide as to his know- 
ledge of the country, and the probable time we might expect to 
fall in with water ; the latter saw his doubts, and calmly replied, 
pointing to the sun, that when it should have gained a certain 
distance we might expect relief. We knew half an hour would 
not elapse before it should attain the desired point, and every 
watch was out to judge of the Indian's accuracy. He was 
right ; and about half-past five p. m. we reached a small stream, 
by the side of which we encamped for the night. The guide 
gave us to understand we should find plenty of water the follow- 
ing day. 



CHAPTER VIII. 



Author loses the party — Curious adventures, and surprising escapes from ser- 
pents and wild beasts, during fourteen days in a wilderness — Meets with 
Indians, by whom he is hospitably received, and conducted to his friends. 

On the 17th of August we left our encampment a little after 
four a. m. During the forenoon the sun was intensely hot. 
Occasional bright green patches, intermixed with wild flowers, 
and gently rising eminences, partially covered with clumps of 
small trees, gave an agreeable variety to the face of the country ; 
which we enjoyed the more, from the scorched and sterile 
uniformity of the plains through which we had passed on the 
two preceding days. We got no water, however, until twelve 
o'clock, when we arrived in a small valley of the most delightful 
verdure, through which ran a clear stream from the northward, 
over a pebbly bottom. The horses were immediately turned 
loose to regale themselves in the rich pasture ; and as it was full 
of red and white clover, orders were given not to catch them 
until two o'clock, by which time we thought they would be suffi- 
ciently refreshed for the evening's journey. 



AUTHOR LOSES THE PARTY. 80 

After walking and riding eight hours, I need not say we made 
a hearty breakfast ; after which I wandered some distance along 
the banks of the rivulet in search of cherries, and came to a 
sweet little arbour formed by sumach and cherry trees. I 
pulled a quantify of the fruit, and sat down in the retreat to 
enjoy its refreshing coolness. It was a charming spot, and on the 
opposite bank was a delightful wilderness of crimson haw, honey- 
suckles, wild roses, and currants : its resemblance to a friend's 
summer-house, in which I had spent many happy days, brought 
back home, with all its endearing recollections ; and my scattered 
thoughts were successively occupied with the past, the present, 
and the future. In this state I fell into a kind of pleasing, soothing 
revery, which, joined to the morning's fatigue, gradually sealed 
my eyelids ; and unconscious of my situation, I resigned myself 
to the influence of the drowsy god. Imagine my feelings when 
I awoke in the evening, I think it was about five o'clock from 
the declining appearance of the sun ! All was calm and silent 
as the grave. I hastened to the spot where we had breakfasted : 
I ran to the place where the men had made their fire : all, all 
were gone, and not a vestige of man or horse appeared in the 
valley. My senses almost failed me. I called out, in vain, in 
every direction, until I became hoarse ; and I could no longer 
conceal from myself the dreadful truth that I was alone in a 
wild, uninhabited country, without horse or arms, and destitute 
of covering. 

Having now no resource but to ascertain the direction which 
the party had taken, I set about examining the ground, and at 
the north-east point of the valley discovered the tracks of horses' 
feet, which I followed for some time, and which led to a chain 
of small hills, with a rocky gravelly bottom, on which the hoofs 
made no impression. Having thus lost the tracks, I ascended 
the highest of the hills, from which I had an extended view of 
many miles around ; but saw no sign of the party, or the least 
indication of human habitations. The evening was now closing 
fast, and with the approach of night a heavy dew commenced 
falling. The whole of my clothes consisted merely of a gingham 
shirt, nankeen trousers, and a pair of light leather moccasins, 
much worn. About an hour before breakfast, in consequence 
of the heat, I had taken off my coat, and placed it on one of the 
loaded horses, intending to put it on towards the cool of the 
evening ; and one of the men had charge of my fowling-piece. 
I was even without my hat ; for in the agitated state of my mind 
on awaking, I had left it behind, and had advanced too far to 
think of returning for it. At some distance on my left, I observed 
a field of high strong grass, to which I proceeded, and after 
pulling enough to place under and over me, I recommended 

Li 



90 DESTITUTE SITUATION FORTUNATE ESCAPE. 

myself to the Almighty, and fell asleep. During the night con- 
fused dreams of warm houses, feather-beds, poisoned arrows, 
prickly-pears, and rattlesnakes, haunted my disturbed imagi- 
nation. 

On the 18th I arose with the sun, quite wet and chilly, the 
heavy dew having completely saturated my flimsy covering, and 
proceeded in an easterly direction, nearly parallel with the chain 
of hills. In the course of the day I passed several small lakes 
full of wild-fowl. The general appearance of the country was 
flat, the soil light and gravelly, and covered with the same loose 

frass already mentioned ; great quantities of it had been recently 
urned by the Indians in hunting the deer, the stubble of which 
annoyed my feet very much. I had turned into a northerly 
course, where, late in the evening, I observed, about a mile 
distant, two horsemen galloping in an easterly direction. From 
their dresses I knew they belonged to our party. I instantly ran 
to a hillock, and called out in a voice, to which hunger had 
imparted a supernatural shrillness; but they galloped on. I then 
took off my shirt, which I waved in a conspicuous manner over my 
head, accompanied by the most frantic cries ; still they continued 
on. I ran towards the direction they were galloping, despair 
adding wings to my flight. Rocks, stubble, and brushwood were 
passed with the speed of a hunted antelope ; but to no purpose ; 
for on arriving at the place where I imagined a pathway would 
have brought me into their track, I was completely at fault. It 
was now nearly dark. I had eaten nothing since the noon of 
the preceding day : and, faint with hunger and fatigue, threw 
myself on the grass, when I heard a small rustling noise behind 
me. I turned round, and, with horror, beheld a large rattle- 
snake cooling himself in the evening shade. I instantly retreated, 
on observing which he coiled himself. Having obtained a large 
stone, I advanced slowly on him, and taking a proper aim, 
dashed it with all my force on the reptile's head, which I buried 
in the ground beneath the stone. 

The late race had completely worn out the thin soles of my 
moccasins, and my feet in consequence became much swollen. 
As night advanced, I was obliged to look out for a place to 
sleep, and after some time, selected nearly as good a bed as the 
one I had the first night. My exertions in pulling the long 
coarse grass nearly rendered my hands useless, by severely 
cutting all the joints of the fingers. 

I rose before the sun on the morning of the 19th, and pursued 
an easterly course all the day. I at first felt very hungry, but 
after walking a few miles, and taking a drink of water, I got a 
little refreshed. The general appearance of the country was 
still flat, with burned grass, and sandy soil, which blistered my 
feet. The scorching influence of the sun obliged me to stop for 



EXTREME PRIVATION MIDNIGHT SERENADE. 91 

some hours in the day ; during whieh I made several ineffectual 
attempts to construct a covering for my head. At times I 
thought my brain was on fire from the dreadful effects of the 
heat I got no fruit those two days, and towards evening felt 
very weak for the want of nourishment, having been forty-eight 
hours without food ; and to make my situation more annoying, I 
slept that evening on the banks of a pretty lake, the inhabitants 
of which would have done honour to a royal table. With what 
an evil eye, and a murderous heart, did I regard the stately 
goose, and the plump waddling duck, as they sported on the 
water, unconscious of my presence ! Even with a pocket- 
pistol I could have done execution among them. The state of 
my fingers prevented me from obtaining the covering of grass 
which I had the two preceding nights ; and on this evening I 
had no shelter whatever to protect me from the heavy dew. 

On the following day, the 20th, my course was nearly north- 
east, and lay through a country more diversified by wood and 
water. I saw plenty of wild geese, ducks, cranes, curlews, and 
sparrows, also some hawks and cormorants, and at a distance 
about fifteen or twenty small deer. The wood consisted of pine, 
birch, cedar, wild cherries, hawthorn, sweet-willow, honey- 
suckle, and sumach. The rattlesnakes were very numerous this 
day, with horned lizards, and grasshoppers : the latter kept me 
in a constant state of feverish alarm, from the similarity of the 
noise made by their wings to the sound of the rattles of the 
snake, when preparing to dart on its prey. I suffered severely 
during the day from hunger, and was obliged to chew grass 
occasionally, which allayed it a little. Late in the evening I 
arrived at a lake upwards of two miles long, and a mile broad, 
the shores of which were high, and well wooded with large pine, 
spruce, and birch. It was fed by two rivulets, from the north 
and north-east, in which I observed a quantity of small fish ; but 
had no means of catching any, or I should have made a Sand- 
wich Island meal. There was, however, an abundant supply of 
wild cherries, on which I made a hearty supper. I slept on the 
bank of the nearest stream, just where it entered the lake ; but 
during the night the howling of wolves, and growling of bears, 
broke in terribly on my slumbers, and " balmy sleep" was almost 
banished from my eyelids. On rising the next morning, the 21st, 
I observed on the opposite bank, at the mouth of the river, the 
entrance of a large and apparently deep cavern, from which I 
judged some of the preceding night's music had issued. I now 
determined to make short journeys, for two or three days, in 
different directions, in the hope of falling on some fresh horse 
tracks; and in the event of being unsuccessful, to return each night 
to the lake, where I was at least certain of procuring cherries 



92 ATTACK ON A WOLF — NOCTURNAL SERENADE. 

and water sufficient to sustain nature. In pursuance of this 
resolution I set out early, in a southerly direction, from the head 
of the lake, through a wild barren country, without any water, 
or vegetation, save loose tufts of grass, like those already 
described. I had armed myself with a long stick, with which, 
during the day, I killed several rattlesnakes. Having discovered 
no fresh tracks, I returned late in the evening hungry and thirsty, 
and took possession of my berth of the preceding night. I 
collected a heap of stones from the water-side ; and just as I 
was lying down observed a wolf emerge from the opposite 
cavern, and thinking it safer to act on the offensive, lest he should 
imagine I was afraid, I threw some stones at him, one of which 
struck him on the leg : he retired yelling into his den ; and after 
waiting some time in fearful suspense, to see if he would reappear, 
I threw myself on the ground, and fell asleep ; but, like the 
night before, it w r as broken by the same unsocial noise, and for 
upwards of two hours I sat up waiting in anxious expectation the 
return of daylight. The vapours from the lake, joined to the 
heavy dew, had penetrated my frail covering of gingham ; but 
as the sun rose, I took it off, and stretched it on a rock, where it 
quickly dried. My excursion to the southward having proved 
abortive, I now resolved to try the east, and after eating my 
simple breakfast, proceeded in that direction : and on crossing 
the two small streams, had to penetrate a country full of " dark 
woods and rankling wilds," through which, owing to the immense 
quantities of underwood, my progress was slow. My feet too 
were uncovered, and, from the thorns of the various prickly 
plants, were much lacerated ; in consequence of which, on 
returning to my late bivouack, I was obliged to shorten the legs 
of my trousers to procure bandages for them. The wolf did 
not make his appearance ; but during the night I got occasional 
starts from several of his brethren of the forest. 

I anticipated the rising of the sun on the morning of the 23d, 
and having been unsuccessful the two preceding days, deter- 
mined to shape my course due north, and if possible not return 
again to the lake. During the day I skirted the wood, and fell 
on some old tracks, which revived my hopes a little. The country 
to the westward was chiefly plains, covered with parched grass, 
and occasionally enlivened by savannas of refreshing green, 
full of wild flowers and aromatic herbs, among which the bee 
and humming-bird banqueted. I slept this evening by a small 
brook, where I collected cherries and haws enough to make a 
hearty supper. I was obliged to make farther encroachments 
on the legs of my trowsers for fresh bandages for my feet. 
During the night I was serenaded by music which did not 
resemble " a concord of most sweet sounds ;" in which the 



MIDNIGIIT WATCHINGS. 93 

grumbling bass of the bears was at times drowned by the less 
pleasing sharps of the wolves. I partially covered my body this 
night with some pieces of pine bark which I stripped oft* a sap- 
less tree. 

The country through which I dragged my tired limbs on the 
24th was thinly wooded. My course was north and north-east. 
I suffered much from want of water, having got during the day 
only two tepid and nauseous draughts from stagnant pools which 
the long drought had nearly dried up. About sunset I arrived 
at a small stream, by the side of which I took up my quarters 
for the night. The dew fell heavily ; but I was too much 
fatigued to go in quest of bark to cover me ; and even had I 
been so inclined, the howling of the wolves would have 
deterred me from making the dangerous attempt. There must 
have been an extraordinary nursery of these animals close to 
the spot ; for between the weak, shrill cries of the young, and 
the more loud and dreadful howling of the old, I never expected 
to leave the place alive. I could not sleep. My only weapons 
of defence were a heap of stones and a stick. Ever and anon 
some more daring than others approached me. I presented the 
stick at them as if in the act of levelling a gun, upon which they 
retired, vented a few yells, advanced a little farther ; and after 
surveying me for some time with their sharp, fiery eyes, to 
which the partial glimpses of the moon had imparted additional 
ferocity, retreated into the wood. In this state of fearful 
agitation I passed the night ; but as day-light began to break, 
Nature asserted her supremacy, and I fell into a deep sleep, 
from which, to judge by the sun, I did not awake until between 
eight and nine o'clock on the morning of the 25th. My second 
bandages having been worn out, I was now obliged to bare my 
knees for fresh ones ; and after tying them round my feet, and 
taking a copious draught from the adjoining brook for breakfast, 
I recommenced my joyless journey. My course was nearly 
north-north-east. I got no water during the day, nor any of the 
wild cherries. Some slight traces of men's feet, and a few old 
horse tracks occasionally crossed my path : they proved that 
human beings sometimes at least visited that part of the country, 
and for a moment served to cheer my drooping spirits. 

About dusk, an immense-sized wolf rushed out of a thick 
copse a short distance from the pathway, planted himself 
directly before me, in a threatening position, and appeared 
determined to dispute my passage. He was not more than 
twenty feet from me. My situation was desperate, and as I 
knew that the least symptom of fear would be the signal for 
attack, I presented my stick, and shouted as loud as my weak 
voice would permit. He appeared somewhat startled, and 



94 RETREAT OF THE WOLF — APPALLING SITUATION. 

retreated a few steps, still keeping his piercing eyes firmly fixed 
on me. I advanced a little, when he commenced howling in a 
most appalling manner ; and supposing his intention was to 
collect a few of his comrades to assist in making an afternoon 
repast on my half-famished carcass, I redoubled my cries, until 
1 had almost lost the power of utterance, at the same time 
calling out various names, thinking I might make it appear 
I was not alone. An old and a young lynx ran close past me, 
but did not stop. The wolf remained about fifteen minutes in 
the same position ; but whether my wild and fearful exclama- 
tions deterred any others from joining him, I cannot say. 
Finding at length my determination not to flinch, and that no 
assistance was likely to come, he retreated into the wood, and 
disappeared in the surrounding gloom. 

The shades of night were now descending fast, when I came 
to a verdant spot surrounded by small trees, and full of rushes, 
which induced me to hope for water ; but after searching for 
some time, I was still, doomed to bitter disappointment. A 
shallow lake or pond had been there, which the long drought 
and heat had dried up. I then pulled a quantity of the rushes 
and spread them at the foot of a large stone, which I intended 
for my pillow ; but as I was about throwing myself down, a 
rattlesnake coiled, with the head erect, and the forked tongue 
extended in a state of frightful oscillation, caught my eye 
immediately under the stone. I instantly retreated a short 
distance ; but assuming fresh courage, soon despatched it with 
my stick. On examining the spot more minutely, a large 
cluster of them appeared under the stone, the whole of which 
I rooted out and destroyed. This was hardly accomplished 
when upwards of a dozen snakes of different descriptions, 
chiefly dark brown, blue, and green, made their appearance : 
they were much quicker in their movements than their rattle- 
tailed brethren ; and I could only kill a few of them. 

This was a peculiarly soul-trying moment. I had tasted no 
fruit since the morning before, and after a painful day's march 
under a burning sun, could not procure a drop of water to allay 
my feverish thirst. I was surrounded by a murderous brood of 
serpents, and ferocious beasts of prey, and without even the 
consolation of knowing when such misery might have a probable 
termination. I might truly say with the royal psalmist that * the 
snares of death compassed me round about." 

Having collected a fresh supply of rushes, which I spread 
some distance from the spot where I massacred the reptiles, I 
threw myself on them, and was permitted, through Divine 
goodness, to enjoy a night of undisturbed repose. 

I arose on the morning of the 26th considerably refreshed ; 



UNPLEASANT INTRUSION — AWKWARD RENCOUNTER. 95 

and took a northerly course, occasionally diverging a little to 
the east. Several times during the day I was induced to leave 
the path by the appearance of rushes, which I imagined grew 
in the vicinity of lakes ; but on reaching them my faint hopes 
vanished : there was no water, and I in vain essayed to extract 
a little moisture from them. Prickly thorns and small sharp 
stones added greatly to the pain of my tortured feet, and obliged 
me to make farther encroachments on my nether garments for 
fresh bandages. The want of water now rendered me 
extremely weak and feverish ; and I had nearly abandoned all 
hopes of relief, when, about half-past four or five o'clock, the 
old pathway turned from the prairie grounds into a thickly 
wooded country, in an easterly direction ; through which I had 
not advanced half a mile when I heard a noise resembling a 
waterfall, to which I hastened my tottering steps, and in a few 
minutes was delighted at arriving on the banks of a deep and 
narrow rivulet, which forced its way with great rapidity over 
some large stones that obstructed the channel. 

After offering up a short prayer of thanksgiving for this 
providential supply, 1 threw myself into the water, forgetful of 
the extreme state of exhaustion to which I was reduced : it had 
nearly proved fatal, for my weak frame could not withstand the 
strength of the current, which forced me down a short distance, 
until I caught the bough of an overhanging tree, by means of 
which I regained the shore. Here were plenty of hips and 
cherries ; on which, with the water, I made a most delicious 
repast. On looking about for a place to sleep, I observed lying 
on the ground the hollow trunk of a large pine, which had been 
destroyed by lightning. I retreated into the cavity ; and having 
covered myself completely with large pieces of loose bark, 
quickly fell asleep. My repose was not of long duration ; for 
at the end of about two hours I was awakened by the growling 
of a bear, which had removed part of the bark covering, and 
was leaning over me with his snout, hesitating as to the means 
he should adopt to dislodge me ; the narrow limits of the trunk 
which confined my body preventing him from making the attack 
with advantage. I instantly sprung up, seized my stick, and 
uttered a loud cry, which startled him, and caused him to recede 
a few steps ; when he stopped, and turned about, apparently 
doubtful whether he would commence an attack. He deter- 
mined on an assault ; but feeling I had not sufficient strength 
to meet such an unequal enemy, I thought it prudent to retreat, 
and accordingly scrambled up an adjoining tree. My flight 
gave fresh impulse to his courage, and he commenced ascending 
after me. I succeeded however in gaining a branch, which 
gave me a decided advantage over him ; and from which I was 



96 AGREEABLE DISCOVERY — HOPE RENEWED. 

enabled to annoy his muzzle and claws in such a manner with 
my stick as effectually to check his progress. After scraping the 
bark some time with rage and disappointment, he gave up the 
task, and retired to my late dormitory, of which he took 
possession. The fear of falling off, in case I was overcome by 
sleep, induced me to make several attempts to descend ; but 
each attempt aroused my ursine sentinel ; and after many 
ineffectual efforts, I was obliged to remain there during the rest 
of the night. 1 fixed myself in that part of the trunk from which 
the principal grand branches forked, and which prevented me 
from falling during my fitful slumbers. 

On the morning of the 27th, a little after sunrise, the bear 
quitted the trunk, shook himself, " cast a longing, lingering look" 
towards me, and slowly disappeared in search of his morning 
repast. After waiting some time, apprehensive of his return, I 
descended and resumed my journey through the woods, in a 
north-north-east direction. In a few hours all my anxiety of the 
preceding night was more than compensated by falling in with 
a well-beaten horse path, with fresh traces on it, both of hoofs 
and human feet ; it lay through a clear open wood, in a north- 
east course, in which I observed numbers of small deer. About 
six in the evening I arrived at a spot where a party must have 
slept the preceding night. Round the remains of a large fire 
which was still burning, were scattered several half-picked bones 
of grouse, partridges, and ducks, all of which I collected with 
economical industry. After devouring the flesh 1 broiled the 
bones. The whole scarcely sufficed to give me a moderate meal, 
but yet afforded a most seasonable relief to my famished body. 
I enjoyed a comfortable sleep this night, close to the fire, uninter- 
rupted by any nocturnal visiter. On the morning of the 28th I 
set off with cheerful spirits, fully impressed with the hope of a 
speedy termination to my sufferings. My course was northerly, 
and lay through a thick wood. Late in the evening I arrived at 
a stagnant pool, from which I merely moistened my lips ; and 
having covered myself with some birch bark, slept by its side. 
The bears and wolves occasionally serenaded me during the 
night, but I did not see any of them. I rose early on the morning 
of the 29th, and followed the fresh traces all day, through the 
wood, nearly north-east by north. I observed several deer, 
some of which came quite close to me ; and in the evening I 
threw a stone at a small animal resembling a hare, the leg of 
which I broke. It ran away limping, but my feet were too sore 
to permit me to follow it. I passed the night by the side of a 
small stream, where I got a sufficient supply of hips and cherries. 
A few distant growls awoke me at intervals, but no animal 
appeared. On the 30th the path took a more easterly turn, and the 



INDIAN RECEPTION — PLEASURES OF SOCIETY. 97 

woods became thicker and more gloomy. I had now nearly con- 
sumed the remnant of my trousers in bandages for my wretched 
feet ; and, with the exception of my shirt, was almost naked. 
The horse-tracks every moment appeared more fresh, and fed 
my hopes. Late in the evening I arrived at a spot where the 
path branched off in different directions ; one led up rather a 
steep hill, the other descended into a valley, and the tracks on 
both were equally recent. I took the higher ; but after pro- 
ceeding a few hundred paces through a deep wood, which 
appeared more dark from the thick foliage which shut out the 
rays of the sun, I returned, apprehensive of not procuring water 
for my supper, and descended the lower path. I had not 
advanced far when I imagined I heard the neighing of a horse. 
I listened with breathless attention, and became convinced it was 
no illusion. A few paces farther brought me in sight of several 
of those noble animals sporting in a handsome meadow, from 
which I was separated by a rapid stream. With some difficulty 
I crossed over, and ascended the opposite bank. One of the 
horses approached me : I thought him the " prince of palfreys ; 
his neigh was like the bidding of a monarch, and his counte- 
nance enforced homage." 

On advancing a short distance into the meadow, the cheering 
sight of a small column of gracefully curling smoke, announced 
nry vicinity to human beings, and in a moment after two Indian 
women perceived me: they instantly fled to a hut which 
appeared at the farther end of the meadow. This movement 
made me doubt whether I had arrived among friends or ene- 
mies ; but my apprehensions were quickly dissipated by the 
approach of two men, who came running to me in the most 
friendly manner. On seeing the lacerated state of my feet, they 
carried me in their arms to a comfortable dwelling covered with 
deer-skins. To wash and dress my torn limbs, roast some roots, 
and boil a small salmon, seemed but the business of a moment. 
After returning thanks to that great and good Being in whose 
hands are the issues of life and death, and who had watched 
over my wandering steps, and rescued me from the many 
perilous dangers I encountered, I sat down to my salmon, of 
which it is needless to say I made a hearty supper. 

The family consisted of an elderly man, and his son, with their 
wives and children. I collected from their signs that they were 
aware of my being lost, and that they, with other Indians and 
white men, had been out several days scouring the woods and 
plains in search of me. I also understood from them that our 
party had arrived at their destination, which w r as only a few 
hours' march from their habitation. They behaved to me with 
affectionate solicitude ; and while the old woman was carefully 

M 



98 JOYFUL MEETING. 

dressing my feet, the men were endeavouring to make me com- 
prehend their meaning. I had been fourteen days in a wilder- 
ness without holding " communion kind" with any human being ; 
and I need not say I listened with a thousand times more real 
delight to the harsh and guttural voices of those poor Indians, 
than was ever experienced by the most enthusiastic admirer of 
melody from the thrilling tones of a Catalani, or the melting 
sweetness of a Stephens. As it was too late, after finishing my 
supper, to proceed farther that night, I retired to rest on a com- 
fortable couch of buffalo and deer-skins. I slept soundly : and 
the morning of the 31st was far advanced before I awoke. 
After breakfasting on the remainder of the salmon, I prepared 
to join my white friends. A considerable stream, about ninety 
yards broad, called Cceur d'Alene River, flowed close to the hut. 
The old man and his son accompanied me. We crossed the 
river in a canoe ; after which they brought over three horses, 
and having enveloped my body in an Indian mantle of deer-skin, 
we mounted, and set off at a smart trot in an easterly direction. 
We had not proceeded more than seven miles when I felt the bad 
effects of having eaten so much salmon after so long a fast. I had 
a severe attack of indigestion, and for two hours suffered extreme 
agony ; and, but for the great attention of the kind Indians, I 
think it would have proved fatal. About an hour after recom- 
mencing our journey we arrived in a clear wood, in which, with 
joy unutterable, I observed our Canadians at work hewing 
timber. I rode between the two natives. One of our men 
named Francois Gardepie, who had been on a trading excursion, 
joined us on horseback. My deer-skin robe and sunburnt fea- 
tures completely set his powers of recognition at defiance, and 
he addressed me as an Indian. I replied in French, by asking 
him how all our people were. Poor Francois appeared 
electrified, exclaimed " Sainte Vierge !" and galloped into the 
wood, vociferating " O mes amis ! mes amis ! il est trouve ! — 
Oui, oui, il est trouve /" — " Qui ? qui ?" asked his comrades. 
" Monsieur Cox ! Monsieur Cox !". replied Francois. " Le 
voild I le voila /" pointing towards me. Away went saws, 
hatchets, and axes, and each man rushed forward to the tents, 
where we had by this time arrived. It is needless to say that 
our astonishment and delight at my miraculous escape were 
mutual. The friendly Indians were liberally rewarded ; the men 
were allowed a holyday, and every countenance bore the smile 
of joy and happiness. 



EXPLANATION. 



99 



CHAPTER IX. 

Itemarkable case of Mr. Pritchard, who was thirty-five days lost. Situation 
of Spokan House — Journey to the Flat-head lands, and description of that 
tribe — Return to Spokan House — Christmas day — Horse-eating — Spokan 
peculiarities — Articles of trade — A duel. 

Apter partaking of some refreshment we naturally reverted 
to the cause of my egaremens. It was easily explained. M r Len- 
nan and I, as already mentioned, could only get one horse 
between us. On the morning of the 17th I had ridden from 
ten o'clock until twelve, at which hour we breakfasted. Il waa 
then M'Lennan's turn to mount. The party were divided into 
three divisions, and kept up rather a straggling march while in 
the plains. Every one had his own business to mind. Those 
who set off first thought I was with the second or third division ; 
while they imagined I was with the first. In this manner they 
continued on for upwards of two hours, until it became my turn 
to ride, when M'Lennan, after galloping up and down the line 
of march missed me. On communicating the intelligence to 
Mr. Clarke, he at once ordered the whole to stop, and sent the 
Indian, with several men, back in search of me. In the mean 
time I had recovered from my summer-house dream, and had 
crossed the track by which they returned, and by that means 
missed them. On comparing the places where we slept 
the first night, we could not have been more than three miles 
asunder ; and although they fired shots repeatedly, I was not 
fortunate enough to hear any of them. The direction I took 
the second morning separated us farther ; for they went north, 
and I nearly due east ; and the two horsemen I saw on that 
evening were part of those who were scouring the country in 
quest of me. The arrangements made for my recovery were 
hastily adopted, badly carried into execution, and too soon aban- 
doned ; for after the third night, they imagined I had fallen a 
prey to the wolves, and continued on their course. On arriving 
at Spokan several other parties were sent out, but with what 
success it is needless to tell. From my youth, and consequent 
inexperience in the Indian country, the oldest voyageurs had given 
me up after the sixth day. A better knowledge of the produc- 
tions of the soil would have enabled me to obtain other wild-fruit, 
and roots, which, by contributing to my sustenance, would have 
greatly alleviated my sufferings ; but my ignorance of such as 
were wholesome and nutritious prevented me from tasting any 
thing with which I had not been oreviously acquainted. On the 



100 SIMILAR ADVENTURE TRADING POSTS. 

day before my arrival, my clothes, &c, had been sold by auc- 
tion ; all of which were, however, returned by the purchasers. 
After a few days' rest, and proper attention, X became nearly 
renovated in health, and before the end of a fortnight every 
trace of my painful privations had disappeared. 

To such as may feel disposed to doubt the accuracy of the 
foregoing statement, I beg leave to say, that Mr. Clarke, who 
then commanded the party, and who is now a member of the 
Hudson's Bay Company, and the other gentlemen who were 
with him, are still alive ; and although they cannot vouch for 
the truth of each day's detail, they can for my absence and the 
extent of my sufferings, as evinced by my emaciated appearance 
on rejoining them. I can with truth assert that I have rather 
softened down than overcharged the statement, and therefore 
trust my candid readers will acquit me of any intention to prac- 
tise on their credulity. Mine, however, was not a solitary case ; 
and the skeptical no doubt will be more surprised to learn, that 
a few years prior to this occurrence a gentleman named Prit- 
chard, who belonged to the North-west Company, while sta- 
tioned in the neighbourhood of English River, on the east side 
of the mountains, lost himself, and was thirty-five days wandering 
through the woods before he was found ! In some respects he 
was better off than I ; for he was well clothed, and from his 
experience of the country had recourse to expedients to procure 
food of which I never should have thought. He supported him- 
self for some time by setting traps for hares, a few of which he 
took in the Indian manner. He likewise made snares out of 
the hair of his head, with which he caught some small fish ; and 
he also occasionally succeeded in killing a bird. These he was 
obliged to eat raw ; and when all other resources failed, he was 
reduced to the necessity of eating grass, and a kind of moss, 
called by the Canadians tripe de rocher. He was found by 
Indians close to a small stream, endeavouring to crawl on his 
hands and feet, in a state of utter helplessness and exhaustion ; 
and for some days previous to his being discovered he had eaten 
nothing whatever. On being brought to the fort he quickly 
recovered his ordinary health, the possession of which, I am 
happy to say, he enjoys to the present moment. 

The spot selected for forming our establishment was a hand- 
some point of land, formed by the junction of the Pointed Heart 
and Spokan rivers, thinly covered with pine and other trees, 
and close to a trading post of the North-west Company, under 
the command of Mr. M'Millan, one of their clerks, who had ten 
men with him. He had two other posts detached from this : 
one about two hundred and forty miles from it in a north-east- 
erly direction, among a tribe called the Flat-heads, whose lands 



DEPARTURE MODE OF TRAVELLING. 101 

lie at the feet of the Rocky Mountains, and are well stocked 
with buffaloes ; the other about two hundred miles nearly due 
north, among a tribe called the Cootooais, in whose country 
there are plenty of heavers, deer, mountain sheep, and, at times, 
buffaloes. Mr. Finan M'Donakl, of the North-west Company, 
had charge of the post among the Flat-heads ; and a Mr. Mon- 
tour was stationed among the Cootonais. Mr. Fillet was des- 
patched with six men to oppose the latter ; and Farnham and I 
were destined for the Flat-heads. Owing to the length of time 
our men were detained at Spokan to assist in cutting down 
timber for the fort, we did not set out until the 17th of October. 
We had twelve men and fourteen loaded horses. On leaving 
Spokan, our course for four days was north-cast, and lay through 
a handsome open country, well watered, and bounded by hills 
rather thickly wooded. On the evening of the 20th we en- 
camped on the banks of a fine river, which rises in the Rocky 
Mountains, flows through the lands of the Flat-heads, Pointed 
Heart, Spokan, and Chaudiere Indians, and falls into the Colum- 
bia about nine hundred miles from the sea. Its general course 
is westerly, and it is commonly called the Flat-head River. The 
part at which we had arrived was about four hundred yards 
wide, with an easy current. As this was the spot for crossing 
to proceed to the Flat-head country, we had to construct rafts 
for that purpose ; which being prepared on the 21st, we crossed 
over, and passed all our goods and horses in safety, with the 
exception of one of the latter, which was drowned by the awk- 
wardness of the man who held the reins. The day after, the 
weather set in very cold, accompanied by snow, which continued 
almost incessantly for fourteen days. During this period our 
route lay nearly due east, through thick woods of lofty pine and 
cedar. The horses suffered dreadfully from the want of grass, 
the deep snow having completely covered the ground, and their 
only nourishment was obtained by plucking and chewing the 
branches of the adjoining trees. A detail of each day's pro- 
ceedings would be a cold and unnecessary repetition. We 
rose each morning at daybreak, loaded the horses, travelled two 
or three hours, when we stopped for breakfast ; waited an hour 
for this meal, and then continued on until four or five o'clock in 
the evening, when we stopped for the night. The path was 
narrow, and the trees covered with snow, which, from the loaded 
horses constantly coming in collision with the branches on either 
side, fell down at every moment in immense masses, annoyed 
us considerably, and greatly impeded our progress. Where the 
pine predominated, the undergrowth was so thick that we could 
not obtain sufficient space for our tent. ; but where the cedar 
prevailed, we occasionally were enabled to pitch it. This cheer- 



102 INDIAN DWELLINGS — LOG-HOUSE. 

less and gloomy march continued for fourteen days, during which 
period we seldom had a dry article of clothing on us. 

On the 4th of November we cleared the woods, and arrived 
in a large meadow of prime grass, in which we immediately 
pitched our tent, and remained for three days to refresh the 
horses. Our principal subsistence while in the woods was horse- 
flesh and boiled rice ; but here our hunters supplied us with 
some of the Rocky Mountain sheep called big-horns, the flesh 
of which is delicious, and resembles in taste Welsh mutton, but 
at this season is more delicate. From the time we quitted 
Spokan we had not seen a native. On the 7th we recommenced 
our journey eastward : the weather became more moderate, and 
the recent snows quickly vanished from the surrounding trees. 
For three days and a half our progress was through undulating 
meadows, thinly wooded, in which our hunters killed some deer. 
On the 10th we came to a small village of the Flat-head nation, 
chiefly consisting of old men, women, and children. We were 
quite charmed with their frank and hospitable reception, and 
their superiority in cleanliness over any of the tribes we had 
hitherto seen. Their lodges were conical, but very spacious, 
and were formed by a number of buffalo and moose skins 
thrown over long poles in such a manner as to keep them quite 
dry. The fire was placed in the centre, and the ground all 
around it was covered with mats and clean skins free from the 
vermin we felt so annoying at the lower parts of the Columbia. 
They had a quantity of dried buffalo, of which we purchased a 
good deal ; and as they gave us to understand that the great 
body of their tribe were in the mountains hunting, we deter- 
mined to stop here ; and accordingly set about constructing a 
log-house. The cold now became more severe, and the snow 
began again to fall heavily, which induced the men to work 
hard ; and before three weeks we had erected the frame of a 
good substantial building, which in another week was roofed in, 
and afforded a welcome shelter to the poor fellows, whose only 
covering was their blankets. 

While the house was being built many of the tribe arrived, 
from whom we purchased a number of beaver-skins. . Their 
hunt had been rather unsuccessful, and attended with disastrous 
results ; for they informed us, that after killing buffalo sufficient 
for the winter, they were surprised by their old enemies the 
Black-feet Indians (whose lands lie on the'east side of the Rocky 
Mountains), who killed several of their warriors, and took many 
prisoners. They appeared much dejected at their misfortunes ; 
and one of the chiefs seemed deeply to lament the loss of his 
wife, who had been captured with some other women by the 
enemy. Part of the tribe pitched their tents some distance 



TXAT-IIEAD RIVER RETROSPECTIONS. 103 

above us at the north-west establishment. They were passion- 
ately fond of tobacco, and while they remained with us never 
ceased smoking. Having bought all their skins, and given them 
credit for some articles until the spring, the greater part of them 
set oft' to make their winter's hunt, which their recent misfortunes 
had protracted to a very late period. When the house was 
finished I got a good canoe built of cedar planks, in which I 
embarked with six men, and taking leave of Farnham, on the 
18th of December, descended the Flat-head river on my return 
to Spokan. Our progress was slow and full of danger, from the 
great number of rapids, and the force of the current. The land 
on each side was high, and the banks in some places so precipi- 
tous, that for three nights we could not find room enough to 
make our beds on shore, and were constrained to sleep in a 
standing position, rolled up in our cloaks and blankets ; leaving 
the canoe in the water, fastened to poles driven some distance 
into the ground. On the 25th we arrived at a place where the 
river forked into four or five small channels, which afterward 
united and formed a lake about five miles long and two broad. 
We took the centre channel ; but it was full of snags, which 
broke several of the ribs of our canoe, and we were forced to 
land on a marshy island, full of small willows, and without a bit 
of dry wood to make a fire. This was a horrible situation ; and 
the state of our canoe prevented us from proceeding to the main- 
land ; so that we had no alternative but, seated on fallen trees 
and covered with our blankets, to pass the night in water up to 
our ankles. About midnight it commenced snowing, which 
continued until morning. 1 thought of my preceding Christmas 
oft' Cape Horn, and was puzzled to decide which was the most 
enviable, — a tempestuous storm in the high southern latitudes, 
after losing a couple of men — or a half-inundated island, without 
fire, at the foot of the Rocky Mountains, covered with sheets of 
snow. In my slumbers I imagined I was sitting at my father's 
table surrounded by the smiling domestic group, all anxious to 
partake of a smoking sirloin and a richly dotted plum-pudding, 
while the juvenile members recounted to each other with tri- 
umphant joy the amount of their Christmas-boxes ; but, alas ! 

Sorrow return'd with the dawning of morn, 
And the voice in my dreaming ear melted away. 

The 26th opened on us with snow-clad mountains and forests. 
With much difficulty we succeeded in patching our battered 
canoe sufficiently tight to bring us to terra firma, where we 
struck up a fire of pine, spruce, nnd cedar, that would have 
roasted a solid square of oxen. We remained here all the day, 



104 HORSE-FLESH — INTOXICATION. 

and repaired the canoe so as to enable us to proceed on the 
97th. The day after, we reached the place at which we crossed 
on our way upwards : here we left the canoe, set oft' by land 
on foot, and reached Spokan in time to partake of the new 
year's festivities. During my absence Mr. Clarke had con- 
structed a snug and commodious dwelling-house, containing 
four rooms and a kitchen ; together with a comfortable house for 
the men, and a capacious store for the furs and trading goods ; 
the whole surrounded by paling, and Hanked by two bastions 
with loopholes for musketry. I passed the remainder of the 
winter at this place ; and between hunting, fishing, reading, &c. 
we contrived to spend the time agreeably enough. We lived 
principally on deer, trout, and carp, and occasionally killed a 
fat horse, as a substitute for beef. Custom had now so far 
reconciled us to the flesh of this animal, that we often preferred 
it to what in Europe might be regarded as luxuries. Foals or 
colts are not good, although a few of our men preferred them. 
A horse for the table should not be under three years, nor above 
seven. The flesh of those which are tame, well-fed, and 
occasionally worked, is tender and firm, and the fat hard and 
white : it is far superior to the wild horse, the flesh of which is 
loose and stringy, and the fat yellow and rather oily. We 
generally killed the former for our own table ; and I can assure 
my readers, that if they sat down to a fat rib, or a rump-steak 
off a well-fed four-year-old, without knowing the animal, they 
would imagine themselves regaling on a piece of prime ox beef. 
In February we took immense quantities of carp in Spokan 
river above its junction with the Pointed-heart, and in a few 
weeks after the trout came in great abundance. 

The Spokans we found to be a quiet, honest, inoffensive tribe ; 
and although we had fortified our establishment in the manner 
above mentioned, we seldom closed the gates at night. Their 
country did not abound in furs, and they were rather indolent 
in hunting. Their chief, lUimspckanee, or the Son of the Sun, 
was a harmless old man, who spent a great portion of his time 
between us and Mr. M'Millan. We entered into a compact with 
that gentleman to abstain from giving the Indians any spirituous 
liquors, to which both parties strictly adhered. Mr. Clarke, 
who was an old trader himself, had often witnessed the baneful 
effects of giving ardent spirits to Indians, while he was in the 
service of the North-west Company, at all whose establishments 
on the east side of the Rocky Mountains it was an almost 
invariable custom. When in a state of intoxication it is quite 
impossible to check their savage propensities, and murder 
frequently is the consequence ; a remarkable instance of which 
I subsequently witnessed in my journey across the continent. 



SPOKAN INDIANS CEMETERIES. 105 

By this arrangement both parties saved themselves much trouble 
and expense, and kept the poor natives in a state of blissful 
ignorance. In other respects also we agreed very well with 
our opponent, and neither party evinced any of the turbulent 
or lawless spirit which gave so ferocious an aspect to the 
opposition of the rival companies on the east side of the 
mountains. The great object of every Indian was to obtain a 
gun. Now a good gun could not be had under twenty beaver- 
skins ; a few short ones we gave for fifteen : and some idea of 
the profit may be formed, when I state that the wholesale price 
of the gun is about one pound seven shillings, while the average 
value of twenty beaver-skins is about twenty-five pounds ! Two 
yards of cloth, which originally cost twelve shillings, would 
generally bring six or eight beavers, value eight or ten pounds ! 
and so on in proportion for other articles ; — but they were 
satisfied, and we had no cause to complain. The Spokans are 
far superior to the Indians of the coast in cleanliness ; but by 
no means equal in this respect to the Flat-heads. The women 
are good wives, and most affectionate mothers : the old, cheerful, 
and complete slaves to their families ; the young, lively and 
confiding ; and whether married or single, free from the vice 
of incontinence. Their village was situated at the point 
formed by the junction of the two rivers. Some houses were 
oblong, others conical ; and were covered with mats or skins 
according to the wealth of the proprietor. Their chief riches 
are their horses, which they generally obtain in barter from the 
Nez Perces, in return for the goods they obtain from us for their 
furs: each man is therefore the founder of his own fortune, and 
their riches or poverty are generally proportioned to their 
activity or indolence. The vice of gambling, however, is 
prevalent among them, and some are such slaves to it that they 
frequently lose all their horses. The spot where 

The rude forefathers of the hamlet sleep 

is about midway between the village and the fort, and has rather 
a picturesque effect at a distance. When a man dies, several 
horses are killed, and the skins are attached to the end of long 
poles, which are planted in the graves : the number of horses 
sacrificed is proportioned to the wealth of the individual. Besides 
the horse-skins, buffalo and deer robes, leather shirts, blankets, 
pieces of blue, green, and scarlet cloth, strips of calico, moccasins, 
provisions, warlike weapons, &c. are placed in and about the 
cemetery ; all of which they imagine will be more or less ne- 
cessary for the deceased in the world of spirits. As their lands 
are much infested by wolves, which destroy the foals, they 

N 



106 DUEL — RETURN TO ASTORIA — ROBBERY. 

cannot rear horses in such numbers as the Nez Perces, from 
whom they are obliged to purchase them annually. They never 
kill any for their own use, but felt no repugnance to eat the flesh 
at our place. As I may hereafter have occasion to speak more 
of this tribe, I shall for the present revert to the continuation of 
our proceedings. In the beginning of May, Messrs. Farnham 
and Pillet returned from their wintering posts. Their success 
exceeded our anticipations. Both Flat-heads and Cootonais 
made excellent winter hunts, and returned in the spring loaded 
with beaver. Mr. Pillet fought a duel with Mr. Montour of the 
North-west, with pocket pistols, at six paces ; both hits ; one in 
the collar of the coat, and the other in the leg of the trousers. 
Two of their men acted as seconds, and the tailor speedily 
healed their wounds. 



CHAPTER X. 



Execution of an Indian for robbery — War between Great Britain and the 
United States — Dissolution of the Pacific Fur Company — Author joins the 
North-west Company, and proceeds to the Rocky Mountains — meets a party 
and returns to the sea — Robbery of goods, and successful stratagem to re- 
cover the property — Attack at night — Dog-eating — Author and three men 
pursued by Indians — Narrow escape. 

The different parties having now assembled at Spokan House, 
we took our departure from that establishment on the 25th of 
May, on our return to Astoria, with the produce of our winter's 
trade. Mr. Pillet was left in charge of the fort with four men. 
We had twenty-eight loaded horses ; and on the 30th of May 
reached the entrance of the creek off Lewis River, where we 
had left our barge and canoes. 

In the course of this journey we passed some of the places at 
which I had slept during my wanderings in the preceding 
August. I pointed out to my fellow-travellers several heaps of 
stones which I had piled together, and on which I had scratched 
my name. 

We were detained a couple of days at the entrance of the 
creek to repair the barge and canoes, in consequence of the 
Indians having taken a quantity of nails out of the former. Our 
tents were pitched close to the village, and not suspecting any 
dishonesty on the part of the natives, we kept no watch the first 
night. Our confidence, however, was misplaced, for in the 
morning we discovered that a daring robbery had been com- 



OFFENDER DISCOVERED — CONDEMNATION. 10? 

mitted during the night. In the tent in which Mr. Clarke slept 
he kept a large garde-vin, which he had locked on retiring to 
rest, but the key of which he had omitted to take out ; the tent 
was closely fastened, and while he was asleep, the strings were 
untied, the garde- via opened, and a valuable silver goblet stolen 
thereout ! Several loose articles were also taken, and bundles 
belonging to many of the men were carried away. Mr. Clarke 
immediately assembled the principal Indians ; told them of the 
robbery ; declared if the stolen property were returned he 
would pardon the offender ; but added, if it were not, and that 
he should find the thief, he would hang him. The chief, with 
several others, promised they would use their best exertions to 
discover the delinquent and bring back the property; but the 
day passed over without tidings of cither. On the second night, 
the 31st, two sentinels were placed at each end of the camp, 
with orders to conceal themselves, and keep a sharp look out. 
Shortly after midnight they observed the figure of a man creep- 
ing slowly out of one of the tents, and carrying with him a 
bundle of clothes, a powder-horn, &c. They silently watched 
his progress, until they saw him in the act of jumping into a small 
canoe which he had in the creek, upon which they sprung for- 
ward, stopped the canoe, and seized him. We were instantly 
alarmed ; and a general search taking place, a quantity of articles 
belonging to the men were missed, together with a pistol of 
Farnham's, and a dagger of mine, all of which were stolen that 
night Most of the property was found in the canoe ; but he 
refused to give any account of the remainder. We had not the 
slightest suspicion of this man, who had been remarkably well 
treated by us ; in consequence of which, and the aggravated 
nature of the robbery, Mr. Clarke determined to put his tlireat 
into execution. He accordingly ordered a temporary gallows to 
be erected, and had the arms and legs of the culprit pinioned. 
About eight o'clock in the morning of the 1st of June he 
assembled the chief and all the Indians of the village, and made 
a short speech, in which he told them that the prisoner had 
abused his confidence, violated the rights of hospitality, and com- 
mitted an offence for which he ought to suffer death ; that from 
an anxiety to keep on good terms with all their nation he had 
overlooked many thefts committed while he had been there last 
August, which lenity, he was sorry to say, had only led to more 
daring acts of robbery ; and that, as a terror to others, and in 
order to show that it was not fear that prevented him from taking 
an earlier notice of such aggressions, he had now resolved that 
this robber should be hanged. The Indians acquiesced in this 
decision ; and the chief declared that the prisoner did not belong 
to their tribe, but was a kind of outlaw, of whom they were aD 



108 EXECUTION AUTHOR JOINS THE N. W. COMPANY. 

afraid. The gallows being now prepared, Mr. Clarke gave the 
signal, and after great resistance, during which he screamed in 
the most frightful manner, the wretched criminal was launched 
into eternity. His countrymen looked on the whole proceeding 
with the greatest unconcern ; but the unfortunate being himself 
exhibited none of that wonderful self-command, or stoical indiffer- 
ence to death which we observed in others, and for which Indians 
in general are so celebrated. By the time it was supposed life 
was extinct, Mr. M'Lennan, with three men, set off with the 
horses on his return to Spokan, and we embarked in the canoes. 
The current was swift, and we arrived early the following day 
at the mouth of Lewis River, a little below which we found the 
parties of Messrs. M'Kenzie and Stuart, where we had appointed 
to meet them on our separation the preceding autumn. From 
this place we proceeded together, and arrived at Astoria on the 
11th of June, 1813, without incurring any material accident. 
We found all our friends in good health ; but a total revolution 
had taken place in the affairs of the Company. Messrs. John 
George M'Tavish, and Joseph La Rocque, of the North-west 
Company, with two canoes and sixteen men, had arrived a few 
days before us. From these gentlemen we learned for the first 
time, that war had been declared the year before between Great 
Britain and the United States ; and that in consequence of the 
strict blockade of the American ports by British cruisers, no 
vessel would venture to proceed to our remote establishment 
during the continuation of hostilities: added to which, a trading 
vessel which had touched at the Columbia in the early part of 
the spring, had informed our people that the ship Beaver was 
blocked up in Canton. 

These unlucky and unexpected circumstances, joined to the 
impossibility of sustaining ourselves another year in the country 
without fresh supplies, which, in the then posture of affairs, it 
would be hopeless to expect, induced our proprietory to enter 
into negotiations with Mr. M'Tavish, who had been authorized 
by the North-west Company to treat with them. In a few weeks 
an amicable arrangement was made, by which Mr. M'Tavish 
agreed to purchase all the furs, merchandise, provisions, &c, of 
our company at a certain valuation, stipulating to provide a safe 
passage back to the United States, either by sea, or across the 
continent, for such members of it as chose to return ; and at the 
same time offering to those who should wish to join the North- 
west Company and remain in the country the same terms as if 
they had originally been members of that Company. Messrs. 
Ross, M'Lennon, and I, took advantage of these liberal propo- 
sals, and some time after Mr. Duncan M'Dougall, one of the 
directors, also joined the North-west. The Americans of course 



DKsi'.vTClius — KBBVOfO. 109 

preferred returning to their own country, u did also Mr. Gabriel 
Franehere,* and a few other Canadian clerks. 

The pleasure I experienced in joining an establishment, every 
member of which w;is a fellow-subject, was mingled with deep 
regret at parting from so many of my late associates, for some 
of whom I entertained a sincere regard, — a regard which I feel 
pleasure in saying was mutual, and which the difference of 
country could not diminish. My friends Clapp, Ilalsey, and 
Matthews were genuine Americans of the Washingtonian school, 
and consequently untinctured by any of the acrimonious hatred 
to the land of their forefathers, which, among a large portion of 
their countrymen, was so prevalent at that angry period. And 
though the sanguine hopes they had entertained of realizing in 
a few years an independence, were destroyed by the war, 1 
feel pleasure in being able to add that they are now happily 
flourishing in their native country. 

As Mr. M'Tavish expected despatches over-land from the 
directors at Montreal, and as it was necessary to acquaint the 
gentlemen inland with the change that affairs had taken at Astoria, 
Mr. La Rocque and I proceeded with two canoes and sixteen 
men well armed, to the interior, with orders to leave letters at 
Oakinagan and Spokan, explanatory of these circumstances, 
and thence continue on across the Rocky Mountains to Fort 
William (the great central depot at the head of Lake Superior), 
unless we met an express, in which case we were to return to 
the sea. We left Astoria on the 5th of July, and having no 
lading in our canoes, except provisions, we passed in safety the 
hostile Indians at the great rapids and falls. They were very 
numerous at the latter place : but seeing our men well armed, 
and our canoes empty, they had no idea of risking their lives 
when no plunder could be obtained. As I shall have occasion 
hereafter to give a particular description of the country about 
the upper parts of the Columbia, I shall now merely mention 
that we passed the navigable part of it, and reached the place 
where one of its sources issues out of the Rocky Mountains on 
the 2d of September, after a tedious and laborious voyage of 
two months, against a strong current. We laid up our canoe, 
and were preparing to set out on foot, when we were agreeably 
surprised by the arrival of Messrs. John Stuart, Alexander 
Stewart, and Joseph M'Gillivray, partners of the North-west 
Company, who, with twenty men, were on their way to 
Astoria, armed with full powers to join Mr. M'Tavish in pur- 
chasing the stock of the American Company. They acquainted 

* From this gentleman's knowledge of the Chinook language, Mr. M'Tavish 
made him handsome offers to join the North-west Company, which he refused. 
He however remained until the following spring. 



110 NEWS — INLAND EXPEDITION. 

us that the North-west Company's ship called the " Isaac Tod" 
sailed from London, under the convoy of a sloop of war, for the 
Columbia, and would arrive early in the autumn, with a large 
cargo for the Indian trade. These gentlemen brought several 
newspapers ; and having heard nothing from the civilized world 
for two years, we devoured their contents. Mr. M'Gillivray 
had served the preceding campaign in the American war as a 
lieutenant in the Canadian chasseurs, a corps commanded by 
his father the Hon. William M'Gillivray, and composed chiefly 
of the gentlemen and voyageurs of the North-west Company. 
He had been engaged in several smart affairs with the enemy, 
and was at the taking of Michilimackinac, at which, and other 
places, he had considerably distinguished himself. He was 
therefore our great chronicler of recent events, and during our 
passage downwards our thousand and one interrogatories seldom 
allowed his tongue half an hour's rest None but those who 
have been so long debarred from the passing scenes of the great 
world can form an idea of the greedy voracity with which 
exiles so circumstanced swallow the most trifling news. A 
remnant of a newspaper is invaluable ; and even an auction- 
eer's advertisement, or a quack-doctor's puff is read with in- 
terest. 

We reached Astoria on the 11th of October, having travelled 
from the 5th of July upwards of two thousand three hundred 
miles. We remained here till the latter end of the month, in the 
expectation of seeing the " Isaac Tod ;" but as that vessel did 
not arrive, the proprietors determined to send a strong party to 
the interior with a supply of such goods as the fort could furnish 
for the winter's trade. The necessary arrangements being com- 
pleted, we set off on the 29th of October. Our party consisted 
of Messrs. John Stuart, Donald Mackenzie, Joseph M'Gillivray, 
La Rocque, M'Donald, Read, and the author, with fifty-five men. 
On arriving at the first rapids few Indians made their appearance ; 
and from their peaceable demeanour, we did not think it neces- 
sary to observe our usual caution in guarding the portages. We 
passed the first unmolested, and had carried about one-third of 
the goods over the second when we were alarmed by a loud cry, 
and immediately after one of the men appeared, and stated that 
he and another man had been attacked by a large party of the 
natives, who had knocked them down, and robbed them of two 
bales of dry goods, with which they made off into the woods, 
and that he feared others of the men would also be attacked. 
Orders were immediately despatched to Messrs. La Rocque and 
M'Gillivray, who were at the foot of the portage, to advance 
with a few of their men, while Mr. John Stuart and I, with ten 
men, proceeded from the upper end. Mr. M'Donald remained 



INDIAN ATTACK PARLEY — STRATAGEM. HI 

in charge at one end, and Mr. Donald Mackenzie at the 
other. 

On arriving about the middle of the portage, where the village 
was situated, we found the pathway guarded by fifty or sixty 
Indians, with their war-shirts on, and fully armed, apparently 
determined to dispute the passage. The moment they perceived 
our approach they placed their arrows in their bows, which they 
presented at us, at the same time jumping like kangaroos 
backwards and forwards, and from right to left, in such a manner 
as to render it almost impossible to take a steady aim at any of 
them. In our hurry we had not time to put on our leathern 
armour, and from the hostile appearance of the savages, some of 
our men declared they would not advance a step farther. Mr. 
Stuart shortly addressed them, pointing out the dangerous situa- 
tion in which we were placed, between two portages ; that if 
the enemy observed the least symptom of fear, they would 
become the assailants, in which case we could neither advance 
nor retreat, and must ultimately be cut off, adding at the same 
time he would do every thing in his power to avoid coming to 
extremities ; but that, above all things, it was absolutely neces- 
sary to show them the most determined front. The men here- 
upon consented to fight. He then informed the Indians that he 
did not wish to fight — but that if the stolen goods were not 
returned, the white men would destroy their village and take all 
their property. We were imperfectly acquainted with their 
language, and they either did not, or affected not to understand 
the meaning of his address ; for they still continued their kan- 
garoo movements with their arrows presented, preserving at the 
same time the strictest silence. We were somewhat puzzled at 
this conduct ; but as we were anxious to avoid bloodshed, and 
at the same time to recover the stolen property, Mr. Stuart 
judged it prudent to wait the arrival of the other party. In a 
few seconds Messrs. La Rocque and M'Gillivray with their men 
appeared at the rear of the Indians, who were thus placed 
between two fires : but they had the sagacity to perceive that 
we could not act on the offensive without endangering our own 
lives. About one-half of them, therefore, quickly turned round, 
and by this movement presented a hostile front to each of our 
small parties. During this time none of their old men, women, 
or children, made their appearance ; and as Mr. Stuart supposed 
they had been conveyed from the village, he requested Mr. La 
Rocque to advance with a few of his men into the wood on his 
right, and at the same time sent me with five of our party to the left, 
ordering each of us to seize all men, women, and children we could 
find, for the purpose of detaining them as hostages until the pro- 
perty should be returned. Messrs. Stuart and M'Gillivray, with 



1 12 CAPTIVES RESTITUTION. 

the remainder of the men, still kept possession of the pathway 
in front and rear of the village, and the enemy for some time 
were ignorant of the ruse de guerre we had adopted. I pro- 
ceeded about forty yards in an oblique direction to the left, 
with my party, when we imagined we heard voices before us : 
we therefore advanced slowly and cautiously a few paces farther, 
until we arrived at a large rock. I sent three men round one 
end of it, and proceeded myself with the remaining two round 
the other ; and, as we turned the left corner, we perceived three 
old men, with several women and children, sitting round a fire ; 
some of whom were sharpening iron and flint heads for arrows, 
which, after being heated in the fire, were clipped into a wooden 
bowl containing a thick blackish liquid. On observing us they 
attempted to escape, when the other three men appeared. We 
instantly seized their armory, and took two of the old men, three 
women, and some children prisoners. They were much fright- 
ened, and thought we would put them to death, but on our 
explaining that they would sustain no injury if our goods were 
returned, they appeared more tranquil, and came with us quietly 
until we reached Mr. Stuart, who was still in the same situation. 
La Rocque was equally fortunate, and had captured an old man, 
four women, and five children, on his side of the wood, with 
whom he had just appeared in sight as my party arrived. 

The warriors were quite staggered at finding we had made so 
many prisoners, and fearing we might follow their own mode, 
which was either to kill them or make them slaves, they at once 
laid down their arms, and offered to go in search of the bales, 
provided we would liberate the prisoners. Mr. Stuart replied 
that none of them would be injured, but that they should remain 
in custody until the property was restored and our people safely 
over the portage. A guard was then stationed over the prison- 
ers, and word was sent to M'Donald to order his men to 
recommence the carriage of the goods ; during the progress of 
which we kept up a chain of sentinels en route. By the time we 
had nearly finished, three of the Indians, whose wives were cap- 
tives, brought a great part of the contents of the bales, which 
they alleged they took by force from the thieves, who had cut 
open the envelopes and concealed the remainder; and they 
therefore hoped we would allow their relations to return home. 
Mr. Stuart told them he was determined not to allow one of 
them to stir until every article that had been stolen was brought 
back. The eldest of the three declared that it was very unjust 
of the white men to punish him and his relations for the dishon- 
esty of others, and that when he expected a reward for his 
exertions in bringing back so much property, he found his wife 
and children were to be detained as slaves. All this appeared 



MIDNIGHT ATTACK ENEMY REPULSED. 113 

very plausible ; but we recognised this very fellow as one of the 
most prominent and active of the aimed band, and apparently 
their leader. 

He made some farther remonstrances to the same elfect ; but 
finding we were inflexible, he went away with his two com- 
panions ; and in about half an hour after returned, accompanied 
by several others, with the remainder of the stolen property. 
They alleged the thieves had run away, and on asking them for 
their chief, they said he was absent. The canoes having been 
now laden, Mr. Stuart told them that he should release their 
friends and relations for this time, but that if another attempt 
was ever made, the white people would punish them severely ; 
and as a mark of his anger at their late conduct, he would not 
then give them the usual gratuity of tobacco. The prisoners 
were then released, and we pushed off'. As it was rather late, 
we could not advance more than three miles, when we encamped 
in a small cove on the left side, behind which was a thick wood 
of hazel, beech, and pine. We had a large fire at each end of 
the camp ; and the party was divided into two watches. The 
forepart of the night passed off' quietly ; but about two o'clock 
in the morning wo were alarmed by one of the flank sentinels 
being brought to the centre wounded. lie stated that he and 
two of his comrades had approached the fire for the purpose of 
lighting their pipes, when several arrows were discharged at 
them from the wood, one of which wounded him in the left 
arm : upon hearing which Messrs. La Rocque and M' Donald, 
who commanded the watch, fired into the wood. The tents 
were immediately struck, and the men ordered to withdraw 
from the fires and concentrate themselves behind the canoes. 
About ten minutes afterward a shower of arrows was dis- 
charged from the same place, followed by loud yells ; but some 
passed over our heads, while others were intercepted by the 
canoes, in which they remained fast. The two watches were 
now ordered to fire a volley alternately, and load immediately. 
The first discharge caused much rustling among the leaves and 
branches ; the second, as we supposed, completely dislodged 
them, and from moans heard from the retreating savages we 
had reason to think that some of our balls took effect. It was a 
cold damp morning, and what between the fatigues and dangers 
of the preceding day, fear, chillness, and the want of sleep, our 
men did not seem much disposed for fighting. Mr. Stuart 
therefore ordered each man a double allowance of rum, " to 
make his courage cheerie," and the moment daylight began to 
dawn the canoes were thrown into the water, and the lading 
immediately commenced. 

The canoe-men embarked first, and we followed. The last 

O 



114 SCARCITY OF PROVISIONS EXPERIMENTAL EXCURSION. 

man on shore was a celebrated half-bred hunter, named Pierre 
Michel, and just as he was about stepping into his canoe, one of 
the men perceived a tall Indian emerge from the wood, and 
bend his bow : he had scarcely time to warn Michel of his 
danger ere the arrow winged its flight, and completely pierced 
his hat, in which it remained fixed. Michel instantly turned 
round, and as the savage retreated into the wood, fired, and hit 
him somewhere about the knee. He then sprung into thercanoe ; 
we discharged a few more shots, pushed off, and paddled quickly 
to the opposite side. From the grayish twilight of the morning 
we had only an imperfect view of the Indian; but the men who 
had the best opportunity of seeing him were of opinion that he 
was the same who had expostulated the day before about the 
detention of his wife, after he had brought back part of the 
goods. We landed about ten miles farther up on the right side, 
on an open point ; and as the canoes wanted repairing, and the 
men stood in need of repose, it was deemed expedient to remain 
there during the day. I forgot to mention that one of our 
Iroquois hunters sucked the wound which the man had received 
from the arrow in the arm : this probably saved the poor fellow's 
life, as we had reason to think the arrow was poisoned. The 
day after the arm became quite black from the wrist to the 
shoulder ; but, by the use of caustic applications, the dangerous 
symptoms were dispersed, and in a few weeks he recovered his 
ordinary health. 

From this place to the narrows and falls we saw no Indians ; 
but at the latter we found about fifteen lodges of the Eneeshurs. 
As our provisions were nearly consumed we were obliged to 
purchase twenty dogs from them. It was the first time I had 
eaten any of the flesh of this animal, and nothing but stern 
necessity could have induced me to partake of it. The president 
of our mess called it mutton, which it somewhat resembles in 
taste. We generally had it roasted, but the Canadians preferred 
it boiled, and the majority of them seemed to think it superior 
to horse-flesh. In this, however, I entirely differ from them, for 
the latter is a cleaner animal, and in taste bears a stronger 
resemblance to beef than the dog does to mutton. The natives 
behaved themselves quietly, and did not show any disposition to 
pilfer. 

From hence to the Wallah Wallah river we obtained no horses, 
and our chief support consisted of one hundred and fifty dogs, 
which we purchased at the different villages. The Wallah 
Wallahs received us in their usual friendly manner, and we 
purchased from them about twenty good horses. 

Mr. Read, accompanied by eight men (excellent hunters), 
left us here on an experimental journey to the country of the 



FORTUNATE ESCAPE. 115 

Shoshone or Snake Indians, on whose lands lie had seen great 
quantities of beaver in the course of his journey across the 
continent With Mr. Hunt. His party took sixteen of the horses 
with them. 

After leaving this place the weather set in very cold, accom- 
panied by occasional showers of snow, and we became appre- 
hensive that we should encounter much difficulty in reaching 
our various wintering posts. We therefore stopped at a village 
a short distance above Lewis River, on the south side of the 
Columbia ; where, with hard bargaining, and after giving an 
exorbitant price, we obtained six horses. With these and 
three men I was ordered to proceed across the country to 
Spokan House, for the purpose of bringing down a sufficient 
number of the Company's horses to Oakinagan, where the 
canoes were to stop, the trading goods having to be conveyed 
from thence by land-carriage to their respective winter desti- 
nations. 

Two of the horses carried our provisions and blankets ; and 
as we learned from the Wallah Wallahs that the relations of the 
Indian who had been hanged by Mr. Clarke in the spring were 
in the plains, and had declared their determination to have 
satisfaction for his death, we got particular orders not to separate, 
or on any account to tire our horses by deer-hunting. I made 
the men change their muskets for short trading guns, about the 
size of carbines ; with which, a brace of pistols, and a dagger 
each, we set out on our over-land journey. The two first days 
we passed in hard galloping, without meeting any thing worth 
noticing ; but about ten o'clock on the morning of the third day, 
as we were preparing to remount after breakfast, we observed 
three Indians about a mile distant, advancing from the direction 
of Lewis River. They were mounted, and, on perceiving us, 
stopped a few minutes in order to ascertain our numbers. We 
did not like this : and made signs to them to approach, which 
they affected not to understand : but after reconnoitring us some 
time, and making themselves certain that our number did not 
exceed four, they wheeled about and galloped back in the same 
direction. Being now of opinion that their intentions were not 
friendly, we increased our speed, and for upwards of three hours 
none of them made their appearance. Our horses being nearly 
exhausted, we slackened the reins for about half an hour, after 
putting two of the most jaded under the saddle-bags. This rest 
brought them to again, and probably saved us; for about two 
o'clock we observed large clouds of dust in a south-westerly 
direction, which, on clearing away, displayed to our view 
between thirty and forty of the savages on horseback in pursuit 
of us. Sauve qui pent was now the cry ; and as the two spare 



110 SKIRMISH FORTUNATE RELIEF. 

horses with the saddle-bags retarded our escape, we left them 
behind, and galloped away for our lives. The enemy gradually 
gained on us ; but we observed that the greater number had 
fallen back, or given up the pursuit, and at the end of two hours 
only ten were in sight. Still we did not think ourselves a match 
for them ; but shortly after their numbers were reduced to eight, 
apparently well mounted and armed. Our horses began to 
totter, and it became quite evident could not proceed much 
farther at such a rate. I knew the men were made of good 
materials, and therefore proposed to them to dismount, take our 
station behind the horses, and when our pursuers came within 
the range of our shot, each to cover his man, and fire ; after 
which, if we had not time to reload, we could work with our 
pistols. They all agreed ; but the moment the enemy perceived 
us dismount and take up our position, they at once guessed our 
object, and turned about for the purpose of retreating. We 
instantly fired, and two of their horses fell : their riders quickly 
mounted behind their companions, and in a short time disap- 
peared. We were now quite overjoyed at seeing the horse with 
our provisions gallop up to us ; but the other, which carried our 
blankets was, 1 suppose, captured. The report of our firearms 
brought us much more important relief, by the appearance of 
ten young hunters belonging to the Spokan nation, with every 
one of whom we were well acquainted, and on whose hunting- 
grounds we then were. On telling them of our escape, they 
were quite indignant, and declared that, although they were 
not at war with the Nez Perces Indians, they would willingly 
join us in pursuit of them, and chastise them for their presump- 
tion in following their white friends to their hunting-grounds ; 
adding that they knew their chiefs heart would be glad at any 
assistance they could render us. I thanked them for their 
friendly offer, which I declined ; assigning as a reason, that we 
wished to live on good terms with all the nations, and that I had 
no doubt we should be able to convince the foolish people who 
had lately pursued us of the impolicy of their conduct towards 
the whites. We proceeded about ton miles farther that evening, 
and slept in company with the Spokans, who kept watch in turn 
during the night. The following day, the 21st of November, 
two of them accompanied us, and we arrived at the fort about 
four in the evening, without meeting anv farther danger. 



J0URNET TO OAKINAOAN INSTRUCTIONS. 117 



CHAPTER XI. 

Author proceeds to Oakinagan, and thence to the Flat-heads, where he passes 
the winter — Cruel treatment of the Black-feet prisoners bj the Flat-heada 
— Horrible spectacle — Bulfalo the cause of war between the two tribes — 
Women — Government — Peace and war chiefs — Wolves — Anecdote of a dog 
— Syrup of birch — Surgical and medical knowledge of Flat-heads — Re- 
markable cure of rheumatism — Their ideas of a future .state ; and curious 
tradition respecting the beavers — Name of Flat-head a misnomer — A mar- 
riage. 

As despatch was necessary, owing to the lateness 01 me season, 
I remained only one night at Spokan House, and set off early 
in the morning of the 22d November for Oakinagan. I took 
two additional men with me and fifty horses. The road was 
good, the distance about one hundred and fifty miles, and no 
danger to be apprehended from Indians. Having plenty of 
horses to change, we went on briskly ; and on the evening of 
the 25th arrived at the Columbia, opposite the entrance of Oak- 
inagan river, where the fort was built. On crossing over I found 
that the northern parties had set off for their wintering quarters ; 
and as I was appointed to take charge of those intended for the 
eastern posts, I slept only that night at Oakinagan, and the next 
morning (the 26th) had all the goods transported across the 
river. The following is an extract from the letter of instructions 
directed to me on this occasion, the whole of which is rather 
lengthy and uninteresting for insertion : — 

" On your arrival here, you will assume the immediate man- 
agement of the brigade, and every thing else during the voyage ;* 
and make the best of your way to Spokan House, where you 
will make as little delay as possible. From thence you will 
proceed to join Mr. M'Millan at the Flat-heads ; and if you are 
reduced to eat horses, either at Spokan or farther on, they ought 
to be the worst." The iiberal writer of this economical advice 
was in other respects a very worthy, good-natured individual, 
and in his own person evinced the most Spartan contempt for 
the good things of the table. Tobacco was his mistress ; and 
from the moment he rose until he retired to rest, his calumet 
was seldom allowed to cool. I was not, however, philosopher 
enough to prefer the intoxicating fumes of the Virginian weed 
to the substantial enjoyment of fat and lean ; and candidly con- 

* This word is used generally in the Indian country for all terraqueous 
journeys ; and voyngeurt is the term applied to the Canadian canoemen. 



118 TIMELY ARRIVAL TREATMENT OF CAPTIVES. 

fess, that in my choice of horses for the kettle, I wilfully de- 
parted from my instructions by selecting those whose ribs were 
least visible. 

We arrived safely at Spokan, at which place I slept one night, 
and then continued on for the Flat-heads with eight men and 
twelve loaded horses. We pursued the same route I had fol- 
lowed the preceding winter with my friend Farnham, through 
the thick woods along the banks of the Flat-head river ; and 
after suffering great hardships from cold and snow, reached Mr. 
M'Millan on the 24th of December, with the loss of two horses, 
which we were obliged to leave in the woods from exhaustion. 
The fort was about forty miles higher up in an easterly direction 
than the place Farnham and I had chosen for the log-house. It 
had a good trading store, a comfortable house for the men, and 
a snug box for ourselves ; all situated on a point formed by the 
junction of a bold mountain torrent with the Flat-head river, and 
surrounded on all sides with high and thickly wooded hills, cov- 
ered with pine, spruce, larch, beech, birch, and cedar. A large 
band of the Flat-head warriors were encamped about the fort 
They had recently returned from the buffalo country, and had 
revenged their defeat of the preceding year by a signal victory 
over their enemies the Black-feet, several of whose warriors, 
with their women, they had taken prisoners. M'Millan's tobacco 
and stock of trading goods had been entirely expended previous 
to my arrival, and the Indians were much in want of ammuni- 
tion, &c. My appearance, or I should rather say, the goods I 
brought with me, was therefore a source of great joy to both 
parties. The natives smoked the much-loved weed for several 
days successively. Our hunters killed a few mountain sheep, 
and I brought up a bag of flour, a bag of rice, plenty of tea and 
coffee, some arrowroot, and fifteen gallons of prime rum. We 
spent a comparatively happy Christmas, and by the side of a 
blazing fire in a warm room, forgot the sufferings we endured 
in our dreary progress through the woods. There was, how- 
ever, in the midst of our festivities, a great drawback from the 
pleasure we should otherwise have enjoyed. I allude to the 
unfortunate Black-feet who had been captured by the Flat- 
heads. Having been informed that they were about putting 
one of their prisoners to death, I went to their camp to witness 
the spectacle. The man was tied to a tree ; after which they 
heated an old barrel of a gun until it became red hot, with which 
they burned him on the legs, thighs, neck, cheeks, and belly. 
They then commenced cutting the flesh from about the nails, 
which they pulled out, and next separated the fingers from the 
hand joint by joint. During the performance of these cruelties 
the wretched captive never winced, and instead of suing for 



HORRIBLE CRUELTIES REMONSTRANCE. 119 

mercy, he added fresh stimulants to their barbarous ingenuity 
by the most irritating reproaches, part of which our interpreter 
translated as follows: — " My heart is strong. — You do not hurt 
me. — You can't hurt me. — You are fools. — You do not know 
how to torture. — Try it again. — I don't feel any pain yet. — We 
torture your relations a great deal better, because we make 
them cry out loud, like little children. — You are not brave : you 
have small hearts, and you are always afraid to fight." Then 
addressing one in particular, he said, " It was by my arrow you 
lost your eye ;" upon which the Flat-head darted at him, and 
with a knife in a moment scooped out one of his eyes ; at the 
same time cutting the bridge of his nose nearly in two. This 
did not stop him : with the remaining eye he looked sternly at 
another, and said, u I killed your brother, and I scalped your old 
fool of a father." The warrior to whom this was addressed 
instantly sprung at him, and separated the scalp from his head. 
He was then about plunging a knife in his heart, until he was 
told by the chief to desist. The raw scull, bloody socket, and 
mutilated nose now presented an horrific appearance, but by no 
means changed his tone of defiance. " It was I," said he to the 
chief, " that made your wife a prisoner last fall ; — we put out 
her eyes ; — we tore out her tongue ; — we treated her like a dog. 
Forty of our young warriors — " 

The chieftain became incensed the moment his wife's name 
was mentioned : he seized his gun, and, before the last 
sentence was ended, a ball from it passed through the brave 
fellow's heart, and terminated his frightful sufferings. Shocking, 
however, as this dreadful exhibition w r as, it was far exceeded by 
the atrocious cruelties practised on the female prisoners; in which, 
I am sorry to say, the Flat-head women assisted with more savage 
fury than the men. I only witnessed part of what one wretched 
young woman suffered, a detail of which would be too revolting 
for publicity. We remonstrated against the exercise of such 
horrible cruelties. They replied by saying the Black-feet treated 
their relations in the same manner; that it was the course 
adopted by all red warriors ; and that they could not think of 
giving up the gratification of their revenge to the foolish and 
womanish feelings of white men. Shortly after this we observed 
a young female led forth, apparently not more than fourteen or 
fifteen years of age, surrounded by some old women, who were 
conducting her to one end of the village, whither they were fol- 
low > c I 1 >y a number of young men. Having learned the infamous 
intentions of her conquerors, and feeling interested for the unfor- 
tunate victim, we renewed our remonstrances,but received nearly 
the same answer as before. Finding them still inflexible, and 
wishing to adopt every means in our power consistent with safety 



120 DECREASE OF POPULATION ANNUAL CONFLICTS. 

in the cause of humanity, we ordered our interpreter to acquaint 
them, that, highly as we valued their friendship, and much as we 
esteemed their furs, we would quit their country for ever unless they 
discontinued their unmanly and disgraceful cruelties to their pri- 
soners. This had the desired effect, and the miserable captive was 
led back to her sorrowing group of friends. Our interference 
was nearly rendered ineffectual by the furious reproaches of the 
infernal old priestesses who had been conducting her to the sacri- 
fice. They told the young warriors they were cowards, fools, 
and had not the hearts of fleas ; and called upon them in the 
names of their mothers, sisters, and wives, to follow the steps of 
their forefathers, and have their revenge on the dogs of Black- 
feet. They began to waver ; but we affected not to understand 
what the old women had been saying. We told them that this 
act of self-denial on their part was peculiarly grateful to the 
white men ; and that by it they would secure our permanent 
residence among them, and in return for their furs be always 
furnished with guns and ammunition sufficient to repel the 
attacks of their old enemies, and preserve their relations from 
beiii" made prisoners. This decided the doubtful ; and the chief 
promised faithfully that no more tortures should be inflicted on 
the prisoners, which I believe was rigidly adhered to, at least 
for that winter. 

The Flat-heads were formerly much more numerous than they 
were at this period ; but owing to the constant hostilities between 
them and the Black-feet Indians, their numbers had been greatly 
diminished. While pride, policy, ambition, self-preservation, or 
the love of aggrandizement, often deluges the civilized world 
with Christian blood ; the only cause assigned by the natives of 
whom I write, for their perpetual warfare, is their love of buf- 
falo. There are extensive plains to the eastward of the moun- 
tains frequented in the summer and autumnal months by nume- 
rous herds of buffaloes. Hither the rival tribes repair to hunt 
those animals, that they may procure as much of their meat as 
will supply them until the succeeding season. In these excursions 
they often meet, and the most sanguinary conflicts follow. 

The Black-feet lay claim to all that part of the country imme- 
diately at the foot of the mountains, which is most frequented by 
the buffalo ; and allege that the Flat-heads, by resorting thither 
to hunt, arc intruders whom they are bound to oppose on all 
occasions. The latter, on the contrary, assert, that their fore- 
fathers had always claimed and exercised the right of hunting 
on these " debateable lands ;" and that while one of their war- 
riors remained alive the right should not be relinquished. The 
consequences of these continual wars arc dreadful, particularly 
to the Flat-heads, who, being the weaker in numbers, were gene- 



INDIAN WARFARE THE FLAT-HEADS. 121 

rally the greater sufferers. Independently of their inferiority in 
this respect, their enemy had another great advantage in the use 
of firearms, which they obtained from the Company's trading posts 
established in the department of Forts dcs Prairies. To these 
the Flat-heads had nothing to oppose but arrows and their own 
undaunted bravery. Every year previous to our crossing the 
mountains witnessed the gradual diminution of their numbers ; 
and total annihilation would shortly have been the consequence, 
but for our arrival with a plentiful supply of "villanous salt- 
petre." They were overjoyed at having an opportunity of pur- 
chasing arms and ammunition, and quickly stocked themselves 
with a sufficient quantity of both. 

From this moment affairs took a decided change in their 
favour ; and in their subsequent contests the numbers of killed, 
wounded, and prisoners were more equal. The Black-feet 
became enraged at this, and declared to our people at Forts 
des Prairies, that all white men who might happen to fall into 
their hands, to the westward of the mountains, would be treated 
by them as enemies, in consequence of their furnishing the Flat- 
heads with weapons, which were used with such deadly effect 
against their nation. This threat, as will appear hereafter, was 
strictly put in execution. The lands of the Flat-heads are well 
stocked with deer, mountain sheep, bears, wild-fowl, and fish ; 
and when we endeavoured to induce them to give up such dan- 
gerous expeditions, and confine themselves to the produce of their 
own country, they replied, that their fathers had always hunted 
on the buffalo grounds ; that they were accustomed to do the 
same thing from their infancy ; and they would not now 
abandon a practice which had existed for several generations 
among their people. 

With the exception of the cruel treatment of their prisoners 
(which, as it is general among all savages, must not be imputed 
to them as a peculiar vice), the Flat-heads have fewer failings 
than any of the tribes I ever met with. They are honest in 
their dealings, brave in the field, quiet and amenable to their 
chiefs, fond of cleanliness, and decided enemies to falsehood of 
every description. The women are excellent wives and mothers, 
and their character for fidelity is so well established, that we 
never heard an instance of one of them proving unfaithful to her 
husband. They are also free from the vice of backbiting, so 
common among the lower tribes ; and laziness is a stranger 
among them. Both sexes are comparatively very fair, and their 
complexions are a shade lighter than the palest new copper after 
being freshly rubbed. They are remarkably well made, rather 
slender, and never corpulent. The dress of the men consists 
solely of long leggings, called mittasses by the Canadians, which 

P 



122 CHARACTER AND DRESS — SUBORDINATION. 

reach from the ancles to the hips, and are fastened by strings to 
a leathern belt round the waist, and a shirt of dressed deer-skin, 
with loose hanging sleeves, which falls down to their knees. The 
outside seams of the leggings and shirt sleeves have fringes of 
leather. The women are covered by a loose robe of the same 
material reaching from the neck to the feet, and ornamented with 
fringes, beads, hawk-bells, and thimbles. The dresses of both 
are regularly cleaned with pipe-clay, which abounds in parts of 
the country; and every individual has two or three changes. 
They have no permanent covering for the head, but in wet or 
stormy weather shelter it by part of a buffalo robe, which com- 
pletely answers all the purposes of a surtout. The principal 
chief of the tribe is hereditary; but from their constant wars, 
they have adopted the wise and salutary custom of electing, as 
their leader in battle, that warrior in whom the greatest portion 
of wisdom, strength, and bravery are combined. The election 
takes place every year ; and it sometimes occurs that the general 
in one campaign becomes a private in the next. This " war-chief," 
as they term him, has no authority whatever when at home, and 
is as equally amenable as any of the tribe to the hereditary chief; 
but when the warriors set out on their hunting excursions to the 
buffalo plains, he assumes the supreme command, which he 
exercises with despotic sway until their return. He carries a 
long whip, with a thick handle, decorated with scalps and feathers, 
and generally appoints two active warriors as aides-de-camp. 
On their advance towards the enemy he always takes the lead ; 
and on their return he brings up the rear. Great regularity is 
preserved during the march ; and I have been informed by Mr. 
M'Donald, who accompanied some of these war parties to the 
field of action, that if any of the tribe fell out of the ranks, or 
committed any other breach of discipline, he instantly received 
a flagellation from the whip of the chieftain. He always acted 
with the most perfect impartiality, and would punish one of his 
subalterns for disobedience of orders with equal severity as any 
other offender. Custom, however, joined to a sense of public 
duty, had reconciled them to these arbitrary acts of power, which 
they never complained of or attempted to resent. After the 
conclusion of the campaign, on their arrival on their own lands, 
his authority ceases ; when the peace-chief calls all the tribe 
together, and they proceed to a new election. There is no 
canvassing, caballing, or intriguing ; and should the last leader 
be superseded, he retires from office with apparent indifference, 
and without betraying any symptoms of discontent. The fighting 
chief at this period had been five times re-elected. He was 
about thirty-five years of age, and had killed twenty of the Black- 
feet in various battles, the scalps of whom were suspended in 



THE WAR-CHIEF. 123 

triumphal pride from a pole at the door of his lodge. His wife 
had been captured by the enemy the year before, and her loss 
made a deep impression on him. He was highly respected by 
all the warriors for his superior wisdom and bravery; a con- 
sciousness of which, joined to the length of time he had been 
accustomed to command, imparted to his manners a degree of 
dignity which we never remarked in any other Indian. He 
would not take a second wife ; and when the recollection of the 
one he had lost came across his mind, he retired into the deepest 
solitude of the woods to indulge his sorrow, where some of 
the tribe informed us they often found him calling on her spirit 
to appear, and invoking vengeance on her conquerors. When 
these bursts of grief subsided, his countenance assumed a tinge 
of stern melancholy, strongly indicating the mingled emotions of 
sorrow and unmitigated hatred of the Black-feet. We invited 
him sometimes to the fort, upon which occasions we sympathized 
with him on his loss ; but at the same time acquainted him with 
the manner in which civilized nations made war. We told him 
that warriors only were made prisoners, who were never tortured 
or killed, and that no brave white man would ever injure a female 
or a defenceless man ; that if such a custom had prevailed among 
them, he would now by the exchange of prisoners be able to 
recover his wife, who was by their barbarous system lost to him 
for ever; and if it were impossible to bring about a peace with 
their enemies, the frightful horrors of war might at least be con- 
siderably softened by adopting the practice of Europeans. We 
added that he had now a glorious opportunity of commencing 
the career of magnanimity, by sending home uninjured the cap- 
tives he had made during the last campaign; that our friends on 
the other side of the mountains would exert their influence with 
the Black-feet to induce them to follow his example; and that 
ultimately it might be the means of uniting the two rival nations 
in the bonds of peace. He was at first opposed to making any 
advances ; but on farther pressing he consented to make the triaL 
provided the hereditary chief and the tribe started no objections. 
On quitting us he made use of the following words : " My white 
friends, you do not know the savage nature of the Black-feet ; 
they hope to exterminate our tribe ; they are a great deal more 
numerous than we are ; and were it not for our bravery, their 
object would have been long ago achieved. We shall now, 
according to your wishes, send back the prisoners ; but remem- 
ber, I tell you, that they will laugh at the interference of your 
relations beyond the mountains, and never spare a man, woman, 
or child, that they can take of our nation. Your exertions to 
save blood show you are good people. If they follow our 



124 PACIFIC OVERTURE CROSS-BRED DOG. 

example, we shall kill no more prisoners ; but I tell you, they 
will laugh at you and call you fools." 

We were much pleased at having carried our point so far ; 
while he, true to his word, assembled the elders and warriors, 
to whom he represented the subject of our discourse, and after 
a long speech, advised them to make the trial, which would 
please their white friends, and show their readiness to avoid 
unnecessary cruelty. Such an unexpected proposition gave 
rise to an animated debate, which continued for some time ; 
but being supported by a man for whom they entertained so 
much respect, it was finally carried ; and it was determined to 
send home the Black-feet on the breaking up of the winter. 
We undertook to furnish them with horses and provisions for 
their journey, or to pay the Flat-heads a fair price for so doing. 
This was agreed to, and about the middle of March the prisoners 
took their departure tolerably well mounted, and with dried 
meat enough to bring them to their friends. Mr. M'Millan, 
who had passed three years in their country, and was acquainted 
with their language, informed them of the exertions we had used 
to save their lives, and prevent farther repetitions of torture ; 
and requested them particularly to mention the circumstance to 
their countrymen, in order that they might adopt a similar pro- 
ceeding. We also wrote letters by them to the gentlemen in 
charge of the different establishments at Forts des Prairies, 
detailing our success, and impressing on them the necessity of 
their attempting to induce the Black-feet in their vicinity to 
follow the example set them by the Flat-heads. The lands of 
this tribe present a pleasing diversity of woods and plains, 
valleys and mountains, lakes and rivers. Besides the animals 
already mentioned, there are abundance of beavers, otters, 
martens, wolves, lynxes, &c. 

The wolves of this district are very large and daring ; and 
were in great numbers in the immediate vicinity of the fort, to 
which they often approached closely for the purpose of carrying 
away the offals. We had a fine dog of mixed breed, whose 
sire was a native of Newfoundland, and whose dam was a wolf, 
which had been caught young, and domesticated by Mr. La 
Rocque, at Lac la Ronge, on the English River. He had many 
rencounters with his maternal tribe, in which he was generally 
worsted. On observing a wolf near the fort, he darted at it 
with great courage : if it was a male, he fought hard ; but if a 
female, he either allowed it to retreat harmless, or commenced 
fondling it. He sometimes was absent for a week or ten days ; 
and on his return, his body and neck appeared gashed with 
wounds inflicted by the tusks of his male rivals in their amorous 



PHARMACY COLD BATHING. 125 

encounters in the woods. He was a noble animal, but always 
appeared more ready to attack a wolf than a lynx. 

Our stock of sugar and molasses having failed, we were 
obliged to have recourse to the extract of birch to supply the 
deficiency. This was obtained by perforating the trunks of the 
birch-trees in different places. Small slips of bark were then 
introduced into each perforation, and underneath kettles were 
placed to receive the juice. This was afterward boiled down 
to the consistency of molasses, and was used with our tea as a 
substitute for sugar : it is a bitter sweet, and answered its pur- 
pose tolerably well. 

The Flat-heads are a healthy tribe, and subject to few dis- 
eases. Common fractures, caused by an occasional pitch off a 
horse, or a fall down a declivity in the ardour of hunting, are 
cured by tight bandages and pieces of wood like staves placed 
longitudinally around the part, to which they are secured by 
leathern thongs. For contusions they generally bleed, either in 
the temples, arms, wrists, or ankles, with pieces of sharp flint, 
or heads of arrows : they however preferred being bled with 
the lancet, and frequently brought us patients, who were much 
pleased with that mode of operation. Very little snow fell after 
Christmas ; but the cold was intense, with a clear atmosphere. 
I experienced some acute rheumatic attacks in the shoulders 
and knees, from which I suffered much annoyance. An old 
Indian proposed to relieve me, provided I consented to follow 
the mode of cure practised by him in similar cases on the young 
warriors of the tribe. On inquiring the method he intended to 
pursue, he replied that it merely consisted in getting up early 
every morning for some weeks, and plunging into the river, and 
to leave the rest to him. This was a most chilling proposition, 
for the river was firmly frozen, and an opening to be made in 
the ice preparatory to each immersion. 1 asked him, " Would 
it not answer equally well to have the water brought to my bed- 
room ?" But he shook his head, and replied, he was surprised 
that a young white chief, who ought to be wise, should ask so 
foolish a question. On reflecting, however, that rheumatism 
was a stranger among Indians, while numbers of our people 
were martyrs to it, and, above all, that I was upwards of three 
thousand miles from any professional assistance, I determined 
to adopt the disagreeable expedient, and commenced operations 
the following morning. The Indian first broke a hole in the ice 
sufficiently large to admit us both, upon which he made a signal 
that all was ready. Enveloped in a large buffalo robe, I pro- 
ceeded to the spot, and throwing off my covering, we both 
jumped into the frigid orifice together. He immediately com- 
menced rubbing my shoulders, back, and loins : my hair in the 



126 MEDICAL TREATMENT BELIEF. 

mean time became ornamented with icicles; and while the lower 
joints were undergoing their friction, my face, neck, and shoul- 
ders were encased in a thin covering of ice. On getting 
released I rolled a blanket about me, and ran back to the bed- 
room, in which I had previously ordered a good fire, and in a 
few minutes I experienced a warm glow all over my body. 
Chilling and disagreeable as these matinal ablutions were, yet, 
as I found them so beneficial, I continued them for twenty-five 
days, at the expiration of which my physician was pleased to 
say that no more were necessary, and that I had done my duty 
like a wise man. I was never after troubled with a rheumatic 
pain ! One of our old Canadians, who had been labouring 
many years under a chronic rheumatism, asked the Indian if he 
could cure him in the same manner : the latter replied it was 
impossible, but that he would try another process. He accord- 
ingly constructed the skeleton of a hut about four and a half 
feet high and three broad, in shape like a beehive, which he 
covered with deer-skins. He then heated some stones in an 
adjoining fire, and having placed the patient inside in a state of 
nudity, the hot stones were thrown in, and water poured on 
them : the entrance was then quickly closed, and the man kept 
in for some time until he begged to be released, alleging that he 
was nearly suffocated. On coming out he w T as in a state of 
profuse perspiration. The Indian ordered him to be imme- 
diately enveloped in blankets and conveyed to bed. This ope- 
ration was repeated several times, and although it did not effect 
a radical cure, the violence of the pains was so far abated as to 
permit the patient to follow his ordinary business, and to enjoy 
his sleep in comparative ease. 

The Flat-heads believe in the existence of a good and evil 
spirit, and consequently in a future state of rewards and punish- 
ments. They hold, that after death the good Indian goes to a 
country in which there will be perpetual summer ; that he will 
meet his wife and children ; that the rivers will abound with 
fish, and the plains with the much-loved buffalo ; and that he 
will spend his time in hunting and fishing, free from the terrors 
of war, or the apprehensions of cold or famine. The bad man, 
they believe, will go to a place covered with eternal snow ; that 
he will always be shivering with cold, and will see fires at a 
distance which he cannot enjoy ; water which he cannot pro- 
cure to quench his thirst, and buffalo and deer which he cannot 
kill to appease his hunger. An impenetrable wood, full of 
wolves, panthers, and serpents, separates these " shrinking 
slaves of winter" from their more fortunate brethren in the 
" meadows of ease." Their punishment is not however eternal, 
and according to the different shades of their crimes they are 



HEAVERS. 127 

sooner or later emancipated, and permitted to join .heir friends 
in the Elysian fields. 

Their code of morality, although short, is comprehensive. 
They say that honesty, bravery, love of truth, attention to 
parents, obedience to their chiefs, and affection for their wives 
and children, are the principal virtues which entitle them to the 
place of happiness, while the opposite vices condemn them to 
that of misery. They have a curious tradition with respect to 
beavers. They firmly believe that these animals are a fallen 
race of Indians, who, in consequence of their wickedness, vexed 
the Good Spirit, and were condemned by him to their present 
shape ; but that in due time they will be restored to their 
humanity. They allege that he beavers have the powers of 
speech ; and that they have heard them talk with each other, 
and seen them sitting in council on an offending member. 

The lovers of natural history are already well acquainted 
with the surprising sagacity of these wonderful animals ; with 
their dexterity in cutting down trees, their skill in constructing 
their houses, and their foresight in collecting and storing pro- 
visions sufficient to last them during the winter months: but 
few are aware, I should imagine, of a remarkable custom among 
them, which, more than any other, confirms the Indians in be- 
lieving them a fallen race. Towards the latter end of autumn 
a certain number, varying from twenty to thirty, assemble for 
the purpose of building their winter habitations. They imme- 
diately commence cutting down trees ; and nothing can be more 
wonderful than the skill and patience which they manifest in 
this laborious undertaking ; to see them anxiously looking up, 
watching the leaning of the tree when the trunk is nearly 
severed, and, when its creaking announces its approaching fall, 
to observe them scampering off in all directions to avoid being 
crushed. 

When the tree is prostrate they quickly strip it of its branches; 
after which, with their dental chisels, they divide the trunk into 
several pieces of equal lengths, which they roll to the rivulet 
across which they intend to erect their house. Two or three 
old ones generally superintend the others ; and it is no unusual 
sight to see them beating those who exhibit any symptoms of 
laziness. Should, however, any fellow be incorrigible, and 
persist in refusing to work, he is driven unanimously by the 
whole tribe to seek shelter and provisions elsewhere. These 
outlaws are therefore obliged to pass a miserable winter, half- 
starved in a burrow on the banks of some stream, where they 
are easily trapped. The Indians call them " lazy beaver," and 
their fur is not half so valuable as that of the other animals, 
whose persevering industry and prevoyance secure them pro- 



«•» 



128 INDIAN DESIGNATIONS — PIERRE MICHEL. 

visions and a comfortable shelter during the severity of 
winter. 

I could not discover why the Black-feet and Flat-heads re- 
ceived their respective designations ; for the feet of the former 
are no more inclined to sable than any other part of the body, 
while the heads of the latter possess their fair proportion of 
rotundity. Indeed it is only below the falls and rapids that real 
flat-heads appear, and at the mouth of the Columbia that they 
flourish most supernaturally. 

Pierre Michel, the hunter, was the son of a respectable 
Canadian by an Indian mother. He also held the situation of 
interpreter, and was a most valuable servant of the Company. 
Michel accompanied the Flat-heads on two of their war cam- 
paigns, and by his unerring aim and undaunted bravery won the 
affection of the whole tribe. The war-chief in particular paid 
great attention to his opinion, and consulted him in any difficult 
matter. Michel wanted a wife ; and having succeeded in 
gaining the affections of a handsome girl about sixteen years 
of age, and niece to the hereditary chieftain, he made a formal 
proposal for her. A council was thereupon called, at which her 
uncle presided, to take Michel's offer into consideration. One 
young warrior loved her ardently, and had obtained a previous 
promise from her mother that she should be his. He, therefore, 
with all his relations, strongly opposed her union with Pierre, and 
urged his own claims, which had been sanctioned by her mother. 
The war-chief asked him if she had ever promised to become 
his wife : he replied in the negative. The chief then addressed 
the council, and particularly the lover, in favour of Michel's 
suit ; pointing out the great services he had rendered the tribe 
by his bravery, and dwelling strongly on the policy of uniting 
him more firmly to their interests by consenting to the proposed 
marriage, which he said would for ever make him as one of their 
brothers. His influence predominated, and the unsuccessful 
rival immediately after shook hands with Michel, and told the 
young woman, as he could not be her husband, he hoped she 
would always regard him as a brother. This she readily pro- 
mised to do, and so ended the opposition. The happy Pierre 
presented a gun to her uncle, some cloth, calico, and ornaments 
to her female relatives ; with a pistol and handsome dagger to 
his friend. He proceeded in the evening to the chief's lodge, 
where a number of her friends had assembled to smoke. Here 
she received a lecture from the old man, her mother, and a few 
other ancients, on her duty as a wife and mother. They strongly 
exhorted her to be chaste, obedient, industrious, and silent ; and 
when absent with her husband among other tribes, always to 
stay at home, and have no intercourse with 6trange Indians. 



MARRIAGE RITES JOURNEY RENEWED. 129 

She then retired with the old women to an adjoining hut, where 
she underwent an ablution, and bade adieu to her leathern 
chemise, the place of which was supplied by one of gingham, 
to which was added a calico and green cloth petticoat, and a 
gown of blue cloth. After this was over, she was conducted 
back to her uncle's lodge, when she received some farther 
advice as to her future conduct. A procession was then 
formed by the two chiefs, and several warriors carrying blazing 
flambeaux of cedar, to convey the bride and her husband to the 
fort. They began singing war-songs in praise of Michel's 
bravery, and of their triumphs over the Black-feet. She was '-^' 
surrounded by a group of young and old women, some of whom 
were rejoicing, and others crying. The men moved on first, in a 
slow solemn pace, still chanting their warlike epithalamium. The 
women followed at a short distance ; and when the whole party 
arrived in front of the fort, they formed a circle, and commenced 
dancing and singing, which they kept up about twenty minutes. 
After this the calumet of peace went round once more, and 
when the smoke of the last whiff had disappeared, Michel shook 
hands with his late rival, embraced the chiefs, and conducted his 
bride to his room. While I remained in the country they lived 
happily together ; and as I mean to finish this chapter here, I 
may as well state that he was the only person of our party to 
whom the Flat-heads would give one of their women in marriage. 
Several of our men made applications, but were always refused. 



CHAPTER XII. 

Effect of snow on the eyes — Description of a winter at Oakinagan — News from 
the sea — Capture of Astoria by the Racoon sloop of war — Offer ofChinooks 
to cut off the British — A party attacked ; Mr. Stewart wounded ; two In- 
dians killed — Arrival of Mr. Hunt — Shipwreck of the Lark — Massacre of 
Mr. Read and eight of his men — Extraordinary escape of Dorrien's widow 
and children. 

On the 4th of April, 1814, we took leave of our Flat-head 
friends, on our way to Spokan House, while they proceeded to 
make preparations for the ensuing summer's campaign. We 
pursued our route partly by land, and partly by water. In 
some places the snow had entirely disappeared ; but in others, 
particularly the dense forests, it was covered with a slight in- 
crustation. 

The sun was very hot, and where its rays were reflected from 



130 CORRESPONDENCE. 

the congealed, or partly dissolved masses of snow, it caused a 
very painful sensation in the eyes of all, and nearly blinded half 
the party. My sight was partially injured, and my nose, lips, 
and cheeks so severely scorched, that I did not recover from 
the effects for more than a month after. We arrived safely at 
Spokan House on the 15th, where I found a couple of letters 
which had been written to me by my friend M'Gillivray from 
Oakinagan, at which place he had wintered ; but which, from 
want of a conveyance, could not be forwarded to me from 
Spokan. Although accustomed to the style of living on the 
eastern side of the mountains, and well acquainted with Indians, 
this was his first winter on the Columbia ; and for the information 
of some of my readers, I shall give an extract from one of his 
letters ; viz. 

" Oakinagan, Feb. 1814. 

" This is a horribly dull place. Here I have been, since you 
parted from us, perfectly solus. My men, half Canadians and 
half Sandwich Islanders. The library wretched, and no chance 
of my own books till next year, when the Athabasca men cross 
the mountains. If you, or my friends at Spokan, do not send 
me a few volumes, I shall absolutely die of ennui. The Indians 
here are incontestably the most indolent rascals I ever met ; 
and I assure you it requires no small degree of authority, with 
the few men I have, to keep them in order. Montignier left me 
on the 23d of December to proceed to Mr. M'Donald at 
Kamloops. On his way he was attacked by the Indians at 
Oakinagan Lake, and robbed of a number of his horses. The 
natives in that quarter seem to entertain no great friendship for 
us, as this is not their first attempt to trespass on our good- nature. 
My two Canadians were out hunting at the period of the rob- 
bery ; and the whole of my household troops merely consisted 
of Bonaparte ! Washington!! and Cesar!!!* Great names, 
you will say ; but I must confess, that much as I think of the 
two great moderns, and highly as I respect the memory of the 
immortal Julius, among these thieving scoundrels 'a rose, by any 
other name, would smell as sweet.' The snow is between two 
and three feet deep, and my trio of Owhyee generals find a 
sensible difference between such hyperborean weather and the 
pleasing sunshine of their own tropical paradise. Poor fellows ! 
they are not adapted for these latitudes, and I heartily wish 
they were at home in their own sweet islands, and sporting in 
the ' blue summer ocean' that surrounds them. 

* The individuals bearing these formidable names were merely three unsophis- 
ticated natives of the Sandwich Islands. 



ARRIVALS NAVAL AFFAIRS. 131 

" I have not as yet made a pack of beaver. The lazy Indians 
won't work ; and as for the emperor, president, and dictator, 
they know as much about trapping ns the monks of La Trappe. 
I have hitherto principally subsisted on horse-flesh. I cannot 
say it agrees with me, for it nearly produced a dysentery. I 
have had plenty of pork, rice, arrow-root, flour, taro-root, tea, 
and coffee ; no sugar. With such a variety of bonnes choses 
you will say I ought not to complain ; but want of society has 
destroyed my relish for luxuries, and the only articles I taste 
above par are souchong and molasses. What a contrast between 
the manner I spent last year and this ! In the first, with all the 
pride of a newly-created subaltern, occasionally fighting the 
Yankees, a la mode <ln pays ; and anon, sporting my silver wings 
before some admiring payscmne along the frontiers. Then what 
a glorious winter in Montreal, with captured Jonathans, trium- 
phant Britons, astonished Indians, gaping habitant, agitated 
beauties, balls, routs, dinners, suppers ; parades, drums beating, 
colours flying, with all the other ' pride, pomp, and circumstance 
of glorious war !' — but ' Othello's occupation's gone !' and here 
I am, with a shivering guard of poor islanders, buried in snow, 
sipping molasses, smoking tobacco, and masticating horse-flesh ! 
But I am sick of the contrast." 

On the 24th of April Messrs. David Stuart and Clarke arrived 
on horseback with three men. They informed us that they had 
left Fort George on the 4th, in company with Mr. John George 
M'Tavish and the gentlemen lately belonging to the Pacific Fur 
Company, who were British subjects, and who were on their 
return home to Canada. They left the main party about a day's 
march above Lewis River, for the purpose of procuring provi- 
sions at Spokan, with which they were to meet the canoes at the 
Kettle Fails, and from thence proceed up the Columbia on their 
route to Canada. The intelligence brought by these gentlemen 
was by no means of a pleasing description. At the period of 
their departure from the sea the Isaac Tod had not arrived, nor 
had any accounts been received of her. That vessel sailed from 
London in March, 1813, in company with the Phoebe frigate and 
the Cherub and Racoon sloops of war. They arrived safe at 
Rio Janeiro, and thence proceeded round Cape Horn to the 
Pacific, having previously made arrangements to meet at Juan 
Fernandez. The three men-of-war reached the latter island after 
encountering dreadful gales about the Cape. They waited here 
some time for the arrival of the Isaac Tod ; but as she did not 
make her appearance, Commodore Hillier did not deem it pru- 
dent to remain any longer inactive. He, therefore, in company 
with the Cherub, proceeded in search of Commodore Porter, 



13*2 ARRIVAL OP THE RACOON PROPOSED ALLIANCE. 

who, in the American frigate Essex, was clearing the South Sea 
of English whalers, and inflicting other injuries of a serious 
nature on our commerce.* 

At the same time he ordered Captain Black in the Racoon to 
proceed direct to the Columbia,, for the purpose of destroying 
the American establishment at Astoria. The Racoon arrived at 
the Columbia on the 1st of December, 1813. The surprise and 
disappointment of Captain Black and his officers were extreme 
on learning the arrangement that had taken place between the 
two companies, by which the establishment had become British 
property. They had calculated on obtaining a splendid prize by 
the capture of Astoria, the strength and importance of which 
had been much magnified :f and the contracting parties were 
therefore fortunate in having closed their bargain previous to the 
arrival of the Racoon. 

Captain Black, however, took possession of Astoria in the name 
of his Britannic Majesty, and rebaptised it by the name of" Fort 
George." He also insisted on having an inventory taken of the 
valuable stock of furs, and all other property purchased from the 
American company, with a view to the adoption of ulterior pro- 
ceedings in England for the recovery of the value from the 
North-west Company; but he subsequently relinquished this 
idea, and we heard no more about his claims. The Indians at 
the mouth of the Columbia knew well that Great Britain and 
America were distinct nations, and that they were then at war, 
but were ignorant of the arrangement made between Messrs. 
M'Dougall and M'Tavish, the former of whom still continued as 
nominal chief at the fort. On the arrival of the Racoon, which 
they quickly discovered to be one of " King George's fighting 
ships," they repaired armed to the fort, and requested an audi- 
ence of Mr. M'Dougall. He was somewhat surprised at their 
numbers and warlike appearance, and demanded the object of 
such an unusual visit. Comcomly, the principal chief of the 
Chinooks, thereupon addressed him in a long speech ; in the 
course of which he said that King George had sent a ship full 
of warriors, and loaded with nothing but big guns, to take the 
Americans, and make them all slaves; and that as they (the 
Americans) were the first white men who settled in their country, 
and treated the Indians like good relations, they bad resolved to 
defend them from King George's warriors, and were now ready 
to conceal themselves in the woods close to the wharf, from 

* He shortly after met the Essex at Valparaiso, and after a severe contest 
captured her. She is now the convict hulk at Kingjtown near Dublin. 

t On looking: at the wooden fortifications, Captain Black exclaimed, " Is this 
the fort about which I have heard so much ? D — n me, but I'd batter it down 
in two hours with a four-pounder !" 



OVERTURES REJECTED — ATTACK CONTEST. 133 

whence they would be able with their guns and arrows to shoot 
all the men that should attempt to land from the English boats; 
while the people in the fort could fire at them with their big guns 

and rifles. This proposition was uttered with an earnestness of 
manner that admitted no doubt of its sincerity: two armed 
boats from the Racoon were approaching; and had the people 
in the fort felt disposed t<> accede to the wishes of the Indians, 
every man in them would have been destroyed by an invisible 
enemy. Mr. M'Dougall thanked them for their friendly offer; 
but added that, notwithstanding the nations were at war, the 
people in the boats would not injure him or any of his people, 
and therefore requested them to throw by their wnr-shirts and 
arms, and receive the strangers as their friends. They at first 
seemed astonished at this answer; but on assuring them in the 
most positive manner that be was under no apprehensions, thev 
consented to give up their weapons for a few days. They after- 
ward declared they were sorry for having complied with Mr. 
M'DougalFs wishes ; for when they observed Captain Black, sur- 
rounded by his officers and marines, break the bottle of port on 
the flag-staff, and hoist the British ensign after changing the name 
of the fort, they remarked that, however we might wish to con- 
ceal the fact, the Americans were undoubtedly made slaves; and 
they were not convinced of their mistake until the sloop of war 
had departed without taking any prisoners. 

Mr. Stuart further informed us, that a party of seventeen men, 
under the command of Messrs. James Keith and Alexander 
Stewart, which had left Fort George early in January with 
merchandise for the interior, had been attacked by the natives 
between the first and second portages of the first rapids ; that 
Mr. Stewart was dangerously wounded by two arrows, one of 
which entered his left shoulder, and the other penetrated between 
his ribs close to the heart, notwithstanding which he succeeded 
in shooting two of the savages dead. By this time some of the 
men came to his assistance, and for a while succeeded in keeping 
back their assailants, who every moment became more daring, 
and evinced not merely a determination to revenge the death of 
their countrymen, but to seize and carry away all the merchan- 
dise in the portage. Mr. Keith having observed a large 
reinforcement of the savages from the opposite side approach in 
their war-canoes, to join those by whom Mr. Stewart was 
surrounded, and seeing that gentleman's wounds bleeding pro- 
fusely, felt that it would have been foolish obstinacy, and would 
have produced an unnecessary sacrifice of lives to remain longer 
in such a dangerous situation, lie therefore determined to 
abandon the goods ; and having embarked Mr. Stewart, the 
whole party pushed off in one canoe, leaving the other, with all 



134 WARLIKE EXPEDITION STRATAGEM. 

the property, to the mercy of the Indians. The latter were so 
overjoyed at becoming masters of such an unexpected quantity 
of plunder, that they allowed the party to effect their retreat 
unmolested ; and on the second day the canoe reached Fort 
George. 

Among the goods thus abandoned were upwards of fifty guns, 
and a considerable quantity of ammunition, which, if allowed to 
remain in the hands of the savages, might have been turned 
against us on a future occasion ; and as this was the first attack 
which had proved successful, the proprietors at once determined 
not to allow it to pass with impunity. They accordingly sent 
Mr. Franchere to the principal friendly chiefs in the vicinity of 
the fort for the purpose of acquainting them with the late occur- 
rence, and inviting them to join our people in their intended 
expedition against the enemy. They readily consented, and on 
the following morning a brigade of six canoes, containing sixty- 
two men, under the command of Messrs. M'Tavish, Keith, 
Franchere, Matthews, &c. took their departure from Fort George. 

Having no lading, they quickly reached the rapids. Every 
thing there appeared hostile. The warriors lined the beach at 
different places well armed, and the old men, women, and children 
were invisible. A council of war was immediately held, at which 
two chiefs of the Clatsops (one of whom was an old female) were 
present. They advised the gentlemen to assume the appearance 
of friendship ; and after entering into a parley with the natives, 
and inviting them to smoke, to seize one of their chiefs, and 
detain him as a hostage until the property should be restored. 
This advice was followed, and succeeded to perfection. Having 
by some coaxing, and repeated offers of the calumet, collected 
a number of the natives about them, to whom they made trifling 
presents of tobacco, they were at length joined by the principal 
chief of the place, who had for some time cautiously kept out of 
view. He was instantly seized, bound hand and foot, and thrown 
into a tent, with two men to guard him armed with drawn 
swords. The others were then sent away, with directions to 
acquaint their countrymen of their chief's captivity, and were 
told that if the entire property was not forthwith restored, he 
should be put to death. This had the desired effect, and shortly 
after all the guns, part of the kettles, and nearly one half of the 
other goods were brought back. They declared they could not 
recover any more, and asked our gentlemen, " would they not 
allow them any thing to place over the dead bodies of their two 
relations, who had been killed by Mr. Stewart V 

The most important object of the expedition having been thus 
attained without bloodshed, and as the aggressors had been pretty 
severely punished in the first instance, the party deemed it both 



SHIPWRECK OF THE LAItK. 135 

humane and prudent to rest satisfied with what they had recov- 
ered. They also felt that an unnecessary waste of human blood 
might prove ultimately prejudicial to their own interests, by 
raising up a combined force of natives, against whom their limited 
numbers would find it impossible to contend. They therefore 
gave the chief his liberty, and presented him with a flag, telling 
him at the same time, that whenever that was presented to them 
unfurled they would consider it as a sign of friendship ; but that 
if any of his tribe ever approached them without displaying this 
emblem of peace, it would be taken as a symptom of hostility, 
and treated as such. The chief promised faithfully to abide by 
this engagement, and the parties then separated. 

Mr. Hunt, late of the Pacific Fur Company, arrived at Fort 
George early in February this year, in a brig which he had pur- 
chased at the Sandwich Islands. When the Beaver had left the 
Columbia, this gentleman embarked in her on a trading voyage 
to the northward, which proved very successful. At the ter- 
mination of her northern trip the season was too far advanced to 
permit her returning to the Columbia, in consequence of which 
Mr. Hunt sent her on to Canton, and embarked on board an 
American trading vessel on the coast. Shortly after, the unwel- 
come intelligence of the war reached him ; and finding no vessel 
bound for the Columbia, he proceeded in the trader to the 
Sandwich Islands. He did not remain long here, when he 
re-embarked on board another trader, and after traversing an 
immense space of the Pacific Ocean, in the course of which he 
encountered many dangers, returned again to the islands. At 
Whoahoo he purchased a brig called the Pedler, and was pre- 
paring to come in her to the Columbia, when he was informed 
by some of the natives that an American vessel had been wrecked 
on the island of Tahoorowa. He instantly repaired thither, and 
found Captain Northrop, late commander of the ship Lark, with 
several of his crew, all in a state of great destitution. The Lark 
had been despatched from New- York by Mr. Astor, frieghted 
with provisions and merchandise for the establishment at the 
Columbia. After escaping various British cruizers, she made an 
excellent passage, until she arrived within about three hundred 
miles of the Sandwich Islands, when a sudden squall threw her 
on her beam ends. By this unfortunate accident the second 
mate and four men perished. The captain, however, and the 
rest of the crew, by cutting away the masts, succeeded in righting 
her; but she was completely water-logged. With much difficulty 
they hoisted a sail on a small jury-foremast. They fortunately 
got out of the cabin a box containing a few dozen of wine ; on 
which, with the raw flesh of a shark they had caught, they sup- 
ported nature thirteen days ! At the end of this period the 



136 MASSACRE OF MR. READ'S PARTV. 

trade-winds, which had been for some time favourable, drove the 
vessel on the rocky coast of Tahoorowa, where she went to 
pieces. The captain and his surviving crew were saved and 
kindly treated by the natives, who however plundered the wreck 
of all the property they could find. 

Mr. Hunt took Capt. Northrop and his men on board the brig, 
and sailed forthwith for the Columbia, which he reached in the 
beginning of February. Being ignorant of the events that had 
occurred during his absence, he was confounded at the intelli- 
gence he received ; and censured in strong terms the precipi- 
tate manner in which the sale had been effected. It was, how- 
ever, irrevocable, and he was obliged to submit. 

Having no farther business at Fort George, Mr. Hunt deter- 
mined on returning to the United States without loss of time. 
He took on board such American citizens as preferred returning 
home by sea to crossing the continent, and after rather a tedious 
voyage they all arrived safely at New-York.* 

We also learned from Messrs. Stuart and Clarke the follow- 
ing melancholy intelligence : — On their way up, a few miles 
above the Wallah Wallah river, they were followed by some In- 
dian canoes, from one of which a voice hailed them in French, 
and requested them to stop. They accordingly put ashore, and 
were joined by the Indians, among whom they were surprised 
to find the widow of Pierre Dorrien (a half-bred hunter, who 
had accompanied Mr. Read to the country of the Shoshonesthe 
preceding autumn, as already mentioned), with her two children. 
She told them, that shortly after Mr. Read had built his house, 
she proceeded with her husband and two other hunters, named 
Peznor and Le Clerc, between four and five days' march from 
the post to a part of the country well stocked with beaver, oi 
which they succeeded in trapping a considerable quantity. One 
evening about the beginning of January, while the poor fellows 
were thus occupied, Le Clerc staggered into her hut mortally 
wounded. He had merely strength sufficient to acquaint her 
that the savages had suddenly fallen on them while they were at 
their traps, and had killed her husband and Peznor : — he was 
then proceeding to give her directions as to the best means of 
effecting her escape ; but ere he had concluded, death termi- 
nated his existence. 

With that courage and self-possession of which few Indian 
women are devoid in times of necessity, she at once determined 

* Mr. Hunt subsequently returned to St. Louis, at the entrance of the 
Missouri, in which neighbourhood he possessed extensive property, and from 
accounts which I have recently received, I feel pleasure in stating 1 , has been 
elevated to the important office of governor of the state. A more estimable 
individual could not be selected for the situation. 



FEMALE HARDIHOOD. 137 

on flying from a spot so dangerous. With considerable difficulty 
she succeeded in catching two horses. On one she placed 
her clothes, a small quantity of dried salmon, and some beaver 
meat which remained in the hut. She mounted on the other 
with her two children, the elder of whom was only three years 
old, and the other did not exceed four months. Thus provided, 
she commenced her journey towards Mr. Read's establishment. 
On the third day she observed a number of Indians on horse- 
back galloping in an easterly direction : she immediately dis- 
mounted with the children, and was fortunate enough to escape 
unnoticed. That night she slept without fire or water. Late 
in the evening of the fourth day, on which she expected to have 
arrived at Mr. Read's house, she came in sight of the spot on 
which it had stood ; but was horror-struck at beholding there 
only a smoking ruin, with fresh marks of blood scattered all 
around. Her fortitude, however, did not forsake her, and she 
determined to ascertain whether any of the party were still living. 

Having concealed the children and horses in an adjoining clus- 
ter of trees, she armed herself with a tomahawk and a large 
knife, and after night-fall she cautiously crept towards the 
scene of carnage. All w r as silent and lonely, and at every 
step fresh traces of blood met her view. Anxious to ascertain 
if any had escaped the massacre, she repeatedly called out the 
various names of the party, but no voice responded. By the 
expiring glare of the smouldering timbers she observed a band 
of prairie wolves engaged in a sanguinary banquet. The sound 
of her voice scared them, and they fled. Fearful that they might 
bend their way to the spot in which she had deposited her pre- 
cious charge, she hastened thither, and arrived just in time to 
save her children from three of those ferocious animals which 
were then approaching them. 

From thence she proceeded the following morning towards a 
range of mountains not far from the upper parts of the Wal- 
lah Wallah river, where she intended to remain the rest of the 
winter. This place she reached on the next day in a state of 
great exhaustion from the want of food. Fortunately she had a 
buffalo robe and two or three deer-skins, with which, aided by 
some pine bark and cedar branches, she constructed a wigwam 
that served to shelter her tolerably well from the inclemency of 
the weather. The spot she chose was a rocky recess close by a 
mountain spring. She was obliged to kill the two horses for food, 
the meat of which she smoke-dried, and the skins served as an 
additional covering to her frail habitation. In this cheerless and 
melancholy solitude the wretched widow and her two poor or- 
phans dragged on a miserable existence during a severe season. 
Towards the latter end of March she had nearly consumed the 



138 FEMALE HARDIHOOD. 

last of her horseflesh, in consequence of which she found it 
necessary to change her quarters. During the whole of this 
period she saw none of the natives, or any indication of human 
habitations. Having packed up as much covering and dried 
meat as she could carry, she placed it with her younger child on 
her back, and taking the elder by the hand, she bade adieu to 
her wintry encampment. After crossing the ridge of mountains 
she fell on the Wallah Wallah river, along the banks of which 
she continued until she arrived at its junction with the Colum- 
bia. Her reception and treatment by the tribe at that place 
was of the most cordial and hospitable description ; and she had 
been living with them about a fortnight when the canoes passed, 
and took her up to Oakinagan. 

The house that had been built by Mr. Read had no paling or 
defence of any kind ; and as the men were constantly out hunt- 
ing, or procuring provisions, she supposed he had not more than 
one or two with him at the time they were attacked, and that 
the others had been cut off in the same manner as her husband 
and his companions. She could not assign any reason for this 
butchery, and up to the period I quitted the country the cause of 
it was never satisfactorily ascertained. Some imagined that it 
was committed by the tribe to which the man belonged that had 
been hanged by Mr. Clarke, in revenge for his death ; but this 
could not have been the case ; for, leaving the policy or impolicy 
of that execution out of the question, we subsequently learned 
that his tribe inhabited the upper parts of Lewis River, and 
never crossed the mountains beyond which Mr. Read had formed 
his establishment. 

From the quantity of blood Dorrien's widow saw, she thinks 
that several of the savages must have been killed or wounded 
before their bloodthirsty efforts were crowned with such fatal 
success. 

Mr. Read was a rough, warm-hearted, brave old Irishman. 
Owing to some early disappointments in life he had quitted his 
native country while a young man, in search of wealth among 
regions 

Where beasts with man divided empire claim, 
And the brown Indian marks with murd'rous aim ; 

and after twenty-five years of toils, dangers, and privations, 
added another victim to the long list of those who have fallen 
sacrifices to Indian treachery. 



ARRIVAL AT FORT GEORGE. 139 



CHAPTER XIII. 

Arrival of the Isaac Tod — Miss Jane Barnes, a white woman — Murder of one of 
our men by Indians — Trial and execution of the murderers — Death of Mr. 
Donald M'Tavish and five men. 

We left Spokan House on the 25th of May, and reached 
Oakinagan on the 29th, where I found my disconsolate friend, 
the ex-subaltern, just recovering from the melancholy into which 
his hibernal solitude had thrown him. The different parties 
having now assembled, we all started for the sea on the 30th of 
May, and on the 11th of June arrived at Fort George. We 
were highly gratified at finding the so long expected Isaac Tod 
safe at anchor. After parting company with the men-of-war off 
Cape Horn, she touched at Juan Fernandez and the Gallipagos 
Islands, from whence she proceeded to Monterey, a Spanish set- 
tlement on the coast of California, for provisions. Here the 
captain was informed that a British man-of-war had put into 
San Francisco in distress, and was unable to leave it. This latter 
place is also a Spanish establishment, and is situate lat. 38° N., 
about two degrees to the southward of Monterey. Captain 
Smith, of the Isaac Tod, immediately proceeded thither, and 
found the vessel alluded to was the Racoon sloop of war, com- 
manded by Captain Black. This vessel, on quitting the Colum- 
bia, struck several times on the bar, and was so severely damaged 
in consequence, that she was obliged to make for San Francisco, 
which port she reached in a sinking state, with seven feet water 
in her hold. Finding it impossible to procure the necessary 
materials there to repair the damage, Captain Black and his 
officers had determined to abandon the vessel, and proceed 
over-land to the Gulf of Mexico, whence they could have 
obtained a passage to England ; but when the Isaac Tod arrived 
they succeeded, with her assistance, in stopping the leaks, and 
putting the Racoon in good sailing order ; after which the Isaac 
Tod weighed anchor, and on the 17th of April crossed the 
bar of the Columbia, after a voyage of thirteen months from 
England. 

She brought out the following passengers ; viz., Messrs. Don- 
ald M'Tavish and John M' Donald, proprietors ; and Messrs. 
Alexander and James M'Tavish, Alexander Frazer, and Alexan- 
der M'Kenzie, clerks, with Doctor Swan, a medical gentleman 
engaged as resident physician at the fort. 



140 MISS JANE BARNES, 

The two first-named gentlemen, from their long experience of 
Indian living, knew well the little luxuries that would be most 
grateful to men so long debarred from the enjoyments of civilized 
life ; and they accordingly brought out a few casks of bottled 
porter, some excellent cheese, and a quantity of prime English 
beef, which they had dressed and preserved in a peculiar manner 
in tin cases impervious to air ; so that we could say we ate fresh 
beef which had been killed and dressed in England thirteen 
months before ! Acceptable as were these refreshers to our 
memory of " lang syne," they brought out another object which 
more strongly recalled to our semi-barbarized ideas the thoughts 
of our " dear native home," than all the other bonnes choses con- 
tained in the vessel. This was neither more nor less than a 
flaxen-haired, blue-eyed daughter of Albion, who, in a tempo- 
rary fit of erratic enthusiasm, had consented to become le com- 

pagnon clu voyage of Mr. Mac . Miss Jane Barnes had 

been a lively bar-maid at an hotel in Portsmouth, at which Mr. 

Mac had stopped preparatory to his embarkation. This 

gentleman being rather of an amorous temperament, proposed 
the trip to Miss Jane, who, " nothing loath," threw herself on his 
protection, regardless of consequences, and after encountering 
the perils of a long sea-voyage, found herself an object of interest 
to the residents at the fort, and the greatest curiosity that ever 
gratified the wondering eyes of the blubber-loving aboriginals of 
the north-west coast of America. The Indians daily thronged 
in numbers to our fort, for the purpose of gazing on and admiring 
the fair beauty, every article of whose dress was examined with 
the most minute scrutiny. She had rather an extravagant ward- 
robe, and each day exhibited her in a new dress, which she 
always managed in a manner to display her figure to the best ad- 
vantage. One day, her head decorated with feathers and flowers, 
produced the greatest surprise ; the next, her hair, braided and 
unconcealed by any covering, excited equal wonder and admi- 
ration. The young women felt almost afraid to approach her, 
and the old were highly gratified at being permitted to touch her 
person. Some of the chiefs having learned that her protector 
intended to send her home, thought to prevent such a measure 
by making proposals of marriage. One of them in particular, 
the son of Comcomly, the principal chief of the Chinooks, came 
to the fort attired in his richest dress, his face fancifully bedaubed 
with red paint, and his body redolent with whale oil. He was 
young, and had four native wives. He told her, that if she 
would become his wife, he would send one hundred sea-otter9 
to her relations ; that he would never ask her to carry wood, 
draw water, dig for roots, or hunt for provisions ; that he would 
make her mistress over his other wives, and permit her to sit at 



PROPOSALS OF MARRIAGE. 141 

her ease from morning to night, and wear her own clothes;* that 
she should always have abundance of fat salmon, anchovies, and 
elk, and be allowed to smoke as many pipes of tobacco during 
the day as she thought proper ; together with many other flatter- 
ing inducements, the tithe of which would have shaken the con- 
stancy of a score of the chastest brown vestals that ever flou- 
rished among the lower tribes of the Columbia. 

These tempting offers, however, had no charms for Jane. 
Her long voyage had not yet eradicated certain Anglican pre- 
dilections respecting mankind, which she had contracted in the 
country of her birth, and among which she did not include a 
flat head, a half-naked body, or a copper-coloured skin be- 
smeared with whale oil. 

Her native inamorato made several other ineffectual pro- 
posals ; but finding her inflexible, he declared he would never 
more come near the fort while she remained there. We 
shortly afterward learned that he had concerted a plan with 
some daring young men of his tribe to carry her off while she 
was walking on the beach (her general custom every evening 
while the gentlemen were at dinner), a practice which, after 
this information, she was obliged to discontinue. 

Mr. Mac at first intended to have brought her with him 

across the continent to Montreal ; but on learning the impracti- 
cability of her performing such an arduous journey, he aban- 
doned that idea, and made arrangements with the captain for 
her return to England by way of Canton. A few words more, 
and I shall have done with Miss Barnes. On the arrival of the 
vessel at Canton, she became an object of curiosity and admi- 
ration among the inhabitants of the " Celestial Empire." An 
English gentleman of great wealth, connected with the East 
India Company, offered her a splendid establishment. It was 
infinitely superior to any of the proposals made by the Chinook 
nobility, and far beyond any thing she could ever expect in 
England : it was therefore prudently accepted, and the last 
account I heard of her stated that she was then enjoying all the 
luxuries of eastern magnificence.f 

* Meaning that he would not insist on her wearing the light covering of the 
Indian females. 

t Miss Barnes was fond of quotations ; but she was no Blue. One of the 
clerks was one day defending the native and half-bred women, whoso char- 
acters she had violently attacked, and he recriminated in no very measured 
language on the conduct of the white ladies : — " O, Mr. Mac !" said she, " I 
suppose you agree with Shakspeare, that l Every woman is at heart a rake ?' " 
— " Pope, ma'am, if you please." — " Pope ! Pope '." replied Jane. fc Bless 
me, sir I you must be wrong ; rake is certainly the word. I never heard of 
but one female pope." Then, in order to terminate the argument, she pre- 
tended to read an old newspaper which she held in her hand. He quickly 



142 DREADFUL MURDER. 

About a month after the arrival of the Isaac Tod a circum- 
stance occurred which, as it caused a considerable sensation for 
some time, I shall fully relate. 

About two miles in the rear of the fort, on the Clatsop river, 
a place had been established for making charcoal. One of the 
men employed at this business was a poor half-witted American 
from Boston, named Ju Ige, who had crossed the continent with 
Mr. Hunt's party, and whose sufferings during that journey had 
partially deranged his intellect. He was however a capital 
woodsman ; and few men could compete with him, as he said 
himself, in hewing down forests " by the acre." His comrade 
had been absent one day selecting proper wood for charcoal, 
and on returning to the lodge in the evening, he found the body 
of the unfortunate Judge lying stretched on the ground, with his 
scull completely cleft in two by the blow of an axe which was 
lying beside him steeped in blood. He instantly repaired to 
the fort, and communicated the dreadful intelligence ; upon 
which a party was despatched for the mangled remains of poor 
Judge. 

Mr. M'Tavish forthwith summoned all the neighbouring chiefs 
to attend at the fort ; and on the following day there was a con- 
gress of representatives from the Chinooks, Chilts, Clatsops, 
Killymucks, and Cathlamahs. They could not assign any reason 
for the murder ; nor indeed could any one, for Judge was the 
most harmless individual belonging to our establishment. They 
promised, however, that every exertion should be made on their 
part for the discovery of the perpetrators ; and Mr. M'Tavish 
offered a large reward for their apprehension. Some time 
elapsed in vain inquiry ; but, through the agency of the Clatsop 
chief, we received private information that the murderers were 
two of the Killymucks ; and that if we sent a party well armed 
to his village, he would render every assistance to take them 
into custody. Mr. Matthews and seven men were accordingly 
ordered on this dangerous duty. They proceeded early in the 
day in a canoe up the Clatsop river, as if on a hunting excursion, 
and stopped late in the evening at a place previously agreed on, 
where they were joined by three Clatsops and a Killymuck, 
who was the informer. After nightfall they continued on until 

discovered by her keeping the wrong end uppermost that she did not know a 
syllable of its contents. He quitted her abruptly ; and as ho was coming out 
I met him at the door, a wicked and malicious grin ruffling his sunburnt 
features. B Well, Mac," said I, " what's the matter ? You seem annoyed." 
— "What do you think ?" he replied ; " I have just had a conversation with 
that fine-looking damsel there, who looks down with such contempt on our 
women, and may I be d — d if she understands B from a buffalo !" 

Her supposed education was the only excuse in his opinion to justify her 
usurpation of superiority ; — that gone, he judged her " poor indeed." 



CAPTUItE OF THE MURDERER*. 143 

they arrived at the Killymuck village, when they landed. The 
informer, having pointed out the lodges in which the murderers 
slept, and told their names, separated from the party. Mr. 
Matthews immediately proceeded to the chief's dwelling, and 
made him acquainted with the object of his visit. He appeared 
somewhat surprised ; but stated, that having promised to assist 
in discovering them, he would not oppose their apprehension, 
provided they were allowed a fair trial, and that nothing should 
befall them but on the clearest testimony. This was of course 
agreed to ; and Mr. Matthews, with his party, then cautiously 
approached the habitations of the two delinquents, which were 
adjoining each other ; and having divided his men, leaving the 
Clatsops to mind the canoe, they entered the houses, and suc- 
ceeded in seizing, binding, and hurrying the prisoners on board 
before the village was alarmed. The men paddled hard until 
they arrived at the Clatsop village,, wiicre they stopped to rest, 
and the following morning at daybreak they reached Fort 
George in safety. The day subsequent to that of our arrival 
was fixed for the trial. It was held in the large dining-hall ; 
and the jury was composed of the gentlemen belonging to the 
Company, with an equal number of Indians, consisting of chiefs 
and chieftainesses, for among these tribes old women possess 
great authority. It appeared in the course of the investigation 
that revenge was the cause of the murder. About two years 
before this period, while houses were being built for the men, 
the greater number of them were lodged in tents and huts about 
the fort, from which the Indians were constantly in the practice 
of pilfering whatever they could lay their hands on ; particularly 
at night, when the workmen were buried in sleep after the 
labour of the day. 

Judge and three others were lodged together ; and one night, 
when it was supposed they were fast asleep, one of them heard 
the noise of footsteps outside^ approaching the tent. Through 
a slit in the canvass he ascertained they were natives, and with- 
out awaking his comrades, he cautiously unsheathed his sword, 
and waited a few minutes in silence, watching their motions, 
until they at length reached the tent, the lower part of which they 
were in the act of raising, when, by a desperate blow of the 
sword, he severely cut one of their arms. The savage gave a 
dreadful yell, and the Canadian rushed out, when he distinctly 
perceived two Indians running away quickly, and disappear in 
the gloom of the forest behind. This circumstance made some 
noise at the time ; the parties were not discovered, and in a few 
weeks the event was forgotten by our people ; but it was not so 
with the savages. They harboured the most deep and deadly 
revenge ; and thinking that Judge was the person who had in- 



144 CONVICTION — SENTENCE — EXECUTION. 

flicted the wound, they determined to wreak their vengeance on 
him. For this purpose they had been for nearly two years oc- 
casionally lurking about the fort, until the fatal opportunity pre- 
sented itself of gratifying their demoniacal passion. On the 
day of the murder, after Judge's comrade had quitted the lodge, 
they stole unperceived on him, and while he was engaged at the 
fire they felled him to the ground with a blow of his own axe, 
after which they split his scull, and made their escape. All these 
facts were brought out during the trial, which lasted the greater 
part of the day. Several of the witnesses underwent a strict 
cross-examination, particularly by the old women, who evinced 
much more acuteness than was displayed by the chiefs. 

The prisoners made no defence, and observed a sulky tacitur- 
nity during the whole of the proceedings. They were found 
guilty by the unanimous verdict of the jury, and sentenced to 
be shot the following morning. They showed no signs of re- 

I)entance or sorrow ; and on being led out of the hall, the fel- 
ow whose arm had been cut held it up, and exclaimed, " Were 
I now free, and he alive, I would do the same thing again !" 

About nine o'clock the next morning they were brought from 
the guard-house pinioned, and conducted to the farther end of 
the wharf, at which place it was arranged they were to suffer. 
Twenty-four men were selected by ballot to carry the dreadful 

sentence into execution under the command of Mr. M , to 

whom the lot fell. Immense numbers of Indians belonging to 
the various surrounding nations were in attendance ; some on 
shore, and others in canoes. The guns on the battery and in 
the bastions were loaded with grape, and attended by men with 
slow matches. The remainder of our people were drawn up 
in front of the fort, all armed with muskets and bayonets. The 
culprits made considerable opposition to their being tied to- 
gether, and refused to kneel, or allow r the caps to be drawn over 
their eyes. At length, between force and entreaty, these pre- 
liminaries were accomplished, and orders were given to fire. 
After the discharge a loud and frightful yell was sent forth from 
the surrounding savages ; but they remained tranquil. On the 
smoke clearing away, it was perceived that both the unfortunate 
men were still alive, although several balls had taken effect. 

Mr. M ordered the party to reload quickly, and a second 

volley was discharged : one only was killed ; and as the other 
made repeated attempts to rise, and appeared to suffer great 
agony, he was despatched by one of the men, who fired a ball 
through his head. The party then gave three cheers, and re- 
tired to the fort, while the friends and relatives of the deceased 
took away their bodies amid the greatest lamentations ; during 
which not a murmur was heard, or the slightest symptom of 



FATAL ACCIDENT. 145 

disapprobation expressed. Shortly after a number of the chiefs 
and elders came up to the fort, when Mr. M'Tavish invited 
them into the hall, to thank them for their assistance ; and 
having paid the promised rewards, and made various pre- 
sents, they smoked the calumet of peace, and departed for 
their respective villages, apparently much gratified with the 
manner they had been treated. 

Scarcely was this tragedy ended when one more fatal to the 
interests of the Company occurred by the melancholy and un- 
timely death of Mr. Donald M'Tavish. This gentleman had 
embarked in an open boat, with six voyageurs, to proceed to the 
opposite side of the Columbia. It blew a stiff" gale ; and about 
the middle of the river, owing to some mismanagement of the 
sail, a heavy wave struck the boat, which instantly filled and 
went down. With the exception of one man they all perished : 
he succeeded in gaining a snag which was a few feet above the 
water, and on which he remained for nearly two hours, until he 
was rescued when in a state of great exhaustion by two Chi- 
nooks, who proceeded to his assistance in a small canoe. Thus 
perished the respected Mr. Donald M'Tavish, one of the oldest 
proprietors of the North-west Company, and for many years 
the principal director for managing the affairs of the interior. 
He had realized an independent fortune ; and had, in fact, retired 
from the Company, when he volunteered his services to organ- 
ize the new department of Columbia; after effecting which ob- 
ject it was his intention to have crossed the continent to Canada, 
and from thence to proceed to Scotland, where he had purchased 
an estate, on which, after a life of fatigues and hardships, he had 
hoped to spend an old age of ease and comfort. Mr. M'Tavish 
was a man of bold decided character. His enmity was open 
and undisguised ; his friendship warm and sincere. Sprung 
from a comparatively humble origin, he was the founder of his 
own fortune ; and merit with him was sure to be appreciated 
without reference to a man's family or connexions. 

The day after this melancholy event, the body of the lamented 
gentleman, with those of four of the men, were found, and in- 
terred in a handsome spot behind the north-east bastion of Fort 
George, where a small monument, tolerably well engraved, points 
to the future Indian trader the last earthly remains of the 
enterprising Donald M'Tavish. 



146 THE NATIVES — DISTORTION OP THE HEAR 



CHAPTER XIV. 

Sketch of the Indians about the mouth of the Columbia — Process of flat- 
tening the head — Thievish disposition — Treatment of their slaves — Sug- 
gestions to the missionary societies — Dreadful ravages of the smallpox — 
Jack Ramsay — Their ideas of religion — Curious superstition — Marriage 
ceremonies — Anecdote — Aversion to ardent spirits — Government — War — 
Arms and armour — Canoes and houses — System of cooking — Utensils — 
Gambling — Haiqua— Quack doctors — Mode of burial. 

1814. 

We remained a couple of months this summer at Fort George, 
making the necessary arrangements for our winter's campaign. 
During this period we made several excursions on pleasure or 
business to the villages of the various tribes, from one to three 
days' journey from the fort. They differ little from each other 
in laws, manners, or customs, and were I to make a distinction, 
I would say the Cathlamahs are the most tranquil, the Killymucks 
the most roguish, the Clatsops the most honest, and the Chinooks 
the most incontinent. The Chilts, a small tribe who inhabit the 
coast to the northward of Cape Disappointment, partake in some 
degree of these various qualities. The abominable custom of 
flattening their heads prevails among them all. Immediately 
after birth, the infant is placed in a kind of oblong cradle formed 
like a trough, with moss under it. One end, on which the head 
reposes, is more elevated than the rest. A padding is then placed 
on the forehead, with a piece of cedar-bark over it, and by means 
of cords passed through small holes on each side of the cradle, 
the padding is pressed against the head. It is kept in this man- 
ner upwards of a year, and is not, I believe, attended with much 
pain. The appearance of the infant, however, while in this 
state of compression, is frightful, and its little black eyes, forced 
out by the tightness of the bandages, resemble those of a mouse 
choked in a trap. When released from this inhuman process, 
the head is perfectly flattened, and the upper part of it seldom 
exceeds an inch in ' thickness. It never afterward recovers its 
rotundity. They deem this an essential point of beauty, and the 
most devoted adherent of our first Charles never entertained a 
stronger aversion to a Round-head than these savages.* 

* Doctor Swan, on examining the sculls I had taken, candidly confessed that 
nothing short of ocular demonstration could have convinced him of the pos- 
sibility of moulding the human head into 6uch a form. 



CHARACTER OF NATIVES — THIEVING PROPENSITIES. 147 

They allege, as an excuse for this custom, that all their slaves 
have round heads ; and accordingly every child of a bondsman, 
who is not adopted by the tribe, inherits not only his father's 
degradation, but his parental rotundity of cranium. 

This deformity is unredeemed by any peculiar beauty either 
in features or person. The height of the men varies from five 
feet to five feet six inches ; that of the women is generally six 
or eight inches less. The nose is rather flat, with distended 
nostrils ; and a mouth, seldom closed, exposes to view an 
abominable set of short, dirty, irregular teeth. The limbs of 
the men are in general well shaped ; but the women, owing to 
tight ligatures which they wear on the lower part of their legs, 
are quite bandy, with thick ankles, and broad flat feet. They 
have loose hanging breasts, slit ears, and perforated noses, 
which, added to greasy heads, and bodies saturated with fish-oil, 
constitute the sum total of their personal attractions. 

The good qualities of these Indians are few ; their vices many. 
Industry, patience, sobriety, and ingenuity nearly comprise the 
former ; while in the latter may be classed, thieving, lying, 
incontinence, gambling, and cruelty. They are also perfect 
hypocrites. Each tribe accuses the other of " envy, hatred, 
malice, and all uncharitableness." Even the natives of the 
same village, while they feign an outward appearance of friend- 
ship, indulge in a certain propensity called backbiting ; in this 
respect differing but little from the inhabitants of more civilized 
countries, among whom the prevalence of such ill-natured 
practices has by certain envious and satirical coffee-drinkers 
been unjustly attributed to the scandalizing influence of tea. 

Their bravery is rather doubtful ; but what they want in 
courage they make up in effrontery. Fear alone prevents them 
from making any open or violent attempt at robbery ; and their 
offences under this head, in legal parlance, may more strictly 
be styled petty larcenies. I have seen a fellow stopped on 
suspicion of stealing an axe. He denied the charge with the 
most barefaced impudence ; and when the stolen article was 
pulled from under his robe, instead of expressing any regret, he 
burst out laughing, and alleged he was only joking. One of the 
men gave him a few kicks, which he endured with great sang 
froid ; and on joining his companions, they received him with 
smiling countenances, and bantered him on the failure of his 
attempt. They seldom make any resistance to these summary 
punishments ; and if the chastisement takes place in the presence 
of a chief, he seems delighted at the infliction. 

They purchase slaves from the neighbouring tribes for beaver, 
otter, beads, &c. I could never learn whether any were taken 
by them in war. While in good health, and able to work, they 



148 INCONTINENCE PROSTITUTION. 

are well treated ; but the moment they fall sick, or become unfit 
for labour, the unfortunate slaves are totally neglected, and left 
to perish in the most miserable manner. After death, their bodies 
are thrown without any ceremony at the trunk of a tree, or into 
an adjoining wood. It sometimes happens that a slave is adopted 
by a family ; in which case he is permitted to marry one of the 
tribe, and his children, by undergoing the flattening process, melt 
down into the great mass of the community. 

Chastity is an item seldom inscribed on the credit side of their 
account current with futurity. Indeed a strict observance of it 
before marriage is not an article of their moral code. 

Formerly an act of post-nuptial incontinence subjected the 
woman to the loss of life ; but in latter times infractions of con- 
jugal rights are often connived at, or if committed sa7is permis- 
sion, only slightly punished.* 

Numbers of the women reside during certain periods of the 
year in small huts about the fort, from which it is difficult to 
keep the men. They generally retire with the fall of the leaf 
to their respective villages, and during the winter months seldom 
visit Fort George. But on the arrival of the spring and autumn 
brigades from the interior they pour in from all parts, and besiege 
our voyageurs much after the manner which their frail sisters at 
Portsmouth adopt when attacking the crews of a newly arrived 
India fleet. Mothers participate with their daughters in the pro- 
ceeds arising from their prostitution ; and, in many instances, 
husbands share with their wives the wages of infamy. Disease 
is the natural consequence of this state of general demoralization, 
and numbers of the unfortunate beings suffer dreadfully from the 
effects of their promiscuous intercourse. 

Now that the North-west and Hudson's Bay Companies have 
become united, and that rivalship in trade cannot be brought 
forward as an excuse for corrupting Indians, it would be highly 
desirable that the missionaries would turn their thoughts to this 
remote and too long neglected corner of the globe. Their pious 
labours have already effected wonders in the comparatively 
small islands of the Pacific, where idolatry, human sacrifices, and 
other crimes more revolting to humanity, have been abolished. 
I would therefore respectfully suggest to the consideration of the 
benevolent individuals who constitute the missionary societies, 
the propriety of extending the sphere of their exertions to the 
North-west coast of America, and from thence through the 
interior of that vast continent ; the aboriginal inhabitants of 
which, with the exception of Canada and a very trifling part of 

* We were told by an old man that he knew but of one instance in which 
a husband killed his wife for infidelity. 



INDIAN CONVERSION RELIGIOUS INSTRUCTION. 149 

the frontiers, are still buried in the deepest ignorance. During 
the period that France held possession of the Canadas, the 
Jesuits made wonderful progress in converting the Indians, and 
most of the natives of the two provinces are now Christians. 
In my journey across the continent small wooden huts, orna- 
mented with crucifixes and other symbols of Christianity, situated 
from five to seven hundred miles beyond the limits of civilization 
were pointed out to me, which had been formerly inhabited by 
these enterprising missionaries in their progress through the 
wilderness. These dwellings are now deserted ; but are still 
regarded with pious reverence by the thoughtless voyageurs ; 
and even the poor Indians, who by the cessation of the Jesuit 
missions, have relapsed into their former habits, pay the utmost 
respect to the houses, which were inhabited, as they say, by "the 
good white fathers, who, unlike other white men, never robbed 
or cheated them." Since the annexation of Canada to the 
British crown, Indian conversion has almost ceased ; or has 
made, at most, a slow and sickly progress. Their moral ame- 
lioration is completely neglected by both English and Americans; 
and it is only in periods of war that we pay them any attention. 
The first settlers of the United States did not act so. They 
fought their way through the country with the Bible in one hand 
and the sword in the other ; and it was not until the former 
ceased to convince that recourse was had to the latter. Objec- 
tionable, however, as this system undoubtedly was, the plan 
adopted by the modern Americans is more so. Their anti-re- 
publican love of aggrandisement, by the continual extension of 
their territorial possessions, must sooner or later destroy the unity 
of their confederation ; and it is a subject deeply to be lamented 
that, in their gradual encroachments on the Indian lands, Chris- 
tianity is forgotten, the word of God does not now, as in the 
time of their forefathers, keep in check the sanguinary sword 
of man ; and extermination, instead of regeneration, seems to 
be their motto. To return to the Columbia. It is the only 
situation on the north-west coast, to the northward of California, 
free from danger ; and I have no doubt that by a proper appli- 
cation the Hudson's Bay Company, who have now possession of 
Fort George, would give a passage, and afford every facility to 
resident missionaries. Odious as the vices are to which I have 
referred, the few good qualities which the Indians possess would 
materially assist in bringing them to a knowledge of the true 
religion. Independently of the beneficial results which we 
might naturally expect to flow from their exertions among the 
natives, there is another consideration which induces me to think 
that the Company would, for its own interest, render them 
every assistance in its power. I allude to the situation of a 



150 MISSIONARIES THE SMALLPOX. 

number of men in its employment whose knowledge of Chris- 
tianity, owing to a long absence from their native country, has 
fallen into a kind of abeyance, and which would undoubtedly be 
revived by the cheering presence of a minister of God. Can- 
nibalism, although unknown among the Indians of the Columbia, 
is practised by the savages on the coast to the northward of that 
river ; so that by the progressive labours of the missionaries, this 
dreadful custom, with the others, might be gradually abolished. 
The settlement formed by Lord Selkirk on Red River, which 
falls into the great Lake Winepic, and which suffered so much 
in its infancy from interested enemies, is at present, I am happy 
to hear, in a thriving condition. A missionary has been established 
here, whose labours have already been productive of much good. 
Numbers of the surrounding natives have become converts, and 
they are yearly increasing. The progress of civilization will 
gradually gain ground among the western tribes ; and we may 
indulge the pleasing hope that the day is not far distant when 
the missionaries, in their glorious career eastward and westward, 
from the St. Lawrence and the mouth of the Columbia, despite 
the many difficulties and dangers they must unavoidably encoun- 
ter, may meet on the Rocky Mountains, and from their ice-cov- 
ered summits proclaim to the benighted savages " Glory to God 
in the highest, and on earth peace and good-will towards men." 
About thirty years before this period the smallpox had com- 
mitted dreadful ravages among these Indians, the vestiges of 
which are still visible on the countenances of the elderly men 
and women. It is believed in the north-west that this disease 
was wilfully introduced by the American traders among the 
Indians of the Missouri, as a short and easy method of reducing 
their numbers, and thereby destroying in a great measure their 
hostility to the whites. The Americans throw the blame on the 
French ; while they in turn deny the foul imputation, and broadly 
charge the Spaniards as the original delinquents. Be this as it 
may, the disease first proceeded from the banks of the Missouri, 
and the British are free from having had any participation in the 
detestable act. It travelled with destructive rapidity as far 
north as Athabasca and the shores of the Great Slave Lake, 
crossed the Rocky Mountains at the sources of the Missouri, 
and having fastened its deadly venom on the Snake Indians, 
spread its devastating course to the northward and westward, 
until its frightful progress w r as arrested by the Pacific Ocean. 
Some of the old voyageurs who were stationed at English 
River and Athabasca, when this scourge made its first appear- 
ance, give the most harrowing details of its ravages. The 
unfortunate Indians, when in the height of the fever, would 
plunge into a river, which generally caused instant death ; and 
thousands of the miserable wretches, by suicide, anticipated its 



IMPOSITION — ANGLO-INDIAN. 151 

fatal termination. Whole Tillages were depopulated, and an old 
man well known in the Indian country, named Louis La Liberte, 
told me that one morning during its height he saw between two 
and three hundred bodies of men, women, and children, sus- 
pended from trees, close to an adjoining village of the Cree 
nation, the surviving inhabitants of which did not exceed forty 
persons. They believed that the " Great Master of Life had 
delivered them over to the Evil Spirit for their wicked courses ;" 
and for many years afterward those who escaped, or survived 
the deadlv contagion, strictly conformed themselves to their own 
code of moral laws. The recollection of it, however, is now 
fast wearing away from their memory. Those who bore any 
traces of it are nearly extinct ; and on the eastern side of the 
mountains, intoxication and its attendant vices are becoming too 
prevalent. The western tribes still remember it with a super- 
stitious dread, of which Mr. M'Dougall took advantage, when he 
learned that the Tonquin had been cut oft". He assembled 
several of the chieftains, and showing them a small bottle, 
declared that it contained the smallpox ; that although his force 
was weak in number, he was strong in medicine ; and that in 
consequence of the treacherous cruelty of the Northern Indians, 
he would open the bottle and send the smallpox among them. 
The chiefs strongly remonstrated against his doing so. They 
told him that they and their relations were always friendly to the 
white people ; that they would remain so ; that if the smallpox 
was once let out, it would run like fire among the good people 
as well as among the bad ; and that it was inconsistent with 
justice to punish friends for the crimes committed by enemies. 
Mr. M'Dougall appeared to be convinced by these reasons, and 
promised, that if the white people were not attacked or robbed 
for the future, the fatal bottle should not be uncorked. He was 
greatly dreaded by the Indians, who were fully impressed with 
the idea that he held their fate in his hands, and they called him 
by way of pre-eminence, " the great smallpox chief." 

An Indian, belonging to a small tribe on the coast to the south- 
ward of the Clatsops, occasionally visited the fort. He was a 
perfect hisus natune, and his history was rather curious. His 
skin was lair, his face partially freckled, and his hair quite red. 
He was about five feet ten inches high, was slender, but remark- 
ably well made; his head had not undergone the flattening process, 
and he was called Jack Ramsay, in consequence of that name 
having been punctured on his left arm. The Indians allege that 
his father was an English sailor, who had deserted from a trading 
vessel, and had lived many years among their tribe, one of whom 
he married ; that when Jack was born he insisted on preserving 
the child's head in its natural state, and while young had punc- 



152 SUPERSTITIOUS OBSERVANCES. 

tured the arm in the above manner. Old Ramsay had died 
about twenty years before this period : he had several more chil- 
dren, but Jack was the only red-headed one among them. He 
was the only half-bred I ever saw with red hair, as that race in 
general partake of the swarthy hue derived from their maternal 
ancestors. Poor Jack was fond of his father's countrymen, and 
had the decency to wear trousers whenever he came to the fort. 
We therefore made a collection of old clothes for his use, suffi- 
cient to last him for many years. 

The ideas of these Indians on the subjeet of a future state do 
not differ much from the opinions entertained by the natives of 
the interior. They believe that those who have not committed 
murder ; who have fulfilled the relative duties of son, father, and 
husband : who have been good fishermen, &c, will after their 
death go to a place of happiness, in which they will find an 
abundant supply of fish, fruit, &c. ; while those who have fol- 
lowed a contrary course of life will be condemned to a cold and 
barren country, in which bitter fruits and salt water will form 
their principal means of subsistence. Mr. Franchere, who was 
stationed permanently at Fort George, and who obtained an ac- 
curate knowledge of their language, &c, states that they have 
a tradition relative to the origin of mankind, of which the follow- 
ing is the substance : — Man was at first created by a divinity 
named Etalapass ; but he was originally imperfect. His mouth 
was not divided, his eyes were closed, and his hands and feet 
immoveable ; in short, he was rather a statue of flesh, than a 
living being. A second divinity, named Ecannum, less power- 
ful than Etalapass, but more benevolent, seeing man in this im- 
perfect state, took pity on him, and with a sharp stone opened 
his mouth, unclosed his eyes, and imparted motion to his hands 
and feet. Not satisfied with these gifts, the compassionate deity 
taught mankind how to make canoes, paddles, nets, and all their 
domestic utensils. He also overturned rocks into the rivers, 
which, by obstructing the progress of the fish through the waters, 
enabled them to take sufficient to satisfy their wants. We 
observed no idols among them ; and although they had some 
small grotesque-looking figures, carved out of wood, they seemed 
to pay them no respect, and often offered to barter them for 
trifles. 

Civilized countries are not exempt from superstition ; it is 
therefore not surprising to find it exist among untutored savages. 
They believe that if salmon be cut cross-wise the fishery will be 
unproductive, and that a famine will follow. In the summer of 
181 1, they at first brought but a small quantity to the people who 
were then building the fort. As Mr. M'Dougall knew there was no 
scarcity, he reproached the chiefs for furnishing such a scanty sup- 



MARRIAGE — RECOGNITION AND REPULSE. 153 

ply : they admitted the charge, but assigned as a reason their fears 
that the white people would cut it the unlucky way. Mr. 
M'Dougall promised to follow their plan, upon which they brought 
a tolerable good quantity, but all roasted ; and which, in order to 
avoid displeasing them, our people were obliged to eat before 
sunset each day. 

The negotiations preceding a marriage are short, and the 
ceremony itself simple. When a young man has made his 
choice, he commissions his parents or other relations to open the 
business to the girl's relations. They are to receive a certain 
quantity of presents ; and when these are agreed on, they all 
repair to the house intended for the future residence of the young 
couple, to which nearly all the inhabitants of the village are 
invited. The presents, which consist of slaves, axes, beads, 
kettles, haiqua, brass and copper bracelets, &c, are now dis- 
tributed by the young man, who in his turn receives an equal or 
perhaps greater quantity, from the girl's relations. The bride, 
decorated with the various ornaments common among the tribe, 
is then led forth by a few old women, and presented to the 
bridegroom. He receives her as his wife ; and the elders, after 
wishing them plenty of fish, fruit, roots, and children, retire from 
the house, accompanied by all the strangers. The marriage tie 
is not indissoluble. A man may repudiate his w T ife, who is then 
at liberty to take another husband. Infidelity is the general 
cause of these separations, which however are of rare occurrence. 

A man may have as many wives as his means will permit him 
to keep. Some have four or five. They live together in the 
greatest harmony ; and although their lord may love one more 
than another, it causes no jealousy or disunion among the rest. 

Many of these women, who have followed a depraved course 
of life before marriage, become excellent and faithful wives 
afterward ; an instance of which I shall here relate : — In the 
early part of this summer one of the clerks, who had been out 
on a trading excursion, happened to be present at a marriage in 
the Clatsop village. He was surprised at recognising in the bride 
an old chere amie, who the preceding year had spent three weeks 
with him in his tent, actually decorated with some of the baubles 
he had then given her. His eye caught hers for a moment ; but 
his appearance excited not the least emotion, and she passed him 
by as one whom she had never seen. A few days afterward 
she came to the fort accompanied by her husband and other 
Indians. She remained at the gate while the men were selling 
some fish in the trading store. Her old lover, observing her 
alone, attempted to renew their former acquaintance ; but she 
betrayed no symptom of recognition, and in a cold distant man- 
ner told him to go about his business. 

T 






154 GOVERNMENT — INDIAN WARFARE. 

All the Indians on the Columbia entertain a strong aversion 
to ardent spirits, which they regard as poison. They allege that 
slaves only drink to excess ; and that drunkenness is degrading 
to free men. On one occasion some of the gentlemen at Fort 
George induced a son of Comcomly the chief to drink a few 
glasses of rum. Intoxication quickly followed, accompanied by 
sickness ; in which condition he returned home to his father's 
house, and for a couple of days remained in a state of stupor. 
The old chief subsequently reproached the people at the fort for 
having degraded his son by making him drunk, and thereby 
exposing him to the laughter of his slaves. 

Each village is governed by its own chief. He possesses little 
authority, and is respected in proportion to the number of wives, 
slaves, &c. which he may keep. The greater number of these, 
the greater the chief. He is entitled, however, to considerable 
posthumous honour ; for at his death the tribe go into mourning 
by cutting their hair, and for some months continue to chant a 
kind of funeral dirge to his memory. As each village forms a 
petty sovereignty, governed by independent chieftains, differ- 
ences often arise between them. These differences are generally 
settled by giving compensation for the injury inflicted ; but in 
the event of a serious offence, such as murder (which is very 
rare), or the abduction of a woman (which is not uncommon), 
the parties prepare for war. 

The great mass of the American Indians, in their warlike 
encounters, fall suddenly on their enemies, and taking them 
unprepared, massacre or capture men, women, and children. 
The plan adopted by the Chinooks forms an honourable excep- 
tion to this system. Having once determined on hostilities, they 
give notice to the enemy of the day on which they intend to 
make the attack : and having previously engaged as auxiliaries a 
number of young men whom they pay for that purpose, they 
embark in their canoes for the scene of action. Several of their 
women accompany them on these expeditions, and assist in 
working the canoes. 

On arriving at the enemy's village they enter into a parley, 
and endeavour by negotiation to terminate the quarrel amicably. 
Sometimes a third party, who preserves a strict neutrality, 
undertakes the office of mediator ; but should their joint efforts 
fail in procuring redress, they immediately prepare for action. 
Should the day be far advanced, the combat is deferred, by 
mutual consent, till the following morning ; and they pass the 
intervening night in frightful yells, and making use of abusive 
and insulting language to each other. They generally fight from 
their canoes, which they take care to incline to one side, pre- 
senting the higher flank to the enemy ; and in this position, with 



AKMOUR — CANOES. 155 

their bodies quite bent, the battle commences. Owing to the 
cover of their canoes, and their impenetrable armour, it is seldom 
bloody ; and as soon as one or two men fall, the party to whom 
they belonged acknowledge themselves vanquished, and the 
combat ceases. If the assailants be unsuccessful, they return 
without redress ; but if conquerors, they receive various presents 
from the vanquished party in addition to their original demand. 
The women and children are always sent away before the 
engagement commences.^^ 

Their warlike weapons are the bow and arrow, with a cu- 
rious kind of short double-edged sword or club, two and a half 
feet in length, by six inches in breadth. They seldom, however, 
fight near enough to make use of this formidable instrument. 

Their armour consists of a shirt of elk-skin, remarkably thick, 
doubled, and thrown over the shoulders, with holes for the 
arms. It descends to the ankles, and from the thickness of the 
leather is perfectly arrow proof. The head is covered by a 
species of helmet made of cedar bark, bear grass, and leather, 
and is also impenetrable by arrows. The neck, therefore, is 
the only vital part of the body exposed to danger in action. In 
addition to the above, they have another kind of armour, which 
they occasionally wear in place of the leathern shirt. It is a 
species of corset, formed of thin slips of hard wood ingeniously 
laced together with bear grass, and is much lighter and more 
pliable than the former, but it does not cover so much of the 
body. They have a few guns, which they seldom use. They 
are not good hunters, and their chief dependence for support is 
on the produce of the water. It is unnecessary to mention that 
in their warlike expeditions their faces and bodies are painted 
in various colours, and with the most grotesque figures. 

Their canoes are of various forms and sizes. The following 
description of the largest kind of these vessels I take from Lewis 
and Clarke. It is perfectly accurate, and more technical than I 
could give it. " They are upwards of fifty feet long, and will 
carry from eight to ten thousand pounds weight, or from twenty 
to thirty persons. Like all the canoes we have mentioned, they 
are cut out of a single trunk of a tree, which is generally white 
cedar, though the fir is sometimes used. The sides are secured 
by cross bars or round sticks, two or three inches in thickness, 
which are inserted through holes made just below the gunwales, 
and made fast with cords. The upper edge of the gunwale 
itself is about five-eighths of an inch thick, and four or five in 
breadth ; and folds outwards so as to form a kind of rim, which 
prevents the water from beating into the boat. The bow and 
stern are about the same height, and each provided with a comb 
reaching to the bottom of the boat. At each end also are pedes* 



156 NAVIGATION — HOUSES. 

tals, formed of the same solid piece,on which are placed strange gro- 
tesque figures of men or animals, rising sometimes to the height of 
five feet, and composed of small pieces of wood firmly united with 
great ingenuity, by inlaying and morticing, without a spike of any 
kind. The paddle is usually from four and a half to five feet in 
length ; the handle being thick for one third of its length, when it 
widens and is hollowed and thinned on each side of the centre, 
which forms a sort of rib. When they embark, one Indian sits in 
the stern and steers with a paddle ; the others kneel in pairs in 
the bottom of the canoe, and sitting on their heels paddle over 
the gunwale next to them. In this way they ride with perfect 
safety the highest waves, and venture without the least concern 
in seas where other boats and seamen could not live an instant. 
They sit quietly and paddle, with no other movement, except 
when any large wave throws the boat on her side, and to the 
eye of the spectator she seems lost : the man to windward 
then steadies her by throwing his body towards the upper side, 
and sinking his paddle deep into the waves, appears to catch 
the water, and force it under the boat, which the same stroke 
pushes on with great velocity." 

The description of their houses, and their manner of building 
them, I also extract from the same authority : 

" The houses in this neighbourhood are all large wooden 
buildings, varying in length from twenty to sixty feet, and from 
fourteen to twenty in width.* They are constructed in the 
following manner : Two or more posts of split timber, agree- 
ably to the number of partitions, are sunk in the ground, above 
which they rise to the height of fourteen or eighteen feet. They 
are hollowed at the top so as to receive the ends of a round 
beam or pole, stretching from one end to the other, and forming 
the upper point of the roof for the whole extent of the building. 
On each side of this range is placed another, which forms the 
eaves of the house, and is about five feet high ; but as the build- 
ing is often sunk to the depth of four or five feet, the eaves come 
very near the surface of the earth. Smaller pieces of timber 
are now extended by pairs in the form of rafters, from the lower 
to the upper beam, where they are attached at both ends with 
cords of cedar bark. On these rafters two or three ranges of 
small poles are placed horizontally, and secured in the same 
way with strings of cedar bark. The sides are now made with 
a range of wide boards sunk a small distance into the ground, 
with the upper ends projecting above the poles at the eaves, to 
which they are secured by a beam passing outside, parallel with 
the eave poles, and tied by cords of cedar bark passing through 

* I have seen some of their houses upwards of 90 feet long, and from 30 to 
40 broad. 



CULINARY OPERATIONS. 157 

holes made in the boards at certain distances. The gable ends 
and partitions are formed in the same way, being fastened by 
beams on the outside, parallel to the rafters. The roof is then 
covered with a double range of thin boards, except an aperture 
of two or three feet in the centre, for the smoke to pass through. 
The entrance is by a small hole cut out of the boards, and just 
large enough to admit the body. The very largest houses only 
are divided by partitions ; for though three or more families re- 
side in the same room, there is quite space enough for all of them. 

" In the centre of each room is a space six or eight feet square, 
sunk to the depth of twelve inches below the rest of the floor, 
and enclosed by four pieces of square timber. Here they make 
the fire, for which purpose pine bark is generally preferred. 
Around this fireplace mats are spread, and serve as seats during 
the day, and very frequently as beds at night : there is, however, 
a more permanent bed made, by fixing in two, or sometimes three 
sides of the room, posts reaching from the roof down to the 
ground, and at the distance of four feet from the wall. From 
these posts to the wall itself one or two ranges of boards are 
placed, so as to form shelves, on which they either sleep, or stow 
their various articles of merchandise. The uncured fish is hung 
in the smoke of their fires, as is also the flesh of the elk, when 
they are fortunate enough to procure any, which is but rarely." 

Their culinary articles consist of a large square kettle made 
of cedar wood, a few platters made of ash, and awkward spoons 
made of the same material. Their mode of cooking is, how- 
ever, more expeditious than ours. Having put a certain quantity 
of water into the kettle, they throw in several hot stones, which 
quickly cause the water to boil ; the fish or meat is then put in, 
and the steam is kept from evaporating by a small mat thrown 
over the kettle. By this system a large salmon will be boiled 
in less than twenty minutes, and meat in a proportionable short 
space of time. They are not scrupulously clean in their cook- 
ing. A kettle in which salmon is boiled in the morning may have 
elk dressed in it the same evening, and the following day be 
doomed to cook a dish of sturgeon, without being washed out, 
or scarcely rinsed. They occasionally roast both their meat 
and fish on small wooden brocheltes, similar to those used by the 
upper Indians. 

It will no doubt be regarded as a subject of surprise, that in 
felling the timber for their houses, and in the laborious operation 
of forming their canoes, they had not, previous to our arrival, 
an axe. Their only instruments consisted of a chisel, generally 
formed out of an old file, a kind of oblong stone, which they 
used as a hammer,and a mallet made of spruce knot, well oiled and 
hardened by the action of fire. With these wretched tools they cut 
down trees from thirty to forty feet in circumference ; and with 



158 GAMING IIAIQUA MEDICAL TREATMENT. 

unparalleled patience and perseverance continued their tedious 
and laborious undertaking until their domicile was roofed, or their 
canoe fit to encounter the turbulent waves of the Columbia. 

As their chief source of subsistence depends on their fisheries, 
they pay great attention to their nets, in the manufacture of which 
they exhibit their usual ingenuity. They occasionally fish with 
the hook and line. They make use of the common straight net, 
the scooping or dipping net, and the gig. Lewis and Clarke 
mention that " the first is of different lengths and depths, and 
used in taking salmon, carr, and trout, in the deep inlets among 
the marshy grounds, and the mouths of deep creeks. The 
scooping net is used for small fish in the spring and summer 
season ; and in both kinds the net is formed of silk grass, or the 
bark of white cedar. The gig is used at all seasons, and for all 
kinds of fish they can procure with it ; so too is the hook and 
line ; of which the line is made of the same material as the net, 
and the hook generally brought by the traders ; though before 
the whites came they made hooks out of two small pieces of 
bone, resembling the European hook, but with a much more 
acute angle, where the two pieces were joined." 

Gambling is one of their most incorrigible vices ; and so invete- 
rately are they attached to it, that the unfortunate gamester often 
finds himself stripped of slaves, beads, haiqua, and even nets. 
Their common game is a simple kind of hazard. One man 
takes a small stone which he changes for some time from hand 
to hand, all the while humming a slow monotonous air. The 
bet is then made ; and according as his adversary succeeds in 
guessing the hand in which the stone is concealed, he wins or 
loses. They seldom cheat ; and submit to their losses with the 
most philosophical resignation. 

Haiqua, which I have so often mentioned, is a white round shell 
of extreme hardness, varying from one to four inches in length, 
and from three-eighths to half an inch in circumference. It is 
hollow, slightly curved, and tapers a little towards the ends. 
These shells are highly estimated, the longest being the most 
valuable. They are found in the neighbourhood of Nootka, and 
form an important article of local traffic. The Indians regulate 
the prices of their various articles by haiqua ; a fathom of the 
best description being equal in value to ten good beaver skins. 

The most enlightened nations are inundated with charlatans ; 
it is therefore not surprising they should flourish among rude 
barbarians. Every Indian village has its quack doctor ; or, as 
they call him, " the strong man of medicine." The moment a 
native is attacked with sickness, no matter of what description, 
the physician is sent for. He immediately commences opera- 
tions by stretching the patient on his back ; while a number of his 
friends and relations surround him, each carrying a long and a 



QUACKERY — FUNERAL RITES. 159 

short stick,'with which they beat time to a mournful air which the 
doctor chants, and in which they join at intervals. Sometimes 
a slave is despatched to the roof of the house, which he bela- 
bours most energetically with his drum-sticks, joining at the same 
time with a loud voice the chorus inside. The man of medicine 
then kneels, and presses with all his force his two fists on the 
patient's stomach. The unfortunate man, tortured with the pain 
produced by this violent operation, utters the most piercing cries ; 
but his voice is drowned by the doctor and the bystanders, who 
chant loud and louder still the mighty " song of medicine." 

At the end of each stanza the operator seizes the patient's 
hands, which he joins together and blows on. He thus continues 
alternately pressing and blowing until a small white stone, which 
he had previously placed in the patient's mouth, is forced out. 
This he exhibits with a triumphant air to the man's relations ; 
and with all the confidence and pomposity of modern quackery, 
assures them the disease is destroyed, and that the patient must 
undoubtedly recover. Mr. Franchere states he has seen some 
of them carefully envelop the small stone, which they call the 
source of evil, in a piece of cedar bark, and throw it into the 
fire. 

It frequently happens that a man, who might have been cured 
by a simple dose of medicine, is by this abominable system de- 
stroyed ; but whether recovery or death be the consequence, the 
quack is equally recompensed. Some of the more intelligent 
undoubtedly perceive the imposition which these fellows prac- 
tise ; but the great faith which the ignorant and superstitious 
multitude have in their skill deters any man from exposing their 
knavery. Latterly, however, numbers of their sick have applied 
for relief and assistance at Fort George ; and as our prescrip- 
tions have been generally attended with success, their belief in 
the infallibility of those jugglers has been considerably weak- 
ened. 

From the doctor to death, the charlatan to the coffin, the 
transition is not unnatural. When a Chinook dies, it matters 
not whether from natural causes or the effects of quackery, his 
remains are deposited in a small canoe, the body being pre- 
viously enveloped in skins or mats. His bow, arrows, and other 
articles are laid by his side. The canoe is then placed on a high 
platform near the river's side, or on rocks out of the reach of 
the tide, and other mats tied over it. If the relations of the 
deceased can afford it, they place a larger canoe reversed over 
the one containing his body, and both are firmly tied together. 
His wives, relatives, and slaves go into mourning by cutting their 
hair ; and for some time after his death repair twice a day, at the 
rising and setting of the sun, to an adjoining wood, to chant his 
funeral dirge. 



160 BIVOUACK — PILFERING. 



CHAPTER XV. 

Voyage to the interior — Party attacked, and one man killed — Arrive at 
Spokan House — Joy of the Indians at our return — The chiefs speech — 
Sketch of Mr. M'Donald — Duel prevented between him and a chief — 
Kettle Indians ; their surprise at seeing white men — Curious account of an 
hermaphrodite chief — Death of Jacques Hoole. 

On the 5th of August, 1814, we left Fort George. Our party, 
including proprietors and clerks, consisted of sixty men, in nine 
heavily loaded canoes. We arrived early the third day at the 
foot of the rapids. It was here our men had been robbed the 
preceding autumn ; and here also Mr. Stewart's party had been 
attacked, and himself wounded the following winter. We 
therefore took more than usual precautions, and formed a strong 
guard to protect the carriers. The natives were numerous, but 
evinced no disposition to be troublesome. As the chief did not 
appear with the flag, a party proceeded to the village and 
inquired for him. They were told he was absent from home. 
The Indian whom we suspected of having fired at Michel was 
also invisible. Their nonappearance looked rather suspicious, 
and induced us to be doubly cautious. By hard labour we 
finished the portage in one day, and encamped at the upper end. 
We arranged the goods and canoes in such a manner as to pre- 
vent a surprise, and the whole party was divided into two 
watches. At intervals during the night we heard footsteps 
among the rocks, and in the woods ; but it passed over quietly, 
and at daybreak we commenced reloading. A few of the 
natives came to us unarmed, and brought with them some fish 
and roots, which we purchased ; and having distributed some 
tobacco among them, pushed off. The day after we reached 
the narrows and falls in safety. 

When the last portage had been nearly finished, numbers of 
the Eneeshurs collected about us, and became very troublesome. 
They made several attempts to pilfer, and we were constrained 
to use some violence to keep them in check. We asked repeat- 
edly for the chief; but were answered that he was in the plains 
hunting : this we did not believe, and finding that they still per- 
severed in seizing every loose article they could pick up, we 
were obliged to order corporeal punishment to be inflicted on 
three of the ringleaders. They went away followed by a nu- 
merous party of their friends. Their looks betokened revenge ; 
and the few who remained told us to be on our guard, as they 



NIGHT ATTACK LOSS OF LIFE. 161 

heard the others talking in a threatening manner. We there- 
fore reloaded quickly, and crossed over to the opposite side. It 
was high and rocky, and possessed many points from which an 
enemy could attack us with effect. The daylight was fast 
receding ; every one lent a hand to work the canoes, and still 
no place presented itself at which we could land with safety. 
With much difficulty and labour we at length reached the long 
rocky island already mentioned ; and as it was then quite dark, 
we had no alternative but to land in a small sandy bay, sur- 
rounded by high craggy rocks, of which the island was chiefly 
composed. We could not procure any wood, and were obliged 
to dine and sup on some cold boiled rice which had been left 
from morning. It was judged advisable not to pitch the tents ; 
and we slept on the beach behind the bales and cases of mer- 
chandise in rather an irregular manner. The first watch, to 
which I belonged, passed over tranquilly ; and we retired to 
sleep at midnight, on being relieved by the second. 

Our repose was not of long continuance. About half an 
hour before daybreak the cry of Les sauvages nous Jltchent ! 
Les sauvages nous jltchent !* rung in our ears, followed by the 
report of several shots. Every man instantly seized his arms, 
and we discharged a volley at a rocky eminence which com- 
manded the little bay, and from which the enemy had fired down 
on our sentinels. This dislodged the savages ; but owing to the 
darkness of the morning, and our ignorance of the interior of 
the island, we did not think it prudent to pursue them. 

It was impossible to ascertain whether any of our balls had 
taken effect on the enemy ; and apprehensive of another attack 
in a spot so badly calculated for defence, and in which we were 
completely exposed, orders were given to load the canoes. In 
the hurry attendant upon this operation we did not at first miss 
one of our men, named Baptiste L'Amoureux, whom we found 
lying wounded at the farther end of the bay, at which he had 
been posted as a sentinel. His moans conducted us to the spot. 
A ball had passed through the left breast, and came out near the 
shoulder. Every assistance was rendered him, but in vain ; he 
never uttered a word ; and ere the morning dawned he had 
ceased to breathe. We did not before imagine these savages 
had any fire-arms among them ; but this event showed we had 
been mistaken. 

No other fatality occurred, although several of the party had 
wonderful escapes. An arrow passed through the collar of one 
man's coat, and the nightcap of another was pierced through. 
Mr. La Rocque and I slept together, and an arrow penetrated 

* The savages are shooting at us with arrows. 

u 



102 JOURNEY RESUMED — EXAGGERATIONS. 

six inches into the ground between our necks. Our safety may 
in a great degree be attributed to a number of the arrows having 
been intercepted by the bales and cases of trading goods. 

The canoes were quickly loaded, and at daybreak we pushed 
off from this dangerous spot. As we paddled up the south side 
of the river, some arrows were discharged at us from the island. 
We fired a few shots in return ; but from the manner the assail- 
ants were covered, we conjectured our balls fell harmless. 

On nearing the upper end of the island, we caught a passing 
view of forty or fifty of the savages not more than two hundred 
yards distant. Orders were immediately given to those who 
had their guns ready to fire ; but before a trigger was pulled 
they had vanished. We landed at the spot ; and a few of us, 
who ascended the rocks, observed them at a considerable distance 
running like hunted deer. We discharged a few random shots 
after them, upon which we re-embarked, and proceeded on our 
voyage. At half past eight we put ashore at a low sandy point 
covered with willows and cotton wood, for the purpose of break- 
fasting and interring the body of L'Amoureux. The men were 
immediately set to work to dig a grave, into which were lowered 
the remains of the unfortunate Canadian. A few short prayers 
were said in French ; and after the earth was thrown in, to a level 
with the surface, it was covered over with dry sand in such a 
manner as to keep the natives in ignorance of the occurrence. 

We remained here a few hours to refit, at the end of which 
we resumed our journey. We saw no Indians during the 
remainder of the day, and encamped late on a low stony island, 
above a rapid, on which we found plenty of drift wood. The 
following day we passed a few villages of the friendly tribes, 
from whom we purchased some horses for the kettle. From 
hence to the Wallah Wallahs, with whom we stopped one day, 
nothing particular occurred. They received us in their usual 
friendly manner ; and on inquiring from them to what tribe the 
Indians belonged who had given my small party such a chase 
the preceding autumn, they replied that they were relatives of 
the man who had been hanged by Mr. Clarke on Lewis River, 
and were part of the Upper Nez Perces ; that they were very 
bad people, much addicted to thieving, and that we should be 
very cautious how we fell in their way, as they had vowed to 
kill a white man as a satisfaction for the death of their relation. 

We met a few of the Nez Perces at the mouth of Lewis 
River : they appeared friendly, and sold us some horses. From 
this place nothing particular occurred until the 23d of August, 
on which day we arrived at Oakinagan. The news of the attack 
had preceded us, accompanied by the usual exaggerations of 
Indians. Mr. Ross, who was in charge of that establishment, 



INDIAN HARANGUE. 163 

informed us that the first intelligence he received stated that ten 
white men and twenty Indians had been killed. By other 
accounts our loss was varied from fifteen to twenty, and one 
statement destroyed half the party, and sent the remainder back 
to the sea, with the loss of all the goods. 

From this place Mr. Keith proceeded with despatches to the 
other side of the mountains ; and the various parties separated 
for their summer destinations. Mine was Spokan House, in 
company with Messrs. Stewart, M'Millan, and M'Donald. We 
left Oakinagan on the 27th, and reached Spokan on the 31st of 
August. The trading goods had been exhausted long before, 
and the Indians had been upwards of two months without ammu- 
nition. Our arrival, therefore, was hailed with great joy. 

The whole tribe assembled round the fort, and viewed with 
delight the kegs of powder and the bales of tobacco as they were 
unloaded from the horses. A large circle was formed in the 
court-yard, into the centre of which we entered ; and having lit 
the friendly calumet, smoked a few rounds to celebrate the 
meeting. A quantity of tobacco was then presented to each of 
the men, and the chief delivered a long oration ; part of which, 
addressing us, ran as follows : — 

"My heart is glad to see you: my heart is glad to see you. 
We were a long time very hungry for tobacco ; and some of our 
young men said you would never come back. They were angry, 
and said to me, ' The white men made us love tobacco almost 
as much as we love our children, and now we are starving for 
it. They brought us their wonderful guns, which we traded 
from them ; we threw by our arrows as useless, because we 
knew they were not so strong to kill the deer as the guns ; and 
now we are idle with our guns, as the white men have no fire- 
powder, or balls, to give us, and we have broken our arrows, and 
almost forgotten how to use them : the white men are very bad, 
and have deceived us.' But I spoke to them, and I said, You 
are fools ; you have no patience. The white men's big canoes 
are a long time coming over the Stinking Lake* that divides 
their country from ours. They told me on going away that they 
would come back, and I know they would not tell lies." Then 
turning to his countrymen, he continued, " Did I not tell you that 
the white men would not tell lies ? You are fools, great fools, 
and have no patience. Let us now show our joy at meeting 
our friends ; and to-morrow let all our hunters go into the plains, 
and up the hills, and kill birds and deer for the good white men." 
They then commenced dancing, jumping, and crying out in a 
most discordant manner. 

* The Sea. So called from its saline qualities. 



164 LIVE-STOCK HETEROGENEOUS LINGUIST. 

The good white men, the good white men, 
Our hearts are glad for the good white men. 

The good white men, the good white men, 
Dance and sing for the good white men. 

Then giving three cheers, something like the " Hip, hip, hurra !" 
of our domestic bacchanalians, they retired to the village. 

The next morning the hunters procured a fresh stock- of am- 
munition, and, for some weeks following, our table was plenti- 
fully supplied with excellent grouse, wild geese, and ducks, in 
prime order. We had planted the year before some turnips, 
potatoes, cabbage, and other esculents, which yielded a pretty 
good crop. The quantity was increased the following spring ; 
and this autumn we had an abundance of these vegetables. 
We had brought up a cock, three hens, three goats, and three 
hogs. The Indians were quite astonished at beholding them. 
They called the fowl " the white men's grouse ;" the goats were 
denominated " the white men's deer ;" and the swine " the white 
men's bears." They inquired if animals of the above descrip- 
tion were ail tame in our country ; and on being answered in the 
affirmative, they asked, if they caught some of those to which 
they compared them, could we tame them in a similar manner ? 
we told them to catch a few young ones, and we would make 
the attempt. A young bear was shortly secured : he was tied in 
the stye with the pigs, and fed daily by one of our Canadians, 
of whom he became very fond, and who in a short time taught 
him to dance, beg, and play many tricks, which delighted the 
Indians exceedingly. 

While we were here a curious incident occurred between 
Mr. M'Donald and an Indian, which I shall preface by a short 
account of the former. He belonged to a highly respectable 
family, which emigrated from Inverness-shire to Canada while 
he was a lad. His first accents were lisped in Gaelic ; but in 
the capital of the Highlands, so celebrated for its pure English, he 
made considerable progress in our language. On arriving in 
Canada he was obliged to learn French, in which he had made 
some proficiency, when he joined the North-west Company as 
an apprentice-clerk. At the period I speak of he had been ten 
years absent from Canada, and had travelled over an immense 
extent of Indian country. He seldom remained more than one 
winter at any particular place, and had a greater facility of ac- 
quiring than of retaining the language of the various tribes with 
whom he came in contact. He was subject to temporary fits 
of abstraction, during which the country of his auditory was 
forgotten, and their lingual knowledge set at defiance by the 
most strange and ludicrous melange of Gaelic, English, French, 
and half a dozen Indian dialects. Whenever any thing occur- 



SQUABBLE CUM0US DIALOGUE. 1G5 

red to ruffle his temper, it was highly amusing to hear him give 
vent to his passion in Diaouls, God d — s, Sacres, and invocations 
of the "evil spirit" in Indian : he was, however, a good-natured, 
inoffensive companion, easily irritated, and as easily appeased. 
His appearance was very striking : in height he was six feet 
four inches, with broad shoulders, large bushy whiskers, and red 
hair, which for some years had not felt the scissors, and which 
sometimes falling over his face and shoulders, gave to his coun- 
tenance a wild and uncouth appearance. He had taken a Spo- 
kan wife, by whom he had two children. A great portion of 
his leisure time was spent in the company of her relations, by 
whom, and indeed by the Indians in general, he was highly be- 
loved : their affection, however, was chastened by a moderate 
degree of fear, with which his gigantic body and indomitable 
bravery inspired them. 

One day as we were sitting down to dinner, one of our men, 
followed by a native, rushed into the dining-room, and requested 
we would instantly repair to the village to prevent bloodshed, 
as Mr. M'Donald was about to fight a duel with one of the 
chiefs. We ran to the scene of action, and found our friend sur- 
rounded by a number of Indians, all of whom kept at a respect- 
ful distance. He had his fowling-piece, which he changed 
from one hand to the other, and appeared violently chafed. 
The chief stood about twenty yards from him, and the follow- 
ing colloquy took place between them, which, for the information 
of my unlearned readers, I shall translate. 

M'D.— "Come on, now, you rascal! you toad! you dog! 
Will you fight?" 

Indian. — " I will : — but you're a foolish man. A chief should 
not be passionate. I always thought the white chiefs were wise 
men." 

M'D. — " I want none of your jaw : I say you cheated me. 
You're a dog ! Will you fight ?" 

Indian. — " You arc not wise. You get angry like a woman ; 
but I will fight. Let us go to the wood. Are you ready?" 

M'D. — "Why, you d — d rascal, what do you mean? I'll 
fight you here. Take your distance like a brave man, face to 
face, and we '11 draw lots for the first shot, or fire together, which- 
ever you please." 

Indian. — "You are a greater fool than I thought you were. 
Who ever heard of a wise warrior standing before his enemy's 
gun to be shot at like a dog ? No one but a fool of a white man 
would do so." 

M'D. — "What do you mean? What way do you want to fight?" 

Indian. — " The way that all red warriors fight. Let us take 
our guns, and retire to yonder wood ; place yourself behind one 



16G SKETCH OF CHARACTER. 

tree, and I will take my stand behind another, and then we shall 
see who will shoot the other first !" 

M'D. — " You are afraid, and you're a coward." 

Indian. — " I am not afraid ; and you're a fool." 

M'D. — " Come then, d — n my eyes if I care. Here's at you 
your own way." And he was about proceeding to the wood, 
when we interfered, had the combatants disarmed, and after 
much entreaty induced our brave Gael to return to the fort. 

The quarrel originated in a gambling transaction, in which 
M'Donald imagined he had been cheated, and under that im- 
pression struck the chief, and called him a rogue. The latter 
told him he took advantage of his size and strength, and 
that he would not meet him on equal terms with his gun. This 
imputation roused all his ire. He instantly darted into the field 
with his fowling-piece, followed by the chief, when by our arri- 
val we prevented an encounter which in all probability would 
have proved fatal to our friend. 

The gigantic figure, long red flowing locks, foaming mouth, 
and violent gesticulation of M'Donald, presented a striking and 
characteristic contrast to the calm and immutable features of 
the chieftain. His inflexible countenance was, for a moment, 
disturbed by something like a smile, when he told his opponent 
that no one but a fool would stand before a gun to be shot at like 
a dog. In fact, M'Donald's proposition appeared to him so 
much at variance with his received notions of wisdom, that he 
could not comprehend how any man in his senses could make 
such an offer. On explaining to him afterward the civilized 
mode of deciding gentlemanly quarrels, he manifested the utmost 
incredulity, and declared that he could not conceive how people 
so wise in other respects, should be guilty of such foolishness. 
But when we assured him in the most positive manner that we 
were stating facts, he shook his head, and said, " I see plainly 
there are fools every where." 

M'Donald was a most extraordinary and original character. 
To the gentleness of a lamb he united the courage of a lion. 
He was particularly affectionate to men of small size, whether 
equals or inferiors, and would stand their bantering with the 
utmost good-humour : but if any man approaching his own 
altitude presumed to encroach too far on his good-nature, a 
lowering look and distended nostrils warned the intruder of an 
approaching eruption. 

One of our Canadian voyageurs, named Bazil Lucie, a re- 
markably strong man, about six feet three inches high, with a 
muscular frame, and buffalo neck, once said something which he 
thought bordered on disrespect. Any man under five feet ten 
might have made use of the same language with impunity, but 



FISTY-CUFFS INDIAN WAItPARfi. 107 

from such a man as Lucie, who was a kind of bully over his 
comrades, it could not be borne ; he accordingly told him to 
hold his tongue, and threatened to chastise him if he said 
another word. This was said before several of the men, and 
Lucie replied by saying that he might thank the situation he 
held for his safety, or he should have satisfaction sur Ic cluvrnp. 
M'Donald instantly fired, and asked him if he would fight with 
musket, sword, or pistol; but Lucie declared he had no notion 
of fighting in that manner, adding that his only weapons were 
his fists. The pugnacious Celt resolving not to leave him any 
chance of escape, stripped oil' his coat, called him un enfant de 
chienne, and challenged him to fight comme tin polisson. Lucie 
immediately obeyed the call, and to work they fell. I was not 
present at the combat ; but some of the men told me that in less 
than ten minutes Bazil was completely disabled, and was unfit 
to work for some weeks after. 

M'Donald frequently, for the mere love of fighting, accom- 
panied the Flat-heads in their war excursions against the Black- 
feet. His eminent bravery endeared him to the whole tribe, 
and in all matters relating to warfare his word was a law. The 
folowing anecdote, which was related to me by several Indians, 
will at once show his steady courage and recklessness of danger. 
In the summer of 1812, at the buffalo plains, they fell in with a 
strong party of the Black-feet, and a severe contest ensued. 
M'Donald was to be seen in every direction, in the hottest of 
the fire, cheering and animating his friends ; and they at length 
succeeded in driving the Black-feet to take shelter in a thick 
cluster of trees, from whence they kept up a constant and galling 
fire on the Flat-heads, by which a few were killed, and several 
wounded. In vain he exerted all his influence to induce his 
friends to storm the trees, and drive the enemy from their cover. 
Their mode of attack was extremely foolish, and productive of 
no benefit ; for each warrior advanced opposite to the spot 
from whence the Black-feet fired, and after discharging a 
random shot into the group of trees, instantly galloped away. 
M'Donald, vexed at this puerile method of fighting, offered to 
take the lead himself to dislodge the enemy: but, with the 
exception of the war-chief, they all refused to join him. He 
therefore resolved to try the effect of example, and putting his 
horse into a smart trot, rode opposite to the place from whence 
the chief fire of the Black-feet proceeded : he then dismounted, 
took a deliberate aim at the head of a fellow which had just 

Sopped from behind a tree, and let fly. The bullet entered the 
►lack-foot's mouth, and he fell. A shower of balls instantly 
whizzed about M'Donald and his horse ; but he, undismayed, 
reloaded, while his friends cried out and besought him to retire. 



168 NARROW ESCAPE — THE CHAUDIERES. 

He covered another in the same manner, who also fell, after 
which he calmly remounted, and galloped to his party uninjured. 
A prisoner, who was subsequently taken, declared that the only 
two killed of those who had taken refuge among the trees, were 
both shot in the head by the " big white chief," as they termed 
our friend. His friends at Forts des Prairies repeatedly wrote 
to him that the Black-feet complained greatly of his having joined 
the Flat-heads, who had, by his assistance and that of Michel, 
become powerful, and that they vowed vengeance against them 
if ever they fell in their way ; but M'Donald paid no attention 
either to their warning or our entreaties. War was his glory, 
and "piping peace" his aversion. Up to the period I quitted the 
Columbia he escaped harmless ; but I regret to state that a few 
years afterward, one of the enemy's balls brought him to the 
ground : half-a-dozen savages instantly rushed on him, and com- 
menced hacking his scull with their tomahawks : the scalping- 
knife was in the act of beginning its dreadful operation, and in 
a moment all would have been over, had not the war-chief, 
accompanied by a few friends, dashed to his assistance, killed 
three of the Black-feet, and rescued their benefactor from 
impending death. He subsequently recovered ; but I under- 
stand the wounds he then received have left evident traces 
of their violence on his bold and manly front. 

About seven hundred miles from Fort George, and ninety 
from Spokan House, there is an immense fall in the Columbia, 
between sixty and seventy feet perpendicular at low water, and 
about forty-five in the spring and early part of the summer, 
when the melting of the snow contributes to swell the mighty 
torrent. The basin at the foot of the cascade resembles a boil- 
ing cauldron, in consequence of which the fall is called " La 
Chaudiere." A small tribe, called " Les Chaudieres," reside at 
this place : their village is situated on the north side, just below 
the fall, where they remain the greater part of the year. They 
take little beaver ; but their lands are well stocked with game 
and fish ; there is also abundance of wild fruit, such as choke- 
cherries, currants, small strawberries, with black and blue 
berries. They take vast quantities of salmon, which they dry 
and preserve for use during the winter and spring months. 
Cleanliness cannot be ranked amongst their virtues. Their 
habitations are filthy in the extreme, and the surrounding atmo- 
sphere is impregnated with the most noxious effluvia, produced 
by the piscatory offals which lie scattered about their dwellings. 
I visited their village in September in company with my friend 
M'Donald, his wife, some of her relations,and two of our own men. 
They received us in a friendly manner, and treated us to abun- 
dance of roast and boiled salmon. A small branch of this tribe 



INDIAN CURIOSITY — CHIEF. 169 

reside in the interior, about a day and a half's march to the 
northward. A family of them, consisting of a father, mother, 
and several children, arrived at the falls the day before us. 
They had never seen white men, and their astonishment was 
extreme at the great contrast exhibited between the tall raw- 
boned figure, and flowing red hair of my friend, compared to the 
cropped head, John-Bullish face, low, and somewhat corpulent 
person of the author. The old woman requested to see my 
arms uncovered ; and having gratified her, she begged to see 
my breast. I accordingly opened my shirt, and she at length 
became satisfied that the skin was all white, of which she ap- 
peared previously to entertain some doubts. Her curiosity was 
next directed to what she looked upon as the supernatural colour 
of M'Donald's hair, and expressed a wish to have a close 
examination of it: he complied, and having sat down, she 
commenced an inquisitorial search about its radical terminations, 
after certain animalculi, which shall be nameless. She appeared 
much disappointed at not finding a solitary " ferlie," the absence 
of which she attributed to the extraordinary colour of his hair, 
which she said frightened them away. Then turning to me, 
and observing mine was of a darker hue, she asked if I would 
allow her to take a " look." I immediately consented ; but her 
eyes and digits having for some time toiled in vain, she appeared 
annoyed at her want of success, and rose up quite vexed, de- 
claring we were altogether " too clean." 

We visited a small tribe, consisting of not more than fifteen 
families, who occupied a few hunting lodges about midway 
between Spokan House and the Chaudiere falls : their language 
is a dialect of that spoken by the natives of the above places, but 
approaching more nearly to the Spokan. Their immediate 
lands consist of beautiful open prairies, bounded by clear woods, 
and interspersed with small rivulets and lakes. The latter are 
visited in the autumnal months by numbers of wild geese and 
ducks, and their hills are well stocked with grouse. They are 
an inoffensive race, and received us with every demonstration 
of friendship. We remained a week among them, during which 
period we had excellent sport. The aquatic birds were large 
and fat ; and the grouse much beyond ours in size ; and so tame, 
that they seldom took wing until we approached within a few 
yards of them. 

The chief of this tribe is an extraordinary being. The In- 
dians allege that he belongs to the epicene gender. He wears a 
woman's dress, overloaded with a profusion of beads, thimbles, 
and small shells ; add to which, the upper part of the face and 
the manner of wearing the hair are quite feminine ; but these 
appearances are more than counterbalanced by a rough beard, 

A. 



170 

U MORAL PHILOSOPHY, 

and a masculine tone of voice wni^n ,xr rt . u 
virility beyond dispute. He Svw £LE 8eem t0 SCt his 
either- sexfand he £ regarded rt.tt™ ,! W0C S" Wi "} 
awe by both men and women who llf T' " of fear and 
more man human. He has a e^m and ratK", 11 ™ aS S ° methin « 

from the largest and poorest families a fresh set of juvenFe do 
STo\X P o^de t drr ken ° "*"** ^ «WS£ 
are T thp fin!? [ P ° S % Sses a lar S e nu mber of horses, some of which 

cnsy so common among Indians; and if he finds Infu 

we were received with a degree of courteous hospSv wh i c h 
I never experienced elsewhere. He was communicative^ and 
inquisitive, and ridiculed the follies of the Indians in £'^0^ 
philosophical manner. Of these he inveighed principally against 
gambling and their improvident thoughtfessness in n<XtK 
provide, during the summer and autumnal months, a^ufficfem 

S£ °bv wr r lm T f ° r J' 6 ! prin S' whlch is tke season of 
scaic.ty; by which neglect they have been frequently reduced 
to starvation He had heard of McDonald's quarrel with the 
Indian, which he adduced as one of the bad Effects r^utng 

to°?ollfw m t b h in f' ?? added ' "S ad the S P° kan been mad enS 
to follow the foolish custom of your countrymen it is orobahlP 
one of you would have been kilfed about a Lm*^1^ 
out of a bad practice, which every wise man should avoid " 

He inquired particularly about our form of government, laws 
customs, marriages, our ideas of a future life, &c. Our answeS 
proved generally satisfactory ; but the only two things he could 
not reconcile to wisdom, was the law of primogeniture, and the 

he" IT t dUeIhng , : thG firSt ', hG Said ' Was S™ s "W^ ; and 
he bought no one but a man bereft of his senses could be guilty 

Snni f • ° Ur kn °- W . ,edge ° f his ]a "guage was neceslarilv 

mperfect, owing to which, the attempts I made to explain to 

him some of the abstruse doctrines of our religion were rather 

bungling ; but he appeared much pleased whenever he ascer- 



INDIAN PHILOSOPHER SINGULAR CHARACTER. 171 

tained that he comprehended what I wished to convey ; and, at 
the conclusion of our discourse, said he would be glad to con- 
verse with some of the wise men we call priests on these mat- 
ters, and more particularly on the subject of a future state. 

He is fond of tobacco ; and the Indians say they often see 
him sitting late at night, enjoying his calumet at the door of his 
tent, and observing the various revolutions in the firmament. On 
all subjects, therefore, connected with the changes of weather, 
his opinion is deemed oracular, and I understand he is seldom or 
never mistaken in his prognostications. 

Although clothed in the garments of a female, I have hitherto 
classed this uncommon being among the masculine portion of the 
human race ; and from his muscular frame, bushy beard, and 
strong decided tone of voice, I conceive myself justified in so 
doing. I never saw him angry but once, and that was occa- 
sioned by observing some private whispering and tittering going 
on in his presence, which he suspected had some allusion to his 
doubtful gender. His countenance instantly assumed a savage 
fierceness ; but he quickly regained his composure on finding 
the supposed offenders had changed their conduct. 

His dwelling was covered with large deer-skins, and was 
completely water-proof. The interior was remarkably clean, 
and spread over with mats. In one corner he had a stock of 
dried provisions, stored in leather and mat bags, which in periods 
of scarcity he shared liberally among the tribe ; in fact he wanted 
nothing that could add to his happiness or comfort, and possessed 
a degree of calm contentment uncommon among savages, and 
which would put to the blush much of the philosophical wisdom 
of civilized man. 

While preparing for our autumnal journey to the sea, we 
learned that one of our free hunters, named Jacques Hoole, 
had been murdered by the Black-feet. His too was a character 
hors du commuji. He was a native of France, and had been a 
soldier. He began his military career in Scotland in 1745, was 
slightly wounded and made prisoner at Culloden , after being 
exchanged he was sent to Canada, and was actively engaged in 
the old American war. He was present in the battle on Abra- 
ham's Plains, when the gallant Wolfe lost his life, and was one of 
the men who assisted in carrying the Marquis de Montcalm into 
Quebec, after he had received his death-wound. 

The conquest of Canada induced him to quit the army : he 
married and became a farmer. On the revolutionary war 
breaking out, the gallant veteran bade adieu to the plough, 
became a sergeant of militia, and for the second time stood the 
siege of Quebec ; in a sorte from wliich he received a wound in 



172 JOURNEY RENEWED, 

the knee, which caused a slight lameness during the remainder 
of his life. 

On the termination of the war, misfortunes came crowding on 
him. The republicans had destroyed his farm ; his wife proved 
faithless, and his children disobedient. He therefore determined to 
proceed with some traders to the interior of the Indian country. 
He would not engage in the service of the Company, but pre- 
ferred trapping beaver on his own account, which he afterward 
disposed of at the nearest trading post. This extraordinary old 
man was ninety-two years of age at the period of his death. I 
saw him the year before, and he then possessed much of the 
lightness and elasticity of youth, with all the volatility of a French- 
man. His only luxury was tobacco, of which he consumed an 
incredible quantity. From his great age he was called " Pere 
Hoole." The Canadians treated him with much respect, and 
their common salutation of " Bon jour, pere," was answered by 
" Merct, Merer, mon jils" His body was found by the Flat- 
heads, close to a beaver dam : — a ball had penetrated his tem- 
ples, and the few white hairs that remained on his aged head did 
not prevent his inhuman butchers from stripping it of the scalp. 
His clothes remained on him ; but his horses, traps, and arms 
had been taken by the murderers. 



CHAPTER XVI. 



The party attacked by the natives at the Wallah Wallah river — Two killed — 
Encamp on an island for safety — Indians demand two white men as a sac- 
rifice — Arrival of a chieftain — His speech, and peace restored. 

On the 24th of October we proceeded over-land with the 
produce of the summer's trade to the Oakinagan, where, being 
joined by the people of that district, we embarked for Fort 
George, at which place we arrived on the 8th of November. 

There were few natives at the falls or rapids, and they con- 
ducted themselves quietly. We examined the spot in which 
we had interred poor LAmoureux, and found it untouched. 
The low state of the water at this advanced season caused us 
to make a few decharges, which would not have been necessary 
in the summer : it however enabled us to shoot down the great 
narrows below the falls without taking out a pack. We re- 
mained only a few days at Fort George, from which place we 
took our departure for the interior on the 18th of November. 



ATTEMPT TO PLUNDER ATTACK. 173 

We had eight canoes, and our party consisted of Messrs. Keith, 
Stewart, La Rocque, M'Tavish, M'Donald, M'Millan, M'Kay, 
M'Kenzie, Montour, and myself. We had fifty-four canoe-men, 
including six Sandwich islanders. We passed in safety the 
places where hostility was apprehended ; and the day after we 
had passed the fulls we tlirew by our leathern armour as no 
longer necessary, and the men stowed their muskets into long 
cases, which were placed under the trading goods in the bottom 
of the canoes. 

On arriving a few miles above the entrance of the Wallah 
Wallah river, at a place about equidistant between that and 
Lewis River, a number of canoes filled with natives paddled 
down on our brigade, apparently without any hostile design. 
We were on the south side, and advancing slowly with the poles. 
Mr. Keith was in the first canoe, Mr. Stewart in the second, 
Messrs. La Rocque and M'Millan in the third, Messrs. M'Don- 
ald and M'Kay in the fourth, M'Tavish and I in the fifth, 
Montour in the sixth, M'Kenzie in the seventh, and Pierre Mi- 
chel, the interpreter, in the eighth. 

The Indians at first asked a little tobacco from Mr. Keith, 
which he gave them : they then proceeded to Mr. Stewart, who 
also gave them a small quantity ; after which they dropped 
down on Messrs. La Rocque and M'Millan, from whose canoe 
they attempted to take some goods by force, but were repulsed 
by the men, who struck their hands with the paddles. They 
next came to M'Donald, and seized a bale of tobacco which 
was in the forepart of his canoe, which they attempted to take 
out. At the same time my canoe was stopped, as well as those 
in the rear, and a determined resolution was evinced to plunder 
us by force. 

We were awkwardly circumstanced : the only arms at hand 
were those in the possession of the officers ; and with the ex- 
ception of paddles the men had no weapons ready. Anxious 
to avoid coming to extremities as long as possible, without 
compromising our character, we endeavoured to keep them in 
check with the paddles ; but our efforts were unavailing, and 
some hard blows were given and received. Still we refrained 
from the dernier ressort, and Mr. Keith gave orders not to fire 
while there was a possibility of preserving the property. The 
fellow who had seized the bale in M'Donald's canoe was a tall 
athletic man : he resisted all their entreaties to let it go, and 
had taken it partly out of the canoe, when M'Kay gave him a 
- severe blow with the butt end of his gun, which obliged him to 
drop the prize. He instantly placed an arrow in his bow, which 
he presented at M'Donald ; but the latter coolly stretched forth 
his brawny arm, seized the arrow, which he broke and threw 



174 SKIRMISH — ENCAMPMENT. 

into the fellow's face. The savage, enraged at being thus foiled, 
ordered his canoe to push off, and was just in the act of letting 
fly another arrow when M'Kay fired, and hit him in the fore- 
head. He instantly fell ; upon which two of his companions 
bent their bows ; but before their arrows had time to wing their 
flight M'Donald's double-barrelled gun stopped them. He shot 
one between the eyes, and the ball from the second barrel 
lodged in the shoulder of the survivor. The moment they fell 
a shower of arrows was discharged at us ; but owing to the 
undulating motion of their canoes, as well as ours, we escaped 
uninjured. Orders were now issued to such as had their arms 
ready to fire ; but in a moment our assailants became invisible. 
After they had discharged their arrows, they had thrown them- 
selves prostrate in their canoes, which, drifting rapidly down 
the current, were quickly carried beyond the reach of our shot. 

We lost no time in putting ashore for the purpose of arming 
the men, and distributing ammunition. The few Indians who 
were on our side of the river fled on seeing us land, and those 
who had gained the opposite bank fired several shots at us ; but 
owing to the great distance their balls fell short. The Colum- 
bia at this place was nearly a mile wide ; night was fast approach- 
ing, and it was necessary to select a proper place for an en- 
campment, at which we might remain until measures should be 
adopted for bringing about a reconciliation with the natives. A 
short distance higher up in the centre of the river lay a narrow 
island, about two miles in length, quite low, void of timber, and 
covered with small stones and sand. It was deemed the safest 
place to withstand an attack or prevent a surprise ; and orders 
were therefore given to collect as much driftwood as possible 
on the main shore for the purpose of cooking. This was speed- 
ily effected, after which we pushed off; but had not proceeded 
more than one hundred yards, when several arrows were dis- 
charged at us from the side we had just left, although at the time 
we embarked no Indian was visible for miles around. One man 
was slightly wounded in the neck, and another rather severely 
in the shoulder. A few of the arrows struck the canoes, but 
the greater part did not reach us. We however gained the 
island without further injury, and forthwith proceeded to in- 
trench ourselves behind a line of sandbanks, by which we were 
effectually covered from the range of the enemy's shot from 
either side. 

The brigade was divided into three watches. The night was 
dark, cold, and stormy, with occasional showers of rain. It was 
judged prudent to extinguish the camp fires, lest their light might 
serve as a beacon to the Indians in attacking us. This precau- 
tion, although by no means relished by the men, probably saved 



PERILOUS SITUATION — OMENS. 175 

the party ; for, about an hour before daybreak, several of the 
savages were discovered close to the camp, which they were 
silently approaching on their hands and feet ; but on being fired 
at by our sentinels they quickly retreated, apprehensive of injur- 
ing each other in the dark ; and shortly after we heard the sound 
of their paddles quitting the island. 

Our meditations this night were far from pleasing ; and when 
we reflected on the hopelessness of our situation, in the centre 
of a great river, the natives on each side of which were brave, 
powerful, and hostile ; our numbers comparatively few, and the 
majority men in whose courage we could not confide ; added to 
which, the impossibility of procuring the least assistance, we 
almost despaired of being able to join our friends in the interior. 
"We therefore made up our minds for the worst ; interchanged 
short notes directed to such of our friends as we felt anxious 
should know our fate, and resolved to sell our lives dearly. 

Shortly after daybreak a council of war was held ; and after 
some discussion, we determined to quit the island, demand a 
parley, and offer a certain quantity of goods to appease the rela- 
tions of the deceased. 

The only dissentient to a compromise was our Highland friend 
M'Donald, whose spirit could not brook the idea of purchasing 
safety from Indians. 

It blew a strong gale during the day, which prevented us from 
embarking, and constrained us to pass another melancholy night 
on the island, without wood sufficient to make a solitary fire. 

Towards midnight the storm subsided ; the sky was dark, and 
not a star twinkled through the gloomy atmosphere. Mr. Keith 
commanded the second watch, and I was sitting with him at the 
extremity of the camp, when we observed a large fire on a hill 
in a north-west direction. It was immediately answered by one 
in the opposite point, which was followed by others to the east- 
ward and westward ; while the indistinct sounds of paddles from 
canoes crossing and recrossing, afforded strong proofs that our 
enemies, by vigilant watching and constant communication, had 
determined that we should not escape them in the dark. 

Shortly after these threatening indications a flight of ravens 
passed quietly over our heads, the fluttering of whose wings was 
scarcely audible. Some of the Canadians were near us, and one 
of them, named Landreville, in rather a dejected tone, said to 
his comrades, " My friends, it is useless to hope. Our doom is 
fixed : to-morrow we shall die." " Cher frere, what do you 
mean?" eagerly inquired half-a-dozen voices. "Behold yon 
ravens," he replied ; " their appearance by night in times of 
danger betokens approaching death. I cannot be mistaken. 



1T6 RESOLUTION. 

They know our fate, and will hover about us until the arrows 
of the savages give them a banquet on our blood." 

Landreville in other respects was a steady sensible man, but, 
like his countrymen, deeply imbued with superstitious ideas. Mr. 
Keith saw the bad impression which these ominous forebodings 
was likely to produce on the men, and at once determined to 
counteract it. This he knew it would have been useless to 
attempt by reasoning with people whose minds such absurd 
notions would have closed against conviction, and therefore 
thought it better to combat their prejudices with their own 
weapons. " I have no doubt, my friends," said he, " that the 
appearance of ravens at night portends either death or some 
great disaster. We believe the same thing in Scotland ; the 
opinion prevails throughout all Europe, and you have inherited 
it from your French ancestors ; but at the same time, I must tell 
you, that no fatality is ever apprehended, except their appear- 
ance is accompanied by croaking ; then indeed the most direful 
consequences are likely to follow ; but when their flight is calm 
and tranquil, as we have just witnessed, they are always the 
harbingers of good news." This well-timed reply completely 
dissipated their fears, and the poor fellows exclaimed, " You are 
right, sir, you are right. We believe you, sir ; you speak 
reason. Courage, friends ; there's no danger." 

The morning of the 1st of December rose cold and bright 
over the plains of the Columbia, as we prepared to quit our 
cheerless encampment. The voyageurs were all assembled 
by Mr. Keith, who told them that every exertion consistent with 
reason should be adopted towards effecting an amicable arrange- 
ment ; but that it was absolutely necessary to show the savages 
a bold front, and that while we tendered them the hand of peace, 
we should make them feel that we were not influenced by the 
dread of war. He reminded them of the many glorious deeds 
performed in Canada by their gallant French ancestors, a few 
hundreds of whom often defeated as many thousand Indians ; 
and concluded by expressing a hope that they would not degene- 
rate from the bravery of their forefathers. They replied by three 
cheers, and declared themselves ready to obey all his orders. 

He next addressed the Sandwich islanders, and asked them, 
would they fight the bad people who had attempted to rob us, 
in case it was necessary ? Their answer was laconic : " Missi 
Keit, we kill every man you bid us." So far all was satisfac- 
tory ; and after having examined their muskets, and giving each 
man an additional glass of rum, we embarked, and in a few 
minutes reached the northern shore, where we landed. Two 
men were left in each canoe ; and the remainder of the party, 



PARLEY DEATH SONG INDIAN CHARACTER. 177 

amounting to forty-eight, including all the known shades of 
humanity, ascended the bank. None of the natives were visible, 
and we remained about half an hour undecided as to what course 
we should adopt, when a few mounted Indians made their ap- 
pearance at some distance. Michel, the interpreter, was sent 
forward alone, carrying a long pole, to which was attached a 
white handkerchief,'and hailed them several times without ob- 
taining an answer. 

They appeared to understand the import of our white flag ; 
and after a little hesitation two of them approached, and de- 
manded to know what we had to say ? Michel replied that the 
white chiefs were anxious to see their chiefs and elders, and to 
have a " talk" with them on the late disagreeable affair. One 
of them replied that he would inform his friends, and let us know 
the result ; upon which he and his companion galloped off. 
They returned in a short time, and stated that the neighbouring 
chiefs, with the friends and relatives of the men who had been 
killed, would join us immediately. 

In less than half an hour a number of mounted Indians ap- 
peared, preceded by about one hundred and fifty warriors on 
foot, all well armed with guns, spears, tomahawks, bows, and 
well-furnished quivers. They stopped within about fifty yards 
of our party. Among them we recognised several of the 
Wallah Wallahs ; but in vain looked for our old friend Tamtap- 
pam, their chief: he was absent. 

A group of between thirty and forty equally well armed now 
approached from the interior. Their hair was cut short, as a 
sign of mourning ; their bodies were nearly naked, and besmear- 
ed with red paint. This party consisted of the immediate rela- 
tives of the deceased ; and as they advanced they chanted a 
death-song, part of which ran as follows : 

" Rest, brothers, rest ! You will be avenged. The tears of 
your widows shall cease to flow, when they behold the blood of 
your murderers ; and your young children shall leap and sing 
with joy, on seeing their scalps. Rest, brothers, in peace ; we 
shall have blood." 

They took up their position in the centre ; and the whole party 
then formed themselves into an extended crescent. Among 
them were natives of the Chimnapum, Yackaman, Sokulk, and 
Wallah Wallah tribes. Their language is nearly the same ; but 
they are under separate chiefs, and in time of war always unite 
against the Shoshone or Snake Indians, a powerful nation, who 
inhabit the plains to the southward. 

From Chili to Athabasca, and from Nootka to the Labrador, 

k there is an indescribable coldness about an American savage that 
checks familiarity. He is a stranger to our hopes, our fears, our 



178 NEGOTIATIONS MR. KEITH'S ADDKESS. 

joys, or our sorrows : his eyes are seldom moistened by a tear, 
or his features relaxed by a smile ; and whether he basks beneath 
a vertical sun on the burning plains of Amazonia, or freezes in 
eternal winter on the ice-bound shores of the Arctic Ocean, the 
same piercing black eyes, and stern immobility of countenance, 
equally set at naught the skill of the physiognomist. 

On the present occasion, their painted skin, cut hair, and naked 
bodies, imparted to their appearance a degree of ferocity from 
which we boded no good result. They remained stationary for 
some time and preserved a profound silence. 

Messrs. Keith, Stewart, La Rocque, and the interpreter, at 
length advanced about midway between both parties unarmed, 
and demanded to speak with them ; upon which two chiefs, 
accompanied by six of the mourners, proceeded to join them. 
Mr. Keith offered them the calumet of peace, which they refused 
to accept, in a manner at once cold and repulsive. 

Michel was thereupon ordered to tell them that, as we had 
always been on good terms with them, we regretted much that 
the late unfortunate circumstance had occurred to disturb our 
friendly intercourse ; but that as we were anxious to restore 
harmony, and to forget what had passed, we were now willing 
to compensate the relations of the deceased for the loss they had 
sustained. 

They inquired what kind of compensation was intended ; and 
on being informed that it consisted of two suits of chief's clothes, 
with blankets, tobacco, and ornaments for the women, &c. it was 
indignantly refused ; and their spokesman stated that no discus- 
sion could be entered into until two white men (one of whom 
should be the big red-headed chief) were delivered to them to 
be sacrificed, according to their law, to the spirits of the departed 
warriors. 

Every eye turned on M'Donald, who, on hearing the demand, 
" grinned horribly a ghastly smile ;" and who, but for our inter- 
position, would on the spot have chastised the insolence of the 
speaker. The men were horrified, and " fear and trembling" 
became visible in their countenances, until Mr. Keith, who had 
observed these symptoms of terror, promptly restored their con- 
fidence, by telling them that such an ignominious demand should 
never be complied with. 

He then addressed the Indians in a calm, firm voice, and told 
them that no consideration whatever should induce him to deliver 
a white man to their vengeance ; that they had been the original 
aggressors, and in their unjustifiable attempt to seize by force 
our property, the deceased had lost their lives : that he was wil- 
ling to believe the attack was unpremeditated, and under 
that impression he had made the offer of compensation. He 



THREATENING INDICATIONS. 179 

assured them that he preferred their friendship to their enmity ; 
but that, if unfortunately they were not actuated by the same 
feelings, the while men would not, however deeply they might 
lament it, shrink from the contest. At the same time he reminded 
them of our superiority in arms and ammunition ; and that for 
every man belonging to our party who might fall, ten of their 
friends at least would suffer ; and concluded by requesting them 
calmly to weigh and consider all these matters, and to bear in 
recollection, that upon the result of their deliberation would in a 
great measure depend whether white men would remain in their 
country, or quit it for ever. 

The interpreter having repeated the above, a violent debate 
took place among the principal natives. One party advised the 
demand for the two white men to be withdrawn, and to ask in 
their place a greater quantity of goods and ammunition ; while 
the other, which was by far the most numerous, and to which all 
the relatives of the deceased belonged, opposed all compromise, 
unaccompanied by the delivery of the victims. 

The arguments and threats of the latter gradually thinned the 
ranks of the more moderate ; and Michel told Mr. Keith that he 
was afraid an accommodation was impossible. Orders were 
thereupon issued to prepare for action, and the men were told, 
when they received from Mr. Keith the signal, to be certain that 
each shot should tell. 

In the mean time a number of the natives had withdrawn some 
distance from the scene of deliberation, and from their fierce 
and threatening looks, joined to occasional whispers, we mo- 
mentarily expected they would commence an attack. 

A few of their speakers still lingered, anxious for peace ; but 
their feeble efforts were unavailing when opposed to the more 
powerful influence of the hostile party, who repeatedly called on 
them to retire, and allow the white men to proceed on their 
journey as well as they could. All but two chiefs and an elderly 
man, who had taken an active part in the debate, obeyed the 
call, and they remained for some time apparently undecided 
what course to adopt. 

From this group our eyes glanced to an extended line of the 
enemy who were forming behind them ; and from their motions 
it became evident that their intention was to outflank us. We 
therefore changed our position, and formed our men into single 
files, each man about three feet from his comrade. The friendly 
natives began to fall back slowly towards their companions, most 
of whom had already concealed themselves behind large stones, 
tufts of wormwood, and furze bushes, from which they could 
have taken a more deadly aim ; and Messrs. Keith and Stewart, 



180 FORTUNATE ARRIVAL — ELOQUENT ADDRESS. 

who had now abandoned all hopes of an amicable termination, 
called for their arms. 

An awful pause ensued, when our attention was arrested by 
the loud tramping of horses, and immediately after twelve 
mounted warriors dashed into the space between the two parlies, 
where they halted and dismounted. They were headed by a 
young chief, of fine figure, who instantly ran up to Mr. Keith, to 
whom he presented his hand in the most friendly manner, which 
example was followed by his companions. He then commanded 
our enemies to quit their places of concealment, and to appear 
before him. His orders were promptly obeyed ; and having 
made himself acquainted with the circumstances that led to the 
deaths of the two Indians, and our efforts towards effecting a 
reconciliation, he addressed them in a speech of considerable 
length, of which the following is a brief sketch : 

" Friends and relations ! Three snows have only passed over 
our heads since we were a poor miserable people. Our ene- 
mies, the Shoshones, during the summer, stole our horses, by 
which we were prevented trom hunting, and drove us from the 
banks of the river, so that we could not get fish. In winter, 
they burned our lodges by night ; they killed our relations ; they 
treated our wives and daughters like dogs, and left us either to 
die from cold or starvation, or become their slaves. 

" They were numerous and powerful ; we were few, and 
weak. Our hearts were as the hearts of little children: we 
could not fight like warriors, and were driven like deer about 
the plains. When the thunders rolled, and the rains poured, we 
had no spot in which we could seek a shelter ; no place, save 
the rocks, whereon we could lay our heads. Is such the case 
to-day ? No, my relations ! it is not. We have driven the 
Shoshones from our hunting-grounds, on which they dare not now 
appear, and have regained possession of the lands of our fathers, 
in which they and their fathers' fathers lie buried. We have 
horses and provisions in abundance, and can sleep unmolested 
with our wives and our children, without dreading the midnight 
attacks of our enemies. Our hearts are great within us, and we 
are note a nation ! 

" Who then, my friends,have produced this change ? The white 
men. In exchange for our horses and for our furs, they gave us 
guns and ammunition ; then we became strong ; we killed many 
of our enemies, and forced them to fiy from our lands. And are 
we to treat those who have been the cause of this happy change 
with ingratitude? Never! Never! The white people have 
never robbed us ; and, I ask, why should we attempt to rob 
them ? It was bad, very bad ! — and they were right in killing 
the robbers." Here symptoms of impatience and dissatisfac- 



ELOQUENT ADDRESS. 181 

tion became manifest among a group consisting chiefly of the 
relations of the deceased ; on observing which, he continued in 
a louder tone : " Yes ! I say they acted right in killing the rob- 
bers ; and who among you will dare to contradict me ? 

" You know well my father was killed by the enemy, when 
you all deserted him like cowards ; and, while the Great Master 
of Life spares me, no hostile foot shall again be set on our lands. 
I know you all ; and I know that those who are afraid of their 
bodies in battle are thieves when they are out of it ; but the 
warrior of the strong arm and the great heart will never rob a 
friend." After a short pause, he resumed : " My friends, the 
white men are brave and belong to a great nation. They are 
many moons crossing the great lake in coming from their own 
country to serve us. If you were foolish enough to attack them, 
they would kill a great many of you ; but suppose you should 
succeed in destroying all (hat are now present, what would be 
the consequence ? A greater number would come next year to 
revenge the death of their relations, and they would annihilate 
our tribe ; or should not that happen, their friends at home, on 
hearing of their deaths, would say we were a bad and a wicked 
people, and white men would never more come among us. We 
should then be reduced to our former state of misery and per- 
secution ; our ammunition would be quickly expended ; our 
guns would become useless, and we should again be driven from 
our lands, and the lands of our fathers, to wander like deer and 
wolves in the midst of the woods and plains. I therefore say 
the white men must not be injured ! They have offered you 
compensation for the loss of your friends : take it ; but, if 
you should refuse, I tell you to your faces that I will join them 
with my own band of warriors ; and should one white man fall 
by the arrow of an Indian, that Indian, if he were my brother, 
with all his family, shall become victims to my vengeance." 
Then, raising his voice, he called out, " Let the Wallah Wallahs, 
and all who love me, and are fond of the white men, come forth 
and smoke the pipe of peace !" Upwards of one hundred of 
our late adversaries obeyed the call, and separated themselves 
from their allies. The harangue of the youthful chieftain silenced 
all opposition. The above is but a faint outline of the argu- 
ments he made use of, for he spoke upwards of two hours ; 
and Michel confessed himself unable to translate a great por- 
tion of his language, particularly when he soared into the wild 
flights of metaphor, so common among Indians. His delivery 
was impassioned ; and his action, although sometimes violent, 
was generally bold, graceful, and energetic. Our admiration at 
the time knew no bounds ; and the orators of Greece or Rome, 



182 'MORNING STAR.' 

when compared with him, dwindled in our estimation into insig- 
nificance. 

Through this chief's mediation, the various claimants were in 
a short time fully satisfied, without the flaming scalp of our High- 
land hero ; after which a circle was formed by our people and 
the Indians indiscriminately : the white and red chiefs occupied 
the centre, and our return to friendship was ratified by each 
individual in rotation taking an amicable whiff from the peace- 
cementing calumet. 

The chieftain whose timely arrival had rescued us from im- 
pending destruction was called " Morning Star." His age did 
not exceed twenty-five years. His father had been a chief of great 
bravery and influence, and had been killed in battle by the Sho- 
shones a few years before. He was succeeded by Morning Star, 
who, notwithstanding his youth, had performed prodigies of 
valour. Nineteen scalps decorated the neck of his war horse, the 
ownersof which had been all killed in battle by himself to appease 
the spirit of his deceased father. He wished to increase the num- 
ber of his victims to twenty ; but the terror inspired by his name, 
joined to the superiority which his tribe derived by the use of 
fire-arms, prevented him from making up the desired comple- 
ment, by banishing the enemy from the banks of the Colum- 
bia.* 

His handsome features, eagle glance, noble bearing, and 
majestic person, stamped him one of Nature's own aristocracy ; 
while his bravery in the field, joined to his wisdom in their coun- 
cils, commanded alike the involuntary homage of the young, and 
the respect of the old. 

We gave the man who had been wounded in the shoulder a 
chief's coat ; and to the relations of the men who were killed 
we gave two coats, two blankets, two fathoms of cloth, two 
spears, forty bullets and powder, with a quantity of trinkets, 
and two small kettles for their widows. We also distributed 
nearly half a bale of tobacco among all present, and our youth- 
ful deliverer was presented by Mr. Keith with a handsome fowl- 
ing-piece, and some other valuable articles. 

Four men were then ordered to each canoe, and they pro- 
ceeded on with the poles ; while the remainder, with the passen- 
gers, followed by land. We were mixed pell-mell with the na- 
tives for several miles : the ground was covered with large 
stones, small willows, and prickly-pears ; and had they been 
inclined to break the solemn compact into which they had 
entered, they could have destroyed us with the utmost facility. 

* The Indians consider the attainment of twenty scalps as the summit of a 
warrior's glory . 



EXPEDITION SNOW STORMS. 183 

At dusk we bade farewell to the friendly chieftain and his 
companions, and crossed to the south side, where we encamped, 
a few miles above Lewis River, and spent the night in tran- 
quillity. 

It may be imagined by some that the part we acted in the 
foregoing transaction betrayed too great an anxiety for self- 
preservation ; but when it is recollected that we were several 
hundred miles from any assistance, with a deep and rapid river 
to ascend by the tedious and laborious process of poling, and 
that the desultory Cossack mode of fighting in use among the 
Indians, particularly the horsemen, would have cut us off in 
piece-meal ere we had advanced three days, it will be seen 
that, under the circumstances, we could not have acted other- 
wise. 

We reached Oakinagan without further interruption on the 
12th of December, at which place we remained a few days, to 
recruit the men, and prepare for the land journey with the 
horses. 



CHAPTER XVII. 



Author and party lost in a snow-storm — Curious instance of mental abstrac- 
tion — Poor Ponte — Arrive at Spokan House — A marriage — Great ravine — 
Agates — Hot-springs — Kitchen garden — Indian manner of hunting the 
deer — Method adopted by the wolves for the same purpose — Horce-racing 
— Great heat. 

On the 13th of December, the Spokan brigade, to which I 
was attached, took its departure from Oakinagan. The party 
consisted, besides, of Messrs. Stewart, M'Tavish, M'Millan, and 
Montour ; with twenty-one Canadians, and four Sandwich 
islanders. We had twenty-six loaded horses ; and in addition 
to our ordinary stock of provisions, we purchased forty dogs 
from the natives at Oakinagan, which were killed, after we had 
crossed the river, and foi med part of the loading. 

The cold was intense, and the ground covered with ten or 
twelve inches of snow. This necessarily impeded our progress, 
and prevented us from advancing more than twelve miles a day. 

On the 16th, which was the fourth day of our journey, it 
snowed incessantly. The line of march was long and straggling, 
and those in front were several miles in advance of the rear 
division, of which I had charge with M'Tavish. We had eight 
loaded horses, with four Canadians, and two Sandwish islanders. 

Towards evening a heavy storm arose from the north-east, 



184 BIVOUACK IN THE SNOW MENTAL ABSTRACTION. 

which, added to the desolation by which we were surrounded ; 
while the chilling monotony of the wide and extended plains 
was partially varied by immense masses of drifting snow, which, 
like the fitful vapour that so often enshrouds our northern moun- 
tains, occasionally concealed from our view the cheerless extent 
of the wintry horizon. On the approach of darkness the violence 
of the storm subsided ; but it was followed by one of those 
calm, clear, freezing nights so common in the interior of Ame- 
rica, and from the death-benumbing influence of which it is nearly 
impossible to avoid that sleep from which many an unfortunate 
wanderer never awakens. We were now completely bewil- 
dered ; all traces of the path had been destroyed by the drift ; 
the cold became every instant more painfully intense, and 

Horsemen and horse confessed the bitter pang. 

Three of the poor animals having at length given up, we were 
reluctantly obliged to stop and unload them ; and after searching 
in vain for wood to make a fire, we were compelled to make a 
large excavation in the snow, in which we resolved to pass the 
night. 

The horses which carried our provisions and blankets were 
ahead, and we fired several shots in the hope of obtaining relief, 
but without success. M'Tavish and I, however, fortunately 
obtained a blanket from one of the men, with which, and some 
of the saddle-cloths, we contrived to guard against the effects of 
the piercing cold during the night. 

We arose with the first dawn of morning, and prepared to 
renew our march ; but on mustering the horses we found one of 
them dead, and the two Sandwich islanders dreadfully frostbitten. 
To add to our distress, M'Tavish and I had omitted the wise 
precaution of placing our moccasins under our bodies (the 
warmth of which would have preserved them from being con- 
gealed), in consequence of which we found them, on awaken- 
ing, frozen as hard as clogs. All our endeavours to soften them 
by puffing, rubbing, &c. were unavailing, and we were ulti- 
mately obliged to have recourse to an extraordinary process, 
which produced the desired effect. After reloading, we re- 
sumed our march, which, owing to the depth and hardness of 
the snow, was painfully tedious. We had not advanced more 
than three miles, when I missed my fowling-piece ; and ima- 
gining that I had left it at the place where we had passed the 
night, I returned to look for it ; but on arriving at the spot I was 
much annoyed to find the object of my search lying across my 
arms ! To account for this instance of mental abstraction, it is 
necessary to remember the disagreeable situation in which I was 



PROVISIONS — POOR PONTO. 185 

placed ; — in charge of a party who had lost itself in a trackless 
wilderness of snow, and unable to discover any vestiges of its 
companions ; two of the number disabled from walking, and both 
men and horses almost exhausted from cold and want of nourish- 
ment ; in addition to which I had been accustomed for some 
days previously to carry my fowling-piece over the left shoulder, 
from which I suddenly missed the weight, and, without men- 
tioning the circumstance to any of the men, turned back on my 
fool's errand. 

Shortly after rejoining the party we came in view of a cluster 
of small trees, from the centre of which arose large volumes of 
friendly vapour. Here we found Messrs. Stewart and M'Millan, 
with the remainder of the brigade, comfortably seated round a 
cheering fire, partaking of a plentiful breakfast. We hastened 
to join them, and quickly despatched part of a hind quarter and 
a few ribs of roasted dog. 

Mr. Stewart had a beautiful English water-spaniel, called 
Ponto. After breakfast he asked M'Tavish how he liked his 
fare, to which the latter replied that he thought it was excellent. 
" And pray, my dear Alick," said Stewart, " do you know what 
you have just been eating V — " Not exactly," replied he, " I liked 
the meat so well that I never thought of asking its name ; but 
I suppose it is one of the wild sheep that I hear you have in 
these parts." — " No indeed," said Stewart : " finding ourselves 
short of provisions, we were obliged to kill Ponto, on part of 
which you have made so hearty a breakfast." — " Poor Ponto !" 
ejaculated the philosophical Highlander; "I am sorry for him, 
but it cannot now be helped." Ponto was a fine animal, full of 
vivacity, and had become a general favourite. I could not ac- 
count for his death, seeing there was no necessity to justify the 
murder of a civilized dog, while several of those which had 
been purchased at Oakinagan still remained untouched. On 
inquiring the reason, I was told that in consequence of his being 
in excellent condition, he was deemed a fit dish pour la table 
d'un bourgeois.* This was by no means satisfactory, as I ob- 
served at the men's messes several prime pieces of the native 
dogs, which I thought ought to have satisfied people more fas- 
tidious than we had a right to be on such an occasion : besides, 
I would have preferred picking the bones of the most maigre 
of the Indian breed, to the plumpest of our own faithful com- 
panions. Their keen eye, sharp nose, and pointed upright ear, 
proclaim their wolfish origin, and fail to enlist our sympathies 
in their behalf; in consequence of which our repugnance to eat 
them in periods of necessity is considerably diminished. 

» The Canadians call every proprietor un bourgeois. 



186 ADVERTISING FOR A WIFE PURIFICATIONS. 

We rested at this encampment the remainder of the day to 
refresh the horses, and in the evening I was highly delighted at 
again seeing the animated figure of poor Ponto as lively and 
playful as ever. He had not been injured, and the melancholy 
story of his death, &c. was a pure invention of the " old one's" 
to work on our juvenile sympathies. 

From hence to Spokan we had a tedious and miserable 
march of seven days in deep snow, in the course of which we 
lost five horses ; and of those which survived the journey, sev- 
eral perished during the winter. 

I remained at Spokan in company with Messrs. Stewart and 
M'Tavish, and passed rather an agreeable winter. The deer 
were not so numerous as in former seasons, and we chiefly 
subsisted on horses. Towards the latter end of January carp 
became plentiful in Spokan river, and about a month later the 
trout-fishing commenced. We took large quantities of both, 
which afforded us excellent amusement ; and from that period 
until late in the spring, we generally breakfasted on fish and 
dined on horse. 

In the course of the winter an incident occurred which threat- 
ened at the time to interrupt the harmony that had previously 
existed between our people and the Spokan Indians. One of 
our younger clerks, having become tired of celibacy, resolved 
to take a wife ; and as none of the Columbian half-breeds had 
attained a sufficiently mature age, he was necessitated to make 
his selection from the Spokan tribe. He therefore requested 
the interpreter to make an inquiry in the village, and ascertain 
whether any unappropriated comely young woman was willing 
to become the partner of a juvenile chief. A pretty-looking 
damsel, about seventeen years of age, immediately became a 
candidate for the prize. As her father had died some years 
before, she was under the guardianship of her mother, who, 
with her brother, settled the terms of the negotiation. Blankets 
and kettles were presented to her principal relations, while 
beads, hawk-bells, &c. were distributed among the remaining 
kindred. About nine o'clock at night the bride was conducted 
to the fort gate by her mother, and after an apathetic parting, 
she was consigned to the care of one of the men's wives, called 
" the scourer," conversant in such affairs, who had her head and 
body thoroughly cleansed from all the Indian paint and grease 
with which they had been saturated. After this purification she 
was handed over to the dressmaker, who instantly discharged her 
leathern chemise, and supplied its place by more appropriate 
clothing ; and the following morning, when she appeared in her 
new habiliments, we thought her one of the most engaging 
females that we had previously seen of the Spokan nation. 



INDIAN HARANGUE. 187 

Matters rolled on pleasantly enough for a few days, and the 
youthful couple appeared mutually enamoured of each other ; 
but a " little week" had scarcely passed over their heads when, 
one day about two o'clock, a number of young warriors well 
mounted galloped into the court-yard of the fort, armed at all 
points. Their appearance was so unusual, and unlike the gen- 
eral manner of the Spokan nation, that we were at a loss to 
account for it, and vague suspicions of treachery began to flit 
across our imaginations ; but the mystery was shortly cleared up. 
The bride, on perceiving the foremost horseman of the band 
enter the court, instantly fled into an adjoining store, in which 
she concealed herself; while he and his associates dismounted, 
and demanded to speak with the principal white chief, at the 
same time requesting the other chiefs would also appear. His 
wishes having been complied with, he addressed us in substance 
to the following effect : " Three snows have passed away since 
the white men came from their own country to live among the 
Spokans. When the Evil Spirit thought proper to distress the 
white people by covering the waters of the rivers with ice, so 
that they could not catch any fish, and sent snow all over the 
mountains and the plains, by means whereof their horses were 
nearly destroyed by the wolves, — when their own hunters in 
fact could not find an animal, did the Spokans take advantage 
of their afflictions 1 Did they rob them of their horses like 
Sinapoil dogs "? Did they say, The white men are now poor 
and starving ; they are a great distance from their own country 
and from any assistance, and we can easily take all their goods 
from them, and send them away naked and hungry ? No ! we 
never spoke or even thought of such bad things. The white men 
came among us with confidence, and our hearts were glad to see 
them ; they paid us for our fish, for our meat, and for our furs. 
We thought they were all good people, and in particular their 
chiefs ; but I find we were wrong in so thinking." Here he 
paused for a short period ; after which he thus recommenced : 
" My relations and myself left our village some days ago for the 
purpose of hunting. We returned home this morning. Their 
wives and their children leaped with joy to meet them, and all 
their hearts were glad but mine. I went to my hut and called 
on my wife to come forth ; but she did not appear. I was sor- 
rowful and hungry, and went into my brother's hut, where I 
was told that she had gone away, and had become the wife of 
a white chief. She is now in your house. I come, therefore, 
white men, to demand justice. I first require that my wife be 
delivered up to me. She has acted like a dog, and I shall live 
no more with her ; but I shall punish her as she deserves. And 
in the next place I expect, as you have been the cause of my 



188 A WIFE'S VALUE — RECOGNITION. 

losing her, that you will give ample compensation for her loss." 
Our interpreter immediately explained to the Indian that the 
girl's relatives were the cause of the trick that had been played 
on him, and added, that had our friend been aware of her 
having been a married woman, he never would have thought of 
making her his wife. That he was willing to give him reason- 
able compensation for her loss ; but that she should not be de- 
livered to him except he undertook not to injure her. He re- 
fused to make any promise, and still insisted on her restitution ; 
but as we had reason to fear that her life would have been sacri- 
ficed, we refused to comply. The old chief next addressed him 
for some time, the result of which was, that he agreed to accept 
of a gun, one hundred rounds of ammunition, three blankets, 
two kettles, a spear, a dagger, ten fathoms of tobacco, with a 
quantity of smaller articles, and to leave his frail helpmate in 
quiet possession of her pale-faced spouse, promising never more 
to think of her, or do her any harm. Exorbitant as these terms 
were, it was judged advisable to accede to them rather than 
disturb the good feeling that had hitherto subsisted between us. 
After we had delivered the above articles to him, we all smoked 
the calumet ; on perceiving which the fugitive, knowing that it 
was the ratification of peace, emerged from her place of con- 
cealment, and boldly walked past her late lord. She caught his 
eye for a moment, but no sign of recognition appeared, and 
neither anger nor regret seemed to disturb the natural serenity 
of his cold and swarthy countenance. 

Shortly after the arrival of the parties from the Cootonais 
and Flat-heads, we took our departure for the sea ; and having 
joined the gentlemen at Oakinagan, we proceeded together, and 
arrived without accident on the 3d of April at Fort George. 
Here we found a handsome brig belonging to the Company, 
which had arrived some time before, well loaded with articles 
necessary both for the interior and coasting trade. 

We remained only a fortnight at the fort, which we again left 
on the 16th of April for the interior. We saw few Indians on 
the Columbia until we reached the Wallah Wallah river, at 
which we stopped half a day to purchase horses. We recog- 
nised several of the party who had attacked us the preceding 
autumn, particularly the relatives of the Indians who had been 
killed, and who were easily distinguished by their short cropped 
hair. They came however among us unarmed, and all recollec- 
tion of that unpleasant affair seemed to have vanished from their 
memories. 

About forty miles above Lewis River, Messrs. Stewart, 
M'Millan, and I, with three men, quitted the canoes to proceed 
overland to Spokan House. During this journey, which occu- 



RAVINE — HOT SPRINGS — HORTICULTURE. 189 

pied five or six days, we did not meet a single native ; and with 
the exception of a few stunted red cedar-trees, and some juniper 
birch and willow, the country was divested of wood. Early on 
the morning of the second day we entered a remarkable ravine, 
with high, bold, and rocky sides, through which we rode upwards 
of twenty miles, when we were obliged to leave it in order to 
follow our direct course. The soil in this ravine is a fine whit- 
ish-coloured clay, firm and hard. There is but little vegetation, 
except on the sides, where clusters of willow and choke-cherry 
are occasionally met with. While we rode through it we passed 
several small lakes, round the shores of which I picked up some 
very fine pebbles of the agate species, extremely hard, and pos- 
sessing great delicacy and variety of shading. The banks of 
the Columbia, from the falls up to Lewis River, abound with 
pebbles of the same description ; some of which I brought 
home, and had cut. They take a beautiful polish, and in the 
opinion of lapidaries far exceed the cornelian in value. 

It is a curious circumstance that we observed no rattlesnakes 
in this valley ; and we subsequently learned from the Indians 
that they never saw any ; although those reptiles are very 
numerous in the plains on each side. The natives were unable 
to assign any cause for this ; and, except it be in the peculiarity 
of the soil, we were equally at a loss to account for it. 

The following day we passed two warm springs, one of which 
was so hot, that in a short time water in a saucepan might be 
easily boiled over it. They were both highly sulphuric ; but we 
had not time, nor indeed were we prepared to analyze their 
properties. The soil in their immediate vicinity was firm white 
clay, and the grass quite brown. 

On leaving the canoes we expected to have reached Spokan 
on the third day ; but in consequence of having no guide, joined 
to the difficulty of finding water, we took double the time on 
which we had calculated. Our provisions had failed, and we 
were about killing one of our jaded horses, when we came in 
sight of a few lean deer, two of which we shot. This supply 
brought us to Spokan House, which place we reached on the 
12th of May. The party with the trading goods arrived a few 
days after from Oakinagan. 

I passed the summer at Spokan with the gentlemen already 
mentioned, in addition to Messrs. Mackenzie and Montour, in as 
agreeable a manner as men possibly could in such a country. 
Our kitchen-garden now began to assume a thriving appearance, 
and, in addition to a fine crop of potatoes, we reared a quantity of 
other excellent esculents. The soil was deep and rich ; and a few 
melons and cucumbers which we had put down throve admirably. 
The Indians, who at first would not touch any thing which we 



190 DANGEROUS RAVINE — DEER. 

planted, began at length to have such a relish for the produce of 
the garden, that we were obliged to have sentinels on the watch 
to prevent their continual trespasses. We offered some of them 
potatoes to plant, and pointed out the good effects that would 
result from their cultivation ; but they were too thoughtless and 
improvident to follow our advice. We strongly impressed on 
their minds that if the system was generally adopted it would 
prevent the recurrence of famine, to which they were subject ; 
but to this they replied, that it would interfere with their hunting 
and fishing, and prevent their women from collecting their own 
country fruits and roots in autumn, and thereby render them 
lazy. All our arguments were unavailing, and we were obliged 
to allow them to continue in their own course. 

During the summer we made several excursions of from one 
to three weeks' duration to the neighbouring friendly tribes, for 
the purpose of obtaining a more accurate knowledge of their re- 
spective lands. Of the information thus obtained I shall have 
to speak hereafter. In some of these journeys we had to cross 
the great ravine already mentioned. It is computed to be about 
eighty miles in length, and presents all along the same rocky and 
precipitous sides. The pathways are so steep and dangerous, 
that even Indians in passing them are obliged to dismount, and 
loaded horses must be partly lightened. Some of the horses 
by missing their footing have been killed, and many severely 
injured, in descending these precipices. The bottom throughout 
consists of the same firm white soil, interspersed with small 
lakes. Several bold insulated rocks are scattered here and there 
throughout the ravine, some of which exceed a quarter of a 
mile in circumference, and are partially clothed with choke- 
cherry and other inferior kinds of vegetation. 

From small horizontal channels worn on the sides of the 
rocks, and which seemed to indicate the action of water, we 
were led to imagine that this valley was formerly one of the 
channels of the Columbia, the course of which we supposed 
must have been changed by one of those extraordinary convul- 
sions in the natural world, the causes of which are beyond 
human knowledge. 

In the great plains between Oakinaganand Spokan there are 
at particular seasons numbers of small deer. The editor of 
Lewis and Clarke classes them as antelopes ; but how much so- 
ever they may resemble those animals in swiftness and shape, 
their horns, as described by naturalists, are totally different. 
Their flesh is sweet and delicate, and they generally go in small 
herds. Towards the latter end of the summer they are in prime 
condition, and at that season we had some excellent sport in 
hunting them. The Indians, however, are not satisfied with our 



WOLVES SUMMER AMUSEMENT. 191 

method of taking them in detail. On ascertaining the direction 
the deer have chosen, part of their hunters take a circuit in 
order to arrive in front of the herd, while those behind set fire to 
the long grass, the flames of which spread with great rapidity. 
In their flight from the devouring element they are intercepted by 
the hunters, and, while they hesitate between these dangers, 
great numbers fall by the arrows of the Indians. 

The wolves almost rival the Indians in their manner of at- 
tacking the deer. When impelled by hunger, they proceed in 
a band to the plains in quest of food. Having traced the direc- 
tion which a herd have taken, they form themselves into a horse- 
shoe line, the extreme points of which they keep open on the 
grand ravine. After some cautious manoeuvring they succeed 
in turning the progress of the deer in that direction. This ob- 
ject effected, they begin to concentrate their ranks, and ulti- 
mately hem in their victims in such a manner as to leave them 
no choice but that of being dashed to pieces down the steep and 
rocky sides of the ravine, or falling a prey to the fangs of their 
merciless pursuers. 

During this summer we had also some good horse-racing in 
the plains between the Pointed-Heart and Spokan lands. In 
addition to the horses belonging to those tribes, we had a few 
from the Flat-heads, and several from the Chaudiere Indians. 
There were some capital heats, and betting ran high. The 
horses were ridden by their respective owners, and I have some- 
times seen upwards of thirty running a five-mile heat. The 
course was a perfect plain, with a light gravelly bottom, and 
some of the rearward jockeys were occasionally severely pep- 
pered in the face from the small pepples thrown up by the hoofs 
of the racers in front. 

Thus passed the summer of 1815, decidedly the most pleas- 
ant and agreeable season I enjoyed in the Indian country. 
Hunting, fishing, fowling, horse-racing, and fruit-gathering, 
occupied the day; while reading, music, backgammon, &c. formed 
the evening pleasures of our small but friendly mess. The heat 
was intense during this summer. The thermometer averaged 
from 84° to 96°, and on one occasion, the 5th of July, on which 
day we had a horse-race, it rose to 111 in the shade. The 
heat was however generally moderated by cooling breezes; 
otherwise it would have been quite insupportable. 

Towards the latter end of August, and during the month of 
September, about noon, the thermometer generally stood at 
86°, while in the mornings and evenings it fell to 35°, or 36°. 



192 DEPARTURE-— LETTER FROM MR. STEWART. 



CHAPTER XVIII. 

Letter from Mr. Stewart — His account of New Caledonia — Navigation of the 
Columbia obstructed by ice — Miserable situation of the party during the 
winter — Author frostbitten — Amusements — Departure of Mr. Keith — Hie 
letters — Author and party quit their winter encampment — Rapid change of 
seasons — Arrive at Fort George. 

Mr. Alexander Stewart with his family left us early in 
September to take charge of Lesser Slave Lake, an important 
department on the east side of the mountains, at which place it 
had been arranged he was to pass the winter. He expected to 
have met Mr. Keith at the portage of the Rocky Mountains, on his 
way to the Columbia with despatches from Fort William ; but a 
month elapsed before the arrival of that gentleman, during which 
period himself and family suffered great privations from want 
of food, &c. 

The distracted state of the interior, owing to the disputes be- 
tween the North- West and Hudson's-Bay Companies, added to 
other unexpected circumstances, impeded the progress of Mr. 
Keith, who did not reach the portage until the 15th of October. 
He parted from Mr. Stewart on the following day, and reached 
the Chaudiere falls on the 22d, where he left his canoes, and 
arrived at Spokan House on the 24th, having previously ordered 
the men to drop down to the mouth of the Spokan river, at 
which place we were to join them. Among others, I received 
a letter by him from my friend Mr. John Stewart, dated New 
Caledonia,* 25th April, 1815, from which the following is an 
extract : 

" I find that the affairs of the Columbia appear to be getting 
from bad to worse ; and the many difficulties and hardships, 
added to the dangers peculiar to that unfortunate department, are 
hard to bear, and will keep me particularly anxious until I hear 
the result of the expedition of this spring to and from Fort 
George. Although the various encounters you have had with 
the natives should have taught them to respect the whites, and 
convince them that nothing is to be gained by force ; yet as the 
attack of last autumnf was both daring and premeditated, I am 

* This district is very extensive, and lies on the west side of the Rocky 
Mountains. — It communicates with Athabasca department by Peace River, 
and extends from lat. 52° to 55° North. 

+ Alluding to the attack at the Wallah Wallah river, the particulars of 
which are already detailed. 



LETTER FROM MR. STEWART. 193 

afraid it is but the forerunner of greater aggression. You will, 
however, have ene great advantage in the spring, which is, that 
if the natives be at that season numerous along the communi- 
cation, it must be with a hostile design, and perhaps by begin- 
ning the assault yourselves, you will be enabled to counteract its 
effects. Plausible, however, as this may appear in theory, it 
might probably have a very different effect in practice. 1 shall 
therefore leave off my advice, lest you might say to me what Han- 
nibal did to the pedant. Although 1 deeply regret my absence from 
my friends on the Columbia, 1 have no cause to complain of my 
lot; for here, if not perfectly quiet, we are at least hors de danger. 
Messrs. M'Dougal and Harman arc with me in the department. 
They are not only excellent traders, but (what js a greater nov- 
elty in this country) real Christians, and I sincerely wish that 
their steady and pious example was followed by others. We 
are at separate posts ; but as we feel great delight in each other's 
company, we visit as often as the situation of the country and 
our business will permit ; and in their conversation, which is 
always rational and instructive, I enjoy some of the most agree- 
able moments of my life. 

" The salmon failed with us last season. This generally occurs 
every second year, and completely so every fourth year, at which 
periods the natives starve in every direction. 

" They are of a lazy, indolent disposition, and, as a livelihood 
is rather easily procured, seldom give themselves much trouble 
in hunting the beaver or any animal of the fur kind. 

" We have no buffalo or deer, except the cariboux (reindeer) ; 
and not many even of those ; so that, properly speaking, we 
may say that water alone supplies the people of New Caledonia 
with food. 

" The natives are numerous, and live stationary in villages of 
the same description as those on the lower part of the Columbia. 
In their looks and manner they bear a great affinity to the Chi- 
nooks. The meaning of their national name is " Carriers ;" but 
the people of each village have a separate denomination. In a 
north-eastern direction their country nearly borders the Colum- 
bia ; but no white man knows how far it extends towards the 
north-west. Their language little varies from that spoken on the 
seacoast. The Carriers are naturally of an open and hospita- 
ble disposition ; but very violent, and subject to sudden gusts of 
passion, in which much blood is often shed. However, those 
quarrels are soon made up, and as soon forgotten. 

" They seldom, even in the most favourable seasons, kill many 
beaver in winter, the depth of the snow being, as they allege, 
too great. The utmost we can therefore do is to collect the 
produce of their summer hunt ; which, as we have to go in dif- 

A a 



194 DEPARTURE — FLOATING ICE. 

ferent and distant directions, is a work of much labour, and takes 
up a great portion of our men's time. We have no cause to 
complain of last year's trade ; and, to finish my letter like a true 
North-wester, I have great pleasure in acquainting you that our 
returns are about ninety-five packs,* which is a sufficient proof 
that the country is worth being attended to, and that it is sus- 
ceptible of great improvement." 

We left Spokan House on the 26th of October, and having 
joined the canoes, proceeded to Fort George, at which place we 
arrived on the 8th of November. 

Owing to the advanced season of the year, we hastened our 
departure for the interior, and accordingly succeeded in quitting 
the fort on the 19th of November. Our party upwards consisted 
of Messrs. Keith, Montour, Mackenzie, and myself, with fifty 
voi/agcurs, and Rivet the interpreter. Not being accustomed to 
travel at such a late period, we found the weather rather cool 
for the first few days. Owing to the absence of the Indians, 
few of whom were on the banks of the Columbia, we were 
deprived of our ordinary supply of horses and dogs for the 
kettle, and were forced to have recourse to our winter stock of 
flour, pork, and rice. 

After passing the second falls the cold became more severe ; 
and occasional pieces of ice drifting down the current, made us 
fear that our progress would be considerably obstructed in pro- 
portion as we advanced. Our apprehensions were unfortunately 
realized. As far as the entrance of Lewis river the navigation 
was tolerably free ; but from thence the masses of floating ice 
became so large and numerous, that our frail little barks were in 
momentary danger of being stove to pieces, and it required all 
the skill and labour of our men to avoid them, and prevent the 
fatal consequences that would have inevitably followed such col- 
lisions. When it is recollected that we had to stem a strong 
current in vessels built, some of thin cedar plank, and others of 
the bark of the birch-tree, and all heavily laden, it may naturally 
be supposed that our fears were not groundless. 

For three days our advance was slow through this dangerous 
navigation ; but early on the fourth a scene presented itself which 
seemed likely to put a final stop to our progress. Some large 
masses of ice in their descent got entangled among the numerous 
rocks of a long and crooked rapid ; these were quickly followed 
by others, until the whole presented at the time of our arrival a 
line about a quarter of a mile in extent, of high, sharp, and fan- 
tastically shaped glaciers. Our men immediately commenced 

* Each pack weighs ninety pounds, and contains on an average from fifty to 
sixty boaver-ekins. 



EXHAUSTION SPEECH OP BAZIL LUCIE. 195 

the portage with the greatest good-humour, and finished it late 
in the evening, when we were obliged to encamp in the dark, 
with scarcely wood sufficient to cook our cheerless supper. The 
current on the following day was partially free from ice, and we 
began to hope that we had passed the worst, until we arrived at 
a particular bend of the river, at which there was another rapid, 
choked up with a similar chain of glaciers, but of greater magni- 
tude. The men, who had endured excessive hardships, still did 
not grumble, and began the portage in high spirits. We had 
not advanced more than half over it when the approach of dark- 
ness, joined to an unexpected supply of drift-wood, induced us 
to stop for the night, which we passed in tolerable comfort. We 
finished the portage the following morning before breakfast ; and 
the remainder of the day was h;ird labour, between rapids and 
drifting ice. We encamped late at the foot of a long rapid. 
The men were greatly fatigued, and some of them knocked up. 
Early the next morning, after each man got a refreshing glass of 
rum, they commenced their work, and finished the portage at 
noon. About two miles above this we were again obliged to 
unload, and carry the goods and canoes upwards of nine hun- 
dred yards. 

The exhaustion of the men this evening was extreme, and it 
became quite apparent that they could not much longer endure 
a continuance of such dreadful hardships. 

We had previously ascertained that the river was frozen a 
considerable distance, and during a walk of three miles, which I 
took with Mr. Keith, it was one firm thick body of ice. 

We breakfasted on the following morning at our encampment ; 
shortly after which a body of the men approached the tent, and 
sent in word that they wished to speak to Mr. Keith. He came 
out, when their spokesman, Bazil Lucie, one of the best and most 
obedient men in the brigade, begged leave in a respectful man- 
ner to address a few words to him on their present situation. 
He stated that he and his comrades were reduced to the lowest 
degree of weakness from the excessive and unexpected labour 
they had undergone ; that while there was the least possibility of 
reaching their destination they did not repine; but from the con- 
tinued mass of ice and chains of rapids before them, that object 
was at present unattainable. He hoped Mr. Keith would not 
consider their conduct in a mutinous point of view. They were 
ready and willing to attempt all that men could achieve, with 
even the slightest prospect of success ; but worn down as they 
were, they felt themselves quite inadequate to make any further 
efforts towards extricating us from our disagreeable situation. 

Mr. Keith glanced at the group, in whose features he read a 
coincidence of sentiment with their speaker, joined to a deter- 



196 REPLY — SCARCITY OF PROVISIONS — MOUNT NELSON. 

mination of manner which, though humble and respectful, still 
evidently showed that their resolution was fixed, and was the 
result of previous deliberation. 

The principles of passive obedience and nonresistance in 
which the Canadian voyageurs are brought up, appeared to be 
endangered by this combination ; and the idea that his men were 
the first that ever dared, in the Indian country, even to remon- 
strate, gave a temporary shock to his pride ; it was, however, 
transient. Justice and reason triumphed, and dissipated in a 
moment the slight symptoms of wounded dignity that at first 
ruffled his countenance. 

Mr. Keith told them that he had no wish to force them to any 
labour incompatible with their strength ; that his only object was 
if possible to get to their destinations, which at present he 
admitted could not be done ; that he did not find fault with them 
for the expression of their sentiments, and regretted that they 
had not all a more comfortable wintering ground. 

Lucie, after a short consultation with the men, replied that 
they all felt particularly grateful for the kind and considerate 
manner he had received their appeal, and promised that no exer- 
tions on their part should be wanting to contribute to the comfort 
of himself and the other gentlemen. 

There was fortunately about the encampment plenty of drift- 
wood, of which, in a short time they collected an immense quan- 
tity. The trading goods were piled up in a safe situation ; and 
with the assistance of the canoes, tarpaulins, and sails, the men 
constructed tolerably -good cots for themselves. 

We had a large tarpaulin porch erected in front of our tent, 
to which it was joined. In this porch we sat to enjoy the fire, 
the sparks from which we feared would have injured the canvass 
of our cold habitation. Our situation was disagreeably novel. 
About three hundred miles from our nearest post, with no means 
of approaching it, and no provisions save the scanty supply we 
had brought for consumption on our journey, and the usual 
quantities of rice and flour for our winter holydays. We had 
seen no Indians for several days, and our hopes of succour from 
them were consequently very weak. Our hunters were also 
unsuccessful, and reported that the surrounding country was 
devoid of any animals that could be made subservient to our 
support. Neither did they in their different trips see any vesti- 
ges of the natives ; and most of the poor fellows returned from 
their cold and hungry journeys with frost-bitten fingers and toes. 

About ten miles from our encampment, in the midst of the 
extensive plains on the north side, there is a high and conically- 
shaped hill, which has been honoured with the name of Mount 
Nelson, to which Mr. Keith and I determined to proceed, for 



AUTIIOR FROST-BITTEN — TRAVELLING LIBRARY. 197 

the purpose of surveying the surrounding country. The ground 
was covered with congealed snow, and after an arduous walk 
we reached the summit of the solitary mountain. We had a 
widely-extended prospect of the great plains in their wintry 
clothing : their undulations reminded us of the ocean, when the 
troubled waves begin to subside after a storm ; while the occa- 
sional appearance of leafless trees in the distance, partially diver- 
sifying the chilling scene, resembled the shattered masts of ves- 
sels that had sutfered in the conflict of waters. 

In vain did we strain our eyes to catch a glimpse of any thing 
in human or animal shape. Neither man, nor fowl, nor cattle, 
nor beasts, nor creeping thing, met our longing and expectant 
gaze. Animated nature seemed to have abandoned the dreary 
solitude, and silent desolation reigned all around. 

We reached the encampment late in the evening, shortly after 
which I felt an unusual pain under the ball of one of my great 
toes. On examination, I ascertained that during our late walk a 
hole had been worn in the sole of my moccasin, which caused 
the toe to be frost-bitten. By the advice of our experienced 
Canadians I had it immediately rubbed with snow, keeping it, at 
the same time, some distance from the fire. The operation was 
painful ; but it preserved the joint. After a few days' rubbing 
the skin became white, and ultimately peeled oft' like that of a 
whitlow when it begins to heal. This was succeeded by a new 
covering, which in a short time became as strong as formerly. 

A few years before, one of the clerks, named Campbell, while 
out with a hunting party, met with a similar accident. He was 
a novice in the country, and contrary to the advice of his men, 
kept the frozen part at the fire, and refused to rub it with snow. 
The consequence was a mortification, which in a few days 
proved fatal ; for at the place where the circumstance occurred 
he was between 2000 and 3000 miles from medical assistance. 

This was the only time, during my residence in America, that 
I got nipped by the frost ; indeed the inhabitants of our islands 
in general bear cold better than the Canadians, several of whom 
belonging to our party, although they were more warmly clothed, 
suffered severely in their extremities. 

Were it not for the plentiful supply of fuel, our situation 
would have been insupportably miserable in this wretched 
encampment. As it was, our time passed heavily enough. Our 
travelling library was on too small a scale to afford much intel- 
lectual enjoyment. It only consisted of one book of hymns, 
two song-books, the latest edition of Joe Miller, and Darwin's 
Botanic Garden. The Canadians could not join us in the hymns, 
and we endeavoured in vain to tune our pipes for profane har- 
mony. " Yankey Doodle," the " Frog's Courtship," and the 



198 AMUSEMENTS RECOLLECTIONS OF CHRISTMAS. 

** Poker," were the only three that came within the scope of our 
vocal abilities. In fine weather our friend Mackenzie attempted 
with tolerable success the simple ditty of 

The devil flew away with the little tailor 
And the broad-cloth under his arm. 

Our constant perusal of old Joe made us so intimately 
acquainted with all his super-excellent good things, that we 
unconsciously became punsters, and were noted for many a day 
thereafter as the greatest men in the country for choice hits and 
double-entendres. 

As for Darwin, we were almost tempted to commit him to 
the flames : for to read of the loves of the plants, when we knew 
they were all buried in their cold, cold grave, and waiting like 
ourselves for the renovating influence of spring, only gave addi- 
tional torment to our situation. 

In the intervals between harmony, joking, and botany, as we 
sat striving to warm ourselves under the tarpaulin porch, half 
blinded by the puffs of smoke sent in by cold easterly gusts, we 
endeavoured to amuse each other by a detail of each schoolboy 
adventure, each juvenile anecdote, and each 

Moving accident by flood or field, 

that had ever befallen us. But on the arrival of dear delightful 
Christmas, — that happy season of festivity, when the poor man's 
table displays the accumulated savings of an economical advent, 
and the rich man's groans under more than its accustomed pro- 
fusion ; when emancipation from the birch expands the youthful 
heart into joy and gladness, and the partially-forgotten friend- 
ships of the old are renewed with greater fervency ; when all 
denominations of Christians combine social pleasure with inno- 
cent amusement, and join in praise and thanksgiving to Him 
who came to save us ; — our thoughts wandered towards home, 
and the happy faces surrounding the quiet and domestic hearth : 
the contrast was too strong for our philosophy, and we were 
almost tempted to call down inverted benedictions on the unfor- 
tunate beaver, and those who first invented beaver hats, beaver 
bonnets, and beaver cloaks ! From that moment I began to 
balance between the comparatively pleasing uncertainties of 
civilized life, and the sad realities to which the life of an Indian 
trader is exposed. On the one side I placed — exile, starvation, 
Indian treachery, piercing colds, or burning heats, with the damp 
earth too often for a bed ; no society for a great portion of the 
year, except stupid Canadian voyageurs, or selfish, suspicioui 



mr. keith's departure — argument on cookery. 199 

natives : ideas semi-barbarized by a long estrangement from the 
civilized world ; and should I even survive these accumulated 
evils, and amass a few thousands, to find, on returning to my 
native country, the friends of my youth dead, and myself for- 
gotten ; with a broken-down and debilitated constitution ; an 
Indian wife and a numerous offspring, whose maternal tint, 
among the proud and the unthinking, too often subjects them to 
impertinent insult and unmerited obloquy. 

To a British reader it would be useless to enumerate the 
opposing items, or to mention on which side the scale preponde- 
rated : it is enough to say that I determined on the earliest oppor- 
tunity to exchange dog for mutton, and horse for beef; icy 
winters and burning summers for our own more temperate cli- 
mate ; and copper beauties for fair ones. 

1816. 

A few men who had been despatched on foot to Oakinagan 
succeeded in reaching that place, and returned early in January 
with sixteen horses, so wretchedly lean that they were quite 
unfit for the kettle, and almost unserviceable for any purpose. 
However, after a few days' rest, Mr. Keith selected eight of the 
strongest, which he loaded ; and with which, accompanied with 
Mr. Montour and a party of the men, he set off for Oakinagan. 
They took the greater portion of the portable vivres with them. 

Mr. Keith's departure was a sensible loss to our little society. 
Gifted by nature with faculties of no ordinary description, he 
had the advantages of an early and excellent education, which 
he subsequently improved by an extensive course of reading. 
He also possessed a sound, vigorous understanding, with a strong 
memory ; and had not fortune cast him among the wilds of 
savage America, I have no doubt he would have attained emi- 
nence in any profession he might have chosen in his native 
country. 

Mackenzie and I passed six more melancholy weeks in this 
spot, during which period we did not see an Indian. Our time 
would have passed heavily enough, only that we fortunately 
agreed on no single subject. Episcopacy and Presbyterianism, 
with all their offshoots, formed a prolific source of polemic 
recreation ; and when we became tired of the mitre and the 
kirk, we travelled back to Ossian and the Culdees. We argued 
on the immutability of the Magellanic clouds. We discussed 
the respective merits of every writer to whom the authorship 
of Junius has been attributed. We differed on the best mode 
of cooking a leg of mutton; and could not agree as to the supe- 
riority of a haggis over a harico, or of Ferintosh overlnishowen. 
Plum-pudding and rice each had its champion ; and when he 



200 LETTER FROM MR. KEITH. 

rose in all his strength and thought to destroy me with the plen- 
tiful variety of a Scotch breakfast, I at once floored him with 
the solid substantiality of an English dinner. Thus with empty 
stomachs and half-famished bodies we argued on luxuries while 
we anticipated starvation ; and we often awoke from the pleas- 
ing dream of a fat " sirloin," to attack the melancholy ribs of a 
fleshless horse.* 

Mr. Keith reached Oakinagan on the 28th January, and on 
the following day addressed me a letter, an extract from which 
may not be uninteresting to the reader. 

" The loaded horses performed the journey hither in about 
the time we had anticipated, having arrived here without any 
material accident (except drowning Guenillori) yesterday. As 
for myself, having left them on the 26th, accompanied by Fran- 
cois, with the intention of reaching the fort that day, I accom- 
plished my object at the expense of your Poil de Souris and my 
Blond. The latter gave up about three miles from the end of his 
journey, and yours brought me on slowly. Having once gone 
ahead, I had no alternative but to push on, bon gre mal gre, or 
encamp without blanket or supper : which circumstance I hope 
you will receive as a sufficient excuse for the rough treatment I 
gave your horse. Grosses Pattes had the honour of carrying 
my saddle-bags for two days and a half, both as a punishment 
for his laziness, and as a relief to hard-working horses. Our busi- 
ness here has been considerably retarded in consequence of our 
having given a regal to the men in lieu of the New- Year's festivi- 
ties, which you know were douloureusement triste. The party 
for Thompson's river took their departure the day before yes- 
terday ; and owing to some delay about procuring Indian canoes, 
the Spokan people only crossed the river to-day. I have settled 
with Mr. Ross to send you four additional horses for consump- 
tion, in charge of two men, who will leave this on the 1st prox- 
imo. The weather here has been latterly very mild, which, 
coupled with other circumstances, induces me to think that you 
have been enabled to quit your encampment." 

Mr. Keith was however mistaken as to his hopes of a favour- 
able change in the navigation. Another letter, dated " Spokan 
House, February 10th," says — " After a very unpleasant and 
irksome journey, occasioned by bad roads and the low and 
exhausted state of our horses, I arrived here on the 8th, and the 
loaded horses yesterday. We left several of the poor animals 
on the way. Le Gris le Galeaux I left in charge of a middle- 

* Poor Mackenzie ! In 1828 I received a letter from the Columbia announ- 
cing the melancholy intelligence that he and four of his men had the pre- 
ceding year been surprised by the 6avages on Fraser's river, who barbarously 
murdered the entire party. 



RAPID CHANGES. 201 

aged Indian, with a note addressed to you. I was obliged to 
give six others in charge to the bearer, whom you will please 
to reward. They were quite exhausted. Their names are, 
La Gueule de travel's, La Titc Plate, La Courte Oreille, La 
Crime de la petite Chienne, Le Poil de Souris, and Gardepie. 
As you will probably be reduced to avail yourself of the same 
shifts, I should hope those horses will be tolerably well recruited 
by the time of your arrival. Mon Petit Gris, Ixi Queue Coupee, 
De la V alike, with La Crime de la Come f endue, and La petite 
Rouge (nez blanc), belonging to the Company, have been left in 
charge of the bearer's brother. Upwards of three hundred 
beavers have been picked up since our departure for the sea ; but 
starvation is staring us in the face, unless we eat the melancholy 
remnant of our lean horses. The natives are abundantly sup- 
plied with chevi-euil ; but they cannot be prevailed on to risk 
killing their emaciated and worn-down horses by bringing any 
meat to the fort. I am daily flattering myself by anticipation 
with the pleasure of seeing you pop in. However, as this is 
leap-year, we must make some extra allowance. Were all leap- 
years invariably attended with the same difficulties and obstacles 
which we have encountered this winter, I would cheerfully give 
up one day quadrennially of my life, at the expense of shorten- 
ing my existence, provided such a sacrifice could preserve things 
in their natural channel." 

About the middle of February the snow and ice began to show 
strong symptoms of solar influence. The former disappeared 
with wonderful rapidity, and the loud crackling of the latter gave 
notice of its continual disruption. I sent a few men a day's 
march ahead, who brought back word that the ice was so far 
broken up that we might try our fortune once more on water. 
We therefore prepared for embarkation ; and having killed our 
two last horses, we bade adieu on the 16th of February to our 
hibernal encampment, without experiencing one feeling of regret 
at the separation. For a few days our progress was slow, and 
exposed to much danger from the immense quantity of floating 
ice, to avoid which required all the strength and ingenuity of 
our voyageurs. 

After many narrow escapes we reached Oakinagan on the 
28th of February, with empty stomachs and exhausted bodies. 

To a person accustomed to the gradual revolutions of the 
seasons in Europe, an American winter changes with surprising 
rapidity. In less than a week from the first appearance of 
warmth, 



■subdued, 



The frost resolves into a trickling thaw. 

Spotted the mountains shine ; loose sleet descends, 

Bb 



202 ARRIVAL AT FORT GEORGE CARNIVAL. 

And floods the country round. The rivers swell, 
Of bonds impatient. Sudden from the hills, 
O'er rocks and woods in broad brown cataracts, 
A thousand snow-fed torrents shoot at once ! 

The disappearance of the snow •was followed by the most 
delightful and refreshing verdure, and the early symptoms of 
vegetation gave us assurance that 

Gentle spring in ethereal mildness 

was once more about to gladden the heart of man ; while the 
light-hearted Canadians under its genial influence again chanted 
forth their wild and pleasing chansons a Vaviron. 

We remained a few days at Oakinagan to recruit the men ; 
after which I proceeded with my party to Spokan House, at 
which place we arrived on the 9th of March. 

Mr. Keith had been for some time under great anxiety as to 
our fate, and had despatched several Indians towards the Co- 
lumbia with letters to me, some of which I received en route. 

The Flat-head and Cootonais parties had arrived a few days 
previously : but owing to their want of a sufficient supply of 
goods, occasioned by our stoppage on the ice, they made an 
indifferent winter's trade. We had scarcely time to recount 
to each other the various uncos we had experienced during the 
winter, when we were obliged to prepare for our spring voyage 
to the sea. We left Spokan House on the 20th of March, and 
having joined the other parties at Oakinagan, proceeded with 
them downwards. The Columbia was one continued torrent, 
owing to the thousand little rivulets which the thaw had forced 
into it, and the beds of which in the summer season are quite 
dry, or hardly visible. Our passage was consequently rapid, 
and we arrived at the sea on the 3d of April. Our friends at 
Fort George were all in prime health, and had weathered out 
the winter in a much more comfortable manner than we had. 
Mr. M'Tavish had made a trip in the Company's schooner to 
the southward, and touched at the Spanish settlements of Mon- 
terey and St. Francisco, at which places, in exchange for the 
produce of England, he obtained a plentiful supply of an article 
which is in great request among the Chinese, and for which the 
unsophisticated traders of Canton will barter their finest com- 
modities ; I mean bona-fide silver made into the shape of Spanish 
dollars, half-dollars, or pistareens. 

As a fresh supply of trading goods was required in the interior, 
our stay at Fort George was necessarily short. It was, how- 
ever, a complete carnival among proprietors, clerks, interpreters, 
guides, and canoe-men. Each voyageur received a liberal extra 



ARRIVAL AT OAKINAGAN — NEW BUILDINGS. 203 

allowance of rum, sugar, flour, &c, and a fortnight of continual 
dissipation obliterated all recollection of the frozen and lenten 
severity of the by-gone winter. 



CHAPTER XIX. 



Author placed in charge of Oakinagan — Erects new buildings there — Mosqui- 
toes — Sagacity of the horses — Rattlesnakes good food — Sarsaparilla — Black 
snakes — Climate — Whirlwinds — Handsome situation — Character of the 
tribe — Manner of trading — Extraordinary cures of consmaption. 

On the 16th of April we took our departure for the interior. 
Our party consisted of sixty-eight men, including officers. 
Few Indians were on the banks of the river, and they conducted 
themselves peaceably. We arrived at Oakinagan on the 30th, 
from whence Mr. John George M'Tavish, accompanied by 
Messrs. La Rocque, Henry, and a party of Canadians, set off 
for the purpose of proceeding across the mountains to Fort 
William, the grand central depot of the interior on the east side. 

Mr. Ross, who had been for the last two years in charge of 
Oakinagan, was by a new arrangement detained this year at 
Fort George as one of the staff clerks ; and I was selected as 
commandant of the former place. Messrs. M'Millan and Mon- 
tour were sent to Spokan, and my friend M'Donald proceeded 
to Kamloops, his old quarters. A sufficient number of men 
were left with me for all purposes of hunting, trading, and 
defence ; but, for the first time since I entered the country, I 
found myself without a colleague or a companion. 

I had a long summer before me : it is the most idle season of 
the year ; and as it was intended to rebuild and fortify Oakina- 
gan during the vacation, I lost no time in setting the men to 
work. 

The immediate vicinity is poorly furnished with timber, and 
our wood-cutters were obliged to proceed some distance up the 
river in search of that necessary article, which was floated down 
in rafts. We also derived considerable assistance from the im- 
mense quantities of drift-wood which was intercepted in its descent 
down the Columbia by the great bend which that river takes 
above Oakinagan. " Many hands make light work ;" and our 
men used such despatch, that before the month of September 
we had erected a new dwelling-house for the person in charge, 
'containing four excellent rooms and a large dining-hall, two 
good houses for the men, and a spacious store for the furs and 



204 MOSQUITOES. 

merchandise, to which was attached a shop for trading with the 
natives. The whole was surrounded by strong palisades fifteen 
feet high, and flanked by two bastions. Each bastion had, in its 
lower story, a light brass four-pounder ; and in the upper, loop- 
holes were left for the use of musketry. 

Our living consisted of salmon, horse, wild-fowl, grouse, and 
small deer, with tea and coffee ; but without the usual adjuncts 
of milk, bread, or butter. However, we looked upon those 
articles as excellent fare, and in point of living, therefore, had 
no cause of complaint throughout the summer. 

I brought from Fort George a few bottles of essence of spruce, 
and by following the printed directions made excellent beer, 
which in the warm weather I found a delightful and healthy 
beverage. 

Owing to the intense heat the men were obliged to leave off 
work every day at eleven, and did not resume until between two 
and three in the afternoon, by which period the burning influ- 
ence of the sun began to decline. In the interval they generally 
slept. 

The mosquitoes seldom annoyed us at midday ; but when 
we wished to enjoy the refreshing coolness of a morning or 
evening's walk, they fastened on us with their infernal stings, 
against which we had no defence except leather. By smoking, 
we might indeed keep them at a civil distance from our noses 
and the parts thereunto adjacent ; but this was a preventive 
which, if constantly practised, would have in a short time redu- 
ced our tobacco to a small quantity. 

The annoyance during our meals was worse. We were 
obliged to have an iron pot at each end of the table, filled with 
saw-dust or rotten wood ; which substance, when ignited, pro- 
duced a quantity of thick smoke without flame. It effectually 
drove them away ; but it was a desperate remedy ; for during 
the process of mastication we were nearly suffocated from the 
dense clouds of vapour by which we were enveloped. In the 
mean time our tormentors hovered about the doors and windows, 
watching the gradual dispersion of the smoke ; and the moment 
the atmosphere became sufficiently clear they charged in from 
all directions on our heads, necks, ears, face, and hands, from 
whence it was impossible to dislodge them, until a fresh supply 
of saw-dust, thrown over the dying embers, put them once more 
to flight. 

The horses also suffered severely from these insects and the 
horse-flies. We caused several fires of rotten wood to be made 
in the prairie in which they were grazing, and round which they 
instinctively congregated to avail themselves of the protection 
afforded by the smoke. Those which had short tails and cropped 



RATTLESNAKES INDIAN DELICACIES. 205 

manes suffered more than the others ; for with these weapons of 
nature (of which, in America, at all events, it is cruel to deprive 
them) they could whisk off* great numbers of the enemy ; while 
the cropped horses, having no such defence, often had their hoofs 
and legs severely burned by standing in the fires to avoid the 
stings of their assailants. I have often observed the poor ani- 
mals, when the smoke began to evaporate, gallop up to the fort, 
and neigh in the most significant manner for a fresh supply of 
damp fuel ; and on perceiving the men appointed for that purpose 
proceed to the different fires, they followed them, and waited 
with the most sagacious patience until the smoke began to ascend 
and disperse their tormentors. 

The point of land upon which the fort is built is formed by 
the junction of the Oakinagan River with the Columbia. 

The point is about three miles in length and two in breadth. 
At the upper end is a chain of hills, round the base of which 
runs a rocky pathway leading to the upper part of the river. 
Rattlesnakes abound beyond these hills, and on the opposite 
sides of the Oakinagan and Columbia rivers : they are also 
found on both sides of the Columbia, below its junction with 
the former stream ; but it is a curious fact, that on the point 
itself, that is, from the rocks to the confluence of the two rivers, 
a rattlesnake has never yet been seen. The Indians are unable 
to account for this peculiarity ; and as we never read of St. 
Patrick having visited that part of the world, we were equally 
at a loss to divine the cause. The soil is dry, and rather sandy, 
and does not materially differ from that of the surrounding 
country. 

Immense quantities of sarsaparilla grow on Oakinagan Point, 
which at times proved very beneficial to some of our valetudi- 
narians.* There are also scattered over it a profusion of wild 
flowers, some of beautiful hues, but scarcely any odour. Among 
them the sun-flower, for height and luxuriance, is conspicu- 
ous. This is the favourite plant of the delightfu llittle hum- 
ming-bird (called by the Canadians oiscau des James), in the 
flowers of which it banquets nearly the livelong day. 

Numbers of black snakes are found on the point ; but they are 
perfectly harmless. We caught some of them in the rooms ; 
and a few have been found at times quietly coiled up in the 
men's beds. The rattlesnakes were very numerous about the 
place where the men were cutting the timber. I have seen 
some of our Canadians eat them repeatedly ! The flesh is very 
white, and, they assured me, had a delicious taste. Their man- 
ner of dressing them is simple. They at first skin the snake in 

* Some of our men were salivated by taking a strong decoction of this root. 



206 HOT WINDS NATIVE TRIBE. 

the same manner as we do eels, after which they run through 
the body a small stick, one end of which is planted in the ground, 
leaning towards the fire : by turning this brocket occasionally, 
the snake is shortly roasted. Great caution however is required 
in killing a snake for eating ; for if the first blow fails, or only 
partially stuns him, he instantly bites himself in different parts 
of the body, which thereby becomes poisoned, and would prove 
fatal to any person who should partake of it. The best method 
is to wait until he begins to uncoil and stretches out the body, 
preparatory to a spring ; when, if a steady aim be taken with a 
stick about six feet long, it seldom fails to kill with the first blow. 

The climate of Oakinagan is highly salubrious. We have for 
weeks together observed the blue expanse of heaven unobscured 
by a single cloud. Rain, too, is very uncommon ; but heavy 
dews fall during the night. 

Several dreadful whirlwinds occurred during the summer, 
which in their effects more resemble the sirocco than any thing 
I had ever experienced in America. When the men observed 
these sudden and dangerous squalls rising, they threw them- 
selves prostrate on the ground, to avoid the clouds of sand and 
dust which otherwise would have blinded them. They were 
generally most violent on the hottest days ; and on some occa- 
sions they forced the planks which were piled at the sawpit 
several feet into the air. 

The situation of Oakinagan is admirably adapted for a trading 
town. With a fertile soil, a healthy climate^ horses in abundance 
for land carriage, an opening to the sea by the Columbia, and a 
communication to the interior by it and the Oakinagan ; the 
rivers well stocked with fish ; and the natives quiet and friendly ; 
it will in my opinion be selected as a spot pre-eminently cal- 
culated for the site of a town, when civilization (which is at 
present so rapidly migrating towards the westward) crosses the 
Rocky Mountains and reaches the Columbia. 

The natives of Oakinagan are an honest, quiet tribe. They 
do not muster more than two hundred warriors ; but as they 
are on terms of friendship with the Kamloops, Sinapoils, and 
other small tribes in their rear ; and as the Columbia in front 
forms an impassable barrier against any surprise from their old 
enemies the Nez Perces, they have in a great degree forgotten 
the practice of "glorious war," and are now settled down into 
a peaceful and rather slothful tribe. Their principal occupa- 
tions consist in catching and curing salmon, and occasionally 
hunting for deer and beaver, neither of which abounds on their 
lands. Acts of dishonesty are of rare occurrence among either 
men or women ; and breaches of chastity among the latter are 
equally infrequent. 



GAMBLING MANNER OF TRADING. 207 

The chief is an old man, who apparently possesses but little 
power. However, from their settled habits of living, and long 
abstinence from war, I should imagine there is very little neces- 
sity for the exercise of his authority. 

Their principal amusement is gambling, at which they are not 
so quarrelsome as the Spokans and other tribes ; but when any 
doubtful case occurs, it is referred for arbitration to one of their 
elders, by whose decision the parties strictly abide. 

Mr. M'Gillivray passed the winter of 1813-14 here, and had 
only four or five men with him, two of whom were generally 
absent hunting. The buildings at that period were very poorly 
defended ; and, were the natives actuated by feelings of hos- 
tility, they could have easily robbed the fort and destroyed his 
little party. This circumstance will show in the strongest point 
of view their friendly feelings towards us. 

Their manner of trading resembles that of most other tribes. 
A party arrive at the fort loaded with the produce of their hunt, 
which they throw down, and round which they squat themselves 
in a circle. The trader lights the calumet of peace, and direct- 
ing his face first to the east, and so to the other cardinal points, 
gives at each a solemn puff. These are followed by a few short 
quick whiffs, and he then hands the calumet to the chief of 
the party, who repeats the same ceremony. The chief passes 
it to the man on his right, who only gives a few whiffs, and so 
on through the whole party until the pipe is smoked out. The 
trader then presents them with a quantity of tobacco to smoke 
ad libitum, which they generally finish before commencing their 
barter, being, as they say themselves, " A long time very hungry 
for a smoke." 

When the smoking terminates, each man divides his skins 
into different lots. For one, he wants a gun ; for another, am- 
munition ; for a third, a copper kettle, an axe, a blanket, a toma- 
hawk, a knife, ornaments for his wife, &c, according to the 
quantity of skins he has to barter. 

The trading business being over, another general smoking- 
match takes place; after which they retire to their village or 
encampment. They are shrewd, hard dealers, and not a whit 
inferior to any native of Yorkshire, Scotland, or Connaught, in 
driving a bargain. 

The Oakinagan mode of curing some of our diseases would 
probably startle many of the faculty. The following case in 
particular passed under my own observation : 

One of the proprietors had, in the year 1814, taken as a wife 
a young and beautiful girl, whose father had been one of the 
early partners, and whose mother was a half breed (her grand- 
mother having been a native of the Cree tribe) ; so that, 



208 MEDICAL TREATMENT. 

although not a pure white, she was fairer than many who are so 
called in Europe. He proceeded with her to Fort George ; 
but the change of climate, from the dry and healthy plains of 
Forts des Prairies to the gloomy forests and incessant rains on 
the north-west coast, was too much for her delicate frame, and 
she fell into a deep consumption. As a last resource, her hus- 
band determined to send her to Oakinagan to try the change 
of air, and requested me to procure her accommodation at that 
place for the summer. This I easily managed. She was ac- 
companied by a younger sister, and an old female attendant. 

For some days after her arrival we were in hourly expectation 
of her death. Her legs and feet were much swollen, and so 
hard that the greatest pressure created no sensation : her hair 
had fallen off in such quantities as nearly to cause baldness ; a 
sable shade surrounded her deeply sunk eyes. She was in fact 
little more than a skeleton, with scarcely any symptoms of 
vitality, and her whole appearance betokened approaching disso- 
lution. Such was the state of the unfortunate patient, when an 
old Indian, who had for some days observed her sitting in the 
porch-door, where she was brought supported on pillows to 
enjoy the fresh air, called me aside, and told me he had no doubt 
of being able to cure her provided I should agree to his plan ; but 
added, that he would not give any explanation of the means he 
intended to use, for fear we might laugh at him, unless we con- 
sented to adopt them. We accordingly held a consultation ; the 
result of which was, that the Indian should be allowed to follow 
his own method. It could not make her worse, and there was a 
possibility of success. 

Having acquainted him with her acquiescence, he immediately 
commenced operations by seizing an ill-looking, snarling, cur 
dog, which he half strangled ; after which he deliberately cut 
its throat. He then ripped open the belly, and placed the legs 
and feet of the patient inside, surrounded by the warm intes- 
tines, in which position he kept them until the carcass became 
cold. He then took them out, and bandaged them with warm 
flannel, which he said was " very good." The following day 
another dog lost its life, and a similar operation was performed. 
This was continued for some time, until every ill-disposed cur in 
the village had disappeared by the throat-cutting knife of our 
dog-destroying doctor, and we were obliged to purchase some 
of a superior breed. While she was undergoing this process 
she took, in addition, a small quantity of bark daily in a glass of 
port wine. In the mean time the swelling gradually decreased, 
the fingers lost their corpse-like nakedness, the hectic flushes 
became rarer, and " that most pure spirit of sense," the eye, 
gave evident tokens of returning animation. When her strength 



EXTRAORDINARY BATH WONDERFUL RECOVERY. 209 

permitted, she was placed on the carriage of a brass field-piece, 
supported by bolsters, and drawn occasionally a mile or two 
about the prairie- The Indian continued at intervals to repeat 
this strange application, until the swelling had entirely disap- 
peared, and enabled her once more to make use of her limbs. 

Two-and-thirty dogs lost their lives in bringing about this ex- 
traordinary recovery, and among them might truly be numbered 

Mongrel, puppy, whelp, and hound, 
And curs of low degree. 

She gradually regained possession of her appetite ; and when 
her husband arrived in the autumn from Fort George, for the 
purpose of crossing the mountains, she was strong enough to 
accompany him. The following summer, on my journey across 
the continent, I met them at Lac la Pluie. She was in the full 
enjoyment of health, and " in the way which ladies wish to be, 
who love their lords." 

Before I quit this subject I may be permitted to mention 
another remarkable cure by means nearly similar, which occur- 
red at Fort George. One of the proprietors, who had been sta- 
tioned there for two years, had, like his countryman Burns, an 
unconquerable " penchant a V adorable moitie du genre humain" 
And among the flat-headed beauties of the coast, where chastity 
is not classed as the first of virtues, he had unfortunately too 
many opportunities of indulging his passion. His excesses 
greatly impaired his health, and obliged him to have recourse to 
the most powerful medicine of the materia medica. His con- 
stitution was naturally weak, and the last attack was of so serious 
a nature, as to deprive him for many days of the powers of arti- 
culation. The contents of the medicine chest were tried in vain, 
and all hopes of his recovery had been abandoned, when a 

Clatsop Indian undertook to cure him. Mr. M consented, 

and a poor horse, having been selected as a sacrifice, was shot. 
The Indian then made an opening in the paunch sufficiently wide 
merely to admit the attenuated body of the patient, who was 
plunged in a state of nudity into the foaming mass of entrails 
up to the chin. The orifice was tucked in tightly about his neck 
to prevent the escape of steam, and he was kept in that situation 
until the body of the animal had lost its warmth. He was then 
conveyed to bed, and enveloped in well-heated blankets. 

The following day he felt considerably better ; and in a few 
days afterward another horse suffered. He underwent a second 
operation, which was attended by similar results. From thence 
he slowly regained his strength ; and by adhering to a strict regi- 
men, was finally restored to his ordinary health. Horses are 

Cc 



210 SHOOTING EXCURSIONS — HAWKS. 

scarce at Fort George, were it not for which circumstance, Mr. 

M assured me he would have killed two or three more 

from the beneficial effects they produced on his constitution. 
His late illness, however, was so dangerous, and his recovery so 
unexpected, that it checked for the future his amatory pro- 
pensities. 



CHAPTER XX. 



Author nearly blinded by hawks — Foxes — Great number of wolves — Their 
method of attacking horses — Lynxes — Bears — Anecdote of a kidnapping 
bruin — Ingenious plan of getting off bear-skins — Account of the horses on 
the Columbia — Great feat performed by one. 

In the great plains on the east side of the Columbia, between 
Oakinagan and the Spokan lands, there are, during the autumnal 
months, plenty of deer, grouse, wild ducks, and geese. 

I spent a great portion of this period with a few of my men 
and some Indians, on shooting excursions, and had excellent 
sport. 

We stopped one very sultry day about noon to rest our horses, 
and enjoy the cooling shade afforded by a clump of sycamore- 
trees with a refreshing draught from an adjoining spring. Several 
large hawks were flying about the spot, two of which we 
brought down. From their great size, immense claws, and large 
hooked beaks, they could have easily carried off a common- 
sized duck or goose. Close to our resting-place was a small hill, 
round the top of which I observed the hawks assemble, and 
judging that a nest was there, without communicating my inten- 
tion to any of the party, I determined to find it out. 

I therefore cautiously ascended the eminence, on the summit 
of which I perceived a nest larger than a common-sized market- 
basket, formed of branches of trees, one laid regularly over the 
other, and the least of which was an inch in circumference. 
Around it were scattered bones, skeletons, and half-mangled 
bodies of pigeons, sparrows, humming-birds, &c. Next to a 
rattlesnake and shark, my greatest aversion is a hawk ; and on 
this occasion it was not diminished by observing the remains of 
the feathered tribe, which had, from time to time, fallen a prey 
to their voracious appetite. I therefore determined to destroy 
the nest, and disperse its inhabitants ; but I had scarcely com- 
menced the work of demolition with my dagger, when old 
and young flew out and attacked me in every direction, but par- 



WOLVUS. 211 

ticularly about my face and eyes ; the latter of which, as a pun- 
ishment for my temerity, they seemed determined to separate 
from their sockets. 

In the mean time I roared out lustily for assistance, and laid 
about me with the dagger. Three men promptly ran up the 
hill, and called out to me to shut my eyes, and throw myself on 
the ground, otherwise 1 should be shortly blinded, promising in 
the mean time to assist me, I obeyed their directions ; and just 
as I began to kiss the earth, a bullet from one of their rifles 
brought down a large hawk, apparently the father of the gang. 
He fell close to my neck, and in his expiring agonies made a 
desperate bite at my left ear, which I escaped, and in return 
gave him the coup de grace, by thrusting about four inches of my 
dagger down his throat. The death of. their chieftain was fol- 
lowed by that of two others, which completely dispersed them ; 
and we retired after breaking up their den. 

Red foxes and wolves are also in great numbers about the 
plains ; but their skins are not now purchased by the Company, 
as the price given for them would not defray the expense of their 
carriage. 

The prairie wolves are much smaller than those which inhabit 
the woods. They generally travel together in numbers, and a 
solitary one is seldom met with. Two or three of us have often 
pursued from fifty to one hundred, driving them before us as 
quickly as our horses could charge. 

Their skins are of no value, and we do not therefore waste 
much powder and ball in shooting them. The Indians, who are 
obliged to pay dear for their ammunition, arc equally careful not 
to throw it away on objects that bring no remunerating value. 
The natural consequence is, that the wolves are allowed to mul- 
tiply ; and some parts of the country are completely overrun by 
them. The Indians catch numbers of them in traps, which they 
set in the vicinity of those places where their tame horses are 
sent to graze. The traps are merely excavations covered over 
with slight switches and hay, and baited with meat, &c, into 
which the wolves fall, and being unable to extricate themselves, 
they perish by famine, or the knife of the Indian. These 
destructive animals annually destroy numbers of horses ; parti- 
cularly during the winter season, when the latter get entangled 
in the snow ; in which situation they become an easy prey to 
their light-footed pursuers, ten or fifteen of which will often 
fasten on one animal, and with their long fangs in a few minutes 
separate the head from the body. If, however, the horses are 
not prevented from using their legs, they sometimes punish the 
enemy severely ; as an instance of this, I saw one morning the 
bodies of two of our horses which had been killed the night 



212 WOLVES. 

before, and around were lying eight dead and maimed wolves ; 
some with their brains scattered about, and others with their 
limbs and ribs broken by the hoofs of the furious animals in their 
vain attempts to escape from their sanguinary assailants. 

While I was at Spokan I went occasionally to the horse prairie, 
which is nearly surrounded by partially- wooded hills, for the 
purpose of watching the manoeuvres of the wolves in their com- 
bined attacks. The first announcement of their approach was 
a few shrill currish barks at intervals, like the outpost firing of 
skirmishing parties. These were answered by similar barking 
from an opposite direction, until the sounds gradually approxi- 
mated, and at length ceased on the junction of the different parties. 
We prepared our guns, and concealed ourselves behind a thick 
cover. In the mean time, the horses, sensible of the approach- 
ing danger, began to paw the ground, snort, toss up their heads, 
look wildly about them, and exhibit all the symptoms of fear. 
One or two stallions took the lead, and appeared to wait with a 
degree of comparative composure for the appearance of the 
enemy. 

The allies at length entered the field in a semicircular form, 
with their flanks extended for the evident purpose of surround- 
ing their prey. They were between two and three hundred 
strong. The horses, on observing their movement, knew from 
experience its object, and dreading to encounter so numerous a 
force, instantly turned round, and galloped off in a contrary 
direction. Their flight was the signal for the wolves to advance ; 
and immediately uttering a simultaneous yell, they charged after 
the fugitives, still preserving their crescent form. Two or three 
of the horses, which were not in the best condition, were quickly 
overtaken by the advanced guard of the enemy. The former, 
finding themselves unable to keep up with the band, commenced 
kicking at their pursuers, several of which received some severe 
blows ; but these being reinforced by others, they would have 
shortly despatched the horses had we not, just in time, emerged 
from our place of concealment, and discharged a volley at the 
enemy's centre, by which a few were brought down. The 
whole battalion instantly wheeled about, and fled towards the 
hills in the utmost disorder ; while the horses, on hearing the fire, 
changed their course and galloped up to us. Our appearance 
saved several of them from the fangs of their foes ; and by their 
neighing they seemed to express their joy and gratitude at our 
timely interference. 

Although the wolves of North America are the most daring of 
all the beasts of prey on that continent, they are by no means 
so courageous or ferocious as those of Europe, particularly in 
Spain or the south of France, in which countries they commit 



BEARS KIDNAPPING. 213 

dreadful ravages both on man and beast :* whereas an American 
wolf, except forced by desperation, will seldom or never attack a 
human being ; a remarkable instance of which is mentioned in 
the detail of my wanderings in the eighth chapter. The lynxes 
are by no means so numerous as the wolves, but they are equally 
destructive, and individually more daring. They generally travel 
alone, or in couples, and seldom fly as the wolves do on the first 
approach of man. The largest American lynx does not exceed 
in size an English mastiff*. 

Bears are scarce about the plains, but they are found in con- 
siderable numbers in the vicinity of the woods and lakes. Their 
flesh is excellent, particularly in the summer and autumnal 
months, when roots and wild fruit are had in abundance. They 
are most dangerous animals to encounter, especially if they are 
slightly wounded, or that any of their cubs are in danger, in 
which case they will rush on a man, though he were armed at 
all points ; and wo to him if Bruin should once enfold him in 
his dreadful grasp. 

I have seen several of our hunters, as well as many Indians, 
who had been dreadfully lacerated in their encounters with 
bears : some have been deprived of their ears, others had their 
noses nearly torn oft', and a few have been completely blinded. 

From the scarcity of food in the spring months they are then 
more savage than at any other season ; and during that period 
it is a highly dangerous experiment to approach them. 

The following anecdote will prove this ; and, were not the fact 
confirmed by the concurrent testimony of ten more, I would 
not have given it a place among my memorabilia. 

In the spring of this year (1816) Mr. M'Millan had despatched 
ten Canadians in a canoe down the Flat-head River on a trading 
excursion. The third evening after quitting the fort, while they 
were quietly sitting round a blazing fire eating a hearty dinner 
of deer, a large half-famished bear cautiously approached the 
group from behind an adjacent tree ; and before they were 
aware of his presence, he sprang across the fire, seizffd one of 
the men (who had a well-furnished bone in his hand) round his 
waist, with the two fore paws, and ran about fifty yards with him 

* During the late Peninsular war, the Duke of Wellington had occasion to 
send despatches by a mounted dragoon, to a general of division not quite a 
day's march distant from head-quarters. The answer not having arrived at 
the period it was expected, His Grace despatched three others to ascertain the 
cause. They found the mangled remains of their unfortunate comrade lying 
beside those of his horse, and the greater portion of the flesh eaten off" their 
bodies. His sword was firmly grasped in his mutilated hand, and the dead 
carcasses of seven or eight wolves which lay about him exhibited strong marks 
of the sabre, and of the desperation with which he fought before he was over- 
powered by numbers. 



214 KIDNAPPING — TRADING MANOEUVRE. 

on his hind legs before he stopped. His comrades were so 
thunderstruck at the unexpected appearance of such a visiter, 
and his sudden retreat with pan ere Louisson, that they for some 
time lost all presence of mind ; and, in a state of fear and con- 
fusion, were running to and fro, each expecting in his turn to be 
kidnapped in a similar manner ; when at length Baptiste Le 
Blanc, a half-breed hunter, seized his gun, and was in the act of 
firing at the bear, but was stopped by some of the others, who 
told him he would inevitably kill their friend in the position 
in which he was then placed. During this parley Bruin relaxed 
his grip of the captive, whom he kept securely under him, and 
very leisurely began picking the bone which the latter had 
dropped. Once or twice Louisson attempted to escape, which 
only caused the bear to watch him more closely ; but on his 
making another attempt, he again seized Louisson round the 
waist, and commenced giving him one of those infernal embraces 
which generally end in death. The poor fellow was now in 
great agony, and vented the most frightful screams ; and observ- 
ing Baptiste with his gun ready, anxiously watching a safe oppor- 
tunity to fire, he cried out, Tire! tire! man cher frere, situ 
m'aimes. Tire, pour V armour du bon Dieu ! A la Ute ! a la Ute ! 
This was enough for Le Blanc, who instantly let fly, and hit the 
bear over the right temple. He fell, and at the same moment 
dropped Louisson ; but he gave him an ugly scratch with his 
claws across the face, which for some time afterward spoiled 
his beauty. After the shot Le Blanc darted to his comrade's 
assistance, and with his coutcau de chasse quickly finished the 
sufferings of the man-stealer, and rescued his friend from im- 
pending death ; for, with the exception of the above-mentioned 
scratch, he escaped uninjured. They commenced the work of 
dissection with right good-will ; but on skinning the bear, they 
found scarcely any meat on his bones ; in fact, the animal had 
been famishing, and in a fit of hungry desperation made one of 
the boldest attempts at kidnapping ever heard of in the legends 
of ursine* courage. 

The skins of these animals are not at present held in the same 
estimation that they were formerly, particularly the brown or 
grizzly kind, few of which are now purchased. Good rich 
black ones and cubs still bring a fair price at the trading posts 
nearest to Canada and Hudson's Bay. 

About twenty-five years ago the Company had a great number 
of bear-skins lying in their stores, for which there was no demand. 
One of the directors, a gentleman well known for the fertility 
of his expedients as an Indian trader, hit upon a plan for getting 
off the stock, which succeeded beyond his most sanguine expec- 
tations. He selected a few of the finest and largest skins in the 



HORSES. 215 

store, which he had made into a hammercloth splendidly orna- 
mented in silver with the royal arms. A deputation of the 
directors then waited upon a late Royal Duke with the hammer- 
oloth, and respectfully requested that he would be graciously 
pleased to accept it as a slight testimony of their respect. His 
Royal Highness returned a polite answer, and condescendingly 
consented to receive the present. A few days after the king 
held a levee, and his illustrious son proceeded to court in his state- 
coach with its splendid hammercloth. It attracted universal 
attention ; and to every inquiry as to where the skins were 
obtained, the answer was, " from the North- West Company." 
In three weeks afterward there was not a black, or even a 
brown bearskin in the Company's warehouse ; and the unfortu- 
nate peer, who could not sport a hammercloth of bear, was voted 
a bore by his more lucky brethren. 

The skin of the red fox is not now accounted valuable ; and 
scarcely any are purchased. The Indians therefore seldom 
trouble themselves in hunting these animals, and in some dis- 
tricts they are consequently greatly on the increase. There 
are no black foxes on the Columbia ; but next to them in beauty 
and value are the silver gray, which bring a high price, and sev- 
eral of which are purchased at Oakinagan and Spokan. The 
mandarins of China hold them in great estimation, and those 
which we sent to Canton were eagerly purchased for their use. 

The number of horses among the various tribes on the Co- 
lumbia and its tributary streams differs with the circumstances of 
the country. Among the Flat-heads, Cootonais, Spokans, &c., 
whose lands are rather thickly wooded, there are not more than 
sufficient for their actual use, and every colt, on arriving at 
the proper age, is broken in for the saddle. But in the 
countries inhabited by the Wallah Wallahs, Nez Perces, and 
Shoshones, which chiefly consist of open plains, well watered 
and thinly wooded, they are far more numerous, and thou- 
sands are allowed to go wild. Their general height is about 
fifteen hands, which they seldom exceed ; and ponies are very 
scarce. Those reared in the plains are excellent hunters, and 
the swiftest racers ; but are not capable of enduring the same 
hardships as those bred in the vicinity of the high and woody 
districts. We have seen from seven hundred to a thousand 
wild horses in a band ; and some of the party who crossed the 
continent by the Missouri route, told me that in parts of the 
country belonging to the Snake Indians, bands varying from 
three to four thousand were frequently seen ; and further to the 
southward they are far more numerous.* The Indian horses 

* The Spaniards at St. Francisco informed our traders that in the year 1812 
thoy were obliged to kill upwards of 30,000 horses in California, in order to 



216 HORSES — EXTRAORDINARY FEAT. 

are never shod ; and, as we were equally with them deprived 
of smith, farrier, and iron, we were unable to introduce that 
valuable practice into the country. Owing to this circumstance, 
their hoofs, particularly of such as are in constant work, are 
nearly worn away before they are ten or eleven years old, after 
which they are unfit for any labour except carrying children. 
They are easily managed, and are seldom vicious. An Indian 
horse is never taught to trot. The natives dislike this pace, and 
prefer to it the canter or light gallop. They are hard taskmas- 
ters ; and the hair-rope bridles, with the padded deer-skin saddles 
which they use, lacerate the mouths and backs of the unfortu- 
nate animals in such a manner as to render them at times objects 
of commiseration to men of harder hearts than the late worthy 
member for Galway. In summer they have no shelter from 
the heat, in winter no retreat from the cold ; and their only 
provender throughout the year is the wild loose grass of the 
prairies, which in the latter season is generally covered with 
snow ; and in the former is brown and arid, from the intense 
heat of the sun. 

I have already given some details of the hardships to which 
the horses in this country are subject, and shall merely add one 
anecdote more. In the spring of 1813, before the dissolution of 
the Pacific Fur Company, while I was stationed at Spokan 
House with Mr. Clarke, he received a letter from Mr. Farnham, 
who had the charge of the party sent to the Flat-heads, stating 
that he had arrived at the Flat-head portage, a distance of sev- 
enty-two miles from Spokan House, where he should be obliged 
to remain a few days to recruit his horses ; that his trading 
goods were exhausted, and he was entirely out of tobacco ; that 
a large party of Flat-heads were following them with a quantity 
of valuable skins ; that his rival, Mr. M'Donald, was also unsup- 
plied with tobacco ; that whichever of them got the first supply 
of that article would, by treating the Indians to a grand smoking 
match, succeed in getting the produce of their hunt ; and that 
in order to attain that object, it was absolutely necessary the 
tobacco required should be with him that night, otherwise the 
natives would all go over in a body to Mr. M'Donald, with 
whom they had been longer acquainted than with him. 

It was eleven o'clock in the forenoon when this letter reached 
us, and Mr. Clarke thought it impossible for any horse to go a 
distance of seventy -two miles during the remainder of that day ; 
at all events, he knew that none of the Company's horses were 
fit for such a task ; and was about giving up the idea as hope- 
less, when I offered to undertake it with a celebrated horse of 

preserve sufficient grass for the buffalo, the fat of which forms an article of 
exportation. 



COMPLETE SUCCESS LE BLEU. 217 

his own, called " Le Bleu" The case was important : a blow 
was necessary to be struck ; and although lie prized the horse 
above all his chattels in the Indian country, he at once deter- 
mined to sacrifice his private feelings to the interests of the Com- 
pany. Two men were selected to accompany me, and orders 
were given to catch " Le Bleu" He was a noble animal, be- 
tween fifteen and sixteen hands high, seven years of age, ad- 
mirably built, and derived his name from his colour, which was 
a dappled white and sky-blue. He was also a prime racer, 
and had beaten all competitors on the turf. 

Owing to the delay occasioned by catching the horses we 
did not start till twelve o'clock. I remained in company with 
the men for the first two hours at a slight canter, after which I 
took the lead in a hard gallop, and quickly lost sight of them. I 
followed an excellent well-beaten pathway for upwards of sixty 
miles through the Pointed-heart Plains ; but late in the evening 
it brought me to a thick wood, through which it runs for a dis- 
tance of ten miles, when it terminates at the portage. 

Shortly after entering the wood, night overtook me ; and I 
several times lost the pathway, which, owing to the darkness, 
and a quantity of fallen trees and brushwood, became extremely 
intricate. The sagacity of my horse, however, extricated me 
from these egaremens, and a little after eight o'clock I emerged 
from the forest, and was delighted at the cheering appearance 
of a range of fires along the banks of the river. The Bleu, 
which had been for some time drooping, on seeing the light, 
knew his task was at an end, and galloped up in fine style to 
Farnham's tent, when he was immediately let loose to regale 
himself in the prairie. 

I had brought a few fathoms of thick twist tobacco with 
me ; on learning which the Indians crowded about us, and in a 
few seconds each man's head was enveloped in clouds of smoke 
They promised that we should have all their skins ; but in order 
to make assurance doubly sure, we requested them to bring 
their respective packages to the tent, and deposite them therein 
until morning. This was at once complied with, after which 
the smoking recommenced. About two hours after, two of our 
rivals arrived with a quantity of tobacco. They had started 
from Spokan shortly after me, but were never able to overtake 
the gallant Bleu. They were much better acquainted with the 
intricacies of the pathway through the wood than I was ; and 
if their horses had been equal to mine, it is very probable the 
result would have been different. They were much chagrined 
at our success ; and on taxing the Indians with having deserted 
them for strangers, they replied, that being the first to satisfy their 
hungry cravings for tobacco, they could do no less than give us 

Dd 



218 THE AUTHOR WISHES TO LEAVE THE COUNTRY. 

the preference ; but added that they would punctually pay them 
any debts which they had contracted with Mr. M'Donald, which 
promise they faithfully kept. 

About midnight the two men, whom I had left behind me, 
reached the encampment. They also were for some time lost 
in the wood, and like myself were obliged to depend on the 
sagacity of their horses to set them right. 

We returned to Spokan House by easy stages ; but I did not 
ride the Bleu. In less than a week after he was perfectly recov- 
ered from the fatigue of his journey, and in the summer of the 
same year beat the fleetest horses of both Companies on the 
race-course. 



CHAPTER XXL 



Letter from the proprietors — Author winters at Oakinagan — Letter from Mr. 
Mackenzie — A number of horses stolen — Successful plan to recover them — 
Description of soil, climate, productions, &c. of the lower part of the Co- 
lumbia. 

The summer of 1816 did not tend to diminish my growing 
aversion to the Indian country. Horse-racing, deer-hunting, 
and grouse-shooting were pleasant pastimes enough, but the 
want of companionable society rendered every amusement 
" stale, flat, and unprofitable." Zimmerman in vain displayed 
the charms of solitude ; he never vegetated among savages. 
Bad French and worse Indian began to usurp the place of Eng- 
lish, and I found my conversation gradually becoming a bar- 
barous compound of various dialects. The cherished object, 
too, of a young man's ambition was still at an immeasurable 
distance, and I felt that an old age of affluence could only be 
purchased by the sacrifice in youth of all the comforts of social 
life. In the midst of these and similar reflections, the monotony 
of my life was, for a moment, relieved by the arrival of Mr. 
Donald Mackenzie, with two canoes and twenty men from Fort 
William. This gentleman had been one of the proprietors of 
the Pacific Fur Company, from which, after its dissolution, he 
changed to the North-west. He was now on his way to Fort 
George with despatches, and took charge of the autumn brigade 
to that place. By Mr. Mackenzie 1 received letters from home, 
which at once determined me to apply for leave to quit the 
country ; and having written to the proprietors to that effect^ 
I received the following answer, viz. — 



RESIGNATION ACCEPTED WINTER ARRANGEMENT. 219 

"Fort George, September 30th, 1816. 
" Dear Sir, 
" In acceding to your most earnest request of being discharged 
from our service ensuing spring, we give way to the voice of 
nature and of humanity, which cannot, will not for a moment 
allow us to hesitate when the object is to reanimate and cheer 
up the drooping spirits of your venerable and aged parents. At 
the same time rest assured that on no other consideration could 
we ever be induced to part with your most useful services, more 
particularly at a period when we are on the eve of being put to 
such shifts to fill up the different requisitions. 

"As to your character, as far as prudence, integrity, and per- 
severance, joined to an unceasing desire to please and render 
yourself useful, can command regard, you certainly are deserv- 
ingly entitled to ours, and no encomium on our part could add 
to our high opinion of your merit. 

" In expectation of seeing you next spring at this place, prior 
to your taking your final departure, we remain with sincere 
regard, 

" Dear Sir, 

" Your most obedient servants, 
"James Keith, 
"Angus Betiiune, 
" Donald Mackenzie, 
" For North-west Company." 

Mr. Mackenzie was himself the bearer of this letter. He 
strongly urged me to change my resolution, and declared if I 
consented to remain in the country my promotion should take 
place in a short time after the expiration of my engagement ; 
but as my mind was made up to return home, I refused acceding 
to his friendly wishes. 

It was arranged I should pass the winter in my present post 
(Oakinagan), in which, on account of my popularity with the 
natives, 1 had succeeded in obtaining more furs than most of 
my predecessors. Mr. Mackenzie went to Spokan with Messrs. 
M'Donald and Montour for the outposts, Mr. Ross proceeded to 
Kamloops, and Mr. M'Millan to his old post at the Flat-heads. 

Mr. Mackenzie had made arrangements with the chiefs of the 
various tribes for the transmission of an express from Oakinagan 
to Fort George, promising to each a handsome present, provided 
it reached its destination, and that an answer was brought back. 
In pursuance of this plan, he forwarded despatches to the sea, 
to which he received an answer, as will be seen from the follow- 
ing letter : 



220 CORRESPONDENCE — SKETCH OF CHARACTER. 

Spokan House, February 12th, 1817. 
" Dear Cox, 

" It was but yesterday, on my return from the Nez Perch, 
that I had the pleasure of perusing your much esteemed letter 
of the 29th of December. My despatches reached Fort George 
in thirty-six days, and were answered on the 12th of December ; 
so that in sixteen days from the fort they reached your place. 
The safety of this conveyance will, 1 hope, do away with the ne- 
cessity of the usual fall voyage to the sea. On arriving here I 
found I had ninety souls to provide with the necessaries of life, 
and therefore determined on an excursion to Lewis River. Your 
friend, Mr. M'Donald, accompanied me, and, besides the Cana- 
dians, I took ten Sandwich islanders, whom I armed and accou- 
tred quite cii mUitaire. The Nez Perch did not half relish the 
swarthy aspect of these invincibles, and fancied I intended to 
resent former grudges. However we did not see them all. 

" My trip has simply answered the purpose of obtaining pro- 
visions for the passing day, which, at this post, I assure you has 
been no contemptible attainment. The horses I purchased are 
already nearly consumed ; you will therefore, I trust, excuse my 
sending two of my people in your direction. I have ordered 
them to encamp in your environs ; and the Nipising, who is 
chasseur, is to supply your board with game. It will prove a 
seasonable variety to your dried salmon. 

"I regret the frost prevents me sending you potatoes: they 
would be of no service. I have received accounts from Mr. 
M'Millan. He informs me he was nearly surrounded by the 
Piegans (the Black-feet) ; but they were prevented by hunger 
from advancing near enough to the fort. He has had a lucky 
escape. Should you be induced to alter your mind about quit- 
ting the Company, I shall feel very happy by your remaining 
with us. You may rely on all I have told you. You need feel 
no scruples on that head. I passed an agreeable time with our 
friend Finan. He is certainly a most worthy mortal, and desires 
to be remembered to you. 

" Yours, &c. 

" Donald Mackenzie."* 

Mr. Mackenzie, as already mentioned, had crossed the conti- 
nent with Mr. Hunt. In the course of that journey he passed 
through the lands of the Snake Indians, in which he observed 
great numbers of beavers ; and his chief motive in coming to 
the Columbia was to form a trading establishment in that dan- 
gerous district, no attempt at which had been made since the 

* This gentleman is now governor of the colony established at Red River. 






TEDIOUS WINTER RESIDENCE ROBBERY. 221 

massacre of Mr. Read and his party. Mr. Mackenzie was pecu- 
liarly qualified for this hazardous undertaking, lie was an expe- 
rienced trader, and possessed an accurate knowledge of the 
localities of the country, lie could, with his rifle, drive a dozen 
balls consecutively at one hundred paces through a Spanish 
dollar, which accomplishment alone was enough to secure him 
the respect of the Indians. To the most cautious prudence he 
united the most dauntless intrepidity ; in fact, no hardships could 
fatigue, no dangers intimidate him. As we had many reasons to 
suspect that tne Pierced-noses, through whose lands a party 
proceeding to the country of the Snakes must pass, were actu- 
ated by feelings of hostility, Mr. Mackenzie undertook the win- 
ter's trip to Lewis River, not so much for the purpose of pur- 
chasing horses (for that Mr. M'Donald could have done), as to 
form a judgment from persona] observation of their disposition. 
Although his reception was not the most friendly, he was satisfied 
there was little danger to be apprehended, and therefore deter- 
mined to make the attempt early in the summer. 

I passed five weary winter months at Oakinagan without a 
friend to converse with ; and the severity of the season debarred 
me from the exercise of field sports, which, during the summer, 
partially relieved the unsocial tedium of my existence. Tea and 
tobacco were my only luxuries ; and my pipe was my pot-com- 
panion. Dried salmon was our principal article of food, with a 
bit of lean deer, with which the natives occasionally supplied 
us, like 

Angels' visits, few and far between. 

Our horses were too few and too poor for the kettle ; and 
scarcely a week elapsed that one did not fall a victim to the vil- 
lanous wolves which infested the snow-covered plains. 

One morning in the beginning of February, the men whom I 
had sent out to collect the horses found ten missing, and the fresh 
traces of human feet in the snow convinced them they must 
have been stolen. I immediately sent for the Oakinagan chief, 
and told him I should require his assistance in recovering the 
horses. This he readily granted, and forthwith ordered five of 
his young men to catch their horses and join him at the fort. I 
selected three Canadians and two Sandwich islanders to accom- 
pany me, and in less than an hour all our warlike arrangements 
were completed. We proceeded in the first instance to the 
prairie ; and the chief having made his observations, declared at 
once they must have been stolen by the Sinapoils. It had snowed 
hard the preceding night ; which circumstance, without the 
assistance of the Indians, would have puzzled our men to find 
out the traces of the robbers. The chief however quickly dU» 



222 SEARCH DISCOVERY LENITY. 

covered their route, and we followed his guidance until late in 
the evening, when we were obliged to stop to rest the horses, 
and take a little refreshment. He told me we were within a few 
hours' march of the robbers, and advised us to continue on 
during the night, by which means we were certain of catching 
them unprepared, when we could kill them all, and recover our 
horses. Having no relish for raising scalps, I declined his san- 
guinary proposal ; at which he did not appear too well pleased. 
We resumed our journey before day-break the following morn- 
ing ; and after riding about two hours, the chief desired us to 
dismount, and lead our horses. We complied. In less than 
half an hour our path opened into a small glen, in the bottom of 
which were half a dozen mat-covered lodges, and around them 
we perceived about fifteen horses scraping the snow. The stolen 
ones were among them. We instantly mounted ; and before 
the robbers were aware of our approach we had surrounded 
their miserable encampment. On hearing the war-whoop of 
our Oakinagan allies, they rushed out, partly armed ; but seeing 
our numbers, they held down their bows, and quietly submitted. 
I never saw such a group of meagre wretches. They were 
quite naked ; and 

Sharp misery had worn them to the bones. 

Their wives and children crouched under mats, and kept up a 
howling cry, while the Oakinagan chief thus addressed them : 

" Sinapoils ! you are dogs ; you are robbers. You stole the 
horses from our good friends the white men ; and as a punish- 
ment we shall now take away your horses." One of them 
replied : " We are dogs ; we are robbers ; we did steal the 
good white men's horses ; but we are poor, and cold, and hungry. 
The wolves destroyed all our own horses but five ; and as our 
dried salmon was all gone, and our wives and children starving, 
sooner than see them die, we took the horses from the white 
men, because we knew they were good people, and could easily 
purchase others. We are sorry for what we have done ; but if 
you take our five remaining horses, we shall all die of hunger." 

This appeal made no impression on the flinty-hearted chief, 
who counselled us to take the five horses as a punishment to the 
robbers. I refused however to adopt his advice ; for, indepen- 
dently of the inhumanity of such a course, I did not deem it 
prudent to resort to measures of severity against a tribe who 
might have many opportunities of retaliating on our hunters in 
the plains. I therefore told them that in consequence of their 
starving condition, we would abstain from punishing them on 
that occasion, but any future trespass should not escape with 



PERIODICAL RAINS NATURAL PRODUCTIONS. 223 

impunity. As they all appeared to want something to eat, I 
ordered one of their horses to be shot, and leaving the body for 
their own use, we returned to the fort, which we reached late 
that evening. Our forbearance produced no expression of gra- 
titude from the Sinapoils; and the chief reproached us for 
having acted in such a mild manner. I made him and his young 
men a suitable present, and so ended this pursuit of the ' black- 
mail' drovers. 

As this was the last winter I spent in the Indian country, I 
shall, before commencing the journal of my voyage across the 
continent, give some brief remarks on the soil and productions 
of the various districts on the Columbia, the manners and cus- 
toms of the different tribes, their distinctive peculiarities, &c. 

The climate about the entrance of the river, and thence to the 
first rapids, is mild. The mercury seldom falls below the freez- 
ing point ; and never rises above 80. Westerly winds prevail 
during the spring and summer months, and are succeeded by 
north-westers, which blow pretty freshly during the autumn. 
October ushers in the south wind and rain, both of which con- 
tinue without intermission until January, when the wind begins 
to veer to the westward ; but the rain seldom ceases until the 
termination of April. The gentlemen who have wintered at 
Fort George tell me the torrents which pour down during this 
period are dreadful. For weeks together the sun is invisible ; 
and the only protection for those whose duty compels them to 
be in the open air, is a shirt made from the intestines of the sea- 
lion, the parts of which are ingeniously sewed together with fine 
threads of nerf. A kind of capuchon, or hood, is attached to 
the collar; and when this garde-pluie\s on, the wearer may bid 
defiance to the heaviest rain. These shirts are made by the 
natives in the vicinity of the Russian settlements to the north- 
ward of the Columbia, and some of them are neatly orna- 
mented. 

Nature has been peculiarly bountiful to the natives of this 
district ; and nothing but the grossest neglect of her gifts can 
reduce them to want. The spring months supply them with 
immense quantities of small fish resembling pilchard, which by 
Lewis and Clarke are called anchovies. These are smoke-dried, 
and form an important article of barter with the upper Indians 
for roots. 

From June to the latter end of August they have an abund- 
ance of deliciously flavoured salmon, which, from its richness, at 
first produced a general dysentery among our people. 

We found the wild raspberries an excellent remedy for this 
disorder, which was effectually checked by their astringent 
qualities. 



224 NATURAL PRODUCTIONS. 

The months of August and September furnish a plentiful 
supply of prime sturgeon. This fish attains a great size. Some 
of those we took were eleven feet in length ; and, with the 
entrails out, weighed from three to four hundred pounds. 

This period also produces a variety of wild fruit : — in June, 
small white strawberries of sweet flavour; these are followed by 
red and amber raspberries of the ordinary size, but somewhat 
sour. They are found in moist shady grounds, and grow on 
bushes from ten to fifteen feet high. 

During the months of July, August, and September, the fol- 
lowing kinds of fruit are obtained in considerable quantities : 
viz., blue-berries, wild-cherries, gooseberries, wild-pears, and a 
species of bitter crab-apple, which cannot be used unless coddled 
or boiled. 

There is an evergreen about the size of a common goose- 
berry bush, and with small thick leaves resembling laurel. In the 
month of August it produces abundance of fruit of a small 
oblong form, which grow in thick clusters. This fruit has an 
insipid taste, but is looked on as healthy, and great quantities of 
it may be eaten without injury. It is much esteemed by the 
natives, who preserve it for their winter's use, by making it into 
small cakes, which are gradually dried before a slow fire. 

The country also abounds in various nutritive roots, of which 
the Indians are extremely fond, and some of which are excellent 
antiscorbutics. They collect large quantities of a kind resem- 
bling young onions, which, in the first instance, they dry on hot 
stones. They are then pulverised, and, being worked into a 
paste, are formed into loaves from five to six pounds weight, 
which they lay by for seasons of scarcity. This bread has a 
taste resembling liquorice. An inferior description of fish re- 
sembling salmon is taken in the months of October and Novem- 
ber. It is poor, dry, and has an insipid taste The flesh is 
white,.the teeth long, the snout bent like the beak of a parrot, 
and it contains very little substance. 

The principal quadrupeds are the elk, red deer, black-tailed 
deer ; the black, brown, and grizzly bear, the last of which is 
extremely ferocious ; the wolf, panther, tiger-cat, wild-cat, mar- 
mot, beaver, land-otter, musk-rat, wood-rat. and, the most valua- 
ble of all the fur tribe, the sea-otter. White bears are occa- 
sionally killed on the coast to the northward of the Columbia ; 
but they are scarce. 

The most remarkable of the feathered tribe are the black, 
brown, and nun eagle ; the hawk, pelican, and cormorant ; the 
swan, heron, crane, bustard, gray and white goose, and various 
species of wild ducks, &c. 

The soil in the valleys consists of a bed of rich black mould, 



HABITS AND MANNERS — LANGUAGE. 225 

about six inches in depth, which covers a stratum of gray earth 
extremely cold. The latter lies on a layer of large gravelly 
sand ; and under all is a bed of hard flinty stones. On the 
high grounds, under a thin covering of black mould, are found 
good quarry stones well adapted for building. There is a bank 
of white earth resembling chalk to the southward of Point 
Adams ; and further on, in the same direction, the Indians find 
red, green, and yellow earths, and a species of heavy shining 
clay resembling lead-mine. No limestone is found in the neigh- 
bourhood. 

Few of the various vegetable seeds which were planted came 
to perfection. The turnips indeed attained a prodigious size. 
One weighed fifteen pounds and a half, and was thirty-three 
inches in circumference ; they were in flower at the end of 
December, and were left in the ground ; but the seeds were 
destroyed by the mice which infested the garden. The radishes 
throve tolerably well j but owing to the coldness of the earth 
the potatoes failed the second year. 

The trees most common in the neighbourhood of Fort George 
are the cedar, spruce, pine, alder, &c. The cedars are from 
twenty to thirty feet in circumference, and proportionably high. 
The alders also are extremely large, some of them measuring 
from twelve to twenty inches in diameter. A few leagues 
above the fort, ash and oak are found ; the former is of tolerable 
size ; but the latter, compared with its noble brother in Eng- 
land, is a mere dwarf. 

In the 14th chapter, I have referred to the peculiarities, 
moral qualities, and mechanical ingenuity of the natives who 
reside about the mouth of the Columbia. Little therefore re- 
mains to be said on these subjects. The same kind of houses 
and canoes, the same flattening of the heads, an equal love of 
thieving and lying on the part of the men ; shameless profligacy 
among the women ; the same mode of living, and a similarity in 
their manner of burial, are observable among the various tribes, 
from the rapids to the ocean. They all, too, speak the same 
language, which is decidedly the most unpronounceable com- 
pound of gutturals ever formed for the communication of human 
thoughts, or the expression of human wants. The following 
are a few of their words : 

Icht, one. Quaiust, nine. 

Makust, two. Itallilum, ten. 

Thlown, three. Ekoun icht, eleven. 

Lakut, four. Ekoun makust, twelve. 

Quannvm, five. Makust thlall, twenty. 

Tdkui, six. Moolak, a deer. 

JSinebakust, seven. Equannet, salmon. 

Slouktekane, eight. Kaienoult, tobacco. 

Ee 



THE RIVERS WALLAMAT AND COWELISKEE. 

Passischqua, & blankot. Mittaight o feofe, sit down there. 

Tillikum, men. Tane tse koolama, show me your pipe. 

Kamoox, a dog. Patlach nain maika ? will you give it 
Sakquallal, a'gun, to me ? 

Mr. Franchere, who attained a more thorough knowledge of 
their language than any one in the Company's service, states 
that the letters F, V, and others, are not articulated in any of 
their words. The letter R is also wanting ; but some words, 
pronounced with a thick guttural lisp, such as chreluit, ap- 
proach its sound. The combinations thl, tl, It, are frequent, and 
are also very common in the Mexican language. 

In proportion as we approach the rapids from the sea, female 
impurity becomes less perceptible ; beyond this point it entirely 
ceases. I think it necessary to mention this fact, in conse- 
quence of the sweeping censure passed by Lewis and Clarke on 
all the women between the Rocky Mountains and the sea. 
The reader must not suppose that I wish to cast any doubt on 
the general accuracy of those intelligent travellers ; indeed, cir- 
cumstanced as they were, the immense fund of correct and 
valuable information contained in their journal is surprising ; 
but in this instance they have wandered from the fact. 

Having ascended the Columbia nine times ; and descended it 
eight, I had better opportunities of judging of the manners of 
the natives than those who merely passed up and down ; and 
during those various journeys I never saw the slightest approxi- 
mation to levity of manners among the women above the rapids. 

The two most important rivers which fall into the Columbia 
below the rapids are the Wallamat, or Multnomah, and the 
Coweliskee. The entrance of the former is about one hundred 
miles from the sea, and its general course is a little to the east- 
ward of south. I was merely a few miles above its junction 
with the Columbia ; but Messrs. Clapp, Franchere, and Halsey, 
who ascended it a considerable distance, state that it runs 
through a low well- wooded country for upwards of sixty miles, 
when the navigation is interrupted by a considerable fall, above 
which the channel contracts, and the banks become higher and 
less woody. The climate in the Wallamat is remarkably mild, 
and not so moist as that on the coast. It possesses a rich and 
luxuriant soil, which yields an abundance of fruits and roots.* 
The Indians are tranquil : there are no noxious reptiles : bea- 
ver, deer, and elk are plentiful ; and when, in the course of time, 
the improvements of scientific cultivation extend to the Colum- 
bia, the country about the Wallamat will be rendered one of the 

* A few years since the tobacco plant was discovered in the Wallamat. 
The samples sent home are, I understand, of an excellent description. 



WARFARE TEMPERATURE. 227 

most delightful districts to the westward of the Rocky Moun- 
tains. We know little of the Coweliskee. It enters the Co- 
lumbia about half a day's march below the Wallamat from the 
northward : its banks are high, and thickly wooded, and the 
current much interrupted by rapids. Our traders, owing to the 
difficulty of the navigation, did not ascend it more than thirty 
miles. The tribe who inhabit its banks are called the Skilloota. 
They are friendly, and differ little from the lower Indians. 



CHAPTER XXII. 



Description of climate, soil, &o. above the rapids — Sketch of various tribes — 
The Chohoptins — Yackamans — Oakinagans — Sinapoils — Spokans — Anec- 
dote — Pointed-hearts — Cause of war — Cootonais — Kettle Indians — Kam- 
loops, &c. 

I have already alluded so often to the natives about the first 
rapids, and the great falls, that I may here pass them over with 
a few words explanatory of the causes that induced them to 
commit so many acts of hostility. In their various contests with 
the tribes below the former, and above the latter, they were gen- 
erally the greatest sufferers, owing to the fire-arms which those 
opposed to them obtained from us in exchange for their furs, 
horses, &c. 

There are no animals of the fur kind in the neighbourhood of 
the falls, and scarcely any about the rapids :* there is therefore 
nothing to induce us to establish a trading post at either place ; and 
as the natives are aware of this, and of their consequent inability 
to procure fire-arms, &c. they, like the Black-feet, identify us 
with their old enemies, and allow no opportunity to escape of 
attacking and robbing us. A small party, unencumbered by mer- 
chandise, may pass in safety ; otherwise, as has been already seen, 
it is a hazardous experiment. 

From the falls to the lands of the Spokans the climate is 
remarkably healthy ; in summer, excessively hot ; in winter, 
intensely cold ; but subject during these seasons to little varia- 
tion. A cloud is seldom seen ; and during the various journeys 
I have made up and down the Columbia, I did not witness in 
the above space ten rainy days. 

* The animals which Lewis and Clarke saw at this place, and which they 
called sea-otters, are seals. We have killed them as high up as the Dalle* 
below the falls. 



228 NATURAL PRODUCTIONS — NATIVE ANIMALS. 

The soil is unproductive, and is chiefly a light yellowish sandy 
clay. The plains are covered with a short kind of grass, mixed 
with prickly pears, wormwood, and tufts of long coarse grass 
from three to four feet high. Patches of clover are here and 
there visible, and in their vicinity the chappallel, and the camas 
or quamash roots, mentioned by Lewis and Clarke, are found. 
Wild onions grow in considerable quantities along the banks of 
the river above the falls. They are small ; and from March to 
May their flavour is excellent ; but after the latter month they 
lose their relish, and become dry and hard. 

Cotton-wood, small willow, sumac, furze, and sarsaparilla, are 
also found occasionally on the sides of the Columbia ; but from 
the falls, until we approach Spokan River, none of the larger 
trees are visible. Throughout this distance (about five hundred 
miles) our only fuel was derived from the timber drifted down 
by the spring freshes from the upper parts of the Columbia, and 
which in some particular bends of the river accumulates in great 
quantities. In other places, however, it is very scarce ; and 
when we could not purchase drift-wood from the Indians, we 
were often obliged to encamp without any fire. 

The principal animals are horses, small deer, prairie wolves, 
red foxes, badgers, polecats, hares, and dogs. Otters are some- 
times seen, but the great staple animal, the beaver, is a stranger 
to this district. The Indians allege that buffaloes were formerly 
numerous about the plains, and assexLJjiat remains of these ani- 
mals are still found. Between Lewis River and Spokan House 
we saw many bleached antlers of elk, together with the large 
curved horns of the sheep which are now found in the vicinity 
of the Rocky Mountains. These animals have long since fled 
from the plains. None of the present race of Indians have seen 
any of them, and are unable to account for their disappearance. 
We were equally at a loss to divine the cause ; and whether the 
annual burning of the grass by the natives in hunting the deer 
had any influence in driving them away, I shall leave to the 
curious in animal emigration to determine. 

No rattlesnakes are seen below the falls. A short distance 
above them these reptiles make their first appearance, and are 
numerous as far as the Chaudiere falls, a couple of days' march 
above which they totally disappear. There is in some places a 
small black snake, the bite of which causes death much quicker 
than that of the rattlesnake. An old Indian near Oakinagan 
told me that a child of his, a girl about five years old, one day 
looking for blue-berries with other children, was bitten by a very 
small black snake, and died in about an hour afterward. There 
are numbers of dark-brown, green, and garter snakes, but they 
are perfectly innocuous. 



PERPETUAL WARFARE — CLOTHING. 229 

I have already spoken of the Wallah Wallahs, and of their 
friendly disposition. With the exception of the attack in the 
autumn of 1814, they never manifested any hostility to our peo- 
ple ; and we had reason to know the part they took in that trans- 
action was compulsory. The entrance of their river is in lat. 
48° 1'. There is scarcely any beaver on their lands ; but deer, 
wild fowl, and roots, are obtained in plenty, and with the salmon, 
constitute their principal food. They are a well-formed race, 
cleanly in their persons, good hunters, and excellent horsemen. 
The Chohoptins, or Nez-Perces, differ little from them in their 
language, customs, or mode of living. The productions of their 
lands are nearly similar ; and they have immense bands of wild 
and tame horses. They reside principally on the banks of Lewis 
River, and are a numerous and powerful tribe. They and the 
Wallah Wallahs are constantly at war with the Shoshones, or 
Snake Indians, who inhabit the great plains to the southward. 
The only cause assigned by the Wallah Wallahs for this war is, 
that the Snakes interdict them from hunting the black-tailed 
deer, which are numerous on their lands, and in retaliation they 
oppose the latter in their endeavours to catch salmon in the Co- 
lumbia. They allege that this opposition would cease if the 
Shoshones abandoned their claim to the exclusive right of hunt- 
ing the black-tailed deer. As this is a privilege, however, which 
the latter are not willing to concede, their warfare may be 
interminable. 

The Yackamans are a numerous tribe, who inhabit the lands 
on the northern banks of the Columbia, from its junction above 
Lewis River until some distance above a river which flows from 
the northward, and is called after the name of the tribe. They 
are on friendly terms with the Chohoptins and Wallah Wallahs, 
and make common cause with them against the Shoshones. 

From the falls to this place there is little variation in the dress 
of the natives. The men wear leathern shirts and gaiters, and 
the women are covered with shifts of the same material ; but a 
short distance above the Yackaman river, and from thence to 
Oakinagan, we met during the fishing season some straggling 
bands, wretchedly poor, and nearly naked. The men are 
without any garments. The women wear a leathern belt round 
their waist, from which a narrow slip passes from the front, and 
is secured behind, something in the manner of the maro worn by 
the male natives of the Sandwich Islands. The rest of their 
persons is quite naked ; and their appearance, particularly that 
of their old women, is extremely disgusting. They have few 
horses ; and other animals are scarce on their land. 

Continuing our course upwards, we arrive among the Oakin- 
agans, where decency in covering again appears. Of this tribe 



230 THE SINAPOILS — THE SPOKANS. 

I have already spoken sufficiently ; and shall therefore merely 
remark, that although far from cleanly in their lodges, they keep 
their persons always well covered. The latitude of Oakinagan 
is 48° 6' north, and the longitude about 117° west. 

The next tribe we meet are the Sinapoils, who occupy a dis- 
trict on the northern banks of the Columbia, between the Spo- 
kan and Oakinagan rivers. They subsist principally on salmon 
and cammas, and sometimes small deer. Beaver is scarce ; and 
they are consequently poorer than the neighbouring tribes, on 
whose lands that valuable animal abounds. They are dirty and 
slothful, and, from their habits of dishonesty, are regarded by 
the other natives with the utmost contempt. From the pov- 
erty of their territory no trading post has been hitherto es- 
tablished among them. This circumstance has indisposed them 
towards the white men, and they seized every opportunity of 
committing depredations on our people. They are, however, 
poor in arms, and poorer in spirit; and their aggressions were 
chiefly confined to petty pilfering and horse-stealing. 

The Sinapoils are much addicted to gambling, and its con- 
comitant vice, quarrelling. We could never rightly ascertain 
whether they had a chief; but from their insubordination, local 
feuds, and love of thieving, we were inclined to doubt the ex- 
istence of any controlling authority. They never committed 
any open act of hostility on us ; but this we had good reason to 
know was occasioned by the manner in which they were kept 
in check by the friendly tribes of Spokan, Oakinagan, and Kam- 
loops ; any of whom would not only willingly take our part, but 
would punish the assailants with greater severity than we might 
be inclined to use if left to our own discretion. 

In justice, however, to this unfortunate race, it must be borne 
in mind that they are tantalized by seeing in the possession of 
their neighbours the Oakinagans and Spokans various articles 
which they obtain in exchange for the productions of their 
more favoured lands ; and the Sinapoils therefore cannot resist 
the temptation, when opportunity offers, to steal from the traders 
what the poverty of their country prevents them from obtaining 
honestly. 

About forty-five miles above the Sinapoil village, Spokan 
river joins the Columbia from the eastward. At Oakinagan the 
plains begin to disappear ; and from thence to the Sinapoil lands 
high naked bluffs predominate. A short distance above the 
latter place some straggling pines become visible, which increase 
thence upwards in size and quantity. The Spokans have a 
small village at the entrance of their river, but their chief and 
permanent place of residence is about forty miles higher up, 
where we built our fort, and where the Pointed-heart River 



THE SPOKANS. 231 

joins the Spokan from the south-east. Their lands present a 
pleasing variety of well-wooded hills, open prairies, and rich flat 
bottoms, which produce abundance of nutritive roots and wild 
fruit. Beaver, deer, and various kinds of wild fowl, &c. are 
occasionally plentiful, while their river supplies them with excel- 
lent salmon, trout, and carp. Yet, notwithstanding these ad- 
vantages, such is their improvidence, that they are often reduced 
to starvation. In times of scarcity they collect a quantity of 
pine-moss, which they boil, and form into a kind of black cake 
about half an inch thick. It is a horrible preparation, and has 
a bitter saponaceous taste. 

The Spokans are an honest friendly tribe. They are good 
hunters, but somewhat indolent, fond of gambling, despotic 
husbands, and indulgent fathers. Their women are great slaves, 
and most submissive to marital authority. They did not exhibit 
the same indifference to the superior comforts of a white man's 
wife as that displayed by the Flat-head women, and some of 
them consequently became partners of the voyageurs. They 
made excellent wives, and in general conducted themselves with 
propriety. Although the Spokan men are extremely jealous, 
and punish with severity any infidelity on the part of their 
wives, they are themselves not over-scrupulous in their own 
conduct. We learned from the wives of the voyageurs that 
female violation is by no means uncommon among them. The 
frequent journeys which the women, in the execution of their 
laborious duties, are obliged to make alone into the woods in 
search of fuel, roots, &c. afford great facility to the commission 
of this offence ; and the ravisher depends on impunity from the 
well-known fear of the woman to tell her husband, who might 
either abandon her, or, by taking the offender's life, embroil 
their respective families in a sanguinary contest. 

Slavish and submissive as the Spoken women are, they do 
not tamely submit to the occasional lapses of their husbands ; 
an instance of which occurred in the summer of 1815, while I 
was at Spokan House. One of the tribe named Singhelsass- 
coghaght, (or the horse), from his great swiftness and dexterity in 
riding, was a tall and rather handsome Indian. He was re- 
markable for his gallantries, and it was whispered among the 
females that he never spared a woman he caught unprotected in 
the woods. His wife had for some time suspected him of car- 
rying on an intrigue, and being constantly on the watch, she 
soon discovered that her suspicions were not groundless. The 
very night of the discovery, while he was in a profound sleep, 
she inflicted on him a dreadful injury, of which he died before 
morning. On the intelligence becoming public, a crowd of his 
relations assembled round the lodge, to whom she openly avowed 



THE POINTED-HEARTS. 

herself as the author of his death, stating at the same time her 
reasons for committing the dreadful act; but she had scarcely 
finished when an arrow from her husband's brother quivered in 
her heart. Her relations instantly collected. Guns, arrows, 
and tomahawks were in immediate requisition, and before we 
could arrive to check the bloody conflict, two men and two 
women had fallen victims. Our presence restored tranquillity ; 
and as the sufferers on each side were equally divided, we ex- 
perienced no great difficulty in bringing about a reconciliation, 
and each party rested satisfied with its respective loss. 

The Pointed-hearts, or, as the Canadians call them, les Cceurs 
d'Alenes (Hearts of Awls), are a small tribe inhabiting the 
shores of a lake about fifty miles to the eastward of Spokan 
House. Their country is tolerably well stocked with beaver, 
deer, wild-fowl, &c. ; and its vegetable productions are similar 
to those of Spokan. Some of this tribe occasionally visited our 
fort at the latter place with furs to barter, and we made a few 
excursions to their lands. We found them uniformly honest in 
their traffic ; but they did not evince the same warmth of friend- 
ship for us as the Spokans, and expressed no desire for the estab- 
lishment of a trading post among them. They are in many 
respects more savage than their neighbours, and I have seen 
some of them often eat deer and other meat raw. They are 
also more unfeeling husbands, and frequently beat their wives 
in a cruel manner. 

About twenty years before our arrival, the Spokans and 
Pointed-hearts were at war, caused by a kind of Trojan origin. 
A party of the former had been on a hunting visit to the lands 
of the latter, and were hospitably received. One day a young 
Spokan discovered the wife of a Pointed-heart alone, some dis- 
tance from the village, and violated her. Although she might 
have borne this in silence from one of her own tribe, she was 
not equally forbearing with regard to a stranger, and immediately 
informed her husband of the outrage. He lost no time in seek- 
ing revenge, and shot the Spokan as he entered the village. 
The others fled to their own lands, and prepared for war. A 
succession of sanguinary conflicts followed, in the course of 
which the greatest warriors of both sides were nearly destroyed, 
at the end of a year, however, hostilities ceased ; since which 
period they have been at peace. The two nations now inter- 
marry, and appear to be on the best terms of friendship. 

Leaving the Pointed-hearts, we cross the Fat-head river, and 
come to the Cootonais, who inhabit a small and beautiful district 
near the foot of the Rocky Mountains, and about sixty miles to 
the north-east of the Flat-head lands. It is nearly surrounded 
by a chain of lofty and thickly-wooded mountains, and is con- 



TnE cootonais. 233 

sequently very difficult of access. Beaver is plentiful in this 
country, and of a superior description. Otters, martens, and 
bears are also found, with excellent deer and mountain sheep.* 

The Cootonais are the remnant of a once brave and powerful 
tribe, who, like the Flat-heads, were perpetually engaged in war 
with the Black-feet for the right of hunting on the buffalo 
grounds. Previous to our arrival among them they entertained 
the most deadly hatred against white men, to whom they attributed 
all their misfortunes, owing to the assistance which their enemies 
received in arms and ammunition from the North-west Com- 
pany's people to the eastward of the mountains. 

They appeared to be perfectly aware that beaver was the 
only object that induced us to visit their country ; and they ac- 
cordingly exerted themselves to procure it, not, as some of them 
candidly declared, for our interest, but for the purpose of obtain- 
ing fire-arms, spears, &c. to enable them to meet their old ene- 
mies the Black-feet on more equal terms. 

They are a very peculiar tribe. Their language bears no 
affinity whatever to that of any of the western nations. It is 
infinitely softer and more free from those unpronounceable gut- 
turals so common among the lower tribes. As with the Flat- 
heads, buffalo is the cause of all their misfortunes ; for although, 
as 1 have before mentioned, their lands abound in plenty of other 
animals, their hereditary attachment to the buffalo is so uncon- 
querable, that it drives them every year to the plains, where they 
come in contact with the Black-feet. In these contests they are 
generally victors, but they always return with diminished num- 
bers. They have latterly entered into a kind of alliance, offen- 
sive and defensive, with the Flat-heads, by which they have 
agreed that neither party shall make peace with the Black-feet 
until the latter shall permit them to hunt without molestation on 
the buffalo plains. As this is a concession not likely to be 
granted, it is probable that the war will terminate only with the 
extermination of one or other of the parties. 

The Cootonais are by no means so warm-hearted towards 
the whites as their neighbours the Flat-heads ; but Mr. Montour, 
who spent some years among them, states, that they are strictly 
honest in all their dealings, and remarkable for their adherence 
to truth ; a virtue, by-the-bye, of which few Indians can boast. 

Polygamy is unknown among them ; and he never knew an 
instance wherein any of their women admitted overtures of an 
improper nature. They appear to be jealous of white men, 
and studiously conceal their females whenever any of the traders 
approach their lodges. 

* The tobacco plant has lately been discovered in this district. 

Ff 



234 THE CHATJDIERES — THE KAMLOOPS. 

A Cootonais seldom smiles. He thinks that sooner or later 
he is doomed to fall in the field of battle ; and this certainty of 
death, joined to the number of relatives annually killed in their 
constant warfare, imparts to his features a settled melancholy. 

The greatest cleanliness and neatness are observable about 
their persons and lodges. They are rather handsome, above the 
middle size, and, compared with other tribes, remarkably fair. 
On the whole, we may say of this interesting people, that, in 
their intercourse with white men they are rather haughty and 
reserved ; in conversation, candid ; in trade, honest ; brave in 
battle ; and devotedly attached to each other and their country. 
The trading post established among the Cootonais is situated in 
about 49° 30' north latitude, and 1 15° west longitude. 

The Chaudieres or Kettle Indians, and the small band under 
the hermaphrodite chief, have already been mentioned together 
with the productions of their respective lands. The Chaudiere 
fall is situated in 48° 37' north latitude, and the longitude, by 
chronometer, is about 1 16° west. 

A small tribe exists on the upper lakes of the Columbia, which 
wanders about in straggling parties of three, four, or five each. 
They appear to be timid in approaching white people, but are 
not unfriendly. They have no horses, are poor hunters, go 
nearly naked, and subsist principally on fish. 

About one hundred and fifty miles to the north-west of Oakin- 
agan, in the direction of Thompson's River, the Company has a 
post established among a tribe called the Kamloops, to which 
there is a communication by land, or by means of the Oakinagan 
river and lake. Beaver is rather plentiful in this quarter ; and, 
with salmon, constitutes their chief riches. They have few 
horses, and deer are scarce on their lands. Messrs. La Rocque 
and M'Donald, who wintered among them, state that the Kam- 
loops are less friendly than any tribe among whom we had posts 
established. They are addicted to thieving and quarrelling, 
wear little covering, and are extremely dirty in their persons. 
Like other tribes, they are subject to occasional famine, owing 
to their neglecting to provide in the fishing season a sufficiency 
of salmon for the periods of scarcity. 

Beyond Kamloops to the northward the department of New 
Caledonia commences, inhabited by a tribe called the Carriers ; 
of whom I have given a sketch in a letter from Mr. John 
Stewart. A more comprehensive description of their country, 
its productions, &c, will be found in the Appendix. 

From the upper parts of the Columbia and its subordinate 
streams, to the lower falls, the natives inter their dead in a 
similar manner to that which I have described among the 
Spokans. From the falls to the lower rapids the bodies of the 



INTOXICATION — TREATMENT OF FEMALES. 235 

deceased are enveloped in mats and skins, and placed in ceme- 
teries in a retired situation ; one of which is described in the 
early part of this volume. Thence to the mouth of the river 
the dead are placed in canoes in the manner mentioned in my 
sketch of the Chinooks. 

They all believe in a future state of rewards and punish- 
ments. Their moral code differs but little from that of the Flat- 
heads. The articles of food, clothing, &c, most in use among 
them while living, they hope also to enjoy in the abodes of 
future happiness ; while, in their place of punishment, cold, hun- 
ger, and thirst, await the bad people. 

There is one item in the Oakinagan creed relative to future 
torments, which is, I imagine, peculiar to that tribe. An evil 
spirit, with face, arms, and legs like a man, and a long tail and 
ears like a horse, jumps about from tree to tree with a stick in 
his hand, with which he unmercifully belabours all the con- 
demned, who are prevented by the agility of his movements 
from touching him. This is an additional punishment to what 
all other tribes believe their wicked will have to suffer. 

We never brought ardent spirits among them for the purposes 
of barter, and therefore cannot say how far an abundance of it 
would have seduced them to its intemperate use ; but the few 
whom we knew to have tasted any did not seem to relish it, 
except on one occasion that we gave a few glasses to old Illim- 
spokanee, the chief of the Spokans. He staggered home in a 
state of intoxication, and in a couple of days returned and 
begged for a little more of the " strong water" (rum) ; but as 
we did not wish to encourage its consumption by the Indians, 
and were apprehensive of the evil effects which his example 
might produce, we refused to give him any more, alleging that 
our stock was exhausted. 

The treatment of the women differs materially among the 
various tribes. Where food is principally obtained by the exer- 
tions of the men (as among the Cootonais, Flat-heads, Spokans, 
<fcc.) the women are condemned to great drudgery. When a 
hunter kills a deer, he merely cuts out the tongue, or takes 
enough for a meal, and on returning to his lodge despatches his 
wife for the body. She is guided to the spot by notches which 
he has made in the trees. She also collects fire-wood, carries 
water, cooks, makes and cleans his shirts, prepares the meat and 
fish for curing, &c. They possess little or no influence, and, 
notwithstanding their laborious duties, seem perfectly contented. 
Among the lower tribes, however, where their exertions in col- 
lecting the Wappitoo roots contribute to the general support, 
they assume an air of liberty and independence quite unknown 



236 DEPARTURE FROM FORT GEORGE. 

among the upper natives ; and in all eases of importance the 
elderly women equally with the men are consulted. 

From the foregoing brief sketch it will be seen that those 
qualities which may be ranked among the virtues, are more 
conspicuous among the warlike tribes of the Cootonais and Flat- 
heads than among those lower down. With the exception of 
slips of red cloth, or a few feathers adorning their heads, they 
enter the field of battle perfectly naked, 

Pride in their port, defiance in their eye. 

Their bravery is pre-eminent : — a love of truth they think neces- 
sary to a warrior's character. They are too proud to be dis- 
honest, too candid to be cunning. Their many avocations leave 
them no leisure for gambling ; and their strict subordination, 
joined to the necessity of exerting all their energies against the 
common enemy, prevents them from quarrelling. 

Here I may close my account of the occurrences, &c. which 
came under my observation during my residence on the Colum- 
bia and its tributary streams. A few characteristic sketches of 
the Canadians, half-breeds, Iroquois, &c. will appear in the Ap- 
pendix ; together with an interesting description of New Cale- 
donia, and a statement of various circumstances which occurred 
subsequent to my quitting the Indian country, and the insertion 
of which here would, I imagined, have broken in on the chro- 
nological order of my narrative. 

Towards the latter end of March, 1817, the other wintering 
parties joined us at Oakinagan, from whence we all proceeded 
to Fort George, which we reached on the 3d of April. 



CHAPTER XIX. 



Ascent of the Columbia— Its lakes — Dangerous navigation — High water — 
Arrive at the mountains — Melancholy detail of the death of six of the party. 

Wednesday, April 16th, 1817. At one p. m. on this day 
we took our departure from Fort George under a salute of 
seven guns. Our party consisted of eighty-six souls, and was 
perhaps the largest and most mixed that ever ascended the Co- 
lumbia. In it were five Scotchmen, two English, and one 
Irish ; thirty-six Canadians, twenty Iroquois Indians, two Nipis- 
ings, one Cree, and three half-breeds ; nine natives of the Sand- 
wich Islands ; with one boy, a servant, two women, and two 



ASCENT OP TIIE COLUMBIA ENCAMPMENT. 237 

children. The whole embarked in two barges and nine canoes 
(two of which were of bark), each containing on an average 
twenty-two packages, each weighing ninety pounds. 

Owing to a strong head-breeze, we were unable to double 
Tongue Point, on the west side of which we were obliged to 
encamp in view of the fort. We remained here on the 17th 
and 18th, during which days it blew a perfect hurricane from 
the eastward, accompanied by heavy showers. Our tents were 
repeatedly blown down ; and we might have suffered severely 
from the incessant rain, had not the governor of Fort George 
considerately despatched to us an additional quantity of port 
and rum, with which we succeeded in neutralizing the over- 
powering humidity of the atmosphere. 

The wind having moderated on the morning of the 19th, we 
resumed our voyage after breakfast. We had occasional 
showers during the day, and passed some scattered lodges of 
natives, from whom we purchased a quantity of excellent stur- 
geon. Encamped a little after five o'clock on Oak Point. 

We embarked at daybreak on the 20th, with calm weather : 
purchased a quantity of sturgeon. Towards evening a smart 
breeze sprung up in our favour, which enabled us to hoist sail ; 
and we continued on in fine style until five, when we encamped 
at the village of Kyeassino, a friendly chief, a short distance 
below the mouth of the Multnomah or Wallamat. We had a 
few slight showers during the day. 

On the 21st we arose with the dawn, and embarked. Some 
of the canoes having struck on sunken trees, we were obliged 
to put ashore for a couple of hours to repair the damage and 
dry the goods. We encamped at dusk about five miles above 
ha Prairie du The, so called by the Canadians from a species 
of mint which grows in it, and which they are fond of using as 
a substitute for tea. Passed a few lodges of Indians, but did 
not stop. Weather same as yesterday. 

The morning of the 22d was cloudy and chilly, with a slight 
head-breeze, which lasted nearly the entire day. We however 
made good way ; and at three p. m. arrived at the foot of the 
rapids. Made two discharges, and passed them sans accident. 
Encamped at sunset at the west end of the portage. As this 
was the scene of several attacks, we formed a strong barricade 
of canoes and goods about the encampment, and divided the 
party into three watches. Several of the natives visited us. 
The men were unarmed and well-behaved ; and the females 
appeared solicitous to bestow their favours on some of our peo- 
ple. They appeared somewhat surprised and offended to find 
that love had no influence in our camp ; and left us late in the 
evening, evidently chagrined at their reception. 



238 THE PORTAGE. 

The night passed over quietly; and we commenced the portage 
at daybreak, on the morning of the 24th, with cool calm weather. 
The Indians behaved very friendly, and offered their services to 
assist in carrying the goods. We did not think it prudent to 
refuse them, and at half-past ten the portage was cleared. We 
breakfasted at the upper end, and purchased a few salmon from 
the natives, to whom we gave the usual present of tobacco ; 
after which we proceeded on. The weather during the day was 
extremely warm for the season. Put ashore once to repair the 
canoes, and encamped late in the evening at the point of the 
Mangy Dog. 

The weather continuing calm, we embarked at half-past one 
on the morning of the 24th ; but owing to the darkness, several 
of our canoes struck on sunken rocks and trees, which compel- 
led us to put ashore at daylight to repair the damage. At nine 
we proceeded on, and doubled Cape Horn in calm weather ; a 
circumstance of very rare occurrence in voyages on the 
Columbia. 

At three p. m. arrived at the Dalles (narrows), and imme- 
diately began the portage, but were only enabled to get half 
through it, when we encamped. The young chief, and the old 
chieftainess, accompanied by several Indians, paid us a visit. 
They were unarmed, and conducted themselves peaceably. 

We finished the portage at ten o'clock on the morning of the 
25th, and breakfasted before embarking ; after which we contin- 
ued on, with a strong breeze in our favour. Passed several dan- 
gerous points ; and with much difficulty, owing to the low state 
of the water, we succeeded in making our way without unload- 
ing, through the narrow channel to the right of the small Dalles. 
At four p. m. we encamped at the foot of the Great Falls on the 
south side. A few Indians crossed over to our encampment ; but 
the weather being wet and stormy, they shortly after returned. 

26th. It blew a strong gale the greater part of last night ; 
but moderated at daybreak, when we crossed to the north side, 
and commenced the portage, which we finished in two pauses. 
We purchased twenty dogs for the kettle. None of the natives 
who came to us were armed, and we never observed them so 
tranquil. Our number, however, was sufficient to ensure us a 
respectful reception among any single tribe of the Columbia. 
Mr. Mackenzie wrote a letter here to Fort George, which he 
intrusted to one of the chiefs, who promised to have it safely 
conveyed to its destination. On quitting this place we dis- 
tributed a quantity of leaf-tobacco among the Indians, who 
crowded round the canoes, eagerly expecting this last act of our 
friendship. It was past eleven when we embarked. We had 



EXPEDITION CONTINUED. 239 

a strong breeze in our favour all day, and passed several bad 
rapids. Encamped late, a short distance above John Day's 
River ; so called from its having been the place at which that 
hunter was attacked. 

We had a strong aft breeze during the greater part of the 27th, 
which enabled us to go a la voile. Purchased seven horses, mod- 
erately cheap, from a party of Shyatogoes and Wallah Wallahs, 
who followed us the greater part of the day, and encamped with 
us at night. 

28th. Embarked at the usual hour with a slight aft wind : 
about noon, it increased to a double-reefed topsail gale, which 
again fell away at four to a gentle breeze. Saw very few 
Indians, and encamped at six p. m. a little below the Grand Rapid, 
on the south side. The weather on the 29th was clear, and the 
wind favourable. We passed the Grand Rapid at two p. m. 
without injuring a canoe, and had a fine breeze all the afternoon. 
Shortly after sunset we made our beds a little above the Wal- 
lah Wallah River. Tom Tappam the chief, and several of his 
tribe, visited us, and promised to trade some horses. 

We slept until nine on the morning of the 30th, and began 
redividing and redistributing the men and baggage for Mr. 
Mackenzie's tour to the Shoshone Indians. We purchased 
nine horses from Tom Tappam, and gave for each goods to the 
value of seven beaver skins, by the north-west tariff. The 
weather during the day was rather warm and boisterous. 

Thursday, 1st of May. Left the Wallah Wallahs after break- 
fast, with a slight breeze. Between twelve and one we put 
ashore at the mouth of Lewis River, where we took an early 
dinner : after which Mr. Mackenzie, with twenty-two men and 
three canoes, left us under a salute of three cheers. We con- 
tinued on, up the Columbia, and encamped after sunset two 
miles above the Yackaman River. Passed a few Indians, from 
whom we traded one horse. It blew pretty fresh during the 
day. 

Nothing particular occurred on the 2d. The weather was 
warm, and we encamped near the beginning of the marl-banks, 
called by the Canadians, from their colour, les Terres Jaunes. 

The 3d was equally devoid of interest. The wep.ther was 
rather windy ; and we encamped at the foot of the Priest's 
Rapid. We saw none of the natives for the last two days. 

After breakfast on the morning of the 4th, the party who 
were to cross the Rocky Mountains bid adieu to the loaded canoes 
and the gentlemen of the Columbia. It consisted of Messrs. 
Bethune, M'Dougal, Joseph M'Gillivray, Alexander M'Tavish, 
and myself; with sixteen men, Holmes the tailor, and the boy 



240 RESCUE FROM DROWNING — HIGH FLOODS. 

Perrault, in two canoes. Encamped about three leagues below 
Pacquin's Rapid. Fine weather all day. 

5th. Breakfasted at the above rapid ; at which we were 
constrained to unload part of the lading, and about noon arrived 
at the portage of the Rocky Island Rapid. 

While Gingras and Landreville were getting one of the canoes 
up the rapid, the latter made a false stroke of his pole, by which 
it missed bottom, and the canoe was upset in the middle of the 
waves. Gingras held fast by the bars until it was drawn into 
an eddy, when he found bottom, and got ashore. In the mean 
time eight men leaped into the other canoe, and instantly pushed 
to the assistance of Landreville, who was for a couple of minutes 
invisible ; when at length, appearing above the surface of the 
water, they seized him by the hair, and drew him on board 
nearly lifeless. All our baggage was subsequently picked up ; 
and we remained here the remainder of the day to dry it and 
repair the canoes. A few poor Indians visited us. They had 
no provisions to trade, and appeared to be more in want of food 
and clothing than any I had ever seen. One old woman in par- 
ticular was completely naked, and presented a most disgusting 
appearance. 

Nothing of consequence occurred on the 6th or 7th ; and 
about sunset on the 8th, we reached Oakinagan Fort, where we 
passed the night. 

At four p. m. we bid adieu to Oakinagan, having previously 
killed two horses, the flesh of which we took with us. En- 
camped a short distance above the road leading to Spokan 
House. The weather, for the last few days, was remarkably 
mild. It changed, however, on the 10th ; on which day we had 
incessant rain. We encamped three leagues above la Rapide 
d'lgnace. 

On Sunday the 11th we embarked at daybreak. The late 
rain gave the country a most refreshing appearance : and along 
the banks of the river we pulled a quantity of small wild onions, 
which grew in great abundance, both among the rocks and in 
the low bottoms. Encamped five miles below the entrance of 
Sinapoil River, a small stream which falls into the Columbia 
from the north. Weather rather sultry. 

The men had hard work on the 12th. Owing to the sudden 
rise of the water, caused by the late rain and melting of the 
snows, we were obliged to disembark several times during the 
day, to allow the canoes to be dragged up with lines. Encamped 
opposite the entrance to Spokan River. The country from Oak- 
inagan to this place is quite devoid of wood, but the banks of 
the river are bold, and in many places rocky. This naturally 









nioii floods. 241 

contracts the river into a more narrow compass, and makes the 
current much more difficult to stem. 

We began, the morning of the 13th, by making a portage 
above our encampment ; after which we breakfasted, and pur- 
sued our route. We had a strong smooth current all day, and 
encamped on the south side a few leagues below the Grand 
Rapid. From Spokan River upwards, the banks of the Colum- 
bia are rather thickly wooded, and present a very picturesque 
appearance. There are also several rich bottoms of red and 
white clover, and some aromatic herbs, 

Wasting their sweetness on the desert air. 

Met a couple of families of poor beggarly Indians. Very sultry 
weather all day. 

14th. On arriving at the Grand Rapid we were forced to 
carry the canoes, as well as the baggage, to the upper end. 
This occupied the greater portion of the day, and we did not 
finish it before three r. m. At four we arrived at the Great 
Kettle Falls, the portage of which we completed at sunset. 
Encamped at the upper end of the falls ; shortly after which an 
Indian arrived from Spokan House with letters from Mr. 
M'Donald t which contained no intelligence of interest. 

Embarked at the usual hour, on the 15th, and made pretty 
good way until one p. m., when we arrived at a particular part 
of the river called the First Dalles, or narrows, above the 
Kettle Falls, where the channel is confined between a range of 
high and dangerous rocks, nearly a mile in extent ; the whole of 
which distance the men were obliged to carry the canoes and 
baggage. Encamped at la Rivitre de Belters, so called from 
some mountain sheep having been killed near the spot by our 
hunters some years before. The Indians assert that no rattle- 
snakes are to be found on either bank of the Columbia above 
this river ; and all our men, who had been previously in the em- 
ployment of the Company, hunting in that part, fully corrobo- 
rated this statement. The Riviere de Beliers comes from the 
north-west. 

About seven o'clock on the morning of the 16th we passed 
the mouth of the Flat-head River, which falls into the Columbia 
over a foaming cascade, caused by a large collection of immense 
rocks, which choke up the entrance. During the day we passed 
a number of small rivers, which, owing to the melting of the 
snow, caused by the excessive heat, had been swollen into 
torrents. The force of the current rushing out from these 
rivers repeatedly drove the canoes back with great violence, 
and it required all the skill and strength of our men to pass 

Gg 



242 CAPTURE OF A BEAR. 

them. Encamped late, near M'Gillivray's River, a fine bold 
stream, which takes its rise in the Rocky Mountains, and run- 
ning in nearly a north-east direction, through the Cootonias 
lands, here joins the Columbia. A refreshing breeze from the 
north sprung up in the evening. The country on each side, 
from the Kettle Falls to this place, is thickly wooded, principally 
with pine, spruce, and small birch. The northern shore is 
rather low ; but the south side presents a bold rocky appear- 
ance. About an hour before we encamped we observed a 
large black bear in the act of swimming across the river, which 
Mr. M'Gillivray wounded. The enraged animal instantly 
changed its course downwards, and came in contact with our 
canoe, into which it attempted to get, by seizing the gunwale 
with its fore-paws. This nearly upset us ; but the foreman 
aimed a well-directed blow at his head with his pole, which com- 
pletely stunned it, and we succeeded in hauling it on board. It 
was in rather good condition, and proved a welcome and unex- 
pected treat. 

17th. Set off a little before sunrise ; and about an hour after- 
ward entered the first lake formed by the Columbia. It is 
between eleven and twelve leagues long, and about one and a 
half in breadth ; the current smooth and steady, and pretty free 
from snags or sunken trees. The shores are bold and well 
wooded with a variety of timber of fine size ; and in the dis- 
tance we first caught a view of the most western chain of the 
Rocky Mountains covered with snow. A head-wind, during 
the greater part of the day, considerably retarded our progress ; 
and we encamped late, near the upper end of the lake, where a 
few Indians visited us. They appeared to be very poor, and 
brought about a dozen beaver-skins to trade, which we told 
them we could not purchase, as we were obliged to cross the 
mountains ; but that our party, going downwards in the autumn, 
would stop a few days with them, and trade all the skins they 
had. They were rather disappointed ; but a little tobacco, 
and some trifling presents, sent them away in good humour. 

Shortly after, embarking on the morning of the 18th, we left 
the lake, and entered that part of the river called the Straits, 
which separates the upper from the lower lake. It is only 
a few miles in length, and quickly brought us to the upper lake, 
which is not so long as the first. The high hills in its immediate 
vicinity were covered with snow, the chilling influence of which 
we sensibly experienced by the cold blasts from shore. En- 
camped at sunset at the upper end of the lake, on a fine sandy 
beach. During the day we struck on two sandbanks, and 
were slightly injured by a sunken tree. Saw no Indians. 

lOtli. About two miles above our encampment of last night 



DIFFICULTIES IN NAVIGATION. 243 

the Columbia becomes very narrow, with steep and thickly 
wooded banks, covered with immense quantities of fallen trees. 
The current is very strong, and, owing to the great height of 
the water, the men at intervals had scarcely any beach on which 
to walk in dragging up the canoes. Our progress was conse- 
quently slow ; and we put ashore for the night about fifteen 
miles above the lake. 

At nine o'clock on the morning of the 20th we reached the 
Second Dalles, or narrows, which are formed by a contraction 
of the channel of the river into a very small compass. There 
are high and slippery rocks on each side, which makes it a work 
of great danger and difficulty to pass them. The baggage was 
all carried by the men, and the canoes were towed up with 
strong lines, after being in great danger of filling from the fright- 
ful whirlpools close along the shore. The weather became 
much cooler from the proximity of the mountains. Several 
patches of snow were observable on the beach during the day, 
and towards evening some rain fell. 

From dawn of day until noon on the 21st we did not make 
three miles, owing to the impetuosity of the current, the shel- 
ving banks, and the extreme weakness of our men, several of 
whom were knocked up. We were detained at one place up- 
wards of four hours to repair our shattered canoes, and en- 
camped about six o'clock on a low gravelly point. We had 
several smart showers during the afternoon. 

22d. About two p. m. arrived at a place called the Upper 
Dalles, where the river is again confined for a considerable dis- 
tance between a line of high slippery rocks. Got about half 
way through this channel, and stopped for the night in a small 
nook formed by the rocks, on which we lay scattered and ex- 
posed to severe rain during the night. 

We rose wet and unrefreshed on the morning of the 23d, 
and in five hours passed the Dalles, the upper part of which 
consists of a chain of whirlpools, which compelled us to carry 
both canoes and baggage some distance over the rocks ; in the 
execution of which duty, some of the men narrowly escaped 
with their lives. Those who carried our canoe, from mere ex- 
haustion fell several times, by which it was much damaged ; 
and we were detained until 3 p. H. to get it repaired. Encamped 
at dusk on a sandy beach, for which we had been some time on 
the look-out. The rain continued during the evening and the 
night to pour down in torrents. 

Our progress on the 24th was equally slow. The various 
tributary streams which we passed on this and the last two days, 
and which take their rise from the surrounding mountains, had 
by the recent rains been swollen into torrents, the waters of 



244 EXHAUSTED STATE OF THE MEN. 

which, as they rushed with headlong force into the Columbia, 
repeatedly drove us back with irresistible strength, and at times 
we were in danger of filling. On two occasions, where the 
opposite shore of the Columbia consisted of perpendicular rocks, 
we were obliged, after various fruitless attempts to pass the 
minor streams, to unload and carry the canoes and baggage some 
distance along the banks until we reached a smooth space of 
current, when we crossed, and by that means surmounted the 
difficulties of their respective embouchures. It rained on us 
all the afternoon. 

25th. Nothing of importance occurred on this day to vary 
the disagreeable tedium of our journey. The foreman, steers- 
man, and four of the middlemen of our canoe were quite knocked 
up, while those in the other canoe were comparatively strong 
and healthy : — indeed the distribution of the men was grossly 
partial, and was productive in the sequel of the most deplorable 
consequences. It rained hard all day ; and on retiring to rest 
we had not a dry article of covering about us. 

On the 2Gth we only made three miles, in the course of which 
our canoe filled in a dangerous rapid, and we were near perish- 
ing. We succeeded however in gaining a low stony island, on 
which there was no wood to light a fire : our pemmican was 
completely damaged by the late accident ; and, as a climax to 
our misery, it rained incessantly the whole day. 

The river here opened out to a considerable breadth, and in 
some places was very shallow. The Rocky Mountain portage 
at which we were to leave our canoes appeared in sight, and 
was not more than three miles distant. As we threw our jaded 
bodies on our stony couch this evening, we most truly experi- 
enced that 

Weariness can snore upon the flint, 

When restive sloth makes the down-pillow hard. 

We rose at the usual hour on the 27th, and at nine a. m. ar- 
rived at the entrance of Canoe River, where the portage com- 
mences, and with indescribable pleasure we bade a final adieu 
to our crazy battered canoe. Messrs. M'Dougall and Bethune 
had reached it the day before, and had almost despaired of 
seeing us. Finding so many of our men invalids, those gentle- 
men deemed it imprudent to bring them across the mountains, the 
fatigues of which they would not be able to encounter. Six 
Canadians, and Holmes the English tailor, were therefore sent 
back in the best canoe to Spokan House. Out of the seven 
men, two only were able to work ; but, as the current was in 
their favour, it was hoped they would arrive in three days at the 



DREADFUL DETAIL. 245 

Kettle Falls, from whence they could easily reach Spokan. As 
our stock of provisions was very scanty, we could only spare 
them enough for the above period. On separating from their 
comrades, some of them appeared dejected and melancholy, 
and foreboded that they would never see Canada again. Their 
prophecy, alas ! was but too true.* 

* I did not hear the fate of this unfortunate party until three years after- 
ward. The following is the melancholy detail. On leaving the Rocky 
Mountains, they drove rapidly down the current until they arrived at the Up- 
per Dalles or narrows, where they were obliged to disembark. A cod-line 
was made fast to the stern of the canoe, while two men preceded it along the 
banks with poles to keep it from striking against the rocks. It had not de- 
scended more than half the distance, when it was caught in a strong whirl- 
pool, and the line snapped. The canoe for a moment disappeared in the vor- 
tex ; on emerging from which, it was carried by the irresistible force of the 
current to the opposite side, and dashed to pieces against the rocks. They 
had not the prudence to take out either their blankets or small quantity of 
provisions, which were of course all lost. Here then the poor fellows found 
themselves deprived of all the necessaries of life, and at a period of the year 
in which it was impossible to procure any wild fruit or roots. To return to 
the mountains was impossible, and their only chance of preservation was to 
proceed downwards, and to keep as near the banks of the river as circum- 
stances would permit. The continual rising of the water had completely inun- 
dated the beach, in consequence of which, they were compelled to force their 
way through an almost impervious forest, the ground of which was covered 
with a strong growth of prickly underwood. Their only nourishment was 
water ; owing to which, and their weakness from fatigue and ill health, their 
progress was necessarily slow. On the third day poor Mac,on died, and his 
surviving comrades, though unconscious how soon they might be called on to 
follow him, determined to keep off the fatal moment as long as possible. They 
therefore divided his remains in equal parts between them, on which they 
subsisted for some days. From the swollen state of their feet their daily 
progress did not exceed two or three miles. Holmes, the tailor, shortly fol- 
lowed Macon, and they continued for some time longer to sustain life on his 
emaciated body. It would be a painful repetition to detail the individual death 
of each man. Suffice it to say that in a little time, of the seven men, two 
only, named La Pierre and Dubois, remained alive. La Pierre was subse- 
quently found on the borders of the upper lake of the Columbia by two Indians 
who were coasting it in a canoe. They took him on board, and brought him 
to the Kettle Falls, from whence he was conducted to Spokan House. 

He stated that, after the death of the fifth man of the party, Dubois and ho 
continued for some days at the spot where he had ended his sufferings, and on 
quitting it they loaded themselves with as much of his flesh as they could carry; 
that with this they succeeded in reaching the upper lake, round the shores 
of which they wandered for some time in vain in search of Indians ; that 
their horrid food at length became exhausted, and they were again reduced 
to the prospect of starvation : that on the second night after their last meal, 
he (La Pierre) observed something suspicious in the conduct of Dubois, 
which induced him to be on his guard ; and that shortly after they had lain 
down for the night, and while he feigned sleep he observed Dubois cautiously 
opening his clasp knife, with which he sprung on him, and inflicted on his 
hand the blow that was evidently intended for his neck. A silent and despe- 
rate conflict followed, in which, after severe struggling, La Pierre succeeded 
in wresting the knife from his antagonist, and having no other resource left, 
he was obliged in self-defence to cut Dubois's throat ; and that a few days after- 
ward he was discovered by the Indians as before mentioned. Thus far 



246 WILD AND IMPRESSIVE SCENERY. 



CHAPTER XXIV. 

Canoe Valley and River — appearance of mountains — M'Gillivray's Rock — 
Dangerous situation of party on a raft — Arrive at Rocky Mountain House 
— Volcanic appearances — Animals, &c. — Indian tradition respecting Mam- 
moth — Difference in size of trees. 

Our baggage and provisions were divided between the nine 
remaining men, who in consequence of the number we had sent 
back, were obliged to carry about ninety pounds weight each, 
besides their own kits, which in such cases are never taken into 
consideration. 

Canoe River, which here joins the Columbia, is one of its 
principal sources, and is situated in lat.'52° 7' 9" N. In the dry 
season, it is broad, but very shallow, and near its entrance spreads 
over several sandy shoals. 

On the morning of the 28th of May, at ten o'clock we set off 
on foot along the banks of Canoe River, which winds its way 
through a wide and cheerless valley. We had not proceeded 
far when we found it impossible, from the great rise of the 
water, to pass the ordinary fords. It appeared like a lake, and 
completely set at naught the topographical knowledge of our 
guide. This obliged us to strike into the woods, our progress 
through which was extremely fatiguing, and at three p. m. we 
bivouacked about two miles beyond a long woody point, which 
stretches some distance across the valley. The weather was 
cloudy all day, with slight showers, which, during the night, 
increased to heavy rain, from which we had no shelter. 

We rose early on the morning of the 29th of May, in no very 
enviable situation. A thick mist still enveloped us, and rendered 
the awful solitude of this gloomy valley peculiarly impressive. 
It appeared never to have been trodden by the foot of man, 
until the enterprising spirit of British commerce, after having 
forced its way over the everlasting snows of the Rocky Moun- 
tains, penetrated into the anti-social glen, and from thence en- 
tered the mighty waters of the Columbia. As the mists gradu- 

nothing at first appeared to impugn the veracity of his statement ; but some 
other natives subsequently found the remains of two of the party near those of 
Dubois, mangled in such a manner as to induce them to think that they had 
been murdered ; and as La Pierre's story was by no means consistent in many 
of its details, the proprietors judged it advisable to transmit him to Canada 
for trial. Only one Indian attended ; but as the testimony against him was 
merely circumstautial, and unsupported by corroborating evidence, he was 
acquitted. 



DANGEROUS FORD. 247 

ally ascended into the higher regions, we obtained a more 
distinct view of the surrounding scenery. On the northern side, 
tiers of mountains, thickly covered with large pine and cedar, 
towered to an immeasurable height ; while the southern pre- 
sented dark perpendicular rocks of immense altitude, partially 
covered with moss, stunted pine, &c, over which at intervals 
cascades of seven or eight hundred feet high forced a passage 
to swell the torrent below. The sun, except in the intervals be- 
tween the rocks, was invisible ; and with the exception of our 
own party, no trace of animated nature could be distinguished 
in this magnificent solitude. 

About eleven a. m. we passed a second woody point, which 
runs into the valley from the north side ; and at two p. m. stop- 
ped for the remainder of the day. The men were much fatigued 
from their heavy loads, and some of them were hardly able to 
proceed. 

We set off at daybreak on the 30th, sometimes skirting, and 
at others fording the river. At seven a. m. we arrived at a par- 
ticular part called the grande traverse, owing to its great depth 
and breadth. To cross this was a measure of much danger. 
We all advanced in line, the tallest and strongest mixed alter- 
nately with the lowest, each holding the other firmly by the 
hand. This arrangement was peculiarly necessary ; for during 
our progress several of the smaller men were swept off their 
legs by the force of the current, and would inevitably have per- 
ished, but for the support they derived from their stronger 
brethren. We effected the passage between eight and nine, 
when we were obliged to stop and dry our clothes, and break- 
fast. After this, which did not occupy much time, we proceeded 
on, and about noon encamped within a short distance of the 
grande cote, or principal hill which we have to ascend in passing 
from the Columbia. — Weather charming all day. 

Shortly after dawn on the morning of the 31st we commenced 
the steep ascent of the first great hill. At its base were cedar 
and pine trees of enormous magnitude ; but, in proportion as 
we ascended, they decreased in size, and at the summit of the 
hill their appearance was quite dwarfish. We completed the 
ascent in about four hours and a half, and did not find it so diffi- 
cult as we had anticipated. This however maybe attributed to 
our having commenced the task early in the morning. 

A short time before we reached the summit, and from thence 
to the level of the table land, our progress lay through a wilder- 
ness of deep snow, which we had to beat down to form a path- 
way for the loaded men. This work, owing to the holes into 
which several of the party occasionally fell, was both fatiguing 
and dangerous. 



248 MOUNTAINS AND GLACIERS. 

At one p. m. we arrived at two small lakes, between which we 
encamped. They are only a few hundred feet each in circumfer- 
ence, and the distance between them does not exceed twenty- 
five or thirty feet. They lie on the most level part of the height 
of land, and are situated between an immense cut of the Rocky 
Mountains. From them two rivers take their rise, which pursue 
different courses, and fall into separate oceans ; the first winds 
into the valley we had lately left, and, after joining the upper 
part of the Columbia, empties itself into the North Pacific ; 
while the other, called the Rocky Mountain River, a branch of 
the Athabasca, follows first an eastern and then a northern course, 
until it forms a junction with the Vnjiga or Peace River. This 
falls into Great Slave Lake, the waters of which are ultimately 
carried byM'Kenzie's River to the Arctic Ocean. 

The country round our encampment presented the wildest 
and most terrific appearance of desolation that can be well ima- 
gined. The sun shining on a range of stupendous glaciers, threw 
a chilling brightness over the chaotic mass of rocks, ice, and 
snow, by which we were surrounded. Close to our encamp- 
ment one gigantic mountain of a conical form towered majes- 
tically into the clouds far above the others,* while at intervals 
the interest of the scene was heightened by the rumbling of a 
descending avalanche ; which, after being detached from its bed 
of centuries, increased in bulk in its headlong career downwards, 
until it burst with a frightful crash, more resembling the explo- 
sion of a magazine than the dispersion of a mass of snow. 

One of our roughspun unsophisticated Canadians, after gazing 
upwards for some time in silent wonder, exclaimed with much 
vehemence, " I'll take my oath, my dear friends, that God Al- 
mighty never made such a place !" 

Sunday, June 1. Set off about an hour before daybreak in 
deep snow ; and at nine o'clock, having arrived at its termination, 
we stopped to breakfast. For the last few miles this lofty val- 
ley widens considerably, and permits the sun to act with greater 
effect, in consequence of which the snow quickly disappears be- 
neath its all-dissolving influence. At eleven a. m. we reached a 
charming spot of rich meadow ground called by our hunters Ven- 
campernent du fusil, in which we found five of the Company's 
horses quietly grazing. Their harness was placed in a conspi- 
cuous situation adjoining a large fire, the remains of which were 
burning at the period of our arrival. These horses had been 
sent to meet us from our establishment at the east end of the 
mountains, and, from the fresh traces about the fire, we judged 

* This is called M'Gillivray's Rock, in honour of the late Mr. Wm. M'Gil- 
livray, a principal director of the Company. 



RAFT CARRIED INTO THE RAPID. 249 

that the persons to whose care they had been intrusted had only 
left that morning. They proved an acceptable relief to our 
poor men, who quickly transferred to them their loads ; after 
which we resumed our journey with great spirits, and encamped 
at four p. m. on the banks of the mountain stream, which for the 
last few leagues begins to assume the appearance of an import- 
ant river. 

Took advantage of the refreshing coolness of the morning of 
the 2d, and advanced some miles before sunrise. Stopped 
twice during the day to refresh the horses, and at two p. m., 
after passing through a thick wood of small pine a few miles in 
length, we arrived on the banks of the Rocky Mountain river, at 
a particular spot called the Traverse du Trou, where it was ne- 
cessary for our party to cross. All hands immediately set about 
preparing a raft, which was quickly constructed. The river at 
the crossing-place was between three and four hundred yards 
wide, with a gentle current running smoothly about a quarter of 
a mile in length, when it is broken by a broad and rather shal- 
low rapid. The horses were first sent over, and gained the op- 
posite bank in safety. Four men then embarked on the raft 
with part of the baggage ; but owing to their having lost bottom 
too soon with their poles, the raft was carried in a few minutes 
into the rapid, where it became entangled among the rocks. 
The place was fortunately shallow, and they succeeded after 
some difficulty in gaining the shore. The raft was lost, and we 
were therefore obliged to construct another. I embarked on it 
in company with Messrs. M'Gillivray and M'Dougall, Gingras the 
guide, Louis, an Iroquois Indian, and a half-breed lad named Per- 
rault. We took with us the remainder of the baggage. After 
pushing off, we poled away with might and main, and had crossed 
two-thirds of the river, when, on the point of entering an eddy 
which would have brought us out of all danger, we lost bottom 
with our poles, and were carried almost instantaneously into the 
rapid, through which we were driven a short distance, when we 
were brought up by the rocks, on which one end of the raft 
became fast. Gingras instantly jumped over, and quickly gained 
the shore. One of the men, who had crossed over first, imme- 
diately came off to us with a line for the purpose of trying to 
secure the raft until the baggage could be transported ashore. 
Having fastened one end, he returned, accompanied by Perrault, 
each carrying heavy bundles. This however lightened the raft 
so much that it instantly swung round; the line, one end of which 
was held by the Canadian, snapped in two, and before we had time 
to look about us, we found ourselves again descending the rapid. 
All hands immediately jumped overboard, and seized the raft in 
the hope of stopping its progress ; but the overpowering strength 

Hh 



250 CATARACT NARROW ESCAPE. 

of the current baffled all our puny efforts. We might as well 
have attempted to arrest the flight of an eagle, or stop a canon-ball 
in its career. M'Gillivray, Louis, and I, after receiving some 
severe contusions, succeeded in regaining the raft ; but M'Dou- 
gall parted company, and having clambered up the sides of a 
craggy rock, which was a few feet above the surface of the water, 
remained perched on its summit for some hours, in a most piti- 
able condition, from which he was not extricated until late in the 
evening. 

Only three of us now remained, and We had neither pole nor 
paddle by which we could guide our course. We quickly 
cleared the rapid ; but had scarcely time to breathe an aspira- 
tion of thanksgiving, when we were hurried into another, from 
which we again escaped harmless. On emerging from this we 
were forced with inconceivable rapidity through a succession 
of cascades and rapids, two miles in extent ; in the course of 
which, owing to our repeatedly striking on the rocks, the tim- 
bers began to separate. A brief space of smooth water at 
length appeared, and we once more indulged a faint hope of 
escape, when a loud and roaring noise announced the immediate 
vicinity of a cataract. The current became swifter. I looked 
in vain for relief to my two companions. But neither the 
active mind of my friend M'Gillivray, ever fertile in resources, 
nor the long experience of the Iroquois, accustomed from his 
infancy to similar scenes, could suggest any chance of escape. 
The thunders of the cataract now dinned in our ears ; the spray 
from the boiling abyss began to envelope us ; and every suc- 
ceeding moment diminished the slight hopes which had hitherto 
occasionally shot across our bewildered senses. An attempt to 
describe my feelings would be vain. The frightful rapidity 
of the current, joined to the apprehension of instant annihila- 
tion, banished even the recollection of "kindred home," which, 
for a moment, obtruded itself on my imagination. With hope 
fled despair, and in silent resignation we awaited our fate ; but 
at the moment when it appeared inevitable, the sharp eye of 
M'Gillivray observed that the raft was caught by a counter cur- 
rent immediately above the fall. He had a small stick, with 
which he sounded, and found the depth did not exceed three 
feet. He instantly jumped overboard, followed by Louis and 
myself; and with a little exertion we succeeded in dragging the 
raft into an eddy, free from the influence of the great body of 
water, from whence we easily brought it to shore without the 
loss of a single article ! Our companions on shore, after we 
had been carried out of their sight, had abandoned all hopes of 
ever seeing us again, and were therefore agreeably surprised 
at finding us once more safe on terra forma. 

Messrs. Alexander M'Tavish, Bethune, and four men, still re- 



CONSTRUCTION OF RAFTS. 251 

mained on the western side, and in consequence of the narrow 
escape which our first two parties had, they determined not to 
attempt crossing in such a dangerous spot. Having loaded our 
horses, we proceeded about five miles below the traverse, when 
we encamped. M'Tavish's party passed the night on the oppo- 
site bank in a miserable situation, being totally deprived of either 
food or covering, and without means even to make a fire. 

Started early on the morning of the 3d, and after travelling 
about four miles we arrived opposite the spot where our friends 
had passed the night. They had no means of joining us but by 
a raft. The river was smooth ; which circumstance, strength- 
ened by the irrepressible gnawings of hunger, conquered their 
dislike to that mode of crossing. Having neither axe nor line, 
they collected as many pieces of drift-wood as they could find 
on the beach, which they bound together by withes, after which 
they embarked. The raft however had scarcely left the shore 
when it began to give way, and Messrs. Bethune, M'Tavish, 
and two men immediately jumped off', and regained the land at 
the expense of a good ducking. The other two men however 
succeeded in crossing the river on separate pieces, and joined 
us in safety. 

Francois, a Creole, now volunteered to swim over on horse- 
back, and bring with him an axe and some line for the purpose 
of making a raft lower down. This proposition w T as gladly ac- 
cepted, and having taken the strongest of our five horses, he 
plunged in and gained the opposite bank. 

As Mr. Bethune did not like to venture a second time at this 
place, we appointed to meet him at the junction of the Rocky 
Mountain with the Athabasca river, where we hoped he would 
be able to join us. We then continued our progress, and at 
nine a. m. arrived at the mouth of the river, where it joins the 
Athabasca ; and, to our great surprise, observed Mr. Bethune's 
party proceeding at a great distance down the western bank of 
the river. We hailed them, and fired several shots ; but as they 
paid no attention to our signals, we imagined they were ac- 
quainted with a better place to cross the river than that which 
we had pointed out. 

We therefore set all hands to work to construct rafts for our 
party. The Athabasca river at this place was about four hun- 
dred yards wide ; the current strong, but free from rapids, and 
with the exception of two rocks in the centre of the river, there 
was no apparent danger to be apprehended. We remained 
until one o'clock, making two rafts, with poles and paddles 
necessary for working them. The horses were first sent across, 
followed by two men, after which we embarked five on each 
raft, and pushed off. I took care not to separate from my friend 



252 THE "OLD FORT" MOUNTAIN PRAIRIE. 

M'Gillivray and the Iroquois. After poling for a few minutes 
we lost bottom, and were obliged to have recourse to the pad- 
dles, with which we worked on tolerably well until we reached 
the centre of the stream, where we found the current much 
more rapid than we had anticipated. Owing to this circum- 
stance, and the difficulty of steering the raft, we found ourselves 
carried along with great velocity towards one of the rocks 
already mentioned. The danger was imminent ; for, had we 
come broadside against it, we should undoubtedly have gone to 
pieces and perished. We therefore exerted ourselves to the 
utmost to prevent the collision, and were so far fortunate as to 
escape, with merely a slight shock from the corner of the raft 
touching a projecting point of the rock. After this we went on 
smoothly, and reached the eastern side in safety, having drifted 
about a mile down the river from the place of embarkation. 

The horses were quickly loaded, and we proceeded along 
the banks about nine miles, when, ascending a high hill, which 
commanded an extensive prospect, we observed a volume of 
smoke some distance ahead. Supposing it had been made by 
our lost companions, two active men were sent to ascertain the 
fact. They shortly returned, and stated they had seen a fire on 
the opposite bank of the main river, but no appearance of any 
human being about it. We therefore conjectured the fire had 
been made by Bethune's party, and that they had continued on. 

We accordingly increased our pace, in the hope of overtaking 
them, and arrived late in the evening at an uninhabited house, 
heartily tired. This place is called the " Old Fort," and was 
built several years before as a hunting-lodge for trappers ; but 
owing to the scarcity of provisions was subsequently abandoned : 
its lat. is 52° 53' 10" N. 

From the junction of the two rivers to the old fort, the country 
on each side presents a pleasing variety of prairies, open woods, 
and gently rising eminences ; and one spot in particular, called 
La prairie de la Vache (in consequence of buffalo having been 
formerly killed in it), forms a landscape, that for rural beauty 
cannot be excelled in any country. Some slight showers during 
the day. 

June 4th. Early this morning we despatched two parties in 
quest of Messrs. M'Tavish, Bethune, and the men who remained 
with them, and at nine o'clock they returned, bringing them all 
back in safety, but in a state of great exhaustion from want of 
food, and exposure without covering to the night air. They had 
advanced within four miles of our encampment, when they per- 
ceived our men ; and the river being smooth, they constructed a 
raft and crossed over in safety. Remained here a couple of 
hours to refresh the party, after which the horses were loaded, 



SEPARATION OF THE PARTY HUNTING-LODGE. 253 

and we proceeded for about three miles through a handsomely 
diversified country, when our progress was arrested by a bold 
mountain torrent, which fell into the Athabasca. It was too 
deep to ford, and we were again obliged to have recourse to our 
old expedient of rafts in order to cross it. 

The navigation of the main river from this place to Rocky 
Mountain House being free from obstructions, Mr. M'Dougall 
determined to proceed thither by water ; and taking four of the 
men with him, they embarked on one of the rafts, and we 
quickly lost sight of them. We continued on through a hand- 
some country with a tolerable pathway until sunset, when we 
encamped on the border of a small rivulet which runs into the 
Athabasca. 

We loaded our horses at three in the morning of the 5th, and 
for a couple of hours were quite shrouded in oceans of mist ; 
but as it began to dissipate, we had an extensive view of the 
surrounding scenery. 

The genial influence of a June sun relieved the wintry per- 
spective of snow-clad mountains, and as it rose above their lofty 
summits, imparted a golden tinge to the green savannas, the 
open woods, and the innumerable rivulets which contributed 
their waters to swell the Athabasca. It was indeed a landscape 
of contrarieties, scarcely to be met with but in the Alpine regions 
of the Rocky Mountains. 

At eight a. m. we arrived at a hunting-lodge belonging to the 
Company. No person was in it ; but we found what was much 
more acceptable, the body of a buffalo which had been recently 
killed, and left for us by the hunters. It was none of the 
fattest ; but to such half-famished devils it was an unexpected 
luxury. Having eaten, or rather devoured our breakfast, and 
reserved sufficient for supper, we resumed progress with reno- 
vated spirits. At eleven we came to a considerable stream, 
which it was necessary to cross. It had recently however spread 
over a flat bottom, and, forming a shallow lake of some acres 
in extent, completely covered the pathway ; in consequence of 
which our guide experienced much difficulty in conducting us 
through it. 

About a mile beyond this river we arrived at the foot of a 
stupendous rock, called Le Kochcr de Miette, over which we 
had to pass. We commenced our task a little after eleven ; and 
at half past two arrived at its base on the northern side, where 
we remained an hour to refresh the horses. The road over 
this rock is tolerably good, but extremely steep. The horses 
surmounted it with great labour ; and the knees of the majority 
of our party were put to a severe test in the ascent. From the 
summit we had an extensive view of the country, the general 



254 ROCKY MOUNTAIN HOUSE — SUPPOSED VOLCANO. 

features of which do not differ materially from the scenery 
through which we passed the preceding day. A little above 
the southern point of the rock we observed that the Athabasca 
river opened into a lake of about three miles in length, and two 
in breadth, and a few miles below its northern extremity the 
river formed another lake of nearly similar dimensions. Inde- 
pendently of these, the continual accession of waters which the 
Athabasca received from its tributary streams caused it to burst 
its natural boundaries, and in many places we had to wade from 
one to two miles through the flood. Encamped at sunset, at 
the head of the lower lake ; and, maugre our fatigue from trav- 
elling " o'er mountain and through flood," succeeded in de- 
spatching with wonderful celerity the remains of our buffalo. 

At eight a. m. on the morning of the 6th we came opposite 
Rocky Mountain House, which is built on the western shore of 
the second lake. A canoe was immediately despatched for us, 
and we crossed over. This building was a miserable concern 
of rough logs, with only three apartments, but scrupulously 
clean inside. An old clerk, Mr. Jasper Hawes, was in charge, 
and had under his command two Canadians, two Iroquois, and 
three hunters. Its lat. is 53° 18' 40" N. Mr. M'Dougall had 
arrived the day before us, after leaving his raft at the upper end 
of the lower lake, from whence he and his party walked to the 
house. 

We expected to have found a supply of provisions here that 
would enable us to reach English River ; but, to our extreme 
disappointment, none was to be had. Mr. Hawes informed us 
that the hunters were not able to kill more animals than were 
barely sufficient to support his party ; but added, that there was 
every probability of our obtaining a supply from Lesser Slave 
Lake, where Mr. Alexander Stewart had wintered, and whose 
party we expected to join in our route to Fort William. Re- 
mained here all day getting our canoes into order, preparatory to 
our bidding farewell to the Rocky Mountains. The distance 
from the Columbia to this place, which we travelled on foot, is 
by computation about eighty-five or ninety miles. This took 
nearly ten days to accomplish. Some of our men were greatly 
exhausted ; but when we take into consideration the fatigues 
which they endured in ascending the Columbia, the burdens they 
carried in crossing the mountain, joined to the difficulties of the 
road, it must be acknowledged that few could surpass them in 
strength, patience, or perseverance. The house is situated near 
a stream called La Riviere a la Boucane, in consequence of 
some of the hunters who first visited this place having alleged 
that they saw a volcano near its source, which emitted great 
quantities of smoke. On making inquiry from our people, I 



ANIMALS — TRADITION CONCERNING THE MAMMOTH. 255 

could not learn that they had ever seen an actual eruption ; hut 
they assert that in the autumnal months the ground is quite hot, 
and that smoke issues from it in various places ; during which 
period, they add, a strong sulphuric smell pervades the at- 
mosphere. 

We saw nothing from which we could judge whether the 
mountains contained any metallic ores or metals, and I could 
not find on the banks of the various streams any of those fine 
agates which I found on the Columbia. We, however, had no 
time, nor were we qualified to enter into scientific researches ; 
and it will not be until civilization has approached a few hundred 
leagues nearer these great mountains that their various produc- 
tions will be known. At present, however, I am of opinion 
that they contain nothing sufficient to repay a party in visiting 
them merely for scientific purposes. The animals found in the 
various passes of the mountains are the buffaloes, ibex, big-horns, 
or mountain sheep, bears, and sometimes a few wolves. These 
are too well known to require any description here. Some of 
the Upper Crees, a tribe who inhabit the country in the vicinity 
of the Athabasca river, have a curious tradition with respect to 
animals which they state formerly frequented the mountains. 
They allege that these animals were of frightful magnitude, 
being from two to three hundred feet in length, and high in pro- 
portion ; that they formerly lived in the plains, a great distance 
to the eastward ; from which they were gradually driven by the 
Indians to the Rocky Mountains ; that they destroyed all smaller 
animals ; and if their agility was equal to their size, would have 
also destroyed all the natives, &c. One man has asserted that 
his grandfather told him he saw one of those animals in a moun- 
tain pass, where he was hunting, and that on hearing its roar, 
which he compared to loud thunder, the sight almost left his 
eyes, and his heart became as small as an infant's. 

Whether such an animal ever existed I shall leave to the 
curious in natural history to determine ; but if the Indian tradi- 
tion have any foundation in truth, it may have been the mam- 
moth, some of whose remains have been found at various times 
in the United States. 

The height of the Rocky Mountains varies considerably. 
The table land which we crossed I should take to be about 
1 1,000 feet above the level of the sea. From the immense num- 
ber of rapids we had to pass in ascending the Columbia, and its 
precipitous bed above the lakes, I consider that at their base the 
mountains cannot be much under 8000 feet above the level of 
the Pacific ; and from the valley of Canoe River to the level 
part of the heights of land cannot be less than 3000 feet, but 
the actual altitude of their highest summits must be much 



526 SCARCITY OF PROVISIONS VEGETATION. 

greater. They are covered with eternal ice and snow, and will 
probably be for ever inaccessible to man. 

June 7th. We were detained a considerable portion of this 
day getting the canoes finished, and at half past one p. m. we 
took leave of the melancholy hermitage of Mr. Jasper Hawes. 
We had two good bark canoes, and six men in each. The lake 
extended about half a mile below the house, when we entered 
the river, the current of which is very strong, with here and 
there a few rapids, at none of which we were obliged to unload. 

Encamped at dusk on a small low island. Had several smart 
showers during the day. 

June 8th. It rained the greater part of the night. Embarked 
at daybreak in a thick fog, which continued upwards of two 
hours. At eight damaged our canoes in a rapid, at the foot of 
which we stopped to breakfast and repair. At noon passed a 
small river from the east called M'Leod's Fork. Late in the 
evening passed two lodges of Indians, and encamped a short 
distance below them. They paid us a visit, and proved to be 
Crees of the Forts des Prairies department. They brought with 
them a few bags of dried meat and fruit, which they wished to 
barter for rum ; but as we had none of that cheering beverage 
to give them, we tendered them our bills on the Company, for 
which they would have obtained value from any proprietor or 
clerk of the establishment ; at the same time explaining to them 
that we stood in great need of provisions. Mr. Bethune knew 
that they were attached to the interests of our rivals the Hud- 
son's-Bay Company, and therefore offered them higher prices 
than he would have done to those of a friendly tribe ; but it was 
all unavailing. They would hear of nothing — speak of nothing 
— until rum was produced ; and on finding that none could be 
obtained, those splendid specimens of savage hospitality carried 
away their extra provisions, although they were informed that 
we had not enough to subsist on for a couple of days ! 

From Rocky Mountain House to this place the country on each 
side of the river is low, and tolerably well wooded, but a strong 
and marked difference is observable in the size of the trees on 
the eastern side of the mountains. Here all is dwarfish and 
stunted ; while on the Columbia the vegetable world is seen in 
its richest and most magnificent forms — including all the varie- 
ties from a luxuriant growth of blackberry or wild-cherry, to 
the stately pine, and majestic cedar. It is difficult to account 
for this difference ; but if I might hazard an opinion, I would 
attribute it to the great humidity of the climate on the Colum- 
bia. There, westerly and south-westerly winds prevail eight 
months out of the twelve, and carry with them immense masses 
of clouds from the North Pacific. A great portion of these 



UNPLEASANT INTELLIGENCE. 257 

break over the high lands on the coast ; and such as escape are 
arrested in their flight eastward by the Rocky Mountains, and 
burst over their western base. So that at the very source of the 
Columbia the pine and cedar are as gigantic as at its entrance 
into the ocean. 



CHAPTER XXV. 



Descent of the Athabasca River— Party disappointed in receiving provisions 
— Elk River and Lake — Join the brigade from Lesser Slave Lake — Arrive 
at He a la Crosse — Dreadful effects of the opposition between the North- 
West and Hudson's-Bay Companies — Sketch of Mr. Peter Ogden. 

Monday, June 9th. At eleven a. m. passed a small river 
from the eastward, called the Pembina, from a profusion of ber- 
ries of that name which grow on its banks. At two p. m. stopped 
at a hunting-lodge of free Iroquois. The head of the family 
had a letter addressed, " To the gentlemen from the Columbia." 
It was eagerly broken open, and we found it was written by Mr. 
Alexander Stewart, and dated from Lesser Slave Lake, from 
which place he was on the point of setting off with his winter's 
trade of furs for Fort William. In it he regretted his inability 
to assist us with any provisions, alleging as a reason, that he had 
a bare sufficiency for the support of his own people outwards ; 
but recommending that a portion of our party should be sent to 
Slave Lake, where they would find fish enough during the sum- 
mer, and be able to set off the ensuing spring without any fear of 
starvation. 

This intelligence was dreadful, the more so from its being un- 
expected ; for the spring party from the Columbia had hitherto, 
after crossing the mountains, invariably obtained from the peo- 
ple at Lesser Slave Lake, a fresh stock of dried meat or other 
food sufficient to support them to English River, or Cumberland 
House. We of course expected the usual supply, all hopes of 
which were now banished by Mr. Stewart's letter. A council 
was immediately held to consider what plan we should adopt in 
this emergency, when it was suggested that M'Tavish and 
I should proceed forthwith with six men to Slave Lake, and 
remain there until the spring for our passage to Canada. To me, 
another year in the Indian country would be an age : the idea 
was horrible; and I at once refused to accede to such an arrange- 
ment. M'Tavish was equally unbending, and declared his fixed 
determination to proceed. It was urged that we had not pro- 

Ii 



SJ58 DESCENT OF TIIE ATHABASCA. 

visions for three days, and that with such a scanty allowance, 
and no certainty of procuring a supply, inevitable starvation 
awaited us. Finding that this gloomy picture made no impression 
on us, recourse was had to threats, and it was pretty broadly 
insinuated that force would be adopted to compel obedience. 
Matters now became desperate ; we loaded our guns, trimmed 
our flints, the hilt of the dirk became more conspicuous, and 
menace was answered by defiance. The canoe-men looked on 
in silent amazement, but did not attempt to interfere ; indeed 
had they been so inclined, we felt certain that those belonging 
to our own canoe would not have deserted us. Our opponents at 
length thought it prudent to yield to our wishes, and a sort of 
sulky reconciliation took place, after which we embarked. We 
had previously ascertained from the Iroquois, that Mr. Stewart's 
brigade was not more than four days ahead ; and as they were 
heavily laden with furs, while our canoes were quite light, we 
determined to strain every nerve to overtake them. The river 
was broad, with a swift current, and free from rapids ; and we 
therefore continued on all night, a disagreeable head wind occa- 
sionally annoying us. 

June 10th. The Athabasca is here a noble river, flowing 
through a rich pasture country thinly wooded ; saw several 
tracks of buffalo ; but while we had the current in our favour 
we did not think it prudent to stop. The stream carried us 
down in fine style, until six p. m., when we arrived at the en- 
trance of La Riviere de la Biche (Elk River), where we left the 
Athabasca, which, pursuing the course I have already mentioned, 
ultimately discharges its waters into the Arctic Ocean. For 
the last one hundred and twenty miles its navigation was unin- 
terrupted by rapids, with a smooth steady current, and the soil 
on each bank of the richest description. 

We now shaped our course easterly, and ascended Riviere 
de la Biche about three miles, when we encamped. The water 
was very low, and we were dreadfully tormented with mosqui- 
toes ; but our hunters having discovered some fresh tracks of 
buffalo, cheered our drooping spirits a little. 

June I lth. Rose at daybreak, but could scarcely see twenty 
yards ahead, from a thick fog. Owing to the shallowness of 
the river, the passengers preferred walking, in order to lighten 
the canoes. Made half a breakfast of our dried pemmican, of 
which we had not now enough for dinner. At ten a. m. the 
river became wider and deeper, which enabled us to embark 
and resume our paddles. At eleven passed a small stream called 
Auger's River, and about two p. m. came up to a recent en- 
campment of the Slave Lake brigade, the fires of which were still 
burning. Here we also found some pieces of buffalo meat, which 



FORTUNATE RENCOUNTER. 259 

those gentry did not think fat enough to carry, but which proved 
very grateful to our poor fellows. At eight passed the river Pi- 
nette, and encamped at dusk. The land on each side was very 
low, and thinly wooded with small pine and poplar. In some 
parts we observed patches of prairie ground of two or three 
miles in extent. Saw one buffalo about three in the evening, 
but missed him. 

June 12th. We had good deep water for paddling from day- 
break until six a. m., when the river for about four miles spread 
over a stony bottom, which obliged us to land while the men 
worked up with the lines and poles. It then became narrower 
and deeper, and continued so for several miles, until eleven a. 
m., when it entered Lac de la Biche, which we crossed in three 
hours with calm weather. As we approached the eastern shore, 
we observed smoke issuing from a small cove, and immediately 
after the white canvass of a tent met our delighted eyes. A 
few minutes more brought us to land, when we had the inex- 
pressible pleasure of meeting Mr. Alexander Stewart and the 
Slave Lake brigade, consisting of eight canoes and about forty- 
five men. This was a fortunate circumstance. We had not 
eaten a mouthful that day, up to two o'clock, with starvation 
staring us in the face, no natives on our route, and our chance 
of killing animals more than doubtful. We now, however, 
recompensed ourselves for all these uncertainties and apprehen- 
sions by a plentiful repast of roast buffalo and white-fish. 

This lake, from the time we took to traverse it, I should sup- 
pose to be about thirty miles in circumference. It is nearly cir- 
cular, and abounds in white-fish. The surrounding country is 
extremely low, without any rising ground in sight, and on the 
western side the land is quite marshy. The shores are tolerably 
wooded, principally with pine, birch, and poplar. 

During the night, a number of the men w T ere employed on the 
lake catching fish by torch-light, and were rather successful. 

June 13th. About three miles to the eastward of our encamp- 
ment lies a small lake, called by the Canadians Le Petit Lac de 
Bichc. The country between the two lakes forms the height of 
land which divides the waters that fall into the Arctic Ocean 
from the eastward, from those which fall into Hudson's Bay from 
the westward. Mr. Stewart's men had commenced this port- 
age yesterday, and it took us the greater part of this day to finish 
it; which will not appear extraordinary, when it is considered 
that ten large canoes, and between two and three hundred packs 
of beaver, each weighing upwards of ninety pounds, had to be 
carried three miles through a swampy marsh, full of underwood, 
during the greater part of which time it rained heavily. En- 
camped at four p. m. on the shore of the little lake which we 



260 TEDIOUS NAVIGATION. 

had previously crossed, and which was not more than half a mile 
in breadth. 

June 14th. It continued raining the greater part of the night. 
Commenced another portage this morning, of two hundred and 
fifty paces in length, which brought us to a small stream called 
Little Beaver River, into which we threw the canoes. There 
was not sufficient water to float them when loaded, in conse- 
quence of which we had to construct dams at intervals of four 
or five hundred paces. This was both a tedious and laborious 
work ; and we encamped at six p. m., having advanced only 
five miles since morning. Some of the men were sent ahead, 
to make more dams. The passengers walked during the day, 
and our hunters killed one fat moose deer. The country is thinly 
wooded and marshy, and full of wild onions and a species of 
plant which served as an excellent substitute for cabbage. 

June 15th. It rained hard all night, and the greater part of 
this forenoon, owing to which we did not start until twelve o'clock, 
and, being obliged to continue the damming system all day, our 
progress was of course extremely tedious. Passed several hand- 
some prairies, and observed in many places along the banks of 
the little river marks of beaver cuttings. Birch, pine, and poplar 
form the principal timber here. Made a small portage, and 
encamped at seven r. m. Our hunters killed another prime 
moose. 

June 16th. Set off at three a. m., still in the dams. At 
seven made a short portage, at the end of which we stopped to 
breakfast and repair the canoes, which had been greatly shat- 
tered by the ditch navigation. About one p. m. we had a suf- 
ficient navigation to admit of our embarking, and we proceeded 
with a tolerably smooth current until half past four, when we 
encamped, having overtaken our hunters, who had killed a fat 
bull-buffalo and two beavers, on which we made an excellent 
dinner. The country was not so well wooded as yesterday. 
We had cloudy and occasionally rainy weather, which for the 
season was also rather chilly. 

June 17th. Embarked at half past three a. m. Made sev- 
eral portages on account of rapids and shoals. Our progress 
was therefore slow. Killed a buck-moose in good condition. 
On shore the greater part of the day. It consisted principally 
of rich meadow land, with clusters of birch and poplar scattered 
here and there along the banks of the river. Encamped at 
six P. M. 

June 18th. Set off at four, and had a pretty smooth steady 
current all day. The country now assumes a more picturesque 
appearance, rather thickly wooded, and the banks of the river 
more bold and hilly. The rapidity of our progress brought us 



LETTERS FOUND HALT AND EXCURSION. 261 

considerably in advance of the hunters, and at three p. m. we put 
ashore to wait for them. The place at which we stopped was 
called La Jolie Butte, by way of pre-eminence, from the varied 
and handsome landscape by which it was surrounded. The hunt- 
ers joined us at six, after which we continued on, and encamped 
at eight p. m. in sight of Moose Portage. Only three beavers 
were killed this day. 

June 19th. Sent the hunters off ahead at daybreak, and at 
half past five commenced Moose Portage, which we passed in less 
than two hours. Here we found, fixed on poles in a conspicuous 
part of the portage, some letters from the gentlemen stationed 
at Forts des Prairies, containing satisfactory news. From their 
date we conjectured that the messengers who brought them must 
have been very recently at the portage. At nine a. m. joined 
the hunters, who had just returned from a long chase to the north- 
ward, in the course of which they only killed one bull and one 
moose : and as we stood in great need of a supply, we were 
obliged to stop here the remainder of the day, to give the meat- 
men time to bring in the bodies of those animals. The hunters, 
however, started off ahead. 

June 20th. The meat-men did not return until nine this morn- 
ing, when we embarked ; but at eleven the hunters' signal drew 
us to shore, and the meat-men were despatched. They remained 
away six hours, and returned at five p. m. loaded with the 
carcasses of an immensely sized bull, and a huge grizzly bear. 
Encamped at eight at the Portage du Lac Froid, a small lake, 
the water of which some of our people imagine is colder than 
that of Beaver River, and, in order to account for this extra fri- 
gidity, it is supposed that it is fed from the bottom by springs of 
a peculiar nature. I tasted it ; but whether it was owing to the 
heat of the weather, or to a vitiated palate I must candidly 
confess, that I could not discover any perceptible difference in 
its temperature. 

The country through which we passed for the last few days is 
highly diversified with hill and dale, meadow-ground and timber, 
and has many charming spots for building. 

June 21st. Set off at four a. m., and drove down the current 
in fine style until two p. m., when we came up with our hunters. 
They had just returned after a long and fatiguing pursuit of a 
herd of buffaloes, three of which they killed, besides five they 
wounded, but which made their escape. Encamped here, and 
sent off a party for the meat. A ridge of pretty high hills thickly 
wooded runs parallel with the course of the river from Lac 
Froid to this place. M'Tavish and I took a stroll inland in the 
track of the hunters, and had not proceeded more than a mile, 



262 DISAGREEABLE NEWS. 

when we observed several buffaloes grazing. I instantly fired, 
and hit one under the left shoulder. The remainder fled ; but 
the wounded animal, bellowing in a frightful manner, with rage 
and fury flashing from his rolling eyes, charged on us. We 
retreated behind the cover of a tree, from whence M'Tavish took 
a steady aim, and lodged a ball in his head directly over the right 
eye. He instantly fell, and we cautiously approached him, but 
took care to plant a couple more bullets about his head before 
we came within arm's length. 

June 22d. The meat-men did not return until half past ten 
this morning, when we set off, but were obliged to stop from 
twelve to three for another buffalo which our hunters had killed. 
Encamped at eight p. m. in a handsome prairie on the north side. 
Observed recent marks of buffalo and moose, and numerous 
beaver cuttings. 

June 23d. Embarked at half past three a. m. Stopped 
about an hour for a moose which was killed about half a mile 
inland. The river for the two last days had no rapid of any conse- 
quence, and the weather was very warm. A little after eight p. m. 
observed a small leather hut on the north side, in which we found 
three free trappers, who had been formerly engages of the North- 
West Company ; but who, after the expiration of their engage- 
ment, preferred the wild and wandering life of a trapper, to re- 
maining in the Company's service, or returning to Canada. We 
encamped a little below their hut, and they visited us after sup- 
per. Their news was by no means of an agreeable nature. 
They informed us that they had learned from some natives that 
a party of the Cree Indians from Forts des Prairies, urged by 
large promises of reward from the Hudson's-Bay Company, had 
gone on a war expedition to destroy our establishment at lie a la 
Crosse and all its inmates ; adding, that whether successful or 
not, it was more than probable we might meet this party en 
route. 

As this intelligence was quite unexpected, and as we were 
badly prepared to encounter a war party of savages, Mr. Stew- 
art, who had now the command, ordered the hunters not to 
advance more than a mile ahead, and in case they observed any 
appearance of natives, to return immediately to the main brigade. 
In the mean time our fire-arms were put in order, and the men, 
the greater part of whom had no weapons save their knives, 
were ordered to furnish themselves with clubs. We then retired 
to rest, leaving five sentinels and an officer on guard, to be re- 
lieved every two hours. 

June 24th. Set off at half past three, a. m. At half past 
two p. m., passed Lac Vert, a small lake so called from the 
greenish tinge of its water. Encamped at half past seven at the 



ARRIVAL AT THE FORT — COMMERCIAL WARFARE. 263 

entrance of a small river called La Poule d'Eau. The coun- 
try these two days is thinly wooded, and very flat. In many 
places the river had overflowed its banks. Saw no animals. 

June 25th. Embarked at half past three. Stopped from 
eleven to two to repair the canoes, and dry some of the beaver 
which had been slightly damaged from leaks. The country 
through which we passed this day was quite flat and marshy, 
occasioned by the inundations in times of high water. Encamped 
at dusk, at the entrance of a small river called La Plonge. 

June 2(5th. Beaver River at this place branches into several 
channels. We took the principal one, and at eleven a. m. ar- 
rived at its termination, where it enters the lake of He a. la Crosse, 
nearly opposite the fort. Stopped here for half an hour^ewr se 
faire la barbe, and make other little arrangements connected 
with the toilet. These being completed, we embarked, but having 
the fear of the Crees before our eyes, our progress was slow and 
cautious across the lake, until our avant-couriers announced to 
us that the flag of the North-West floated from the bastions, and 
that all was safe. The Chanson a Vaviron was instantly struck 
up, and at one p. m. we reached the wharf, where we were met 
by Messrs. M'Murray and Ogden, who were in charge of the 
fort. Those gentlemen had also heard the rumoured intention of 
the Crees to attack the establishment, but they were of opinion 
that the attempt would not be made. They had only eight men 
under their command ; but the place was surrounded by strong 
palisades, and flanked by two bastions, which, although not very 
beautiful specimens of fortification, would have puzzled a bat- 
talion of Indians to take. The Hudson's-Bay Company had a 
fort on a point of land running into the lake, which was not more 
than a quarter of a mile distant from our establishment. It had 
been taken the preceding winter by the North- West Company, 
and at the period of our arrival there were about twenty (men) 
prisoners in it, and upwards of one hundred and twenty women 
and children, besides dogs innumerable. They were miserably 
supplied with provisions, and all seemed dejected and emaciated. 
Their principal reliance for food was on the lake ; and when 
the fish failed, their chief support was tripe de roclier. I con- 
versed with some of the men. They were from the Orkneys, 
and wished they were safe home again. They spoke in no 
flattering terms of the treatment they had received from their 
captors ; but admitted that such of the North- Westers as had 
been made prisoners by their party fared no better. 

It will undoubtedly sound odd in the ear of British readers, 
to hear of forts attacked and prisoners taken by commercial 
companies, natives of the same country, and subjects of the 



264 RIVAL COMPANIES COLONIAL HARDSHIPS. 

same king. To account for this it will be necessary to take a 
short retrospect, in order to explain the causes that led to a state 
of things which was ultimately productive of so many disastrous 
and melancholy consequences. 

The opposition between the Hudson's-Bay and the North- 
West Companies was for many years carried on without any 
violent breach of the peace on either side. As I have observed 
in the introduction, the indolent habits of the persons belonging 
to the former, unstimulated by any hope of extra reward or 
prospective promotion, gave to the North- West Company pow- 
erful advantages, of which they did not fail to avail themselves ; 
and while their enterprising agents explored the most remote 
parts of the continent for the extension of their trade, their 
chartered opponents, with a Dutch-like kind of apathy, quietly 
confined themselves to their ancient territory. 

Both parties were thus situated, when the late Earl of Selkirk 
conceived the idea of establishing a Colony of Scotch and Irish 
on the Red River, which falls into Lake Winepic. The soil was 
fertile, the climate temperate, and, were it not for its great 
distance from civilization, was admirably calculated for a new 
settlement. It was, however, the great depot of the North- West 
Company for making pemmican, the principal article of food 
used by their canoe-men in voyaging. If the colony succeeded, 
it would gradually cut off* the buffalo, from which the pemmican 
is made, and ultimately oblige the Company to import from 
Canada, at an enormous expense, a great portion of the provi- 
sions necessary for their travelling parties. It may therefore be 
supposed, that the settlers were not regarded with the most 
friendly feelings ; and every obstacle short of actual violence was 
thrown in the way of their location. Their first year was one 
of incredible hardships, arising from their ignorance of the coun- 
try and its productions, and the total failure of their provisions ; 
which, joined to the various modes of annoyance practised by 
the North- West Company, induced the greater part to avail 
themselves of an offer made by members of that concern to 
transport them gratuitously to Canada in their canoes. 

The want of success in his first attempt at colonization being, 
in a great degree, caused by the opposition of the North- West 
Company, Lord Selkirk determined to adopt retaliatory mea- 
sures ; and for this purpose purchased a number of shares in the 
Hudson's-Bay Company, of which he became an active director. 
His Lordship was well aware that several clerks, who had been 
many years in the service of the rival Company, were discon- 
tented at not having been sooner promoted to the proprietory, 
and that the claims of the old and faithful were too often passed 
over, while young favourites of comparatively little experience 



MANOEUVRING RIVAL TRADERS. 265 

were placed above them. It was therefore an important object 
with him to induce as many as possible of those so dissatisfied 
to join his party by the offer of large salaries, which several^ at 
the expiration of their various engagements with the North- West 
Company, accepted. 

The most active of these gentlemen was Mr. Colin Robertson, 
an enterprising trader, who had often ventured his life, both 
among Indians and white men, to advance the interests of his 
establishment. Having a perfect knowledge of the business of 
the interior, Lord Selkirk intrusted him with its chief manage- 
ment ; and as he knew from experience the great superiority of 
the Canadian voyageurs over the Orkney men, in the manage- 
ment of canoes, &c, he engaged a number of them at Montreal 
at a much higher rate of wages than had been previously paid 
by the North- West Company. 

The opposition between the rival parties now assumed a new 
and more marked character, and the invigorating spirit which 
had been infused into the hitherto cautious councils of the Hud- 
son's-Bay, by the daring policy of Mr. Robertson, soon became 
manifest. He knew the strong holds and the weak points of 
his opponents, and being of opinion that much depended on 
the first impression made on the Indians, he at once determined 
to push for Athabasca, the great northern department of the 
North- West, and the most productive in beaver. No rival 
trader had ever before ventured to encroach on Athabasca, and 
this unexpected invasion was deemed the ne plus ultra of au- 
dacity, the seizure of the bull by the horns. 

Mr. Robertson was successful in his first expedition. The 
high prices he offered for their furs seduced the natives from 
their allegiance to their old masters, and hundreds came crowd- 
ing to his standard. In other parts of the interior the struggle 
was more obstinate, and the North -Westers, to secure the waver- 
ing loyalty of the Indians, were compelled to keep pace with the 
advanced prices of their opponents. 

A reinforcement of settlers having in the mean time arrived 
at Hudson's Bay, they were despatched to the Red River, where 
they built a strong fort, and began to re-establish the colony. 
Several of the natives joined them, and the influence of the 
North- West became sensibly diminished in that quarter. 

Thus far Lord Selkirk's plan of operations for the year 1814* 
15 succeeded beyond his expectations ; and great preparations 
were made by him for opening the ensuing campaign on a much 
more extended scale. The exertions of the North- Westers 
were equally vigorous. Double the usual quantity of trading 
goods was sent to the interior, the men's wages were raised, and 
several clerks were elected proprietors. The orders to both 

Kk 



266 COMMERCIAL WARFARE, 

parties were, to secure as much provisions and furs as they 
could collect, coute qui coute. 

Mr. Clarke, lately of the Pacific Fur Company, on his arrival 
m Canada from the Columbia, was engaged by Lord Selkirk,, 
and proceeded with a strong force to Athabasca, in which de- 
partment he had spent many years while in the service of the 
North- West, during which period he was a great favourite with 
the Chepweyans. 

It is not my intention, however, to give a detail of the various 
quarrels, the prisoners made, the forts surprised, or the lists of 
killed and wounded on each side : but from the following ex- 
tracts of letters, which I received before quitting the Columbia, 
it will be seen that the Hudson's-Bay people were the greatest 
sufferers. 

" Fort William, 28th July, 1816. 

" You already know the strong opposition that came into the 
country, the greatest part of which went to Athabasca and 
Slave Lake. You must also have heard of their success at the 
former place, having been obliged from starvation to give them- 
selves up to the North-West ; although your old friend* swore 
he would rather die than come under any obligations to our 
people. He lost seventeen men by famine. At Slave Lake 
they were more successful ; but at the different establishments 
they had in other parts of the country, they lost thirteen more 
by starvation. Last June they received a mortal blow from 
the Cossack sf of Red River ; of which affair, as I was on the 
spot a few days after, 1 shall give you a detail. You of course 
know that two of our forts were taken, and all the property y 
and that Capt. CameronJ was made prisoner. The forts were 
subsequently burned. 

" Mr. A. M'Donell, who was stationed at Qu'appelle river, 
held his fort in defiance of them. He was threatened with 
destruction if he made any attempt to pass downward. His 
opponent, however, started with his men, and returns of furs 
and provisions ; of the latter he had about three hundred tau- 
reaux (pemmigans) well guarded, as they thought, but those 
blackguard BruUs (I know not for what cause) fell in with 
them, took them all prisoners, and carried the property to Mr. 
M'Donell. No blood was shed on this occasion. Some time 
after Mr. M'Donell being anxious for the arrival of the gentle- 

* Mr. Clarke. 

t A iwm de guerre given by the writer to the sons of white men by Indian 
wives. They are also called Bois Bruits, — but why, it is difficult to detei- 
wiine. 

t This gentleman was a proprietor of the North-West Company. 



COMMERCIAL WARFARE. 267 

men from the northward, sent a party of five Canadians with 
two carts loaded with provisions for us by land ; and the above 
blackguards took upon themselves to accompany them, to the 
number of fifty. On passing by the colony, at the distance of 
two miles, they were stopped by the governor and twenty-six 
men well armed. The Bruits were at that time but thirteen, 
including the Canadians. A few words arose between the 
governor and one of our men. The former ordered his men 
to fire, when two only with much reluctance obeyed. The fire 
was immediately returned by the BruUs, when seven instantly 
fell. A retreat was begun by the Hudson's-Bay people ; but 
out of twenty-six, only four escaped. Officers killed, Governor 
Semple, Messrs. M'Lean, Rogers, Holt, Wilkinson, and Doctor 
White. A Mr. Burke, who commanded their artillery, was 
wounded, and is now a prisoner here with three others. The 
BruUs had only one man killed and one wounded. They 
took the fort, with a great quantity of arms and ammunition, 
and have sworn vengeance against every description of Hud- 
son's-Bay men. Even the Indians attached to the interests of 
the latter were obliged to come under the banners of the BruUs. 
They were commanded by six officers, some of whom you 
know.* This happened on the 19th of June, and we arrived on 
the 23d. 

" Lord Selkirk is coming up in person with a strong force, 
expecting, no doubt, to carry every thing before him. His body- 
guard was taken from him before leaving Montreal, as the regi- 
ment was disbanded. He has, however, hired some of them on 
his own account. We expect him daily. His friend Miles 
M'Donell, with two canoes, went in almost to Bas de la Riviere ; 
but on learning from the Indians the above intelligence, he 
thought proper to change his course, and immediately returned 
to wait his lordship's orders. Five of their canoes are stuck fast 
near this place, one further on, and three have returned to the 
Sault in a state of mutiny. By this you may see what his 
lordship's prospects may be." 

" Fort William, 30th July, 1826. 
" My dear Cox, 
" Times have much altered since I have been on this side the 
mountains. The habits of indolence which I acquired on the 
banks of the Columbia render every thing on this busy bustling 

* The leader of this party, Mr. Alexander Frascr, is the same individual 
who lost his life at the commencement of the year 1829 in Paris, in a quarrel 
with a Mr. Warren, who was subsequently tried for the offence, and sen- 
tenced to eighteen months- imprisonment. Mr. Fraser was wholly blameless 
in the unfortunate affair which ended in his death. 



268 COMMERCIAL WARFARE. 

scene rather disagreeable ; and, to add to my vexation, notwith- 
standing my long services, and my exertions to avoid it, 1 have 
been appointed to winter in a most villanous starving post, with 
a strong force of the Hudson's Bay to oppose me. 

"Mr. Clarke was remarkably unfortunate in his Athabasca 
expedition. He lost numbers of his people from starvation ; 
and in order to save the remainder he was forced to capitulate, 
surrender his fort, and the whole of his property. 

" At Red River, during the winter, the Hudson's-Bay drove 
all before them. They took several of our forts, and made a 
prisoner of one of our proprietors (Mr. Cameron), whom they 
sent to the Bay, to be from thence transmitted for trial to Eng- 
land. They met however a severe blow in the spring. They 
attacked a party of half-breeds, and were defeated with the loss 
of twenty-five men, including three officers. Their forts and 
provisions fell into our hands, their men were made prisoners, 
and the whole of their colonists and traders were driven out 
of the Red River. 

" We are daily expecting Lord Selkirk with a force of two 
hundred men from Montreal, but he will be undoubtedly forced 
to retreat from want of provisions. He is yet ignorant of the 
disasters that have befallen his favourite colony. What the 
result will be, time must determine." 

The writers of those letters were two of the most moderate 
men in our Company ; but from the apathy they evince in 
speaking of the ruthless massacre of the unfortunate settlers, the 
esprit de corps which animated the fighting members may be 
conjectured. In fact, the infernal spirit of rivalry had attained 
such a height, that the mildest and the bravest of both parties 
became in turn the most reckless desperadoes. Force was the 
only tribunal to which they appealed, and arms their only 
arguments. 

The peace with the United States had thrown idle in Canada 
a number of soldiers whose regiments had been disbanded. 
Among those was dc Meuron's regiment, upwards of two hun- 
dred of which were engaged by Lord Selkirk, as a corps oVobser- 
ration, to awe the North-Westers. On hearing however of the 
fate of the colonists at Red River, he did not think it prudent to 
venture beyond Fort. William, and immediately returned to the 
seat of government in Canada. A number of the most influ- 
ential members of the rival companies had been the year before 
appointed magistrates of the Indian territory ; and owing to the 
representations of his lordship, as to the manner in which his 
majesty's subjects were murdering each other with impunity* 
the governor-general issued a proclamation, commanding the 



HOSPITABLE ENTERTAINMENT. 269 

immediate arrest of all persons concerned in the recent outrages, 
and threatening with the severest punishment all future breaches 
of the peace.* His excellency also appointed Messrs. Coltman 
and Fletcher, two gentlemen of the highest respectability, and 
unconnected with either company, as commissioners to proceed 
forthwith to the Indian country, for the purpose of investigating 
into the origin of the outrages, and to order the arrest of all per- 
sons implicated, with a view to their being transmitted to 
Canada for trial. It was however rather late in the season to 
proceed to the interior, and their departure was therefore de- 
layed until the spring of 1817. 

In the mean time, the war was carried on with unabated 
vigour during the winter of 181G-17. One partner, one clerk, 
and a few men belonging to the North- Westers, were captured 
by the Hudson's-Bay people ; but the latter were generally de- 
feated. Several of their officers and numbers of their men 
were made prisoners ; and some of their forts were obliged to 
capitulate on unconditional terms. 

The spirit of ruinous competition had at this period gained 
such a height, that the prices given to the Indians for their furs, 
after deducting the expenses of carriage and other contingent 
charges, far exceeded their value to the Company. Their profits 
became sensibly diminished, and the persons who derived the 
greatest benefits from the opposition were the clerks and other 
employes. 

Such was the situation of affairs when we arrived at He h la 
Crosse. As I have already mentioned, the Hudson's-Bay estab- 
lishment at this place had been captured the preceding winter 
by the North- West, and the officer in charge sent forward to 
join some more of his companions in captivity. 

We remained a couple of days at the fort to refresh the men, 
and were hospitably entertained by our hosts, on excellent 
white fish, and tea without sugar. One of those gentlemen, 
Mr. Peter Ogden, was nearly related to a high judicial func- 
tionary, and in early life was destined for the same profession. 
The study of provincial jurisprudence, and the seignorial subdi- 
visions of Canadian property, had no charms for the mercurial 
temperament of Mr. Ogden ; and, contrary to the wishes of his 
friends, he preferred the wild and untrammelled life of an Indian 
trader, to the " law's delay," and the wholesome restraints which 
are provided for the correction of over-exuberant spirits in civ- 
ilized society. His accounts of his various rencounters with 
Orkney men and Indians would have filled a moderate-sized 

* This document was forwarded by express lo the interior, and treated, with; 
sovereign contempt by the majority of those to whom it was addressed. 



270 ROUTE CONTINUED. 

octavo, and if reduced to writing would undoubtedly stagger the 
credulity of any person unacquainted with the Indian country ; 
and although some of his statements were slightly tinctured with 
the prevalent failing of La Guienne, there was vraisemblance 
enough throughout to command our belief in their general accu- 
racy. In a country, however, in which there is no legal tribunal 
to appeal to, and into which the " king's writ does not run," 
many acts must be committed that would not stand a strict in- 
vestigation in Banco Regis. " My legal primer," said Ogden, 
" says that necessity has no law ; and in this place, where the 
custom of the country, or as lawyers say. the Lex non scripta is 
our only guide, we must, in our acts of summary legislation, 
sometimes perform the parts of judge, jury, sheriff, hangman, 
gallows and all !" 



CHAPTER XXVI. 



English river — Pass numerous lakes and rapids — Arrive at Cumberland House 
— Saskachawaine river — Lake Winepic — Aurora Borealis — River Winepic — 
Meet various parties — Rainy Lake and Fort — Death of an Indian. 

Sunday, June 29th. At half past eleven a. m. this day we 
bid adieu to the humorous, honest, eccentric, law-defying Peter 
Ogden, the terror of Indians, and the delight of all gay fellows. 

It blew pretty fresh during the day, which obliged us to keep 
our square-sail closely reefed. We generally kept from two to 
six miles from shore, and occasionally shipped a good deal of 
water. Encamped at eight p. m. at the extremity of he lake. 
It is computed to be eighteen leagues in length, and from three 
to five in breadth, and is indented by a number of deep bays, 
the shores of which were at times scarcely visible with the naked 
eye. A few islands are scattered over it, on which we observed 
immense numbers of pelicans. 

June 30th. Embarked at three a. m. At five passed the 
Portage Sonnant, which was followed by several bad rapids, 
through which we ran without unloading. At six, passed Cari- 
boeuf river, celebrated for its excellent fish, and at eight passed 
the Portage de la Puisse, where we stopped to breakfast and 
repair the canoes. At half past two, passed the Portage des 
Anglais ; and at six crossed Knee Lake, a pretty large body of 
water. Encamped at eight, at La Riviere Croche : charming 
weather all day, 



STRAITENED SUPPLIES DANGEROUS RAPIDS. 271 

July 1st, 1817. Embarked at three a. m., and at four over- 
took the loaded canoes, which we passed. Crossed Lac du 
Sable with a stiff breeze, and shot down Les Rapides des Ser- 
pens, without unloading. This brought us into Lac des Serpens, 
which we crossed with a fair wind at half past ten, and imme- 
diately entered Lac de Souris ; at the end of which we break- 
fasted. Continued on at noon with a fine breeze across Lac 
des Epingles, and at half past two passed the portage at its ter- 
mination. At three passed the Portage des Bouleaux, at which 
we only took out half the loading ; and at four passed another port- 
age, called Le Canot Casse. Shortly after crossed Le Lac 
d'Huile d'Ours with a fair wind, and encamped at six, a little 
below Le Rapide qui ne parle point. Four lodges of the Che- 
pewyan Indians were near our encampment, from whom we 
purchased a small quantity of meat. We also caught nine ex- 
cellent pike. It rained occasionally during the evening. Saw 
three moose and five bears, but could not get a shot at them. 

July 2d. On examining our nets this morning we found only 
six pike, a miserable supply for so many people. Set off at 
three a. m. with a fair wind, and had tolerably good navigation 
until eight, when we arrived at the Portage des Halliers, at the 
southern end of which we breakfasted. At one passed the 
Portage de Traite : at two, that of the Petit Rocher, and at three, 
a demi-portage called Les Ecors, where the lading only was car- 
ried. Encamped at five, at Laviere des Cotes where we ex- 
pected to make a good haul with our nets. We caught ten pike 
during the day at the different portages. Saw two large bears, 
but could not hit them. Weather very warm. 

July 3d. Our nets this morning produced thirty white fish, 
pike, pickerel, and carp. Embarked at three a. m. and crossed Le 
Lac du Diable with a fair breeze. At six finished the Portage du 
Diable on the leftside. The road is long, crooked, and narrow j 
which accounts, I should suppose, for the name given by the 
Canadians to the portage. A small lake next followed, which 
brought us to a chain of short ugly rapids called Les Petits 
Diables, down which we shot without unloading, but damaged 
the canoes considerably. At the end of the last "Little Devil," 
we were obliged to unload the trading packages, &c. At this 
place the water forces its way through three small straits into a 
lake about five miles long, which is terminated by Le Rapide de 
l'Outre, at the end of which we breakfasted. At ten renewed 
our progress, and entered Le Lac de l'Outre, which brought us 
to a portage called Le Petit Rocher de la Montagne, which we 
finished at half past twelve. At two made the Portage de la 
Montagne. The distance between the two portages does not 
exceed half a mile, and they derive their name from high rocky 



272 FISHING FOKTAGES ROUTE CONTINUED! 

eminences in the vicinity. Encamped at five, at the south end 
of Le Lac de la Queue Depouillee ; where we set our netSi 
Passed some fine rising grounds during the day, well stocked 
with spruce, poplar, birch, cypress, and willow. Near the wa- 
ter's edge, we observed quantities of wild gooseberry, currant* 
strawberry, blueberry, foe- 
July 4th. Caught only twenty carp, pike, and white fish. 
Started at three. At five arrived at the entrance of Riviere au 
Rapide, where there are a couple of small houses for the ren- 
dezvous of the people belonging to Lac la Ronge, a trading 
establishment situated about six leagues from this place. As this 
was esteemed a capital fishing spot, we sent on the loaded ca- 
noes, and remained ourselves here the remainder of the day, to 
recruit our stock of provisions. Weather very sultry all day. 

July 5th. Caught only thirty fish, seventeen of which were 
speared. Embarked at three, and in half an hour afterward 
made the portage of La Riviere au Rapide, which is very short. 
This brought us into a handsome lake, and at six made the Port- 
age de Pile, over a small island, by which a circuitous passage 
by the river is considerably shortened. After re-embarking we 
passed through another lake interspersed with islands, which 
brought us to a narrow rapid channel, through which we passed 
until we arrived at Portage de Barril at eight o'clock, where we 
overtook the loaded canoes. They had only caught fish enough 
for breakfast. After quitting this place we entered another lake a 
few miles in extent, in the centre of which was a very bad rapid. 
At nine arrived at another portage called Le grande Rapide du 
Fort de Traite. It is the longest carrying-place on the Eng- 
lish River. Here we breakfasted and repaired the canoes. 
Caught also eight good pike. Proceeded on at eleven, and 
crossed Le Lac du Fort de Traite in three hours and a half, with 
rather a head wind the greater part of the way. 

At three passed the Portage du Fort de Traite, which is rather 
long. Here took leave of the English River, which, taking the 
name of Churchill, turns down to Hudson's-Bay. During the 
six days that we were sailing down this river, we crossed sixteen 
lakes, and passed upwards of thirty rapids, at sixteen of which 
we were obliged to make portages. 

A little after three p. m. entered a small river with an imper- 
ceptible current, in which we had not proceeded more than half 
a mile, when it widened considerably, and presented to our view 
an extensive prospect of fine flat country, bounded at a great 
distance by well-wooded hills. A little further on, the channel 
again became quite contracted, and more difficult to navigate, 
owing to several small islands interrupting the course of the cur* 
rent. At one dttroit, we were obliged to unload and carry the 



SUPPLY OP FISH — DANGEROUS NAVIGATION. 273 

goods some distance. This brought us to a lake which we 
crossed at half past four, and on the shores of which we encamp- 
ed, for the purpose of trying to procure a supper offish. Killed 
two hares, a pair of ducks, and a brace of patridges during the 
day, which we boiled with tripe du rocher, a species of nutritive 
moss growing on the rocks, and which made excellent soup. 

July 6th. Embarked at three. Our nets only produced four 
fish this morning. Entered Lac du Bois at half past three, and 
crossed it in five hours. It is a fine body of water, surrounded 
by a champaign country, tolerably well wooded. At the end of 
the lake made three small portages, close to each other, and 
about two miles lower down made half a portage called Le De- 
charge au Lac du Bois, all of which we completed at half past 
ten a. m. Mr. Stewart's canoe and mine remained here the rest 
of the day to fish ; one only of the loaded canoes joined us. 
Dined and supped chiefly on tripe de rocher. 

July 7th. We caught during the night, with the net, lines, 
and spears, fifty well-assorted fish, which gave a tolerable meal 
to our half-starved hard-working men. Set off* at the usual hour. 
At seven crossed Pelican Lake, at which we stopped to break- 
fast. Here also we caught a few carp. 

Proceeded on at nine, and shortly after arrived at the head of 
Lac Miron, where we remained till noon wind-bound. The 
weather having moderated a little, we embarked about a quar- 
ter past twelve, but had not reached more than the centre of the 
lake when we were overtaken by a storm of thunder, and heavy 
rain, accompanied by dreadful squalls from every quarter of the 
compass. To return was impossible, and we continued occa- 
sionally shipping large quantities of water, and momentarily 
expecting to be upset by the violence of the storm. We crossed, 
however, in safety ; and at four, encamped at the Portage d'Ep- 
inettes, for the purpose of drying ourselves, and spreading the 
nets. The weather continued rainy and squally during he 
night. 

July 8th. This morning only produced five pike for the two 
canoes. Started at half past three. At four, made the short 
Portage de l'lle; and at half past seven passed the Portage des 
Bouleaux dans la Riviere Crcuse. It was long and slippery, 
owing to the recent rains. Shortly below it, ran down a dan- 
gerous rapid, called la Carpe, without unloading, and were 
near perishing, from the intricacy of the channel. At nine, 
made the Portage de la Carpe, at the end of which we break- 
fasted, repaired thecanoes, and caught twenty white-fish with a 
kind of hook formed by one of the men out of the handle of the 
cooking-kettle. Proceeded on at noon, through a clear chan- 
nel, until 3 p. m., when we arrived at the Rapide des Ecors, 

LI 



274 GALE AND THUNDER STORM — LA RIVIERE MALIGNE, 

which we shot down without unloading. At five made the 
Portage de la Pente, after which a steady uninterrupted current 
brought us, at half past six, to Lac Castor. Here Mr. Stew- 
art's canoe took the lead, and we continued on in a heavy gale 
and thunder-storm, until night overtook us in the centre of the 
lake. We were for some time in a very critical situation, owing 
to the darkness, which was only relieved by an occasional flash 
of lightning. We at length approached shore, and observed 
a long, high, and rocky point, which it would be madness to 
attempt to double. Orders were therefore given to land at the 
most practicable part ; and, after beating about for some time 
in search of a beach, we succeeded about eleven o'clock in run- 
ning the canoes into a small cove at the southern end of the 
point. It rained on us the whole night, and we had not a 
mouthful of provisions. 

July 9th. The gale continued without intermission accom- 
panied by heavy rain all the forenoon ; and owing to our tent 
being in Mr. Stewart's canoe, we were deprived of any shelter. 
About five p. m. the weather moderated, and enabled us to push 
off. We doubled the point in safety, after which we hoisted 
sail, and in half an hour afterward joined Mr. Stewart, who 
had encamped at the head of La Riviere Maligne, where he 
waited our arrival. Stopped here the remainder of the day, 
being anxious to ascertain how the loaded canoes had weathered 
out the gale. The unsettled state of the wind prevented us 
from catching any fish, and we were obliged to retire again on 
this night to our stony couch supperless. 

July 10th. Embarked at three a. m. and entered La Riviere 
Maligne. We had not proceeded far, when, in running down 
La Rapide Croche, our canoe came in contact with the rocks, 
by which eight ribs were broken, and it was otherwise badly 
damaged. This delayed us some time to repair. After launch- 
ing again we had not proceeded through more than two or three 
miles of smooth water, when we got into a chain of shallow, 
crooked, and rocky rapids, in every one of which we sustained 
more or less injury. At eight a. m. passed the mouth of Rat 
River, a small stream ; and within a quarter of nine arrived at 
the termination of La Riviere Maligne, where it discharges its 
waters into Cumberland-House Lake. This river is most ap- 
propriately named by the Canadians ; for I believe, for its length, 
it is the most dangerous, cross-grained piece of navigation in the 
Indian country. 

Owing to a head wind, we were unable to proceed until half 
past four p. m., when it veered about in our favour. We in- 
stantly hoisted sail, and made the Grande Traverse in three 
hours. Encamped at nine on a low muddy beach. Caught 



RIVAL SETTLEMENTS MOSQUITOES. 275 

three small fish, which were boiled with some tripe de rocker, 
and afforded a spoonful of soup to each of the poor famished men. 

July 11th. Started at two a. m., and a short distance above 
our encampment passed the lodge of a fisherman belonging to 
Cumberland House, from whom we obtained a most welcome 
and seasonable supply of three prime sturgeon. At four, made 
the Traverse dc l'lle with a strong side breeze, when we landed 
to allow time to our hungry voyagevrs to regale themselves on 
the fisherman's supply. A roaring fire quickly crackled on the 
beach, and in less than an hour the sturgeon entirely disap- 
peared. Proceeded on at six, and at seven arrived at Cumberland 
House, of which we found a gentleman named Fairis in charge, 
who treated us to an excellent breakfast of tea, fish, and steaks. 
Remained here during the day to recruit the men. 

At this period the rival Companies had large forts here, which 
were well fortified ; but no breach of the peace had occurred 
during the winter between the respective traders. Friendly 
intercourse was out of the question, and a suspicious kind of 
armed neutrality was preserved on each side. 

The country round Cumberland House is low, with a rich soil 
and thinly wooded. Land animals are scarce ; but the lake 
furnishes an abundance of white fish, pike, and sturgeon. A 
few horses are employed about the forts chiefly for domestic 
purposes. The Indians who occasionally visit it, are a friendly 
well-disposed tribe, rather addicted to the use of ardent spirits. 

July 12th. Sent oft" the loaded canoes at one p. m. ; but did 
not start ourselves till five, when we took our leave of Mr. 
Fairis, and shortly afterward encamped on an island not far 
from the fort. 

July 13th. At three a. h. embarked, and entered the Sas- 
kachawaine River, a noble broad stream, with a strong steady 
current, uninterrupted by rapids. According to Canadian com- 
putation we made forty-nine leagues before night set in. I doubt 
the accuracy of this calculation, although we certainly made 
wonderful progress. The country on each side of the river is 
extremely low, and totally devoid of timber, but is dreadfully 
prolific in mosquitoes. Those insects swarmed about us in 
such myriads, that we in vain attempted to effect a landing, and 
to preserve the small quantity of blood still remaining in our 
veins, were constrained to pass the entire night on the water, 
driving quietly and calmly down the current. Numerous par- 
ties, however, of the enemy occasionally swarmed about our 
heads, which we partially protected by constant smoking. 

Early on the morning of the 14th, we entered Lac Vase, and 
made the first traverse in Lac Bourbon with a fair wind, but iu 
the midst of the most dangerous swells. 



276 UNEXPECTED ARRIVAL — LAKE WINEPIC. 

The wind having increased to a heavy gale, we were obliged 
to put ashore at eight o'clock on Martel's island, where we 
were detained until four p. m., when we were enabled to pro- 
ceed. Passed the Grande Traverse of Bourbon Lake in 
moderate weather, and encamped at ten p. m. on a low stony 
island, which we selected in consequence of its being free from 
mosquitoes. Here we found several hundred gulls' eggs, on 
which we made an excellent supper. The weather for the last 
few days was extremely sultry, with thunder and lightning at 
intervals. This night we found it rather cool. 

July 15th. Embarked at three a. m. Hard rain during the 
morning. On quitting Bourbon Lake we entered a long strait 
full of dangerous rapids, which brought us to Lac de Travers, 
about five miles in breadth. On leaving this we entered 
another chain of dangerous rapids, which finally brought us, at 
seven a. m., to the great rapid of Lac Winepic. This exceeded 
by far, in body of water and general magnitude, any rapid I 
had seen to the eastward of the Rocky Mountains. The canoes 
were let down for a distance of three miles with double lines ; 
and in some places, where large rocks projected into the river, 
the lading was taken out, and carried to the other side of the 
point. Reached the foot of the rapid without any accident, at 
a quarter before nine, where we stopped to breakfast. Four 
Canadian free trappers, named Montreuil, Racette, Martin, and 
son, were encamped at this place with their squaws. As it blew 
too hard to attempt entering Lake Winepic, we pitched our 
tents and partook of an excellent breakfast with old Martin, 
consisting of cherry-tree tea, with boiled and fried sturgeon. 
Late in the evening we were agreeably surprised by the arrival 
of a party bound to the interior, consisting of Messrs. John D. 
Campbell, Alexander M'Donell, Samuel Black, and my old 
Columbian companion, M'Kay, with sixteen men, and two 
canoes. They pitched their tents alongside ours ; and as their 
garde-vins were tolerably well stocked, we sat up the entire 
night swallowing the news which they brought from the civil- 
ized world. 

July 16th. Embarked at three a. m., having previously pur- 
chased from Martin six sturgeon for each canoe. The morning 
was calm and cloudy as our little flotilla entered the great 
waters of Lake Winepic. About eight o'clock a smart breeze 
sprung up, which enabled us to hoist sail. At ten it increased 
to a close-reefer, and we scudded along for a couple of hours in 
glorious style ; at times two or three miles from the shore. 
About noon, however, the gale became so violent that we were 
compelled to make the best of our way to a landing-place, where 
we pitched our tents for the day. 



LAKE NAVIGATION AURORA BOREALIS. 277 

July 17th. It blew a perfect hurricane the entire day, which 
prevented us from attempting to embark. 

July 18th. Shortly after midnight the gale moderated, and 
at half past one this morning we set off in calm weather. About 
sunrise a favourable breeze sprang up, which wafted us on till 
twelve, when its increasing violence again obliged us to seek the 
shore, a few miles above La Pointe Maligne ; a long rocky neck 
of land so called, which stretches some distance into the lake, 
and which in stormy weather is difficult to double. Remained 
here until six p. BE., when the gale having moderated, we again 
embarked, and continued on all night, alternately with the sail 
and the paddle. 

July 19th. Light fair breezes wafted us on gently during the 
greater part of that day. They rather impeded than accel- 
erated our progress ; for by the custom of voyaging, the pad- 
dles are laid aside while the sail is hoisted, and the men very 
naturally keep it up while the smallest breath ruffles the water. 
At four passed l'lle de St. Martin ; and at eight, encamped at a 
point called La Tete de Picheu. Weather dark and calm 
during the day. 

July 20th. Embarked at two a. m., with a stiff breeze, which 
brought us past La Tete de Brochet in fine style. The wind 
having increased to a hard gale, we put ashore at half past 
eleven, at the south side of the Traverse des lies d'Ecorce, 
which it would be dangerous to attempt passing in stormy 
weather. About five it moderated, and we continued on with a 
fair wind all the evening. The navigation here being rather 
dangerous, and the weather extremely dark, it was judged pru- 
dent to encamp at ten p. m., in a snug little cove on the northern 
shore, about half way between La Tete de Chien and La 
Detroit du Due. The country all round was in a state of con- 
flagration, the smoke from which was quite suffocating. The 
scene was magnificent, and there was imparted to it a terrible 
degree of interest by the howling of wolves and other beasts of 
prey, which the extending flames forced from their long-fre- 
quented haunts. 

The Aurora Borealis too appeared in all its splendid kaleido- 
scope variety of forms. At times a vertical battalion of strange 
figures seemed to rush in fierce encounter on a horizontal pha- 
lanx ; the whole mass became mingled, and in an instant flew 
off into new and more fantastic shapes. A loud and crackling 
noise occasionally struck on our ears, and it was difficult to 
determine whether it proceeded from the evanescent meteors 
above, or the falling timbers of the burning forest below. 

July 21st. Left our encampment at half past two a. m. ; 
and at five passed tlirough a small strait called Le Detroit du 



278 VOYAGE CONTINUED WINEP1C RIVER. 

Due, where the two shores approach to within a quarter of a 
mile of each other. Beyond this however the lake again widens 
to five leagues. 

At ten a smart breeze sprung up. Met two Indians (Sau- 
teus) in a small canoe close to a rocky point called La Tete de 
Boeuf, from whom we purchased a small quantity of dried meat. 
At noon a hard gale came on, accompanied by thunder, heavy 
rain, and dangerous squalls: we however continued on for some 
time ; but having shipped a good deal of water, we were forced 
to put ashore a few miles below another strait, named Le Detroit 
de la Tete de Boeuf, at which place we stopped for the remain- 
der of the day. 

July 22d. Embarked at four a m., with a steady breeze, 
which continued the greater part of the day. At noon doubled 
La Pointe de Metasse in a hard gale, which nearly filled the 
canoes. Here we breakfasted, and at two p. m. arrived at Fort 
Alexander, situate at the end of Lake Winepic, and at the en- 
trance of Winepic River. Messrs. Heron and Crebassa were 
in charge, with three men and a dozen of women. 

July 23d. Remained at Fort Alexander until three p. m., 
when we bid adieu to our friend Mr. Alexander Stewart, who 
was not to proceed beyond this place. We previously sent off 
the loaded canoes at an early hour in the morning. 

Winepic River is greatly obstructed by rapids ; at numbers of 
which portages must be made, or part of the goods unloaded. 
In the last case they are only called Decharges. It would be 
tiresome and useless to give the various names by which the 
Canadians distinguish those places. We passed six in the after- 
noon, and encamped at dusk at the head of Portage des Chenes. 

July 24th. Set off at daybreak, and encamped at seven p. m., 
after having made five portages during the day. In passing 
through Lac de Bonnet, we met Mr. Hughes, a proprietor, who, 
with six men in a canoe, was proceeding to Forts des Prairies, 
of which department he had charge. Weather extremely 
sultry. 

July 25th. Commenced our morning's work by making seven 
portages, " all in a row," at the upper end of which we stopped 
to breakfast and repair the canoes. Here we were overtaken 
by Mr. Crebassa in a light canoe with twelve men, on his way 
to Fort William, with despatches. Encamped late at the end 
of Portage Brule. 

July 26th. We had much thunder and torrents of rain the 
greater part of last night, by which our goods and covering 
were quite wet. Remained a few hours at the encampment to 
dry our clothes, &c. At eight a. m., Mr. Leith, one of the pro- 
prietors, accompanied by Laeut. Austin of the 37th foot, with 



HIBERNIAN DESCRIPTION. 279 

thirteen of his regiment, and twelve well-armed Iroquois, arrived 
at our encampment. They were on their way to Red River, 
for the purpose of arresting all the delinquents they could catch, 
who had been concerned in the recent outrages. We stopped 
to breakfast with them. While it was preparing, I asked one 
of the soldiers, (an Irishman), how he liked the mode of travel- 
ling in that country ? " By J , sir," he replied, " it's awk- 
ward enough. Here we are cramped up in a bit of a canoe, 
put like chayney gods, with our muskets and knapsacks, striving 
to keep our clothes and 'coutrements clane. We haven't seen a 
sign of Christianity these two or three months ; not a church, 
or chapel, or house, or garden ; nor even a horse, or a cow, or a 
sheep ; nothing during the entire day ; just rocks, rivers, lakes, 
portages, waterfalls, and large forests ; bears roaring a tattoo 
every night, and wolves howling a reve'dle every morning. O ! 
to the devil I bob it ! — Give me India or Spain, with all their 
hard fighting, before such an infernal, outlandish, unchristian 
country." 

Parted from those gentlemen a little after nine o'clock, and 
shortly after overtook the brigade of loaded canoes. Passed 
two lodges of Sauteus, and encamped late a few miles above 
Portage de file. Weather during the day excessively sultry. 

July 27th. Embarked at daybreak. About five a. m. Colo- 
nel Dickson, and a gentleman named Gale, passed us on their 
route to Red River. Their journey also was connected with 
the investigation ordered by the governor general. About an 
hour afterward we met Messrs. Simon M'Gillivray, jun., and 
Roderick M'Leod, with two canoes, bound for Athabasca ; we 
remained to breakfast with them, and stopped a couple of hours. 
A smacking breeze during the greater part of the day gave the 
men considerable relief from paddling. 

Encamped at seven p. h. a few miles below the Portage des 
Rats. 

July 28th. Passed Rat Portage early. A few lodges of 
natives were encamped at it, from whom we could purchase 
nothing. On quitting this portage we entered Lac du Bois, with 
tolerably calm weather. We employed the paddle and sail 
alternately, until one p. si., when we arrived at a long and nar- 
row peninsula, which stretches a considerable distance into the 
lake. A portage was made across this point in a short time, by 
which the tedious and circuitous passage round its extremity 
was avoided. We observed great quantities of wild rice grow- 
ing here, which the Canadians called lafolleavmne. Had a fair 
wind all the afternoon, and encamped at half past seven, within 
three leagues of the Grande Traverse. 



280 FORT LAC LA PLUIE — ENTERTAINMENTS. 

July 29th. Observed some faint appearances of the Aurora 
Borealis during the night. Set off at daybreak, and at ten a. m» 
passed the Grande Traverse with a light breeze. This brought 
us to Lac la Pluie River, at the entrance of which we passed a 
few natives. During the evening passed a Mr. Grant, with a 
few men, who were returning in a canoe to the fort at Lac la 
Pluie, from a provision voyage. Encamped at seven p. m. 

July 30th. Set off at the usual hour. At two p. m. met Mr. 
M'Pherson, with a brigade of eleven loaded canoes, bound for 
Athabasca. Not a voyageur in the whole party, at the period 
we met them, could be accused of sobriety. Encamped at 
dusk. 

July 31st. At nine a. m, arrived at the fort of Lac la Pluie, 
in which we found a number of gentlemen, guides, interpreters, 
and engages ; some outward bound, and others belonging to 
various departments destined for the interior. Among them was 
my old esteemed friend, Mr. La Rocque, whose name frequently 
occurs in the eventful scenes of the Columbia, to which place 
he was now about returning with a reinforcement of forty men, 
principally Iroquois Indians, from Canada. 

We remained seven days at Lac la Pluie, waiting the arrival 
of goods from Fort William, and making the necessary distribu- 
tion of men, &c. for the different trading posts. This place is a 
considerable depot of provisions ; so that during our stay we 
fared sumptuously on cakes, pemmican, tea, coffee, wild fowl, 
fish, and deer, with a moderate modicum of rum and shrub. 
We had two excellent fiddlers ; and as several of the gentle- 
men had wives, we got up three or four balls, in which the exhi- 
larating amusement of the "light fantastic toe" was kept up to a late 
hour in the morning. We walked through no lazy minuets ; we 
had no simpering quadrilles ; no languishing half-dying waltzes ; 
no, — ours was the exercise of health ; the light lively reel, or the 
rattling good old-fashioned country dance, in which the graceful 
though untutored movements of the North-west females would 
have put to the blush many of the more refined votaries of Terp- 
sichore. 

Several lodges of Sotoes, or as the Canadians spell the word, 
Sauteus, were encamped near the fort. They were formerly a 
very powerful tribe ; but the smallpox, war, and rum, have con- 
siderably diminished their numbers. They are greatly addicted 
to the use of ardent spirits, and make a point never to com- 
mence a barter of their furs until a suitable quantity of rum 
be given to them gratuitously. When they recover from the 
intoxication produced by this preliminary debauch, they proceed 
to business. A certain portion of their furs is set apart for a 



INDIAN ENCAMPMENT — SEPARATION. 281 

gun, another for ammunition, a third for blankets, a fourth for 
tomahawks or knives, a fifth for tobacco, a sixth for the wants of 
the wife and children, and then a portion for rum. 

I visited the encampment of this party after they had finished 
their trade. The men were gambling and drinking to excess. 
While joy sparkled in the eyes of some, others, whose losses had 
been great, looked like demons. A dispute arose between two 
fine young men respecting a knife : one gave his antagonist a 
blow across the face, upon which the other darted to his lodge, 
seized his gun, and taking a deadly aim, shot the aggressor 
through the body. He was in the act of drinking rum out of a 
pint measure when he received the fatal bullet. He did not 
start, no feature changed, and he walked on, singing a war-song, 
carrying the rum in his hand, until he raised his foot to pass over 
the threshold of his lodge, when he fell dead at the door. 

A scene of indescribable confusion followed. Each warrior 
ran for his gun, dagger, or tomahawk, while the women and chil- 
dren flew towards the fort for protection. Fearful that an indis- 
criminate massacre would be the consequence, a number of 
gentlemen rushed among them, and with much persuasion, joined 
to some force, succeeded in disarming the more violent, and 
restoring tranquillity. Compensation was ultimately made to 
the relatives of the deceased ; and so terminated this drunken 
homicide. 



CHAPTER XXVII. 



Leave Rainy Lake — Messrs. M'Gillivray and La Rocque — Sketch of Messrs. 
Wentzel and M'Neill — Great falls of the mountain — Description of Fort 
William, its inhabitants, <fcc. 

Thursday, August 7th. At two p. M. took our departure 
from Lac la Pluie for Fort William in two light canoes, contain- 
ing nine voyageurs each. Messrs. Robert Henry and Alexander 
M'Tavish were in one ; and Messrs. Ferdinand Wentzel, Hector 
M'Neill, and myself, were in the other. Mr. La Rocqu > and 
party set off at the same time for the Columbia ; and Messrs. 
Joseph M'Gillivray and William Henry for Athabasca and 
Lesser Slave Lake. 

By the new distribution, I was deprived of the pleasure of my 
friend M'Tavish's company, which I much regretted ; however, 
as we were to proceed together in the same brigade to Canada, 
the separation was infinitely less painful than that which I expe- 

M m 



282 LEAVING OLD FRIENDS FELLOW-TRAVELLERS. 

rienced in parting from my old friends M'Gillivray and La 
Rocque. 

We had spent many happy days together on the banks of the 
distant Columbia. Our studies and amusements were the same. 
We had suffered in common many privations incident to that 
dangerous district ; and whether in a canoe or on horseback, 
over a hit of backgammon or on the midnight watch, there was 
a community of feeling that peculiarly endeared us to each other. 
I was about re-entering the busy scenes of civilized life, while 
they were returning to encounter all the dangers and hardships 
attendant on a trader's occupation ; and the pressure therefore 
of the parting grasp was rendered doubly painful by the reflec- 
tion, that in all human probability we should never meet again. 

Those only who knew them as I did, and were acquainted 
with their many excellent and social qualities, " their scorn for 
wrong, their zeal for truth," can appreciate the justice of this 
poor tribute to the manliness of their character, and the steady 
sincerity of their friendship. 

About an hour after quitting the fort, we made one portage ; 
and shortly after passed a small trading-post of Lord Selkirk's. 

Encamped about six p. m. on an island in tlie lake. 

August 8th. Embarked at half past one a. m. Had a steady 
breeze all the morning. Made several portages. Messrs. H. 
Mackenzie and M'Lean, of the North- West Company, passed 
us on their way to Winepic River, and shortly after we met six 
canoes belonging to the Hudson's-Bay Company, twenty-five 
days from Point Meuron, bound to the interior. Passed several 
Indian encampments, at which we procured a quantity of wild 
rice. This we boiled and took in preference to the sturgeon we 
were furnished with at the fort, and which had now a very 
mauvaise odeur. Encamped alone this evening, in consequence 
of Messrs. Henry and M'Tavish having very good-naturedly gone 
on ahead, and left us to manage matters as well as we could. It 
was not, however, with my friend M'Tavish's consent that we 
were left behind ; for I knew he would have preferred remaining 
with us, had his own wishes been consulted ; but when any of 
the little great men of the North-West obtain a command, they 
imagine they have no legitimate method of showing their tempo- 
rary superiority, but by leaving their subordinate officers as far 
en arritre as possible. 

I derived much pleasure from the conversation of my two new 
compagnans de voyage, Messrs. Wentzel and M'Neill. The former 
had been upwards of sixteen years in the Indian country, princi- 
pally in the department of Athabasca,and had obtained a thorough 
knowledge of the manners, customs, and language of the natives 
of that quarter. He was an active, enterprising trader : but, 



BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCH WARLIKE CHARACTER. 283 

having no family connexions to place his claims in the prominent 
point of view which they ought to occupy, and being moreover 
of an honest unbending disposition, his name was struck out of the 
house-list of favourite clerks intended for proprietors, and he 
had the vexation to see many young men promoted over his 
head, several of whom had never slept a night with a hungry 
stomach, or seen a shot fired in anger. Disgust followed disap- 
pointment, and he was now proceeding to Canada, determined, 
if justice were not rendered him by the directors, to quit the 
service of the Company for ever.* 

M'Neill belonged to a highly respectable family in the north 

of Ireland, and had at an early age entered the regiment 

of foot as an ensign. Owing, however, to a serious quarrel 
with his commanding officer, he was obliged to quit the service ; 
and being too proud to seek any assistance from his relatives, 
whom he had reason to suspect were displeased at his conduct, 
he re-entered the army as a private soldier. He was quickly 
appointed a sergeant, and behaved with distinguished bravery 
throughout the peninsular campaigns, in which he was twice 
wounded. After the battle of the Pyrenees he was promoted 
to the rank of sergeant-major ; and upon the termination of hos- 
tilities in the south of France, his regiment, with others, were 
ordered from Bourdeaux to Canada. His American services 
were of short duration. Peace speedily followed Sir George 
Prevost's disgraceful retreat from Plattsburg, and the battalion 
to which M'Neill belonged was ordered to be disbanded. This 
unwelcome intelligence reached him at a period when he had 
every reason to hope that he would have been speedily restored 
to his former rank. Not wishing to return home, he preferred 
accepting his discharge in Canada, where he was shortly after 
introduced to one of the agents of the North- West Company, 
which then stood in need of a few fighting characters, to make 
a stand against the encroachments of their rivals. 

M'Neill's face was in itself a letter of recommendation. His 
countenance was a ruddy bronze, with a noble nose of the Nassau 
cut, a superb pair of full-blown Cossack whiskers, and an inter- 
esting transverse sabre-w r ound over his right eye. Valour was 
then at a premium, and M'Neill's character, joined to his war- 
like visage, at once secured him a handsome engagement. On 
his arrival in the interior, an opportunity quickly offered for try- 
ing his hand at his old profession. He was despatched with a 
few men to intercept a party of Indians who were loaded with 
furs, in order to prevent them falling into the hands of the Hud- 
son's-Bay Company. He found, however, that he had been 

* This gentleman is the same whose name so frequently occurs in Captain 
Franklin's Journal. 



284 DUELS ROUTE CONTINUED. 

anticipated by a clerk of the latter establishment. Warm words 
took place between them, and a duel was the consequence. 
M'Neill drove a ball through his adversary's hat, and there the 
affair ended. Some time after he was engaged in two broad- 
sword encounters, in which he wounded one of his opponents, 
and disarmed the other. His fame soon became established ; 
and wherever he appeared, opposition vanished. 

A year of inactivity followed his first campaign ; and as no 
fighting reinforcement appeared among the ranks of the enemy, 
he became dissatisfied with his situation. A quarrel occurred 
between him and the proprietors. He alleged that he was 
badly treated, and did not experience the attention to which he 
considered himself justly entitled ; while the latter stated, that 
his unruly conduct was a terrible example of insubordination to 
all the younger clerks in the establishment ; and that in his 
bearing to his superiors, he showed more of the major than of 
the sergeant-major. 

Without stopping to inquire upon whom the greater share of 
blame rested, it is sufficient to say, that the gentlemen of the 
interior were graciously pleased to dispense with his services a 
year before the termination of his engagement, and generously 
allowed him the full amount of his salary for the entire period. 
He was now on his way to Canada, uncertain as to his future 
course of life ; but so strongly imbued with a dislike of the In- 
dian country, that he swore he would rather carry a halberd all 
his life, than roll in a coach and four obtained by cheating the 
poor Indians. 

August 9th. Embarked at half-past three a. m. Made four 
portages during the day, and passed a few Sotoes in canoes. 
Embarked at eight o'clock in Lac d'Eturgeon. The scenery, 
since we left Lac la Pluie, is much more diversified with woods 
and rising grounds, than below that establishment. Weather 
very warm for the last three days. 

August 10th. At eight a. m. made the Portage des Deux 
Rivieres, and at nine, that of Les Morts, at which we break- 
fasted. Arrived at the Portage des Frane^ais at half past one 
p. m. and, owing to its length, and bad pathway, did not finish it 
until half past seven. Encamped at dusk at the entrance of 
Riviere des Francais. Had a great deal of thunder and heavy 
rain during the afternoon. 

August 1 1th. Made the Portage dc la Pente at ten a. m. At 
noon passed the Portage des Barrils, and entered Mille Lac 
with a fair breeze. At five r. m. passed an uninhabited house, 
built last year for a trading-post by order of Lord Selkirk. En- 
camped at eight, in a handsome savanna, close to a river which 
takes its name from the place (La Savanne). 



RENCOUNTER PICTURESQUE SCENERY. 285 

August 12th. Started at daybreak. At ten met an old guide, 
named Joseph Paul, in charge of a brigade of seven loaded 
canoes destined for English River. At eleven, arrived at Sa- 
vanna portage, which we did not finish until three p. m. At five 
passed the Portage de Milieu ; at which we met a single canoe 
heavily laden, destined for the Red River. At dusk we made 
the Portage de la Prairie, and encamped on the shores of 
another Lac Froid ; a small body of clear water, so called 
from its extreme frigidity. 

August 13th. Found the air very chilly during the night, 
which some of our Canadian Savons attributed to the proximity 
of Lac Froid. A heavy dew also fell. Embarked at half past 
four ; and at half past five made the Portage de l'Eau Froide, 
the air round which we found extremely cold. We continued 
down a chain of small rapids, in one of which we w r ere obliged 
to unload. After this we descended a small river, with low 
banks, and a smooth current ; in which, at three p. m., we met 
Messrs. John George M'Tavish and J. Thompson on their way 
to the interior. Encamped at seven at Lac des Chiens, where 
we were joined by a Mr. Connolly, a senior clerk, for many 
years in charge of one of the principal trading-posts in the inte- 
rior. We encamped together ; and he invited us to his tent, 
where we made a sensible impression on the contents of a well- 
stocked garde-vin. This gentleman left Ireland when a boy, 
with his family, who settled in Canada. He had at this period 
been seventeen years in the Company's service, and was to be 
elected a partner the following year. He was un veritable bon 
garcon, and an Emeralder of the first water. 

August 14th. At four a. m. parted from our worthy host of 
the tent, when each pursued his different route. At six, met Mr. 
Duncan M'Dougall proceeding to Winepic River in a loaded 
canoe. We stopped a couple of hours with him, and breakfasted 
together. This gentleman had been one of the directors of the 
late Pacific Fur Company, and had consequently joined the 
North-West. He was one of our party crossing the mountains ; 
but at the English River, he set off in a light canoe with Mr. 
Bethune for Fort William, from which place he was now return- 
ing to his winter-quarters. 

Came to the termination of the lake about eleven o'clock, and 
finished the Portage des Chiens at noon. The country about 
this place is very handsome, and the view from the rising grounds 
about the portage highly picturesque and diversified. At one, 
passed another portage, called Le Petit Chien ; and in the course 
of the evening passed several rapids, at six of which we were 
obliged to unload and let the canoes down with the line. En- 
camped at dusk at the Portage des Cedres. From Lac des 



286 CATARACTS RAPIDS FORT WILLIAM. 

Chiens the country assumes quite a hilly, and in some places a 
mountainous appearance. The timber too, particularly the pine 
and spruce, becomes much larger, and nearly approaches the 
magnitude of the trees on the Columbia. 

August 15th. At five a. m. made the Portage de l'lle ; pre- 
vious to which we were obliged to unload at two rapids. At 
eight made the Portage Ecarte ; and soon after, a loud and 
roaring noise announced our approach to the great falls of 
Portage de la Montague, which we reached a little before ten 
o'clock. 

This stupendous cataract is second only to Niagara. It is one 
hundred and fifty-six feet in height, and upwards of two hun- 
dred in breadth. The river, in its advance to the fall, moves 
slowly and majestically forward until its course is interrupted by 
a huge mass of rough craggy rocks, over whose dark gray front 
it rushes with a tremendous noise resembling distant thunder. 

We stopped to breakfast at the foot of the cataract, the spray 
from which dashed over us. It was a melancholy-looking spot. 
The morning was dark and cloudy, and not a ray of sunshine 
appeared to enliven the dread abyss ; owing to which circum- 
stance, and the banks on each side being high, rocky, and thickly 
wooded, we were deprived of seeing that beautiful phenomenon 
of the prismatic rainbow, so often observed at Niagara and other 
great falls. The scene was one of sombre grandeur ; and, how- 
ever it might have been relished by a philosopher, or an embryo 
Demosthenes, was well calculated to damp the animal spirits of 
the most vivacious disciple of Momus. 

For six leagues below this cataract there is a chain of shallow 
rapids, down which we had to pass the canoes with the cod- 
lines. Encamped late at the foot of the last rapid, without a 
mouthful of any substance for dinner or supper ; indeed we had 
been in a starving state for the last four days, having had only 
a scanty meal per diem. In the course of the day we met a 
brigade of loaded canoes, bound for Forts des Prairies, and 
another for Lac la Pluie. 

August 16th. Embarked at daybreak; and at six passed 
Point Meuron, one of Lord Selkirk's establishments, so called 
from a number of De Meuron's regiment having been employed 
in building it. The situation is handsome ; but the settlement 
consists otf a few straggling huts, miserably provided with the 
common necessaries of life. 

At eight o'clock we arrived at Fort William, as the welcome 
sound of the breakfast-bell was summoning the inmates to their 
morning's repast. We instantly repaired to the Salle a manger, 
and over a bowl of coffee, fresh eggs, excellent hot cakes, and 
prime cold venison, quickly forgot our late privations. 



COMPANY AT FORT WILLIAM. 287 

Fort William is the great emporium for the interior. An ex- 
tensive assortment of merchandise is annually brought hither 
from Montreal, by large canoes, or the Company's vessels on 
the lakes, Which, in return, bring down the produce of the win- 
tering posts to Canada, from whence it is shipped for England. 
A number of the partners and clerks, whose turn of rotation has 
not arrived for going to Montreal, assemble here every summer, 
and deposite the furs which they purchase during the winter, 
when they obtain a fresh supply of trading goods for the ensuing 
season. Those on their way to Canada also remain some time 
previous to their final departure. In addition to these, one or 
two of the principal directors, and several clerks, come up every 
spring from Montreal to make the necessary changes, and uper- 
intcnd the distribution of the merchandise for the wintering 
parties. Fort William may therefore be looked upon as the 
metropolitan post of the interior, and its fashionable season 
generally continues from the latter end of May to the latter end 
of August. During this period, good living and festivity pre- 
dominate ; and the luxuries of the dinner-table compensate in 
some degree for the long fasts and short commons experienced 
by those who are stationed in the remote posts. The voyageurs 
too enjoy their carnival, and between rum and baubles the 
hard-earned wages of years are often dissipated in a few weeks. 

We arrived too late to see Fort W 7 illiam in its prime. A 
great portion of the interior aristocracy had departed for their 
winter destinations ; and most of those outward-bound had set 
off before our arrival. A small portion of respectability, how- 
ever, remained ; and during the two days that we stopped, our 
time was passed agreeably enough. 

The following is a list of the company who assembled at the 
dinner-table : viz. Messrs. John M'Donald (le Borgne*), Hal- 
dane, Ronald Cameron, James Grant (le Borgne), and Doctor 
M'Loughlin. The above comprised all the members of the pro- 
prietory present ; the doctor having two shares in consequence 
of long services, and being resident physician at the fort. 

Among the clerks were, Captain R. M'Kenzie, nearly fifty 
years of age, twenty-five of which he had spent in the Indian 
country ; Mr. Crebassu, also a North-Wester of twenty-five 
years standing, who was now on his way to Canada to abide 
his trial, on certain charges preferred against him by some of 
Lord Selkirk's agents ; Mr. Wentzel, my travelling companion, 
of whom I have already spoken ; Mr. Cummings, thirteen years 
in the Company's service, and presumptive heir to a partnership ; 
Mr. Alexander M'Tavish, from the Columbia, going to Canada 

* So called by the Canadians, owing to the gentleman having lout one eye. 



BUILDINGS AT THE FORT. 

from ill health ; Mr. Hector M'Neill, from Athabasca, quitting 
the country in consequence of having no one to fight with. 
There were also from the establishment in Montreal, Messrs. 
Grant, M'Robb, Cowie, M'Lean, and Robinson ; and at the end 
of the table a long list of worthies, consisting of hieroglyphic 
clerks, interpreters, and guides, who are looked upon as war- 
rant officers, and at head-quarters are permitted to dine with 
the mess. 

The dining-hall is a noble apartment, and sufficiently capa- 
cious to entertain two hundred. A finely executed bust of the 
late Simon M'Tavish is placed in it, with portraits of various 
proprietors. A full-length likeness of Nelson, together with a 
splendid painting of the battle of the Nile, also decorate the 
walls, and were presented by the Hon. William M'Gillivray to 
the Company. At the upper end of the hall there is a very 
large map of the Indian country, drawn with great accuracy by 
Mr. David Thompson, astronomer to the Company, and com- 
prising all their trading-posts, from Hudson's Bay to the Pacific 
Ocean, and from Lake Superior to Athabasca and Great Slave 
Lake. 

This immense territory is very little known, except to those 
connected with the Company ; and if it did not interfere with 
their interests, the publication of Mr. Thompson's map would 
prove a most valuable addition to our geographical knowledge 
of the interior of that great continent. 

The buildings at Fort William consist of a large house, in 
which the dining-hall is situated, and in which the gentleman 
in charge resides ; the council-house ; a range of snug buildings 
for the accommodation of the people from the interior ; a large 
counting-house ; the doctor's residence ; extensive stores for the 
merchandise and furs ; a forge ; various work-shops, with 
apartments for the mechanics, a number of whom are always 
stationed here. There is also a prison for refractory voijageurs. 
The whole is surrounded by wooden fortifications, flanked by 
bastions, and is sufficiently strong to withstand any attack from 
the natives. Outside the fort is a shipyard, in which the Com- 
pany's vessels on the lake are built and repaired. The kitchen- 
garden is well stocked, and there are extensive fields of Indian 
corn and potatoes. There are also several head of cattle, with 
6heep, hogs, poultry, &c, and a few horses for domestic use. 

The country about the fort is low, with a rich moist soil. The 
air is damp, owing to frequent rains, and the constant exhalation 
from Lake Superior. This produces agues ; and numbers of 
the people who have wintered here, have been more or less 
afflicted with that troublesome disorder. 

In addition to the persons whose names I have already men- 



MIXTURE OF NATIONS OBSERVATORY. 289 

tioned, we also found at Fort William, Captain Miles M'Don- 
nell, a gentleman connected with Lord Selkirk's establishment, 
in the custody of a constable named Fitzpatrick, on certain 
charges preferred against him by some members of the North- 
West Company, and for which he was about to be conducted to 
Canada. There was also a Mr. Joillette, a notary from Assump- 
tion, who came up as secretary to the commissioners, Messrs. 
Coltman and Fletcher ; by the latter of whom he was discharged 
from his functions, and was now waiting for a passage to Mont- 
real. Besides the above, there were a subaltern's detachment of 
the 70th foot, and a number of disbanded soldiers, who had 
belonged to De Meuron's regiment, and who were ready and 
willing to cut the throats of all persons opposed to the interest 
of their employers. 

Most part of the voyageurs, soldiers, Indians, half-breeds, &c, 
were encamped outside the fort in tents, leathern lodges, mat- 
covered huts, or wigwams. On inquiry, I ascertained that the 
aggregate number of the persons in and about the establishment 
was composed of natives of the following countries : viz. Eng- 
land, Ireland, Scotland, France, Germany, Italy, Denmark, 
Sweden, Holland, Switzerland, United States of America, the 
Gold Coast of Africa, the Sandwich Islands, Bengal, Canada, 
with various tribes of Indians, and a mixed progeny of Creoles, 
or half-breeds. What a strange medley ! — Here were assem- 
bled, on the shores of this inland sea, Episcopalians, Presbyte- 
rians, Methodists, sun-worshippers, men from all parts of the 
world, and whose creeds were " wide as the poles asunder," 
united in one common object, and bowing down before the 
same idol.* 

An observatory (rather a crazy structure) stands in the court- 
yard of the fort. From it the eye takes in an extensive view 
of flat country, thickly wooded, with the bold shores of Thunder 
Island at a distance, rising abruptly out of Lake Superior ; 
while immediately around the fort the scene was enlivened by 
animating groups of women, soldiers, voyageurs, and Indians, 
dancing, singing, drinking, and gambling ; in their features com- 
prising all the shades of the human species, and in their dress, 
all the varied hues of the rainbow. 

* We had one East-Indian from Bengal, two negroes, and the De Meurons 
were a mixture of nearly every nation in Europe. 



Nn 



290 VOYAGE ON LAKE SUPERIOR. 



CHAPTER XXVIII. 

Enter Lake Superior — St. Mary's Falls — Sketch of Mr. Johnston — Lake 
Huron French River — Lake Nipising — Arrive on the Ottawa — A back- 
woodsman — Chaudiere Falls — Hull — Longue Sault — Mr. Grant — Laugh- 
able mistake — Mr. M'Donald Le Pretre — Mr. M'Gilles — Snyder's Tavern — 
Lake of the two mountains — La Chine — Arrive at Montreal. 

August 18th. Received our sailing orders and provisions for 
our voyage last night ; and at six this morning took our depar- 
ture from Fort William, in company with a brigade of loaded 
canoes. Messrs. Wentzel, M'Neill, and I travelled in the 
same canoe. The day was remarkably warm and calm. Our 
route lay along the northern shore of Lake Superior, and we 
encamped at seven p. m. on a stony beach. The country 
appeared to be generally high and rocky. Some handsome 
open spots were visible at intervals along shore ; and other 
parts were thickly wooded. 

August 19th. This day was also calm, and we continued on 
with the paddle until dusk, when we put ashore in a small bay. 
The general appearance of the land was rocky, diversified, how- 
ever, by several beautiful situations admirably calculated for 
settlements. 

August 20th. Embarked at daybreak. The shores appeared 
higher, and were indented with larger bays than we had yet 
seen. We had several slight showers. About noon it came on 
to blow rather fresh, and at two p. m. we were obliged to put 
ashore from the violence of the gale, which kept us stationary 
the remainder of the day. 

August 21st. Started at three a. m. At six a hard breeze 
sprung up, accompanied by heavy rain ; and as the lowering 
appearance of the clouds portended no favourable change, we 
put ashore at ten o'clock at one of the Company's trading-posts, 
called Le Pic. The house is handsomely situated on the shores 
of a small bay. A proprietor was in charge. He was on the 
beach when we approached in shore ; and on seeing us disem- 
bark, he turned on his heel and retreated into the fort. This 
movement foreboded any thing but a hospitable reception ; and 
we therefore pitched our tent, and prepared for breakfast. As 
Wentzel had formerly known him, he paid him a visit; but 
M'Neill and I preferred remaining in the tent, from which no 
friendly invitation offered to dislodge us. 

Between one and two p. m. the rain ceased, and enabled us 
to quit the dominions of the surly landlord of the Pic. A stiff 



RENCOUNTER GENEROUS ENTERTAINMENT. 291 

breeze wafted us on rapidly the remainder of the day, and we 
encamped late in a small bay. After leaving the Pic the shores 
appeared quite rocky, with little timber, and the interior moun- 
tainous. 

August 22d. Had a strong breeze all day, which at half-past 
four r. m. brought us to the River de la Chienne, close to the 
great bay of Mickipicoten, to cross which in stormy weather is 
rather hazardous. We therefore encamped at the river, where 
we remained all night. During the day we passed several 
islands, which, like the northern shore of the lake, are rocky ; 
they are also thinly wooded, and, as the voyageurs told me, 
possess a very unproductive soil. 

August 23d. Rose at three ; but the threatening aspect of 
the clouds deterred us from embarking until half past four a. m., 
when we commenced crossing the bay, or as the voyageurs called 
it, the Grande Traverse de Mickipicoten. We made use of the 
paddle and the sail by turns, and finished the traverse in five 
hours. At noon arrived at a point called Gargue en trois, from 
which a strong breeze brought us, at half past four, to Montreal 
island, on which we encamped. The northern coast more rocky 
and mountainous than yesterday. 

August 24th. Embarked at four, in calm weather, which 
about seven increased to a breeze, that brought us on rapidly 
till ten, when it obliged us to land at Point Mamas. Here we 
overtook Mr. Fletcher, a barrister and superintendant of police 
at Quebec. This gentleman had been appointed by the gover- 
nor-general joint commissioner with Mr. Coltman, to inquire 
into the causes of the various affrays between the two Compa- 
nies, and was now on his way to Canada with the result of his 
mission. We remained wind-bound at this place until three 
p. m., when the gale moderating, we continued on in company 
with Mr. Fletcher. Encamped at dusk at the opening of the 
bay of Batchivvina, one of the most extensive inlets on the 
northern shores of Lake Superior. Mr. Fletcher invited us to 
his tent, which was plentifully stocked with toutes les bonnes 
choses calculated to render travelling in such a country very 
agreeable ; and as our Fort William supply of luxuries was 
rather in a consumptive state, this gentleman in the kindest man- 
ner helped us most liberally from his store. 

From Point Mamas to this place the shore is rather low, and 
much less rugged than any part we had hitherto seen. 

August 25th. Embarked at daybreak with a fair breeze, and 
made the traverse of the Batchiwina, without using a paddle.* 

* This is a dangerous traverse. The year before, as Mr. Kenneth Macken- 
zie and fourteen men were crossing it in a gale of wind, under heavy sail, their 
canoe upset, and that gentleman and ten of the voyageurs were unfortunately 
drowned. 



292 st. mary's falls — biographical sketch. 

At one p. m. doubled a cape called by the Canadians La Gras 
Cap, at which place the lake suddenly narrows to little better 
than a mile in breadth. The country on both sides is low and 
well wooded. 

At five p. m. arrived at St. Mary's Falls, or, as the Canadians 
name the place, Le Saut de Sainte Marie, at which Lake Su- 
perior terminates, and discharges its waters into Lake Huron. 
The North-West Company had extensive stores at this place, of 
which a Mr. Kennedy had charge. Mr. Fletcher stopped with us 
at the Company's house, where we had an excellent dinner of 
fish, wild-fowl, and deer. 

The southern side of St. Mary's forms part of the territory of 
the United States ; the northern belongs to Great Britain. On 
the American side there are several settlements, in consequence 
of which the North- Westers regard this place as the commence- 
ment of civilization. We crossed over in the evening in com- 
pany with Mr. Fletcher, from the stern of whose canoe a British 
jack was flying. On landing, we were received in the kindest 
manner by Mr. Johnston, the principal inhabitant of the place, 
who politely invited us to his house, where we spent a few hours. 
He returned with us to the Company's establishment, and the 
night was far advanced before we separated. 

August 26th. In consequence of the canoes requiring some 
repairs, we remained at St. Mary's Falls this day, which we 
passed in the most agreeable manner at the residence of Mr. 
Johnston. 

The history of this gentleman is remarkable. He was a mem- 
ber of a highly respectable family in the county Antrim, and in 
early life moved in the most fashionable circles in Ireland. A cir- 
cumstance, however, which blasted his early hopes of happiness, 
induced him to abandon his native country, and about twenty- 
eight years before this period he arrived in America. After 
wandering for some time about the continent, he made his way 
to St. Mary's Falls, where he shortly became a great favourite 
with the Indians, and entered extensively into the fur trade. 
The chief had an only child, a daughter. She was a beautiful 
and interesting girl, and although sought for as a wife by many 
of the youthful warriors, she declined all their offers. Her 
father was old and infirm, and wished her to marry before his 
death ; but still his affection for his daughter was so great, that 
he would not exercise his parental authority in compelling her to 
choose. It soon, however, became apparent that Mr. Johnston 
was the object of her choice. For some time previous, as he 
told me himself, he began to experience the truth of St. Pierre's 
opinion, that " man without woman, and woman without man, 
are imperfect beings in the order of nature." On learning, 



LOYALTY AND MISFORTUNE. 293 

therefore, that he had found favour in the sight of this youth- 
ful Indian, he at once came to the resolution of rendering both 
himself and her perfect. Her father consented, and they were 
married according to the rites and ceremonies of the tribe. 
Death shortly after deprived the old man of his command ; and 
Mr. Johnston, whose wisdom and courage were highly admired 
by the Indians, was unanimously elected his successor. 

Some years after his union with the chief's daughter, an ex- 
tensive property fell to him in the north of Ireland, to which 
place he repaired in order to take possession. While there, 
offers of a tempting nature were made to induce him to reside 
in the country of his nativity, but his fealty to the " Lady of the 
lake" could not be shaken ; and the moment he had finished his 
business, he hastened back to St. Mary's. His family consisted 
of two sons and two daughters, and a Miss Campbell, an interest- 
ing girl, whose father had a few years before been shot in a 
duel by a Mr. Crawford. One son was employed in a public 
department in Canada, and the other was an officer in a local 
corps. The mother received us in a friendly manner at the 
door, but did not join us at the breakfast or dinner-table. 

Mr Johnston has extensive plantations of corn and potatoes, 
&c, with a beautifully arranged and well-stocked fruit and 
flower garden. During the late short war with America, he 
induced one thousand Indian warriors (of whom he took the 
command) to join the British forces, and rendered important ser- 
vices while so employed. 

He suffered severely for his loyalty ; for, during his absence 
with the army, a predatory party of Americans attacked his 
place in the hope of obtaining a large quantity of valuable furs, 
which they were informed he had in his stores, but which a short 
time before his departure he had fortunately removed. Disap- 
pointed in their hopes of plunder, they burned his house, out- 
offices, <fec. ; destroyed the greater part of his valuable stock, 
and carried away every portable article they could find.* At 
the period, therefore, of our visit, the buildings were quite new, 
and were constructed with much taste. The furniture was ele- 
gant, and the library select and excellent. 

Mr. Johnston possessed a highly cultivated mind, much im- 
proved by extensive reading. He had made many excursions 
round the shores of Lake Superior, and along the banks of its 
tributary streams, in which scientific researches imparted a pleas- 
ing variety to the business of an Indian trader. His collections 
of specimens were varied and well selected ; and if the result of 

* I met Mr. Johnston a few years afterward in England, and was happy to 
learn that he succeeded in obtaining from government compensation for the 
losses he sustained on the above occasion. 



294 LAKE HURON. 

his inquiries be published, they will, I have no doubt, prove a 
valuable addition to our geological knowledge of interior America. 

Mr. Johnston was an enthusiastic admirer of Indian manners 
and customs ; and if a word were uttered condemnatory of 
their morals, he poured forth a torrent of eloquent, but vitupe- 
rative satire against the fashionable follies of the civilized world ; 
which, as it was felt he spoke jure uxoris, if it failed to establish 
the superior morality of Indian manners, silenced at least all op- 
position. 

Two retired traders, named Nolin and Ermantinger, also re- 
sided on the same side with Mr. Johnston, a short distance below 
his house. They had Indian wives, and large families, and ap- 
peared to be in comfortable circumstances. 

Mr. Johnston has plenty of cattle, hogs, sheep, domestic fowl, 
&c. ; and has also a very good windmill close to his dwelling- 
house. Fish is found in great abundance, particularly trout. 
They are of enormous size — sixty pounds is not uncommon ; 
and Mr. Johnston assured me he saw one caught in Lake Supe- 
rior which weighed ninety pounds ! 

He treated us to an excellent dinner, fine wine, and a few 
tumblers of Irish mountain dew, which had never seen the face 
of an exciseman. We left Mr. Johnston's at dusk ; but he crossed 
over with us, and we spent together another night of social and 
intellectual enjoyment. 

August 27th. Embarked at 7 a. m., and bade adieu to the worthy 
Hibernian chieftain of St. Mary's. Entered Lake Huron with a 
stiff breeze, which kept up during the greater part of the day, 
with rain at intervals. We were obliged to land at five p. m., 
owing to the increasing violence of the gale. Passed a number 
of islands, for every one of which the Canadians have peculiar 
names. The part of the lake through which we passed this day 
was rather narrow, the shores on each side being visible. 
Country low, and thickly wooded. 

August 28th. Left our encampment at daybreak with a fair 
wind, shortly after which the lake suddenly widens, and we 
quickly lost sight of the southern shore. At noon passed the 
traverse opposite Michillimackana, and at two passed the River 
de Tresallons. Encamped late on an island. Several smart 
showers during the day. Country low and woody. 

August 29th. Set off at five a. m. Passed a number of 
islands during the clay. They were generally rocky, and covered 
with pine, birch, dwarf oak, and immense quantities of the In- 
dian weed called Sacacommis. Encamped at six p. m. on an 
island, in company with a brigade of loaded canoes, under the 
charge of a guide named Guillaume d'Eau. Weather exces- 
sively sultry, with slight rain. 



ISLANDS — FRANCISCAN MISSIONARY. 295 

August 30. Started at four a. m. Passed nearly as many 
islands as yesterday, and much of the same appearance. The 
shore of the mainland still low and rocky, with a few handsome 
spots. Sultry weather and light breezes. Encamped on an 
island at seven p. m. 

August 31st. Embarked at four. Charming weather all day. 
Some of the islands we passed were rather long and fertile. 
The north shore of the lake still low, but during the day we 
observed a few ridges of rather high hills some distance in the 
interior. Encamped at half past five at the entrance of Riviere 
des Franc,ais, at which place we quitted Lake Huron, on our 
way to the Ottawa. The country about the mouth of the river 
is rather low and swampy. 

September 1st. At half past four a. m. commenced ascend- 
ing the Riviere des Franqais ; and at seven passed a rapid called 
La Petite Faucille, at which we were obliged to carry the greater 
part of the lading. At half past three p. m. came to a small cas- 
cade a few feet perpendicular, called the Portage de Recollet, 
previous to which we passed several small rapids. The Cana- 
dians say this portage obtained its present name in consequence 
of a Franciscan friar having made his way to it as a missionary, 
for the purpose of converting the Indians, during the period that 
the French had possession of Canada. He lived to an old age, 
and during his last illness was attended by the natives ; who, 
after his death, deposited his remains in a grave behind his soli- 
tary hut. During the remainder of the day the river was unin- 
terrupted by any rapids ; and we encamped at six p. m., close 
to a few lodges of Indians. Weather very sultry all day. 

September 2d. Embarked at half past three. Passed seve- 
ral small rapids in the morning. At eight made the Portage de 
Parisien, and at eleven passed the three discharges of La Grande 
Faucille, Les Pins, and Portage des Pins, all short. The banks 
of the river thickly wooded, with a rocky soil. At four p. m. 
made the Portage de Chaudiere, at the head of the river, where 
it takes its rise from Lake Nipising. Encamped at five, a short 
distance in the lake. Passed a free trader named La Ronde, on 
his way to Montreal, in a canoe with fourteen packs of beaver, 
and nearly as many children. 

September 3d. Started at two a. m., with calm weather, 
which continued until we got about half way over the Grande 
Traverse, when we were struck by a hard squall, which nearly 
filled our canoes. At ten a. m. arrived at a snug house belong- 
ing to Mr. La Ronde's son, at which we breakfasted. Here we 
left Lake Nipising, and entered a small stream which falls into 
it, and which is called La Petite Riviere. Its banks are low, 
with a rich soil, and well wooded. About two miles up the river 
made rather a long portage called La Vase, above which a dam 



296 MOSQUITOES ROUTE CONTINUED. 

has been constructed, for the purpose of keeping some water in 
the channel, which at this place is little better than a ditch. We 
floated the canoes through this canal about two miles, when we 
were compelled to stop and make another pretty long portage, 
named the Middle Vase, at the end of which we encamped. 

September 4th. Rose at five a. m., after suffering the most 
dreadful torments all night from the combined attacks of the mos- 
quitoes and sand-flies, which insinuated themselves through the 
smallest aperture of the tent, and fastened their infernal fangs 
on every part of our bodies, the neck, cheeks, and forehead in 
particular. At nine a. m. made another portage, called the Last 
Vase. It is a mile and a half in length, full of fine trees, with 
an excellent road, and a rich black soil. From the Middle Vase 
to this there is a narrow communication by water, sufficiently 
large to float a canoe and no more. Remained encamped at the 
end of the portage all day, in consequence of heavy rains, and 
the canoes wanting repairs. 

September 5th. Embarked at half past four a. m., and crossed 
a small lake about four hundred yards wide, at the end of 
which we made the Decharge de Sable. From this we had a 
clear navigation of four leagues, which brought us to the De- 
charge de la Tortue. At half past ten, made a portage called 
Mauvaise de la Musique, the road of which is extremely 
awkward and dangerous. A few years before, a man while 
carrying a canoe fell against a large rock, by which his head 
was completely severed from his body. His grave is in the 
middle of the pathway. At half past twelve, made the por- 
tage des Pins de la Musique ; and at half past four made another 
portage called Les Talons, the road in which is bad and rocky, 
and we were obliged to repair the canoes after crossing it. 
Within a few minutes of six, made the Decharge de la Carpe ; 
and at half past seven, passed another decharge named La Prai- 
rie, at the end of which we encamped. 

The banks of this river are generally high, rocky, and thickly 
wooded with pine, ash, beech, and poplar. The stream itself is 
narrow, and, except where it is interrupted by cascades or rapids, 
the current moves on very sluggishly. The reflection of the 
dark foliage of the trees gives the place a gloomy appearance, 
which is unenlivened by the sight of game, or the warbling of 
a single bird. 

September 6th. Remained until half past six repairing the 
canoes, after which we embarked. At nine arrived at a pretty 
high fall, called the Portage de Paresseux, the view from which 
is highly picturesque. At half past ten, passed a small decharge 
called Les Epingles, and at noon made the D6charge des Gros- 
ses Roches. At two, passed the Decharge du Campion ; at 
three, the Decharge des Roses ; and at seven, the Portage du 



OTTAWA RIVER RAPIDS. 297 

Plein Champ, at the end of which we encamped. The river 
this day appeared a little wider, but the general aspect of the 
country did not differ from that described yesterday. 

September 7th. Embarked at six a. m. ; passed a few rapids, 
and at seven arrived at the termination of the river where 
it falls into the Ottawa, called by the Canadians La Grande 
Riviere. Remained here the rest of the day for the loaded 
canoes behind. A range of high hills are visible on the north 
side of the Ottawa, which extend down to the Labrador coast. 

September 8th. Mr. Fletcher took the sun's altitude at noon, 
and determined this place to be in latitude 4G a 10' N. ; exactly 
the same as the mouth of the Columbia ; and the longitude about 
80° West. Did not embark until four p. m. Passed two rapids, 
in one of which we partly unloaded, and encamped at five to 
wait for the canoes. The banks of the Ottawa, as far as we 
have proceeded, are high, the soil gravelly, and the wood prin- 
cipally pine and birch. Had very fine weather all day. 

September 9th. Set off at half past five a. m. Unloaded 
part of our packages at Les Batteries de Matawan and L'Eveil- 
lee ; and took out all our loading at the Trou and Les Deux 
Rivieres, at the foot of which latter place we encamped. These 
are all large rapids, and the two latter are dangerous. During 
the day we passed some very fine low bottoms, admirably 
adapted for building on, and completely sheltered by the hills in 
their rear. Wood and soil same as yesterday, and the current 
of the river generally rapid. 

September 10th. It rained hard all night. Remained until 
eight a. m., repairing the canoes. At half past ten arrived at 
the great rapid called Le Rocher Capitaine, at which we were 
obliged to unload, and carry the goods by a long portage. En- 
camped at five, at a handsome spot called the Pointe aux Chines, 
from the great quantity of oak-trees growing on it. It is one of 
the prettiest situations I have ever seen for a village. 

September 11th. Embarked at five a. m., in a thick fog. 
At seven arrived at a dangerous rapid called the Joachim, at 
which we were obliged to unload and carry the canoes and 
packs over a very bad portage, which we finished at half past 
eight. About an hour after came to another equally dangerous 
rapid called the Second Joachim, where we also unloaded, and 
finished the portage at a quarter past eleven. Here we break- 
fasted, and stopped to gum and repair the canoes. We walked 
between the two portages, and passed a small inland lake about 
a furlong in breadth. Continued on at one p. m., and had no 
farther obstructions in the river during the day. Encamped at 
seven in a pretty little bay. The banks of the Ottawa this day 
appeared to be well supplied with excellent pine, birch, and 

Oo 



298 PORTAGES DANGEROUS NAVIGATION. 

other trees. The oak had a dwarfish appearance, and very 
little underwood was visible ; a circumstance which must mate- 
rially facilitate the location of new settlers. 

September 12th. Embarked at half past two a. m. At 
seven passed a rapid called the Culbute, at which we partly un- 
loaded. Within a few minutes of nine passed another, called 
Les Allumettes, where also we were obliged to carry part of our 
lading. At two p. m. arrived at a trading-post called Fort Cou- 
longe, in charge of a worthy substantial old soul r called, from 
his age and weight, Alderman Godin. He gave us a repast of 
the best he had, which was no great things ; but as he was 
unable to supply us with any provisions for the use of the men, 
we took our leave of him at sunset, and drove down the current 
all night, which, being free from rapids, exposed us to no great 
danger. The poor voyageurs, who were in a starving condition, 
kept up les chansons a Vaviron until daybreak, to divert their 
hunger. 

September 13th. At six a. m. arrived at the rapid of the 
Grand Calumet, where we had to make a portage of our canoes 
and baggage, which was not completed until a quarter past 
eleven. This portage is very long, but the pathway is excel- 
lent. At twelve passed a rapid called Tergir, at which we 
partly unloaded \ and in less than an hour afterward came to the 
Portage de la Montagne, which we finished at half past one. 
Road excellent. Some time after we shot down a very dan- 
gerous rapid called Du Sable, without unloading. Our canoes 
touched the rocks several times, and sustained considerable 
injury. At half past four made Portage du Fort, rather short ; 
and at six encamped at the entrance of Lac des Chats. We 
walked several miles on each bank during the day, and observed 
the predominant timber to be stately pine and very fine cedar. 

September 14th. The Ottawa here forms a lake, which the 
Canadians, as I have already mentioned, called Lac des Chats, 
but why I could not learn. The shores of the lake are rather 
low, and the trees much smaller than those higher up. We 
embarked at four a. m., and crossed the lake at half past ten ; 
after which we entered a number of dangerous and intricate 
channels formed by several rocky islands, through which we 
had the greatest difficulty in passing, from a combination of 
rocks, snags, &c. On extricating ourselves from this labyrinth, 
we arrived at Portage des Chats, which we passed at noon. 
At the end of this portage we found a Mr. Ilodgeson settled, 
who had formerly been a clerk in the service of the Hudson's- 
Bay Company. The only refreshment he could afford to our 
half-starved men, was a meal of potatoes and butter. Finding 



BRUTAL INH05PITALITT FORCED CONTRIBUTION". 299 

nothing very attractive about this solitary settlement, we lost no 
time in resuming our journey. 

Encountered no other rapids during the day, and at nine p. m. 
arrived at the house of an American backwoodsman, who with 
his family had retired to rest. It was a miserable smoky dwell- 
ing, and it was no easy task to rouse them from a loft in which 
their dormitory was situated. The master of the family at 
length made his appearance, which was highly unprepossessing. 
On his head he wore an old bear-skin cap, and over his shoul- 
ders was thrown a kind of half- worn deer-skin covering. He 
was upwards of six feet in height, with square shoulders, pierc- 
ing gray eyes, large bushy whiskers, a smoke-dried countenance, 
and a beard which for months had not felt a razor. 

The salutation of this uncouth savage gave us no favourable 
idea of his hospitality. On opening the door he roared out in 
a sharp nasal accent, " D — n and b — t ye, what do ye want ? 

Why do ye make sich a d n noise at this hour of the night, 

ye d — d French rascals ?" 

" We are hungry, and want something to eat." 

" I have none to give, — so be off." 

" But we will pay you for it in hard dollars."* 

" B — t me if I care. — I have nothing, — so don't trouble me 
any more." 

The Canadians however having assured us that he was gene- 
rally well supplied with provisions, we told him we should forth- 
with institute a search, and take by force that which he refused 
for money. This threat induced the boor to dislodge from a 
large cupboard some cold meat, dried fish, and Indian corn, 
which with a mess of potatoes served to blunt the keen edge of 
our appetite for the night. 

September 15th. Started at daybreak. At half past seven 
passed a large log-house occupied by several Americans, from 
whom the men obtained corn and fish enough for a meal. At 
half past nine arrived at Portage des Chenes, where we obtained 
an excellent breakfast at two shillings ahead in the house of Mr. 
M'Collum, a native of Prince Edward's Island, from which 
place he had lately removed to the banks of the Ottawa, where 
he set up a small tavern, the first I had seen for six years. 

A short distance below this portage the navigation is inter- 
rupted by the great falls of La Chaudiere, at which the village 
of Hull is situated. We walked thither from M'Collum's. 
This settlement appeared to be in a thriving condition, and, 
under the superintendence of its enterprising proprietor Mr. 

* M'Neill, Wentzel, and I obtained, a couple of days before, sixty dollari 
from Mr. Fletcher, who had gone on ahead for Montreal. 



300 VILLAGE — TIMBER TRADE — CASCADES. 

Wright, bids fair to be a place of considerable importance. 
We observed a few comfortable houses ; and his shop, the only 
one in the village of any respectability, was tastefully orna- 
mented by a handsome steeple. No provisions could be ob- 
tained for love or money, and, with the exception of some bad 
rum, our men could procure no refreshment of any description. 
The crops promised to be very abundant, but a premature frost 
had in a great degree injured them. The potatoes were very 
large, but quite moist, which, some of the inhabitants told me, is 
their general characteristic both on the banks of the St. Law- 
rence and the Ottawa. The soil near the shore is rocky and 
barren, but a short distance in the interior it is rich and highly 
productive. Rafting is the principal business of the settlers ; 
and white oak, red and white pine, the chief timber sent down- 
wards. Notwithstanding the immense distance these rafts have 
to descend, and the number of hands employed in hewing the 
timber, the business is tolerably profitable. 

Twenty-two families of emigrants, chiefly Irish and Scotch, 
had reached Hull a short time previous to our arrival. They 
were stationed in a range of small miserable huts, and appeared 
to be in a state of great destitution. The portion of land which 
each expected had not yet been allotted, and the poor creatures 
complained with apparent justice oft le gross want of attention 
on the part of those whose duty it was to superintend their 
location. A few lodges of Indians were also here. The men 
assisted our voyageurs in carrying the packs across the por- 
tage ; and their squaws, who were poor and dirty, made cer- 
tain advances, which, to judge by their amatory glances, some 
of the Canadians perfectly understood without any lingual ex- 
planation. 

The navigation of the Ottawa, at this place, is obstructed by 
a line of bold, dark-looking rocks, which stretch across the river, 
and over which the descending torrent, after rushing with head- 
long fury, and forming a beautifully extended prismatic curtain, 
falls into a foaming cauldron, the frightful ebullition of which re- 
quires no small degree of nerve to survey with composure. 

We remained this evening at Hull, and but for the hospitable 
attention we received from a Mr. Downes, who was in the em- 
ployment of Mr. Wright, we should not have imagined ourselves 
within the precincts of civilization. 

September 16th. It rained hard during the morning, which 
delayed our departure until nine o'clock. Passed a number of 
poor straggling huts some distance below Hull, inhabited by 
some of the newly-arrived settlers. At eleven p. m. passed the 
River Rideau, which falls into the Ottawa over a high perpen- 
dicular rock, and forms a beautiful and picturesque cascade. 



DANGEROUS RAPID — AGREEABLE MISTAKE. 301 

This river, I understand, runs through a fruitful district, which is 
thickly settled, chiefly by Scotch emigrants. A few miles lower 
down passed another stream called La Riviere Blanche, near 
the mouth of which there is a thriving village. During the day 
we observed several farms thinly scattered along the banks, the 
occupants of which were very reluctant in parting with any of 
their provisions. Had a smooth steady current all day, uninter- 
rupted by rapids. The appearance of the country was low, and 
tolerably well wooded ; but the Canadians say that in high 
water, some of the flat bottoms are inundated. At nine p. m. 
put ashore at a farm-house, where we procured a little addition 
to our scanty supply for supper. As the weather was fine, and 
the navigation free from clanger, we re-embarked at eleven p. m. 
and drove gently down the current all night. 

September 17th. At half past eight a. m. we arrived at the 
great rapid called Le Long Sault, the navigation of which is so 
dangerous, that guides reside at the place for the special purpose 
of conducting the canoes through it. While we were waiting 
for our pilot, we asked one of the habitans where we could obtain 
a good breakfast ? He pointed to a handsome house on an emi- 
nence above the rapid, and merely said " Id /" A few seconds 
brought us to the door, which was opened by a ruddy blue-eyed 
damsel, who conducted us to the parlour. We told her we 
wished to see her master or mistress immediately, upon which 
she curtsied obedience and withdrew. 

From the windows of this apartment we had an extensive and 
picturesque view of hills, forests, corn-fields, farm-houses, and 
gardens ; while close to the foot of the hill the majestic Ottawa 
rolled its turbulent waters over a mass of large detached rocks 
upwards of two miles in extent. The parlour itself was the 
beau ideal of elegance and comfort. The breakfast-table was 
partly laid, and a polished copper tea-kettle simpered most har- 
moniously on a bright brass footman, which was suspended from 
the shining bars of a Rumford grate. 

While we were indulging by anticipation in the pleasures of a 
substantial dejeune, the door opened, and a female en deshabille 
of prepossessing appearance, entered. A large bunch of keys 
in her hand announced her domestic supremacy. She saluted us 
in the most cordial and friendly manner, and begged to know if 
we had come from the interior ? Having replied in the affirm- 
ative, she added — 

" You are Nor- Westers I presume, gentlemen V 

" Yes, Madam," said Wentzel, " and have been travelling all 
night in search of a breakfast, which one of the habitans told us 
we could get here." 



302 UNEXPECTED DISCOVERY. 

" You shall have the best the house affords," was the reply. 

" Hot rolls ?"—" Yes." 

" Fresh eggs ?"— " Most decidedly." 

"A broiled chop?"—" I'll try." 

" And do you hear me, landlady," said M'Neill, as she was 
quitting the room, " This is a sharp morning, — could we get a 
whet out of Boniface's own bottle ?" To this a favourable an- 
swer was also returned, and away she flew to comply with our 
various requisitions. 

In a few minutes Marguerite made her appearance, carrying 
a large tray furnished with the hot rolls, fresh eggs, broiled chop, 
and the whet. She was followed by her mistress, who was ac- 
companied by a middle-aged gentleman in his dressing-gown. 

" You are welcome, gentlemen," said he ; " Ha ! my dear 
Wentzel, is this you ? I'm delighted to see you. How did you 
find me out ?" 

" Find you out," replied Wentzel ; " Why, my dear Grant, can 
this be your house ?" " Certainly," said he ; " and permit me to 
introduce you, gentlemen, to Mrs. Grant.'' 

We all began to stammer out excuses for our apparent rude- 
ness, and explained the trick which the Tony Lumpkin of the 
village had played on us. Mrs. Grant laughed heartily at our 
confusion, and graciously sealed our pardon by pledging us in a 
flowing bowl of refreshing Hyson. 

Mr. Grant had been formerly a member of the North-West 
Company, and while in the Indian country had been associated 
with Wentzel in many hazardous excursions. In short, they were 
old friends, and were naturally overjoyed at their unexpected 
meeting, the pleasure of which was much heightened by the lu- 
dicrous mistake that led to it. At 11 o'clock, we took leave of 
our worthy host and his amiable lady ; and in less than two 
hours arrived at the foot of Le Long Sault, which is one of the 
longest and most dangerous rapids in the interior. Here we 
met another retired partner of the North-West Company, Mr. 
John M'Donald, who insisted on our visiting his house. An ex- 
cellent dinner was quickly prepared, during the demolition of 
which we cracked half a dozen of Mr. Mac's prime Madeira. 
This gentleman was a strict Roman Catholic, and, during his 
residence in the Indian country, was distingushed by the Cana- 
dians from others of the same name by the title of Le Pretre 
(priest), owing to the rigid manner in which he made his men 
adhere to the various fasts of the Catholic church ; a proof of 
orthodoxy with which the great majority of them would have 
gladly dispensed. From this circumstance, joined to his general 
character among the voyageurs, I was led to expect in Mr. 
M'Donald a second St. Francis ; but in lieu of the austere monk, 



KINDNESS AND HOSPITALITY TAVERN. 303 

we saw in the retired trader a cheerful, healthy, and contented 
old man — a proof, if any were wanting, that true piety and 
social gayety are not incompatible. 

At five p. m. we took our leave of the hospitable Pretre, who 
anxiously pressed us to spend the night at his house ; an invita- 
tion which our arrangements precluded us from accepting. 
Passed several handsome farms during the evening ; and after 
night-fall had set in, we arrived at the entrance of Riviere k la 
Graisse, on the banks of which a long straggling village is 
situated. Having seen the men properly accommodated, we 
left them at the mouth of the river, and proceeded towards the 
village, in which, after some inquiry, I found an old Columbian 
friend, named Donald M'Gillis, comfortably settled. He quickly 
collected a few rustic bon vivaris to greet our arrival, and the 
night was far advanced in festive mirth before our good-natured 
host permitted us to throw our jaded bodies on a bed. 

Sept. 18th. We did not rise till ten this morning, at which time 
some of the men insisted on awakening us. They told us that 
two of the loaded canoes, which stopped to repair below the 
Sault the evening before, had not yet arrived. We therefore 
told them to wait a couple of hours longer, at the expiration of 
which, if they did not arrive, we should proceed. Took a late 
breakfast, shortly after which we bade farewell to my friend 
M'Gillis, who accompanied us to the beach. Seeing no appear- 
ance of the two canoes, we ordered our men to make little use 
of the paddles; and as the day was remarkably fine, after 
descending a few miles, Wentzel, M'Neill, and I landed, and 
proceeded seven or eight miles on a good road running parallel 
with the river, until we arrived at an excellent tavern kept by a 
curious and eccentric person named Snyder, a German by birth, 
at which place we determined to pass the night. We therefore 
sent orders to the canoes to encamp before the tavern ; and, 
having inquired what we could obtain for dinner, were presented 
with a bill of fare that would not have derogated from the 
credit of the first inn in England. It was not, however, like 
many of those documents — all show and no substance : the Ger- 
man put nothing on paper that he was not prepared to put on 
the table ; and in less than an hour after our orders were given, 
the dinner was served up in a style of neatness and even ele- 
gance which I have seldom seen surpassed in any house of public 
entertainment. 

After dinner we invited the old man to join us. He was a 
most entertaining companion. Fame had celebrated him as a 
first-rate narrator of anecdotes, and the report we found was 
not exaggerated. His conversation was a complete antidote to 
ennui, and effectually checked any propensities we might have 



304 AMUSING LANDLORD ROUTE CONTINUED. 

had to sleep. The North-Westers, he said, were the founders 
of his fortune : they always stopped at his house in their jour- 
neys to and from the interior, and, no matter how other cus- 
tomers might fare, a North- Wester should always have the best 
bed and bottle in his house. He kept his word, — but we could 
not keep our beds. Five months continued sleeping on the 
hard ground had so vitiated our taste for comfort, that we in 
vain endeavoured to compose ourselves to rest ; and, after suf- 
fering the torments of luxury for a couple of hours, were obliged 
to order the beds to be removed, after which we slept tolerably 
well on the mattrasses. 

September 19th. Partook of an early breakfast with the 
worthy old Rhinelander, immediately after which we embarked. 
Some distance below Snyder's we entered the Lake of the Two 
Mountains, which is formed by the extension of the Ottawa. 
Stopped at a village on the western shore of the lake, from 
which it derives its name. The principal inhabitants of this 
place are Iroquois Indians, a small remnant of that once power- 
ful tribe. They are all Roman Catholics, and have a plain neat 
church. Here I also found another old friend from the Colum- 
bia, Mr. Pillet, with whom we stopped a couple of hours. He 
had a snug farm, a comfortable house, a handsome wife, and 
two pretty children, and altogether appeared to be in happy 
circumstances. 

The two canoes which had been so long in the rear overtook 
us here, and we continued on together the remainder of the day. 
On passing the village of St. Anne's we were hailed by Mr. 
Daniel M'Kenzie, one of the senior proprietors of the North- 
West Company, for whom I had some letters. We therefore 
put ashore, and found with him Messrs. Cameron, and Sayers, 
against whom certain charges had been preferred by some mem- 
bers of the Hudson's-Bay Company, relative to the outrages in 
the interior, the result of which it was deemed prudent they 
should abide at this retired village. Remained a few hours 
with those gentlemen, with whom we took a luncheon ; after 
which we resumed our voyage. 

The country from Riviere a la Graisse to Snyder's, and from 
thence to St. Anne's, is highly cultivated, well stocked with 
farms and thriving villages, and is rich in scenery of the most 
beautiful and romantic description. 

At four p. m. arrived at the termination of the Ottawa, where 
it forms a junction with the Great St. Lawrence, down which 
we continued until six, when we arrived at the village of La 
Chine, at which place canoe-voyaging terminates, with the 
parties homeward-bound, and commences with those destined 
for the interior. 



CANADIAN VOYAOEURS. 305 

After some delay we procured a caliche sufficiently large to 
hold Wentzel, M'Neill, and myself. We next purchased, at a 
neighbouring auberge, a keg of rum, which we presented as a 
valedictory allowance to our vcyageurs, and, having shook each 
man cordially by the hand, drove off amid their benedictions 
for Montreal, in which city we arrived at half past nine p. m., at 
Clamp's Coffee House in Capital-street, after a journey of five 
months and three days from the Pacific Ocean. 



CHAPTER XXIX. 



Sketches of the Canadian Voyageurs — Anecdote of La Liberte — The Free- 
men, or Trappers — The Half-breeds — Anecdote — Retired Partners — Jose- 
phine — Franchise — Amusing Letter — Iroquois Indians — Anecdote. 

There are three descriptions of men in the Company's em- 
ployment, namely, — the white Canadians, the half-breeds, and 
the Iroquois Indians. A few words respecting each class may 
not be uninteresting to the general reader. The first are the 
descendants of the original French settlers. They are gene- 
rally engaged for five years ; and, at the period I speak of, the 
foreman and steersman of each canoe received one thousand 
livres per annum, the middlemen six hundred, with an equip- 
ment, which means a suit of clothes and a large carrot of 
tobacco annually. The number of men in each canoe varies, 
according to its size, from six to ten. The strongest and most 
expert are employed in the bow and stern ; for upon their skil- 
ful management in conducting the vessel through the dangerous 
rapids the safety of the crew chiefly depends. Their rations 
at first view may appear enormous. Each man is allowed eight 
pounds of solid meat per diem, such as buffalo, deer, horse, &c, 
and ten pounds if there be bone in it. In the autumnal months, 
in lieu of meat, each man receives two large geese, or four 
ducks. They are supplied with fish in the same proportion. It 
must, however, be recollected that these rations are unaccompa- 
nied by bread, biscuit, potatoes, or, in fact, by vegetables of any 
description. In some of our journeys up the Columbia they 
were allowed pork and rice ; and on particular occasions, such 
as wet weather, or making a long portage, they received a glass 
of rum. 

At Christmas and New-year they are served out with flour to 
make cakes or puddings, and each man receives half a pint of 



306 CHARACTER OF THE CANADIANS. 

rum. This they call a regale, and they are particularly grateful 
for it. 

With no rent to pay, or provisions to purchase, it may be 
thought these men save the greater part of their wages. Such, 
however, is not the fact. There is not perhaps in the world a 
more thoughtless or improvident race of people than the Cana- 
dian voyageurs. Every article of extra clothing or finery which 
they want must be obtained from the Company's stores ; and as 
there is no second shop at which to apply, prices immeasurably 
beyond the value are charged for the various articles they pur- 
chase. In this manner, between the expenses attending their 
Indian wives and children, the purchasing of horses, gambling, 
&c, the wages of years are dissipated. 

I know of no people capable of enduring so much hard 
labour as the Canadians, or so submissive to superiors. In voy- 
ages of six months' duration, during which 

" Sunday shines, no Sabbath-day to them," 

they commence at daybreak, and from thence to night-fall hard 
paddling and carrying goods occupy their time without inter- 
mission. They are remarkably good-natured and affectionate 
to each other, and it is no uncommon thing to hear one man 
address his comrade as " mon frtre" or " mon cousin" without 
any degree of consanguinity existing between them. The 
enlivening anecdote, or la chanson a Vaviron, by turns softens 
down the severity of their laborious duties, in the midst of which 
they uniformly display the same elasticity of spirits and gaiete 
de cceur by which their vivacious French ancestors were so 
much distinguished. It is laughable to hear the nominal distinc- 
tions they are obliged to adopt in reference to many of the part- 
ners and clerks, who have the same surname. There are Mr. 
Mackenzie, le rouge ; Mr. Mackenzie, le blanc ; Mr. Macken- 
zie, le borgne ; Mr. Mackenzie, le picote ; Mr. M'Donald, le 
grand ; Mr. M'Donald, leprUre ; Mr. M'Donald, le bras croche; 
and so on, according to the colour of the hair, the size, or other 
personal peculiarity of each individual. 

Mr. Shaw, one of the agents,, had passed many years in the 
interior, and was by the voyageurs called Monsieur Le. Chat. 
On quitting the Indian country he married a Canadian lady, by 
whom he had several children. Some years after this event, 
one of his old foremen, named Louis La Libertc, went to Mont- 
real to spend the winter. He had heard of his old bourgeois' 
marriage, and was anxious to see him. Mr. Shaw was walking 
on the Champ de Mars with a couple of officers, when La 
Liberte spied him. He immediately ran up, and seizing him by 



DRESS OF THE CANADIANS. 307 

both hands, began as follows : — " Ah, mm cher Monsieur le Cliat, 
comment votes portez-vous ?" " T?-cs bien, Louison." " Et com- 
ment se parte Madame la Chatte ?" " Bien, bien ; Louison, elle 
est tris bien." — " Et tons les petits Chalons ?" This was too 
much for Mr. Shaw, who answered shortly that kittens and all 
were well, and telling him to call at his house, turned away with 
his military friends, leaving the catechetical Louison quite 
astonished at the abruptness of his departure. 

La Liberie was an extraordinary old man ; he had several 
fine daughters by an Indian wife, and became father-in-law to 
three proprietors. He was therefore proud of his connexions, 
and, feeling indignant at Mr. Shaw's supposed cavalier treat- 
ment, adopted an eccentric method of manifesting his resent- 
ment. He ordered a coat to be made of fine green cloth, with 
silver buttons, a waistcoat of crimson velvet, back and front 
(like the sailor at Portsmouth), with cornelian buttons, braided 
sky-blue pantaloons, Hessian boots with gold tassels and silver 
heels, a hat, feathers, and silk sash ; and thus accoutred, with a 
long calumet in his right hand, and a splendidly ornamented 
smoking-bag in his left, he proceeded to the Champ de Mars, 
during a regimental parade, and observing Mr. Shaw walking 
in company with some ladies and gentlemen, he vociferated, 
" Ha, lia, Monsieur le Chat, vayez ma veste, voila les boutons I 
En avez-cous de mane ? Ha, ha, Monsieur le Chat, regardez 
mes bottes — je suis ferre d 'argent. Je suis le beau-plre de Mon- 
sieur M'DinnUl ; Monsieur Mackenzie est man gendre ; et 

je me sacre de tous les Chats, et de toutes les Chattes /" Some 
of his friends, who previous to his leaving home observed him 
drinking a quantity of rum, followed him to the parade ground, 
and with much difficulty at length succeeded in forcing him away, 
while the poor old man every now and then lifted up a leg, and 
dared any Shaw, or officer on the ground, to show silver heels 
to his boots I 

The dress of a voyageur generally consists of a capot made out 
of a blanket, with leather or cloth trousers, mocassins, a striped 
cotton shirt, and a hat or fur cap. They seldom annoy themselves 
with a waistcoat ; and in the summer season their necks are 
generally exposed. They all wear belts of variegated worsted, 
from which their knives, smoking-bags, &c. are suspended. 
They enjoy good health, and with the exception of occasional 
attacks of rheumatism, are seldom afflicted with disease. The 
principal trading establishments are supplied with well-assorted 
medicine-chests, containing books of directions, lancets, &c. An 
assortment of the more simple medicines is made up for each 
outpost ; and as each clerk must learn how to bleed, we gene- 
rally manage, between low diet, salts, castor oil, opodeldoc, friar's 



308 CANADIAN VOLUNTEERS. 

balsam and phlebotomy, to preserve their health unimpaired, and 
cure any common accident which may befal them. 

The Canadians are not much inclined to Indian warfare. This, 
however, does not proceed from any want of courage ; for in 
the late short war with the United States they conducted them- 
selves with eminent bravery. A local corps, composed of the 
officers and men of the North-West Company, was raised by 
the honourable William M'Gillivray. His son Mr. Joseph 
M'Gillivray, as I have mentioned elsewhere, was an officer in it ; 
and he gave us some laughable details relative to the conduct of 
the privates in the campaign in which he was engaged. When 
on duty in company with the regular forces or the militia they 
were guilty of much insubordination, and it was quite impossi- 
ble to make them amenable to military law. They generally 
came on parade with a pipe in their mouths, and their rations of 
pork and bread stuck on their bayonets. On seeing an officer, 
whether general, colonel, or subaltern, they took off their hats 
and made a low bow, with the common salutation of Bon jour, 
Monsieur le Generel, or le Colonel, as the case might be ; and if 
they happened to know that the officer was married, never failed 
to inquire after the health of Madame et les enfans. On parade 
they talked incessantly, called each other " pork eaters," quar- 
relled about their rations, wished they were back in the Indian 
country again, &c, and when called to order by their officers 
and told to hold their tongues, one or more would reply, " Ah, 
dear captain, let us oft* as quick as you can ; some of us have 
not yet breakfasted, and it's upwards of an hour since 1 had a 
smoke." If the officer was a North-Wester he generally told 
them to have patience, and he would give them their conge tout 
de suit. In moments when danger ought to have produced a 
little steadiness, they completely set discipline at defiance, and 
the volatile volunteer broke out into all the unrestrained mirth and 
anti-military familiarity of the thoughtless voyageur. In vain 
the subaltern winked, in vain the captain threatened, in vain the 
colonel frowned ; neither winks, threats, or frowns could restrain 
the vivacious laugh, silence the noisy tongue, or compose the 
ever-changing features into any thing like military seriousness. 

These repeated infractions of the code militaire subjected 
many of them to temporary confinement ; but as night ap- 
proached, if the sentinel was a voyageur, he told the prisoner to 
" oiler coucher avec safemme, et retourner le lendemain de bonne 
heure." This friendly advice was immediately followed, and 
they had always the honour to return according to promise. 
They could not be got to wear stocks ; and such as did not use 
cravats came on parade with naked necks, and very often with 
rough beards. In this condition they presented a curious con- 



TRAPPERS TIIE HALF-BREEDS. 309 

trast to the unchangeable countenances and well-drilled move- 
ments of the British soldiery, with whom they occasionally did 
duty. Notwithstanding these peculiarities the voyageurs were 
excellent partisans, and, from their superior knowledge of the 
country, were able to render material service during the war. 
They had great confidence in their officers, particularly their 
colonel, Mr. M'Gillivray, whose influence frequently saved them 
from the punishment to which their repeated breaches of disci- 
pline subjected them. 

There are scattered throughout the North- West territories a 
few dozen Canadian trappers called free-men. These indi- 
viduals were formerly engaged as voyageurs in the Company's 
service, and preferred, after the termination of their respective 
engagements, to remain in the Indian country rather than return 
to Canada. They have generally Indian families, and from 
their peculiar occupation lead a wandering life. 

They must bring the produce of their hunts to the Company's 
posts, when they receive payment in goods according to a regu- 
lated tariff, or the value in money is placed to their credit, and 
paid on their arrival in Montreal. From their constant ex- 
posure to the sun, these men are as irretrievably bronzed as the 
native Indians, from whom, owing to their long separation from 
their countrymen, they differ but little either in their habits or 
modes of living. Some of them have large bands of horses ; 
and, I understand, a plurality of wives is not unfrequent among 
them ! 

THE HALF-BREEDS. 

This race is now numerous throughout the Indian country ; 
particularly on the east side of the Rocky Mountains. Owing to 
the recent arrival of white people at the Columbia, they are com- 
paratively few on the western side. The sons of the voyageurs, 
on attaining a proper age, are generally engaged in the Com- 
pany's service. They are called Les Bois Brules — but why, it 
is difficult to ascertain. While they are taught to despise the 
traditions of their mothers' tribe, no one busies himself in unfold- 
ing to them the divine truths of Christianity, and the loose man- 
ners of their fathers are but ill calculated to impress them with 
any great respect for the ties of morality. It is therefore not 
surprising, that when precept is silent, and parental example 
vicious, they should exhibit conduct at variance with the rela- 
tions of civilized life. They are fond of ardent spirits, and are 
much addicted to swearing : while the abominable custom of 
Indian mothers in talking in the most undisguised manner before 
their children of sexual intercourse creates a grossness of ideas 



310 HALF-BREED WOMEN A MARRIAGE. 

with regard to female purity, which may account in a great 
degree for their carelessness on that head. 

They are good canoe-men, and excellent hunters, remarkably 
active either on horseback or on foot ; brave, daring, rather pas- 
sionate, and, while they possess all the vivacity of their father, 
they at times manifest a slight symptom of Indian ferocity ; this 
however is only evinced when any insulting allusion is made to 
their mixed origin. They are open-hearted and generous, prac- 
tise little cunning, detest hypocrisy ; and while they are deter- 
mined not to submit quietly to a wrong, are extremely cautious 
against giving any unnecessary cause of offence. 

The proprietors generally send their sons to Canada or Eng- 
land for education. They have a wonderful aptitude for learn- 
ing, and in a short time attain a facility in writing and speaking 
both French and English that is quite astonishing. Their man- 
ners are naturally and unaffectedly polite s and their conversation 
displays a degree of pure, easy, yet impassioned eloquence, sel- 
dom heard in the most refined societies. 

On finishing their studies those intended for the Company's 
service enter as apprentice-clerks ; and in course of time, 
according to their talents and seniority, become proprietors. 

The half-breed women are excellent wives and mothers, and 
instances of improper conduct are rare among them. They are 
very expert at the needle, and make coats, trousers, vests, 
gowns, shirts, shoes, &c, in a manner that would astonish our 
English fashioners. They are kept in great subjection by their 
respective lords, to whom they are slavishly submissive. They 
are not allowed to sit at the same table, or indeed at any table, 
for they still continue the savage fashion of squatting on the 
ground at their meals, at which their fingers supply the place of 
forks. They wear no caps in the house ; but in travelling, hats 
are used instead of bonnets. With the exception of the head 
their dress resembles that worn by the Bavarian broom-girls, 
who of late years visit our shores. 

A gentleman whose name frequently occurs in these pages, 
but which it is here unnecessary to repeat, had, a few years 
after his arrival in the Indian country, taken a half-breed girl as 
a partner. She was the daughter of a Canadian by a Cree 
mother, and was very young, handsome, and possessed such 
amiable and engaging manners that he determined to bring her 
with him on his first' visit to Canada, and legalize their union by 
the seal of marriage. She had made some progress in reading, 
and had two fine boys, whom he sent to Scotland for their edu- 
cation. In short, no man was more happy than young , 

no woman was judged more perfect than his interesting wife. 
He was obliged one year to conduct a brigade of loaded canoes 



CONJUGAL INFIDBLITY. 311 

from his wintering-post to Fort William, and during his absence, 
which occupied about four months, left his wife behind him. 

He returned sooner than was expected, and, leaving the canoes 
some distance below the fort, arrived there about midnight. 
The dogs knew his signal, and he proceeded without any noise 
or obstruction to his bedroom, in which he found his guilty 
partner in the arms of another. He instantly drew his dagger, 
with which he nearly destroyed the paramour, while she fled to 
one of the married men's apartments, in which she remained 
concealed during the night. Next morning, when his passion had 
cooled, he sent for her, and addressed her feelingly on her base and 
ungrateful conduct. He declared he could not think of living again 
with her ; that he should send her to her father (who was a free 
trapper), and give her all her clothes, trinkets, &c. ; and should 
her future life prove correct, promised that her usual supply of 
clothes and provisions should be regularly furnished her. She 
retired weeping, and deeply affected. Her misconduct preyed 
heavily on her mind ; and in less than four months after joining 
her father, she was numbered with the dead. Her seducer 

quitted the Company's service, and Mr. never after 

took a wife. Instances of this nature are, however, of rare oc- 
currence among the half-breed women ; and taking their num- 
bers and want of education into consideration, perhaps fewer 
cases of infidelity occur among them than among any equal 
portion of females in the civilized world. 

When a young trader becomes united to an Indian or half- 
breed woman he seldom calculates on a family, and foolishly 
imagines he can easily dissolve a connexion which is unsanc- 
tioned by the ceremony of marriage. He is however much de- 
ceived. When the period which he had originally fixed for quitting 
the Indian country arrives, he finds that the woman who had 
been for many years a faithful partner cannot in a moment be 
" whistled off," and " let down the wind to prey at fortune." 
Children have grown up about him ; the natural affection of the 
father despises the laws of civilized society, — the patriot sinks 
in the parent, — each succeeding year weakens the recollection of 
home, and of 

The pleasant fields, travelled so oft 

In life's morning march when his bosom was young ; 

and in most cases the temporary liaison ends in a permanent 
union. Those so circumstanced, on quitting the Company, bring 
their families to Canada, where they purchase estates, on which 
they live in a kind of half Indian half civilized manner, con- 
stantly smoking their calumet, and railing at the fashionable friv- 
olities of the great world. 



312 MATRIMONY. 

When a trader wishes to separate from his Indian wife, he gen- 
erally allows her an annuity, or gets her comfortably married to 
one of the voyageurs, who, for a handsome sum, is happy to 
become the husband of la dame d'un Bourgeois. A retired 
partner, thus disembarrassed, arrives in Canada determined to 
enjoy the pleasures of matrimony with an educated female. His 
arrival is quickly known, — his object buzzed about. The ladies 
of Montreal and Quebec are immediately on the qui vive ; invi- 
tations are numerous, the wealthy North- Wester is universally 
admired ; bronzed features, Oxford-gray hairs, and a degage 
tout ensemble impart peculiar interest to his appearance. When 
he speaks every tongue is silent ; 

Each moving accident by flood and field 

is listened to with breathless attention, and many a fair auditor 
unconsciously wishes that 

Heaven had made her such a man. 

Music follows, then a song ; dancing succeeds ; and he retires 
bewildered in joy, and cursing the fortune that so long debarred 
him from the enjoyment of such happiness. His selection is 
quickly made, and he at length becomes a legal Benedict. 

I believe such unions are generally happy ; but the censorious, 
particularly those who remain faithful to their Indian wives, 
assert that many of their old associates have been sadly duped 
in their matrimonial speculations. 

These envious scandal-mongers allege that the unfortunate 
husband too quickly discovers that a bright eye, a fair face, a 
sweet voice, or a tune on the piano is rather an empty compen- 
sation for the waste of a hard-earned fortune ; while, if he at- 
tempts to remonstrate against his wife's extravagance, his inter- 
esting bronze is compared to copper, the Oxford-gray assumes a 
whiter hue, the air degage degenerates to the air slovenly ; and 
an English tongue, quite at variance with his ideas of conjugal 
submission, reminds him that when all the officers in the garrison 
were dying for her, she was thrown away upon a weather-beaten, 
rheumatic, dog-eating, moss-chewing barbarian, whose habits 
were better adapted to the savage society of Indian squaws, 
than to that of ladies of education. The latter gentlemen, how- 
ever, retaliate on the former by alleging that all their ill-natured 
reports are caused by the refusal of the white ladies to visit or 
associate with those brought down from the interior, whom they 
regard as little better than savages. There may be some truth 
on each side ; but on which it preponderates I am unable to de- 
termine. 



UNEXPECTED BIRTH — A SECOND MARRIAGE. 313 

Very few men wish to have any offspring by their Indian 
wives ; a steril woman is therefore invaluable. They are how- 
ever scarce, and happy is the man who succeeds in obtaining 
one. 

One of the clerks on the Columbia, Mr. J , was particu- 
larly cautioned by his father, who was an old proprietor, against 
taking an Indian wife, lest he should be burdened with children 
during his clerkship. The son promised obedience ; but. being 
stationed at Kamloops, he learned that an Indian recently drowned 
had been married rive years, during which period his wife never 
had a child. This was a prize not to be lost ; and as he knew the 
parental prohibition was more levelled against children than a 
wife, he lost no time in proposing for the young widow. His 
offers were liberal, and were gladly accepted by her relations. 
From a fancied resemblance to a late celebrated empress he 
called her Josephine. The resemblance however was imperfect, 
for nine months had scarcely elapsed when his Josephine 
brought forth a thumping swarthy pet. He w r as in despair — 
immediately dissolved the connexion, gave the boy to one of the 
men's wives to nurse, and sent home the mother with a plentiful 
stock of clothes and presents, which quickly obtained her an- 
other husband. 

Mr. J was transferred that autumn from the Columbia 

to the Athabasca department, to replace a Mr. C who 

was about quitting the country, and leaving behind him a hand- 
some half-breed wife. J succeeded him both in bed and 

board, with what results will appear from the following ex- 
tract of a letter which I subsequently received from him : 

"You are aware of the cause which obliged me to repudiate 
my Columbian wife, Josephine. Another great man repudiated 
his Josephine for the opposite cause ; but, n!importe, I divorced 
myself, and resolved thenceforth never to run the risk of having 
another child in the pays sauvage. On my arrival here, I found 

my friend C on the point of quitting Athabasca, and bidding 

adieu to his wife, la belle Franeaise, one of the finest women in 
the department. Her history is rather hors du co/nmun. Her 
father was a Canadian guide, and at the age of fourteen gave 
her in marriage to an interpreter, with whom she lived three 
years without children, when she became a widow in conse- 
quence of her husband having been killed by some of the Blood 

Indians. Mr. C shortly after became her husband, and 

brought her to Athabasca, where she lived with him eight years 
sans cnfans. 

" She had lived eleven years with two husbands, and her 
character therefore was firmly established. She was besides a 
fine woman, good tempered, and remarkably ingenious. I there- 

Qq 



314 ANOTHER UNEXPECTED BIRTH — INDIAN TRIBES. 

fore determined to secure such a prize, and made my proposals 
in due form. She was her own mistress ; and happy at catch- 
ing such a respectable successor to her late lord, she at once con- 
sented to become mine. 

" Ere a few months passed symptoms of a most suspicious 
nature began to appear ; but I could not imagine my Franchise 
would turn mother ; it might be dropsy — any thing in fact but 
pregnancy — but ' list, oh list.' On the first of April we became 
one (the day was ominous), and on that day nine months precisely 
(it is a melancholy coincidence of dates) she presented me with 
a New-year's gift in the shape of a man-child ! But the cup of 
my misfortunes is not yet full. Owing to some mamillary mal- 
formation, she was unable to supply the brass bantling with milk, 
which obliged me to give it to nurse to one of the men's wives. 
Apprehensive of having another, I resolved on a separation, but 
I knew not how to break my intention to her. The new-born 
delight of a mother seemed to absorb all her faculties. The 
child is continually in her hands, she says he's my picture, and 
to do the little rascal justice, I think there is a likeness ; but 
to my story : — while I was deliberating as to the least painful 
mode of conveying my resolution to her, I received a few days 
since the astounding intelligence of her being encore enceinte ! f 
Murder ! murder ! isn't this too bad 1 Still I can't blame her, 
knowing that 1 am a particeps criminis. But what will the gov- 
ernor say ? Ay, that's the question. In two years two copper 
grand-children ; three I mean, for I understand my Columbian 
pet is thriving apace. Why, the old gentleman will destroy me. 
Was ever a man so tricked 1 There's the fruits of striving to 
cheat Nature ; but I must send him a long, explanatory, apolo- 
getical letter, introduce morality, &c. Franchise may now as 
well remain until I hear from him ; and if he interposes no ob- 
jection, I do not intend to change her. I have called my last 
Hector. Adieu !" 

The third description of men in the Company's service are 
the Iroquois, Nipisings, and others of the native tribes of Ca- 
nada. These Indians have been all nearly reclaimed from their 
original state of barbarism, and now profess the Roman Catholic 
religion. They engage for limited periods in the Company's 
service as canoe-men and hunters, but on lower terms than are 
usually allowed to the French Canadians. They are strong, 
able-bodied men, good hunters, and well acquainted with the 
management of canoes. They are immoderately attached to 
the use of ardent spirits ; are rather quarrelsome, revengeful, 
and sometimes insubordinate ; and during their periods of intoxi- 
cation the utmost prudence and firmness are necessary to check 
their ferocious propensities, and confine them within proper 



EFFECT OF DRUNKENNESS — BLOODY COMBAT. 315 

bounds. They are generally employed on the east side of the 
mountains, but we had a few of them on the Columbia. One, 
named George Teewhattahownie, was a powerful man about 
six feet high. On one occasion, during our voyage to the sea, 
we had u stiff breeze, and George, who was foreman of my 
canoe, kept up a heavy press of sail. I requested him repeat- 
edly to take in a reel', and pointed out the danger to which we 
were exposed in the event of an accident. He appeared to 
pay no attention to my request, and I was at length obliged to 
use peremptory and threatening language, which produced a 
forced and sulky obedience. A few days after our arrival at 
Fort George he came into my room in a state of intoxication, 
and ungovernable rage, with a vessel containing rum in his left 
hand, and in his right his contain <le chasse ; in short, his whole 
appearance was wild and savage, and I at once guessed his visit 
was not of a friendly nature. His opening speech realized my 
suspicions. 

" Cox, you toad, prepare for death ! you abused me, and I 
must have my revenge." 

" You're not sober, George ; go sleep a while, and we'll talk 
on this subject to-morrow." 

" No ; you insulted me before the men, and I must have satis- 
faction ; but as you're a young man, I will now only take one 
of your ears !" 

I became a little easy on finding he had lowered his demands; 
but as I had an equal affection for both lugs, and as "the preju- 
dice ran in favour of two," I had no wish, like Jack Absolute, to 
affect singularity in that respect. After some further parley, and 
finding he was determined to try his knife on my auricular carti- 
lages, 1 told him to retire, or I should be obliged to order him 
into confinement. " Ha ! crapaud !" said he, " do you threaten 
Teewhattahownie ?" and at the same instant rushed on me like a 
grizzly bear. I was now forced to draw my dagger in self- 
defence, and in parrying off his thrust gave him a severe wound 
across the fingers of the right hand. He dropped the knife, but 
instantly seized it with the left hand, and at the same time 
attempted to catch me, which I avoided by running under his 
arm, and as he turned round was compelled to give him a severe 
cut, which nearly laid open one side of his head. He now 
became quite furious, roared like a buffalo, and with the blood 
streaming down his face appeared more like a demon than a 
human being. I thought to fly, but in the attempt he seized the 
skirt of my coat, and 1 was obliged once more to give him 
another wound across the left hand, which obliged him to drop 
the knife ; a desperate struggle then followed for the dagger, 
which, from his great strength, he must have wrested from me, 



316 CONTRITION RETROSPECTION. 

had not the noise occasioned by his bellowing, and my cries for 
assistance, brought Mr. Montour and some of the men into the 
room. With much difficulty they succeeded in binding him 
hand and foot, and lodging him in the guard-room. He tore off 
the dressings that were applied to his wounds, refused every 
assistance, and the greater part of the night was spent in wild 
yells and ferocious threats against me. Nature at last became 
exhausted, and he fell asleep, in which state his wounds were 
dressed. None of them were dangerous. Between the loss of 
blood and a long fast he became quite cool on the following day, 
and when told of what had occurred he could scarcely believe it, 
cursed the rum as the cause, and made a solemn promise never 
again to drink to intoxication. At the end of a couple of days I 
interceded and had him liberated. He appeared most grateful, 
acknowledged that he deserved what he got, expressed his sur- 
prise that 1 did not kill him, and declared if he ever heard a man 
say a bad word of me for wounding him he would knock him 
down. I believe his regret was sincere, and from that period 
until the following year, when I quitted the Columbia, I never 
saw him in a state of inebriety. 



CONCLUSION. 



Coalition of the two Companies — New Caledonia — Description of the Chil- 
cotins, Talkotins, &c— Soil, produce, lakes, rivers, animals, climate — Pecu- 
liarities of the natives — Suicides — Cruelty to relatives — Horrible treatment 
of prisoners — Sanguinary quarrels — Extraordinary ceremonies attending 
the dead — Barbarities practised on widows, &c. — Table of population. 

It will be seen from a perusal of the foregoing pages that 
they contain simply a detail of such events as occurred under 
my own observation, or were contemporaneous with my resi- 
dence in the interior. I thought it better to follow this course, 
than, by the introduction of new matter, to break in on the regu- 
lar chronological order of the narrative. Since I left the Indian 
country I have maintained a correspondence with many of my 
old associates there, particularly Mr. Joseph M'Gillivray, from 
whose friendly communications the information contained in the 
following pages is chiefly extracted. 

It will, I have no doubt, be found highly interesting ; and his 

description of New Caledonia furnishes the only information we 

possess of a portion of the American continent respecting which 

we have been heretofore perfectly ignorant. 

*Afew years subsequent to my quitting the Columbia, the Com- 



UNION OF THE COMPANIES — NEW CALEDONIA. 317 

pany abandoned Fort George (of which I have made such fre- 
quent mention)] and erected another on a larger scale in a beau- 
tiful situational Bellevue Point, on the northern shore, and about 
eighty miles from the entrance of the river. This point was so 
named by Lieutenant Broughton, who had been sent up the Co- 
lumbia by Vancouver, and in honour of the latter the Company 
has called die new establishment " Fort Vancouver." 

The long and violent opposition between the Hudson's-Bay 
and North-West Companies ceased in the year 1821, by their 
coalition. The ruinous rivalship that so long existed between 
them must have ultimately proved destructive to both, had not a 
few sensible men come forward, and by their united exertions 
succeeded in forming a junction. The preliminaries were signed 
in London, in March, lS.il. and confirmed at Fort William by 
the wintering partners in the July following. The particulars of 
the treaty would be uninteresting to the general reader ; and I 
shall here only remark that the old North-Westers are by no 
means pleased with it, and loudly complain of some of its minor 
arrangements, &c. 

NEW CALEDONIA. 

This district extends from 51° 30' north lat. to about 56°. Its 
extreme western boundary is 124° 10'. Its principal trading- 
post is called Alexandria, after the celebrated traveller Sir Alex- 
ander Mackenzie. It is built on the banks of Fraser's River, in 
about lat. 53° N. The country in its immediate vicinity presents 
a beautiful and picturesque appearance. The banks of the river 
are rather low ; but a little distance inland some rising grounds 
are visible, partially diversified by groves of fir and poplar. 

Sir Alexander Mackenzie, in his voyage of discovery across 
the continent in 1793, came to the spot on which the fort is built, 
and was dissuaded by the Indians from following the course of 
the river to its mouth. On quitting this place he proceeded to 
the West Road river, from whence by an over-land journey he 
succeeded in reaching the shores of the Pacific Ocean. 

This country is full of small hikes, rivers, and marshes. It 
extends about ten days' march in a north and north-east direc- 
tion. To the south and south-east the Atnah, or Chin Indian 
country extends about one hundred miles ; on the east there is a 
chain of lakes, and the mountains bordering Thompson's River ; 
while to the westward and north-west lie the lands of the Nasko- 
tins and Clinches. 

The principal rivers are Fraser's, Quesnel's, Rough Poplar, 
Chilcotin, and West Road. Of these Fraser's River only is 



318 SOIL VEGETATION. 

navigable. It receives the waters of Quesnel's and West Poplar 
rivers, which issue from small lakes to the eastward. 

The lakes are numerous, and some of them tolerably large : 
one, two, and even three days are at times required to cross 
some of them. They abound in a plentiful variety of fish, such 
as trout, sucker, &c. ; and the natives assert that white fish is 
sometimes taken. These lakes are generally fed by mountain 
streams, and many of them spread out, and are lost in the sur- 
rounding marshes. 
^ In visiting the Naskotin and Chin Indians, our conveyance is 
by canoes on Fraser's River ; but our journeys to Bear Lake, 
Kloukins, and Chilcotins, must be performed on foot. 

The trading goods are now obtained from the Columbia de- 
partment, to which the returns of furs are forwarded. Horses 
are used for conveying the goods, and the journey generally 
occupies six weeks. The roads are extremely bad, and in every 
direction we encounter numerous rivulets, small lakes, and 
marshes. 

The soil is poor : an indifferent mould, not exceeding eight 
inches in depth, covers a bed of gravel and sand. All the vege- 
tables we planted, notwithstanding the utmost care and precau- 
tion, nearly failed ; and the last crop of potatoes did not yield 
one-fourth of the seed planted. 

On the banks of the river, and in the interior, the trees con- 
sist of poplar, cypress, alder, cedar, birch, and different species 
of fir, spruce, and willow. There is not the same variety of 
wild fruit as on the Columbia ; and this year (1827) the berries 
generally failed. Service-berries, choke-cherries, gooseberries, 
strawberries, and red whortleberries are gathered ; but among 
the Indians the service-berry is the great favourite. There are 
various kinds of roots, which the natives preserve and dry for 
periods of scarcity. There is only one kind which we can eat. 
It is called tza-chin, has a bitter taste, but when eaten with 
salmon imparts an agreeable zest, and effectually destroys the 
disagreeable smell of that fish when smoke-dried. St. John's 
wort is very common, and has been successfully applied as a 
fomentation in topical inflammations. A kind of weed, which 
the natives convert into a species of flax, is in general demand. 
An evergreen similar to that we found at the mouth of the Co- 
lumbia, (and before described), with small berries growing in 
clusters like grapes, also flourishes in this district. Sarsaparilla 
and bear-root are found in abundance. A strong decoction of 
the two latter with the berries last mentioned has been repeat- 
edly tried by our men in venereal cases, and has always proved 
successful. 



MINERALS ANIMALS — CLIMATE. 319 

White earth abounds in the vicinity of the fort ; and one 
description of it, mixed with oil and lime, might be converted 
into excellent soap. Coal in considerable quantities has been 
discovered ; and in many places we observed a species of red 
earth, much resembling lava, and which appeared to be of vol- 
canic origin. 

We also found in different parts of New Caledonia quartz, 
rock crystal, cobalt, talc, iron, marcasites of a gold colour, gra- 
nite, fuller's earth, some beautiful specimens of black marble, 
and limestone in small quantities, which appeared to have been 
forced down the beds of the rivers from the mountains. 

The jumping-deer, or chevreuil, together with the rein and 
red-deer, frequent the vicinity of the mountains in considerable 
numbers, and in the summer season they oftentimes descend to 
the banks of the rivers and the adjacent flat country. 

The marmot and wood-rat also abound : the flesh of the 
former is exquisite, and capital robes are made out of its skin ; 
but the latter is a very destructive animal. 

Their dogs are of diminutive size, and strongly resemble those 
of the Esquimaux, with the curled-up tail, small ears, and pointed 
nose. We purchased numbers of them for the kettle, their flesh 
constituting the chief article of food in our holiday feasts for 
Christmas and New-year. 

The fur-bearing animals consist of beavers ; bears, black, 
brown, and grizzly ; otters, fishers, lynxes, martins ; foxes, red, 
cross, and silver ; minks, musquash, wolverines, and ermines. 
Rabbits also are so numerous that the natives manage to subsist 
on them during the periods that salmon is scarce. 

Under the head of ornithology we have the bustard, or Cana- 
dian outarde (wild goose), swans, ducks of various descriptions, 
hawks, plovers, cranes, white-headed eagles, magpies, crows, 
vultures, wood-thrush, red-breasted thrush, or robin, woodpeck- 
ers, gulls, pelicans, hawks, partridges, pheasants, and snow- 
birds. 

The spring commences in April, when the wild flowers begin 
to bud, and from thence to the latter end of May the weather 
is delightful. In June it rains incessantly, with strong southerly 
and easterly winds. During the months of July and August the 
heat is intolerable ; and in September the fogs are so dense that 
it is quite impossible to distinguish the opposite side of the river 
any morning before ten o'clock. Colds and rheumatisms are 
prevalent among the natives during this period : nor are our 
people exempt from them. In October the falling of the leaves 
and occasional frost announce the beginning of winter. The 
lakes and parts of the river are frozen in November. The snow 
seldom exceeds twenty-four inches in depth. The mercury in 



320 SALMON FISHERY — FISH. 

Fahrenheit's thermometer falls in January to 15° below ; but 
this does not continue many days. In general, I may say, the 
climate is neither unhealthy nor unpleasant ; and if the natives 
used common prudence, they would undoubtedly live to an ad- 
vanced age. 

The salmon fishery commences about the middle of July, and 
ceases in October. This is a busy period for the natives ; for 
upon their industry in saving a sufficiency of salmon for the 
winter depends their chief support. Their method of catching 
the salmon is ingenious, and does not differ much from that prac- 
tised by the upper natives of the Columbia. A certain part of 
the river is enclosed by a number of stakes about twelve feet 
high, and extending about thirty feet from the shore. A netting 
of rods is attached to the stakes to prevent the salmon running 
through. A conical machine, called a vorveau, is next formed : it is 
eighteen feet long, and five feet high, and is made of rods about one 
inch and a quarter asunder, and lashed to hoops with vvhattap.* 
One end is formed like a funnel to admit the fish. Two smaller 
machines of nearly equal length are joined to it. It requires a 
number of hands to attach these vorceaux to the stakes. They 
are raised a little out of the water ; and the salmon in their as- 
cent leap into the boot or broad part, and fall into the enclosed 
space, where they are easily killed with spears. This contrivance 
is admirably calculated to catch fish ; and when salmon is abund- 
ant, the natives take from eight to nine hundred daily. 

The salmon fishery this year (1827) completely failed, which 
obliged us to send to Kamloops, a post belonging to the Colum- 
bia department, for a supply. We got thence two thousand five 
hundred, and subsequently one thousand five hundred from Mr. 
Connolly, which, with some of our old stock and thirty-five kegs 
of potatoes, kept us from starvation. 

Jub, suckers, trout, and white fish are caught in the lakes ; and 
in the month of October, towards the close of the salmon fish- 
ery, we catch trout of the most exquisite flavour. Large-sized 
sturgeon are occasionally taken in the vorveaux, but they are 
not relished by the natives. 

In consequence of several of the Chilcotin tribe having rep- 
resented that beaver was plentiful in their country, some of our 
people visited it, whose statements fully corroborated those of 
the Indians ; and the northern council of Rupert's Land there- 
fore determined about two years ago to establish a trading-post 
in that quarter. A circumstance, however, shortly after occurred 



* A tough fibrous root, used in sowing bark canoes. It is split into various 
lengths, quite flat and flexible, and seldom exceeding one-eighth of an inch in 
breadth. 



INDIAN REVENGE — SAVAGE WAR. 321 

which has hitherto prevented the Company from carrying their 
intention into effect. 

The Talkotins, who inhabit the banks of Fraser's River, in the 
vicinity of Alexandria, were formerly on the most friendly terms 
with the Chilcotins, and when salmon failed among the latter 
they were always permitted to fish in Fraser's River. 

In the winter of 1826, four young men of the Talkotins pro- 
ceeded on a hunting excursion to the Chilcotin lands. A quar- 
rel, the cause of which we could never ascertain, occurred 
between them, and three of the young men were butchered. 
The fourth, who escaped dangerously wounded, arrived at the 
fort on the 19th March, and immediately communicated the dis- 
astrous intelligence to his countrymen. One Chilcotin, who was 
at the fort, would have fallen a victim to their revenge had we 
not interfered, and with much difficulty concealed him until an 
opportunity offered for his escape ; which, notwithstanding the 
vigilance of his enemies, he effected.* A sanguinary war fol- 
lowed, and in some skirmishes the Talkotin chief lost three 
nephews. This determined him to carry hostilities into the ene- 
my's camp ; and having selected a chosen band of warriors, 
twenty-four in number, they departed on the 19th of April, and 
on the 20th of June returned with five prisoners, and the scalps 
of twelve men, women, and children, whom they had surprised 
and killed. 

A large party of Chilcotins, who were quite ignorant of the 
rival chief's successful expedition, appeared on the 21st June 
on the banks of the river opposite the fort. They killed one 
stray Talkotin, but retired without coming to a general engage- 
ment. A few weeks afterward, a party consisting of twenty- 
seven made their appearance, and their chief made an oration, 
which, owing to a strong wind, we could not understand. They 
encountered some of our people who were attending the gar- 
dens on the opposite bank of the river, but did not injure them. 
They also retired without coming to blows. During the sum- 
mer, the Talkotins were constantly kept on the qui rice by vari- 
ous rumours of intended attacks; and at length, on the morning 
of the 24th September, a formidable party of Chilcotins, amount- 
ing to eighty warriors, appeared on the banks of the river. The 
Talkotins were lodged in a log-house, surrounded by rows of 
strong palisades, with numerous loop-holes between. The bat- 
tle commenced a little after daybreak ; but, owing to the man- 
ner in which the latter were protected, their loss was trifling — 
say one man and one old woman killed ; while that of the Chil- 
cotins amounted to six killed and many dangerously wounded. 

* This poor fellow was subsequently murdered by a Talkotin. 

Rr 



322 CHILCOTIN COUNTRY THE CHILCOTINS. 

Still they pressed on, and might have been ultimately successful, 
had we not forwarded to the Talkotins a supply of arms and 
ammunition, which effectually checked their advances on the 
log-house. A woman of the Chilcotin tribe, who happened to 
be at the fort, observing the assistance we had given the enemy, 
stole away unperceived and communicated to her countrymen 
the circumstance ; on learning which, they at once determined 
to retreat. On their departure they denounced vengeance 
against us, and threatened to cut off all white men that might 
thereafter fall in their way. 

No friendly overture has been since made by either tribe ; 
and although we sent word repeatedly to the Chilcotins that we 
should feel happy in bringing about a reconciliation, we have not 
as yet received an answer, and none of them have been seen 
in our neighbourhood since Sept. 1826. Notwithstanding this 
apparent disinclination on their part to renew relations of friend- 
ship, we determined in the autumn of 1827, to establish a trading- 
post in their country ; but were prevented from doing so by the 
total failure of salmon. 

I herewith subjoin a brief sketch of the district. The Chil- 
cotin River takes its rise in a lake of the same name ; its course 
from Alexandria is S. S. E. ; its length, including its meanderings, 
about one hundred and eighty miles ; and its breadth varies from 
forty to sixty yards : it is quite shallow, and full of rapids. The 
lake is about half a mile in breadth, and sixty miles in length, 
and is surrounded by lofty mountains, from which a number of 
small rivulets descend. It contains abundance of sucker, trout, 
and white fish. Salmon however is the favourite fish ; but as it 
does not regularly descend their river, they are often obliged to 
content themselves with the produce of the lake. They are 
poor hunters, otherwise they might chiefly subsist on animal 
food ; for the rein-deer, with the red and moose deer, are found 
in great numbers in the mountains ; and in the autumnal months 
the black-tail and jum ping-deer are plentiful. Beaver must be 
abundant ; for men, women, and children are clad in robes of 
the fur of that animal. 

It is impossible to ascertain with accuracy the number of the 
tribe ; but I conceive the men capable of bearing arms cannot 
be under one hundred and eighty. They are cleanly in their 
persons, and remarkably hospitable. 

The Chilcotins speak the Carrier language, but many of their 
words bear a strong affinity to the Slave Indian dialect. 

They are extremely fond of iron-works, and appear to be 
well acquainted with the use of firearms. We saw one excellent 
gun in their possession, marked " Barret, 1808." The owner 
said he purchased it from Indians who came from the sea-coast. 



INDIAN TRIBES DIRTINESS. 323 

According to their accounts travellers may in six days, from the 
end of Chilcotin Lake, after crossing a range of mountains, 
reach a river in a southerly direction which discharges its waters 
into the ocean, at a place where the Indians carry on a traffic 
with Europeans. From their general behaviour we were led to 
imagine they must have had frequent intercourse with the whites ; 
and a peculiar kind of blanket, resembling a rug, which was in 
common use among them, we supposed had been obtained from 
Russian traders. The journey from Alexandria to the Chilcotin 
lake occupies eighteen days ; and as a proof of the richness of 
the country in fur-bearing animals, I have only to state that the 
small experimental party sent thither in December, 1825, pur- 
chased from the natives between three and four hundred excel- 
lent beaver skins. 

The Indians on the upper part of Fraser's River are divided 
into various tribes, under the following names : viz. : Slower- 
cuss, Dinais, Nascud, Dinnee, and Talkotin. They are evidently 
sprung from one common origin. Their manners and customs 
are the same ; and there is no variation in their language, which 
bears a close affinity to that spoken by the Chepewyans and 
Beaver Indians. 

Several families generally club together and build a house, the 
size of which is proportioned to the number of inhabitants, and 
is partitioned oft" into several divisions. The building has one 
long ridge pole, which in several places is uncovered, for the 
free egress of the smoke. They are supremely dirty and lazy, 
and full of vermin, which they take great pleasure in eating. 
They never bathe or wash their bodies, which, with the interior 
of their dwellings, and the surrounding neighbourhood, present 
a shockingly repulsive appearance of filthy nastiness, which we 
never observed among any other tribe. When reproached with 
their want of cleanliness they replied, that the dirt preserved 
them from the intense cold of winter, and protected them equally 
from the scorching sun of summer ! 

The women are, if possible, worse than the men ; and when 
they wish to appear very fine they saturate their hair with sal- 
mon oil, after which it is powdered over with the down of birds, 
and painted with red ochre mixed with oil. Such another pre- 
paration for the head is certainly not used by any other portion 
of his majesty's copper-coloured subjects. While in this oleagi- 
nous state they are quite unapproachable near a fire ; and even 
the voyageur, whose sense of smelling is not over-refined, can- 
not bring his nasal organ into a warm apartment with one of 
those bedizened beauties. 

It is quite common to see six or eight of the men during the 
Mimmer, while their wives and children are digging roots for 



324 INDOLENCE — GAMBLING — FEASTING. 

their subsistence, stretch their filthy covering on branches, and 
expose their naked bodies to the sun, changing their position as 
it revolves in its course. 

Independently of the starvation to which their incurable 
indolence subjects them, it also entails on them diseases which 
often prove fatal to numbers ; and asthma, with rheumatic and 
pulmonary complaints, are quite common among them. 

They are generally about the middle size, and few of them 
reach to the height of five feet nine inches. Their colour is a 
light copper, with the same long lank hair and black eyes which 
distinguish the other aborigines of America. Their features are 
good, and were it not for the barbarous incrustation which sur- 
rounds them, might be called prepossessing. The women are 
stouter than the men, but inferior to them in beauty. The dress 
of both consists of a robe made of marmot, or rabbit skin, tied 
round the neck and reaching to the knees, with a small slip of 
leather or cloth covering underneath. In the summer months 
the men dispense even with this slight covering, and wander 
about in a complete state of nudity. They are fond of European 
clothing ; and such of them as were enabled to purchase a coat, 
trousers, and shirt, took great pride in appearing in them at the 
fort. 

They are much addicted to gambling, and umpires are chosen 
to see that each party plays fairly ; still their games seldom ter- 
minate without a quarrel. They will gamble their guns, robes, 
and even their shoes. One of them, who had been out three 
months on a hunting excursion, returned with a large lot of 
prime beaver, with which he intended to purchase a gun for 
himself, and other articles for his wife and children. His evil 
genius induced him to play ; and in a short time he lost half his 
stock. He then desisted, and was about retiring to the fort ; 
but in the mean time several of the gamblers collected about 
him, and upbraided him with want of spirit. His resolution was 
overcome, and he recommenced : fortune was still unpropitious, 
and in less than an hour he lost the remainder of his furs. The 
following day he came to us with tears in his eyes, and having 
related his misfortune, and promised never to run so great a 
risk again, we gave him goods on credit to the amount of twenty 
beavers. 

They are fond of feasting, and on particular occasions invite 
their friends from villages thirty or forty miles distant. When 
the entertainment is over, the guest has nothing more to expect ; 
and no matter how long he may remain, there is no renewal of 
hospitality. Gambling is carried on to a dreadful extreme at 
these assemblages. 

Polygamy is practised, but it is not very general, few of them 



SUICIDE STARVATION INHUMANITY. 325 

being able to support more than one wife. There are no mar- 
riage ceremonies. The choice of each party is left unfettered; 
and it frequently happens that if their tempers do not agree, the 
union is dissolved by mutual consent. The women are unfruit- 
ful, which may be attributed to the many laborious avocations 
to which they are condemned, particularly that of digging for 
roots ; and abortions are also frequent among them. 

Prostitution is notoriously practised among unmarried females, 
and is productive of disease to a deplorable extent. Few 
escape the consequences resulting from this general depravity, 
and many fall victims to it. Leprosy is also common among 
the young people of both sexes, and proceeds from the same 
demoralizing cause. Sickness or excessive labour produces a 
depression of spirits among the females, many of whom while in 
that state commit suicide. We saw the bodies of several of 
these wretched beings who had hanged themselves from trees in 
sequestered parts of the wood. 

Their doctor, or man of medicine, differs little from the same 
personage on the Columbia, except that the profession here is 
rather dangerous. 

The same mode of throwing the patient on his back, beating 
the parts affected, singing in a loud voice to drown his cries, 
&c. is practised here ; but in the event of his death, his relatives 
generally sacrifice the quack or some one of his connexions. 
This summary mode of punishment is admirably calculated to 
keep the profession free from intruders ; and their medical 
practitioners, I am happy to state, are becoming every day less 
numerous. 

The affectionate regard for friends and relatives which, more 
or less, characterizes other tribes, appears to be unknown among 
these savages. A few instances, which came under our per- 
sonal knowledge, may be sufficient to prove their total want of 
all the finer feelings of humanity. 

In December, 1826, an elderly man, nearly related to the Tal- 
kotin chief, fell short of provisions, and although he was sur- 
rounded by numbers who had an abundance of dried salmon, he 
was actually allowed to die of starvation in the midst of plenty. 
The day after his death the corpse was burned, and no one 
seemed to mourn his loss. 

One night during the same winter a young woman, nearly 
naked, her body covered with bruises, and dreadfully frost- 
bitten, came to the fort, and begged for admission. This was 
readily granted. She alleged she had been in a starving condi- 
tion, and had asked her husband for a little dried salmon, which 
he refused to give, although he had plenty in his lodge ; that she 
watched an opportunity during his absence to take a small 



326 INHUMANITY INDIAN CHARACTER. 

piece, which he discovered her in the act of eating ; and that 
without any other cause he gave her a dreadful beating, and 
then turned her out, declaring she should no longer live 
with him. She added, that all her friends refused her assist- 
ance, and that she would have inevitably perished from the 
inclemency of the weather but for the protection and relief we 
afforded her. During her narrative her uncle entered, and, on 
learning the particulars, he declared he would make up the 
quarrel ; and went away, promising to return shortly with some 
rabbits. With much difficulty we succeeded in restoring her 
to health ; but neither husband, uncle, nor any other relation 
ever after troubled us with inquiries concerning her, and she 
still remains at the fort living on our bounty. 

Another instance, and I shall have done: — In January, 1827, 
two stout young men, brothers, with their wives and children, 
and a gray-headed, infirm old man, their father, encamped for a 
few days close to the fort. 

Late in the evening of the second day after their departure we 
were surprised at seeing the unfortunate old man crawling 
towards the house, and crying out piteously for " fire and sal- 
mon." His hands and feet were frost-bitten, and he was 
scarcely able to move. A piece of salmon and a glass of rum 
quickly revived him, when he told us that on that morning his 
sons abandoned him at the place they had slept at the night 
before, and, on going away, told him he might take care of him- 
self as well as he could, as they would not any longer be en- 
cumbered with him ! 

These cases establish a degree of barbarism I believe unpar- 
alleled in any country ; and I know of no redeeming feature to 
counterbalance them. We have repeatedly afforded relief to 
numbers who were dying from starvation or disease, and who, 
but for our assistance, would have perished ; yet ingratitude is 
so strongly implanted in their savage nature, that these very in- 
dividuals, in periods of plenty, have been the first to prevent us 
from taking a salmon ; and whenever a dispute or misunder- 
standing arose between our people and the natives, these scoun- 
drels have been seen brandishing their weapons and urging their 
countrymen to exterminate us. 

They are also incorrigible thieves and liars. No chevalier 
dindustrie could excel them in skilful operations ; and it re- 
quired our utmost vigilance to guard against their felonious pro- 
pensities : while their disregard of truth is so glaring, that we 
have actually heard them contradict facts of which we ourselves 
had been eyewitnesses. 

During the severity of winter they make excavations in the 
ground sufficiently capacious to contain a number of persons ; 



i iataoi triumph — war-dance. 3*27 

and in these holes they burrow until the warm weather once more 
permits them to venture above ground. They preserve their 
dry salmon rolled up in baskets of birch bark, in holes of a simi- 
lar description, but somewhat smaller. The smell from these 
subterranean dwellings while thus occupied is horribly offensive, 
and no white man could stand within its influence. Men, 
women, and children, dogs, fleas, &c. all live together in this 
filthy state. 

It has been already mentioned, that in the battle of Septem- 
ber, 1827, they killed some Chilcotins and took others prisoners. 
Their treatment of both dead and living was in perfect accord- 
ance with their general character. After having taken off the 
scalps, they raised the bodies of the deceased on stumps of trees, 
and exhibited them to the Atnahs, a band of whom had been 
specially invited to witness these trophies of their valour. One 
would then plunge his knife into the corpse, a second hack the 
skull with his axe, and a third perforate the body with arrows. 
Women and children equally participated in this savage amuse- 
ment, and all washed their hands and faces in the blood of their 
victims, which they did not remove until it dried and fell off. 

Among the prisoners was one woman with a child at her 
breast. A Talkotin ruffian instantly cut its throat, and, holding 
the infant on the point of his knife, asked the mother, with a 
degree of horrible exultation, if it " smelt good." She re- 
plied, " No." He repeated the question, but still received the 
same answer. Irritated at her obstinacy, he seized her vio- 
lently by the neck, and asked her the third time if it " smelt 
good." The wretched woman, knowing that death awaited her, 
in the event of another refusal, at length faltered out an 
affirmative. " Is it very good V repeated the savage. " Yes," 
she replied, " very good ;" upon which, flinging her from him, 
and dashing the lifeless remains of her infant on the ground, he 
walked away. 

The war-dance next commenced ; and the unfortunate prison- 
ers were introduced into the middle of the circle, and compelled 
to join in the dancing - and singing, while at intervals their inhu- 
man conquerors displayed the scalps of their fathers, brothers, 
or husbands, and rubbing them across their faces, asked with 
ferocious joy if they " smelled good ?" 

We endeavoured to purchase some young children which were 
among the captives, with a view of returning them to their 
friends ; but they refused all our offers. They however pro- 
mised that none of them should be injured ; but their habitual 
perfidy was manifested in this as in all their other transactions ; 
for we learned that on the same night a child was killed and the 
body burned ; a few days afterward another was thrown alive 



328 DOMESTIC QUARRELS — FUNERAL CEREMONIES. 

into a large fire, and consumed ; and in the course of the winter 
our people discovered the remains of three others, with scarcely 
any flesh on their bones ; and we had good reason to believe 
they had been starved to death. 

Inhumanity to prisoners, however, is a vice which these In- 
dians practise in common with all the savage tribes of America ; 
but in their domestic quarrels the Talkotins evince the same 
brutal and sanguinary disposition ; a remarkable instance of 
which occurred in the year 1826. A young man, who had 
killed a rein-deer, determined to give a treat to his friends, and 
having concealed it, as he thought, in a place of security, pro- 
ceeded to the various dwellings for the purpose of inviting them 
to the feast. In the interim, however, some of the tribe dis- 
covered the hidden treasure, the greater part of which they 
made away with. He became highly exasperated at his disap- 
pointment, and in his passion slew one man whom he found 
sitting at a fire broiling part of the animal. The friends of the 
deceased instantly armed themselves, and having surrounded the 
lodge in w r hich the owner of the deer resided, butchered all his 
relations, amounting to seven individuals. He however escaped, 
and being a person of some influence, quickly collected a num- 
ber of his friends, determined on revenge ; but the murderers 
in the mean time fled to the mountains, where they have lurked 
about ever since, occasionally obtaining relief by stealth either 
from our people or from some of their own countrymen. 

Since the battle of September, 1827, the Talkotins have, as a 
measure of security, established their villnge within pistol-shot 
of our fort. They are by no means pleasant neighbours. They 
are in a constant state of apprehension from the Chilcotins, and 
pass the nights up to two or three o'clock each morning singing, 
screaming, and howling in a most disagreeable manner. It is 
almost impossible to sleep. The slightest rustling in the branches, 
or the barking of a dog, turns out the whole population ; and if a 
strange Indian appears, he is immediately magnified into a host 
of warriors, coming to destroy both them and the white men. 

The ceremonies attending the dead are very singular, and 
quite peculiar to this tribe. The body of the deceased is kept 
nine days laid out in his lodge, and on the tenth it is burned. 
For this purpose a rising ground is selected, on which are laid a 
number of sticks, about seven feet long, of cypress neatly split, 
and in the interstices is placed a quantity of gummy wood. 
During these operations invitations are despatched to the natives 
of the neighbouring villages, requesting their attendance at the 
ceremony ; when the preparations are perfected, the corpse is 
placed on the pile, which is immediately ignited, and during the 
process of burning the by-standers appear to be in a high state 



BURNING OP THE DEAD WIDOWHOOD. 329 

of merriment. If a stranger happen to be present they inva- 
riably plunder him ; but if that pleasure be denied them, they 
never separate without quarrelling among themselves. What- 
ever property the deceased possessed is placed about the corpse ; 
and if he happened to be a person of consequence, his friends 
generally purchase a capot, a shirt, a pair of trousers, <fcc, 
which articles are also laid round the pile. If the doctor who 
attended him has escaped uninjured, he is obliged to be present 
at the ceremony, and for the last time tries his skill in restoring 
the defunct to animation. Failing in this, he throws on the body 
a piece of leather, or some other article, as a present, which in 
some measure appeases the resentment of his relations, and pre- 
serves the unfortunate quack from being maltreated. During 
the nine days the corpse is laid out, the widow of the deceased 
is obliged to sleep alongside it from sunset to sunrise ; and from 
this custom there is no relaxation, even during the hottest days 
of summer ! While the doctor is performing his last operation 
she must lie on the pile ; and after the fire is applied to it, she 
cannot stir until the doctor orders her to be removed ; which, 
however, is never done until her body is completely covered 
with blisters. After being placed on her legs, she is obliged to 
pass her hands gently through the flames, and collect some of the 
liquid fat which issues from the corpse, with which she is per- 
mitted to rub her face and body ! When the friends of the 
deceased observe the sinews of the legs and arms beginning to 
contract, they compel the unfortunate widow to go again on the 
pile, and by dint of hard pressing to straighten those members. 

If during her husband's lifetime she had been known to have 
committed any act of infidelity, or omitted administering to him 
savoury food, or neglected his clothing, &c, she is now made to 
suffer severely for such lapse of duty by his relations, who fre- 
quently fling her on the funeral pile, from which she is dragged 
by her friends ; and thus, between alternate scorching and cooling, 
she is dragged backwards and forwards until she falls into a 
state of insensibility. 

After the process of burning the corpse has terminated the 
widow collects the larger bones, which she rolls up in an enve- 
lope of birch bark, and which she is obliged for some years after- 
ward to cany on her back ! She is now considered and treated 
as a slave ; all the laborious duties of cooking, collecting fuel, 
&.c. devolve on her. She must obey the orders of all the wo- 
men, and even of the children belonging to the village, and the 
slightest mistake or disobedience subjects her to the infliction of 
a heavy punishment. The ashes of her husband are carefully 
collected and deposited in a grave, which it is her duty to keep 
free from weeds ; and should any such appear, she is obliged to 

S s 



330 CONCLUSION. 

root them out with her fingers ! During this operation her hus- 
band's relatives stand by and beat her in a cruel manner until 
the task is completed, or she falls a victim to their brutality. 
The wretched widows, to avoid this complicated cruelty, fre- 
quently commit suicide. Should she, however, linger on for 
three or four years, the friends of her husband agree to relieve 
her from her painful mourning. This is a ceremony of much 
consequence, and the preparations for it occupy a considerable 
time, generally from six to eight months. The' hunters proceed 
to the various districts in which deer and beaver abound, and 
after collecting large quantities of meat and fur, return to the vil- 
lage. The skins are immediately bartered for guns, ammunition, 
clothing, trinkets, &c. Invitations are then sent to the inhabit- 
ants of the various friendly villages, and when they have all 
assembled the feast commences, and presents are distributed to 
each visiter. The object of their meeting is then explained, and 
the woman is brought forward, still carrying on her back the 
bones of her late husband, which are now removed, and placed 
in a carved box, which is nailed or otherwise fastened to a post 
twelve feet high. Her conduct as a faithful widow is next highly 
eulogized, and the ceremony of her manumission is completed 
by one man powdering on her head the down of birds, and 
another pouring on it the contents of a bladder of oil ! She is 
then at liberty to marry again, or lead a life of single blessed- 
ness ; but few of them, I believe, wish to encounter the risk 
attending a second widowhood. 

The men are condemned to a similar ordeal ; but they do not 
bear it with equal fortitude ; and numbers fly to distant quarters 
to avoid the brutal treatment which custom has established as a 
kind of religious rite. 

Mr. M'Gillivray here concludes his remarks on the various 
tribes about Fraser's River by a table, which he formed from 
the most authentic sources of information, and which will show 
their relative numbers of married and unmarried men, women, 
&c. 



331 



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APPENDIX. 



Extract of a letter from the Interior, dated July, 1829. 

The intelligence from this country is by no means of a pleasant 
nature. The number of lives lost last winter is incredible, particularly 
in your old department, the Columbia. 

The Company's ship, after a tolerably quick passage from England, 
was lost on the bar, and the entire crew, twenty-six in number, were 
inhumanly butchered by the Clatsops. 

Your friend Ogden, in a hunting excursion, was attacked by a party 
of the Black-feet, who killed four of his men ; and six of the people 
stationed at New Caledonia were murdered by the Carriers during the 
winter. 

Two American parties, under the command of Messrs. Smith and 
Tulloch, were completely cut off; not a soul escaped; and property to 
a considerable amount fell into the hands of the savages. 

These misfortunes have considerably weakened our influence with 
the Indians on the Columbia, whose behaviour, in consequence, has be- 
come very bold and daring, and we greatly fear the ensuing winter 
may be productive of more disasters. 

We shall have much difficulty in filling up the appointments , for that 
district next spring ; in fact, symptoms of rebellion have already begun 
to manifest themselves, and several of our gentlemen have been heard 
to declare, that in the event of their being nominated to the Columbia, 
they will retire from the service sooner than risk their lives among such 
sanguinary barbarians. — God speed them ! I say. Numbers of them 
have been long enough enjoying idleness and luxury on th*> east " ;J ~ 
of the mountains, and it is only fair they should experience tome 
Columbian privations. — I have had my full share of them, 3nd am there- 
fore under no apprehensions of being ordered there in a hurry. 

Extract of another letter. 

In your last you expressed a wish to know the population of the new 
colony at the Red River, and how they are getting on. I been 

there lately, but I enclose you the last census taken at years 

ago, since which period it has scarcely increased. Besid 
boys, and girls, I give you a list of the most useful jiniiv 
session of the settlers, in order that my statistics may be perfect so far 
as regards the animal world. 

189 married men. 
37 unmarried do. 
193 married women and widows. 
96 young women. 
237 girls. 

90 young men. 
210 boys. 

1052 souls. 



334 APPENDIX. 

178 houses 33 barns. 

126 stables 164 horses. 

87 mares 27 bulls. 

295 cows 76 oxen. 

147 calves 20 swine. 

96 carts 31 ploughs. 

39 harrows 13 boats. 

173 canoes. 
There are 672^ acres of land in a state of cultivation ; 144,105 acres 
of prairie, and 21,901 acres of woodland. The total extent of lands 
measured amounts to 170,135 acres 3 roods. 

The population would have been double the above number were it not 
for the falling off of the Swiss and the De Meurons,* most of whom have 
abandoned the colony, and proceeded to St. Louis and the banks of the 
Mississippi, and their places have not been supplied by any fresh arri- 
vals from England. 

Extract of a letter from Churchill, or Prince of Wales' Fort, 1829. 

After spending several years among our new establishments on the 
north-west side of this great continent, behold me now in one of our 
most ancient settlements on the north-east side. Any thing in the 
shape of antiquity is a novelty in the pays sauvage ; and as I know you 
are fond of novelty, I must give you a sketch of this redoubtable for- 
tress. Churchill was erected in 1733, under the superintendence of Mr. 
James Robson, chief architect to the Hudson's-Bay Company. It was 
well fortified with a raveline and four bastions, and the walls measure 
twenty-seven feet in breadth. Forty pieces of cannon were mounted 
on the walls: in fact, the place was deemed impregnable: yet, notwith- 
standing all this apparent strength, it was captured by La Peyrouse, 
without any trouble, and nearly all razed to the ground. Had the Com- 
/ants done their duty at the time, they might have bid defi- 
ance t ) any force ; but de mortuis nil, &c. About the fort are now to be 
K ,. , 3d carriages without guns, rust-eaten guns without carriages, 
groups of unappropriated balls of various caliber, broken down walls, 
and dilapidated stores. The governor's old house is the only place any 
nhabitable; and even it will require immense repairs to make it 
mntable. I assure you I would prefer residing in one of 
square-built little boxes on the Columbia to this melancholy 
leparted greatness. 

wing names are cut out in large characters in the wall in 
'( fort: Richard Norton, 1752; Guilford Long of Rother- 
hithe, 1754; John Newton, 1752. f 

1800 Mr. Atkinson found the following inscription writ- 
of cedar-wood, about a foot square and five feet above the 
ground, on Old Factory Island in James's Bay, about thirty miles to the 
northward of East Main Factory. All the letters were quite visible. 

"In the year 1692 wintered three ships at this island, with one hun- 
dred and twenty-seven men, under the government of Captain James 
Knight. Then we erected this monument in remembrance of it." 

Three different tribes occasionally visit us. They belong to the Crees, 
Chepewyans, and the Esquimaux, and we purchase from them beaver, 

*De Meuron's reniment was disbanded in Canada at tli** !:<"> 'w-ace- and numbers of the men 
proceeded to Lord Selkirk's colony at the Red River. 
t Churchill it in lat. 58° 44' N., and long. 95° 30' W. 



APPENDIX. 335 

otter, marten, red, silver, and white foxes, &c. The Crees who have 
visited us have never exceeded twelve men, young and old. The Chep- 
ewyans vary considerably in their numbers. From twenty to fifty oc- 
casionally come, and the total Dumber who have visited the fort does 
not exceed one hundred. Our Esquimaux customers reside at and 
about Chesterfield Inlet. They do not muster more than one hundred 
and twenty full-grown men, about forty of whom visit us annually. 
They are all quiet, well-behaved people, and tolerably honest. 

About two-thirds of our provisions consists of country produce ; the 
remaining one-third, namely, flour and oatmeal, we procure from Eng- 
land. Among the former we have fresh and salt geese, partridges, veni- 
son, and fish. The geese are principally procured in the spring from 
the Crees and Chepewyans, and numbers are salted by our people. The 
latter tribe chiefly supply us with the venison, which they bring in a half- 
dried state, nearly a distance of seventeen days' march. During the 
summer season we occasionally kill a chance deer. In the winter we 
are well supplied with partridges, the chief part of which our men take 
in nets. 

Our principal fish is the salmon and jack-fish: the former is taken 
during the summer season in nets at a place called Cuckold's Point, 
between two and three miles from the fort; and the jack is taken in 
October and November at Deer's River, distant about twenty-five miles 
from Churchill. Neither however is plentiful. 

It was from this place that Hearne set out on his Arctic Ocean hunt- 
ing expedition ; and as I think he says enough about the climate, soil 
productions, &c, I shall not tire you by alluding to these subjects. Suf 
rice it to say, that Churchill is a rascally, disagreeable, cold, unsocial 
out-of-the-way, melancholy spot, — and I don't care how soon I am 
changed. No hunting, horse-racing, or any other of the sports ^ 
we enjoyed on the Columbia, which I once thought bad enough : 
talking of Indian trading posts, I may truly say, " bad is the b 
So, wishing you all manner of good things, with plenty of white 
and abundance to feed them, I remain ton tendre ami d la mort. 



THE END. 



